Time Dances By - Cameos and Ivory Jewelry

Item:	Description:	Price:
CA073	OPULENT & UNFORGETTABLE ( Edwardian Jewelry Antique Cameo Brooch / Pin ): I was delighted to find this Edwardian Cameo Brooch with its extravagant setting. (c. 1910-1920’s) The hand carved female seems to represent a transitional period between Victorian and Art Deco. (Belle Époque Edwardian period c. 1890-1920’s) This unsuspecting, charming Bacchante - with grapes in her hair - is about to face a great change as the “modern” woman of the 20’s emerges. The oval Cameo itself has been enhanced by the later addition of an elaborate double frame of simulated pearls and coral beads, set in jeweler tested Sterling Silver. I don’t know when this work was done, but it certainly makes this brooch opulent and unforgettable. Someone must have been very fond of this cameo to add such masterful embellishments. This is gorgeous! There is a replacement bar pin back with a safety clasp closure. Condition: Excellent. A few tiny dings to coral beads, not visible except under magnification. Size: Entire brooch is 2 5/8” high, 2 1/4” wide, 3/8” deep. Cameo is 1 3/4” high, 1 3/8” wide.	$650.00
CA081	WINDOW TO THE PAST ( Victorian Jewelry Hardstone Cameo Brooch / Pin ): All jewelry is personal adornment, designed to be worn. Yet the Cameo, perhaps more than any other form of “jewel”, has long been appreciated as a work of art. Cameos, being carvings in relief – in effect miniature sculptures – were the ideal conduits for the revival of classical themes. This supremely feminine Victorian hardstone cameo brooch is, I believe, a custom made piece of jewelry. (c. 1870-90) The setting is highly engraved 14 KT gold, set with 24 small round pearls. The Antique Hardstone Cameo at the center is hand carved from a piece of banded agate. If you look closely at the side view, you can see a thin layer of brown that has been carved away to reach the black base layer. The white agate depicts an elegant classical noblewoman complete with a pendant necklace and earrings. The back of this brooch has a celluloid covered removable compartment used to hold hair of a likeness of the loved one. Marked “K14”, the closure is an enhanced C clasp – a very sturdy, reinforced clasp. A refined and regal Cameo Brooch that combines the artistry of a master carver and a skilled jeweler. What a magnificent gift for a loved one or – better still – treat yourself to this one-of-a-kind treasure! Condition: Excellent. Some abrasions on the celluloid cover on the back. Tiny solder repair not visible from the front. Size: Entire brooch 2 1/4” high, 1 7/8” wide. Cameo 1 1/4” high, 1” wide, 3/8” deep.	$1100.00
CA074	YOUNG GOD OF WINE & GREEK THEATRE ( Victorian Cameo Jewelry Swivel Brooch / Pin ): We all know Dionysus as the hedonistic Greek god of the Vine, Wine and Fertility. In this impressive Victorian Swivel Cameo Brooch he is pictured as a sensual young god with long, flowing hair – wearing a vine-wreath crown. (c. 1870) He holds a thyrus, an ivy entwined staff topped with a pine cone, a fertility symbol. The carved animal pelt over his shoulder appears to be a lion. Often his followers wore masks and, from choragic literary contests known as “Dionysia”, tragedy and comedy evolved. Quite grand in scale, this hand carved shell cameo is bezel set in a swivel mount. The bold, gold plated link setting is engraved with a floral & leaf motif and has a wire twist edging. The swivel turns easily to reveal the original clear cover. The safety clasp closure is a replacement. A wonderful Antique Cameo steeped in meaning and memories of the Victorian era. Condition: Excellent. An old solder repair at bottom of the swivel, but not visible from the front. Some wear to the plating. Size: 2 3/4” high, 2 3/8” wide, 3/8” deep. Cameo is 1 3/4” high, 1 3/8” wide.	$650.00
CA068	ORNATE AND ROMANTIC BACCHANTE ( Victorian Jewelry Shell Cameo Brooch / Pin ): By the second half of the 19th Century the Cameo had become an essential item of female adornment. This lovely Victorian shell cameo (c. 1850-1860) depicts a bacchante, a female follower of the god of wine and fertility, Bacchus. The Victorians were less concerned with mythological accuracy, instead requiring their cameos to follow the aesthetic of Romanticism. Bacchantes remained a favorite subject – but where they had been wild, abandoned followers of Bacchus – now they were softened to resemble docile young maidens with vine leaves and grapes threaded charmingly through their hair. This bacchante adds wheat stalks to her headdress and carries a thyrsus – a staff topped with a pine-cone, both fertility symbols. The 10KT gold ornate setting of this brooch is unusually attractive. The cameo carving is set in a deep bezel with scroll and leaf motifs curling up and over the mount, creating a lush and sumptuous look. The back of the cameo is signed “GL”. A safety catch replaces the earlier C-clasp. Condition: Excellent. Very light wear. Slight brown background fade to the right of forehead is natural. Size: 1 7/8” high, 1 1/2” wide. Setting and cameo together 1/2” deep.	$425.00
CA078	BATTLE READY HORSES ( Victorian Jewelry Cameo Brooch / Pin ): Magnificent grandeur! This unforgettable hand carved Shell Cameo shows a mastery of carving skill. Ares (Mars), the predatory god of War, was ruggedly handsome and violent. He embodied not just the act, but the spirit of War. Ares is usually depicted wearing a helmet with a sword, shield or – in this case – a spear. Homer describes him as “always ready for strife, battle and the bloody grind of war”. Ares rode into battle with his horses – Flame & Terror – pulling his war chariot. The layers of shell color have been carved away, leaving the horse and chariot in extremely high relief. A stunning example of the magic of a cameo. It is my belief that this is a newly carved cameo, newly set in a 14KT wire twist bezel set mount. There is a C clasp closure. New or old, it is an outstanding and dramatic example of hand carved art. Condition: Excellent. A few tiny striations at edges – not visible to the naked eye. Size: 2” high, 2 1/4” wide, 5/8” deep.	$800.00
CA084	ROSY-FINGERED DAWN ( Victorian Jewelry Cameo Brooch / Pin ): The romantic Victorians loved the subjects “Day” and “Night”, based on a pair of bas-reliefs sculpted by Bertel Thorvaldsen in Rome, 1815. This beautifully mounted Victorian hand carved shell cameo depicts the goddess of Dawn, Aurora, accompanied by the Genius of Light holding his torch aloft. (c. 1860-80) Aurora is seen scattering roses as she ushers in the day. Homer described her as “rosy-fingered”. This Antique Cameo is remarkable for its delicacy of execution and poetic feeling. The very ornate setting is made of yellow gilt gold and features leaf and scroll motifs. The C clasp and hinge are early replacements, but the pin stem seems to be the original extended Victorian style pin. A “heavenly” Cameo that reminds us that angels of many sorts greet us night and day. Condition: Excellent. Some signs of wear to the mount commensurate with age. No visible cracks or stress marks. I believe that this setting may have been a bracelet clasp at one time that was redesigned as a brooch. There appears to be a slot for a clasp on the right side of the setting. That would explain the depth of the setting. Size: 2 1/2” high, 2” wide, mounting on sides 1/2”deep. Best worn on a jacket or thick fabric because of the deep mount.	$550.00
CA069	GLITTER & GLAMOUR ( Vintage Art Deco Cameo Brooch / Pin ): This “triplet” Art Deco Cameo Brooch is something you won’t see very often. (c. 1920-35) The shell Cameos are set in black enamel and surrounded with a geometric fire-work display of marcasites. The Art Deco period arrived with a bang and the dainty pale Edwardian styles shifted to bold and sexy. French and German jewelers excelled in designing modern-looking pieces hand set with small, round, faceted “stones” of iron pyrite, known as marcasites. Since their luster is metallic, their brilliance comes from the light reflected off the facets. Each cameo carving is different and the right and left profiles are looking toward the central round domed cameo. Photos cannot capture the glittering brilliance of this brooch. The glittering mood of the 20’s and 30’s marcasites is combined in this piece with a revival in Victorian style cameos brought about by the enormous popularity of period films and their glamorous stars. (Mae West, Greta Garbo, Betty Davis, etc.) The back is marked “ Sterling ” and there is a safety clasp closure. You should see this brooch worn elegantly on black, sexy on red or sophisticated on green or rust. A special Cameo for the woman who confidently makes each piece her own dramatic fashion statement. Condition: Excellent. Size: Brooch measures 2 1/2” wide, 1 5/8” high. Center domed round cameo is 3/4” in diameter.	$300.00
CA071	PSYCHE IN GOLD & DIAMONDS ( Vintage Jewelry Coral Cameo Brooch / Pendant ): I love the contrast of this carved angelskin coral cameo set against the lattice and scrollwork of 18KT gold. (c. 1930-40) The cameo portrays Psyche, the bride of Eros (Cupid). The butterfly wings in her hair are an easy way to identify this mythological lady. Psyche in Greek means both “soul” and “butterfly” – the soul was seen as a butterfly which left the body after death. This miniature coral carving uses the pale pink portion of the coral to accent the waves in her hair and the butterfly wings. Her profile is delicately rendered and she is facing left – a more unusual view. The marked 18KT setting has a concave hammered rim with two curled edges, each set with five tiny diamonds. I discussed this brooch with two cameo dealers and they felt it was a 1930-40’s piece, probably a custom made item, hallmarked with an “L” in a circle. There is a safety clasp pin back and hinged pendant bale. Versatile and elegant, this cameo is outstanding in its fine use of textures and materials. Condition: Excellent. The tip of the bottom wing may have an old chip, but it is not noticeable among the flurry of gold & diamonds. Size: 1 7/8” high, 1 1/2” wide, 5/8” deep.	$500.00
CA051	DIVINE MUSICAL HARMONY: ( Victorian Shell Cameo Brooch / Pin ): A charming and cozy domestic scene is the subject of this beautiful shell cameo brooch, with Aphrodite seated in the background playing a lyre and two winged cherubs accompanying her with flutes. An attentive dog provides an audience. Probably carved in the 1890's, the 14K gold frame features rows of beading alternating with ribbon twists on the wide lip and a twentieth century replacement safety clasp and pin hinge on the back. Rendered with remarkable detail and warmth, it is unusual to find a cameo with three full length figures and an animal together. Condition: Excellent, light wear with no visible cracks or striations. Size: 2" wide, 1 5/8" high.	$250.00
CA111	LOVELY LAVA LADY CAMEO – “ASHES TO ASHES” ( Victorian Jewelry Lava Cameo Brooch / Pin ): Out of ashes steps this lovely, rare full figured lady. (c. 1840) Hand carved, this female image may be Hebe, daughter of Zeus, whose task was to feed and water Zeus when he appeared in his guise as an eagle. Hera also was responsible to provide food and drink for special guests. Here she holds an amphora for water or wine and a tray of pears. She has wonderful movement in her draped dress and a flawlessly delicate face. You can see here entire head – carved with so much dimensionality that all is revealed except for the small attached area in back. Her head is turned as if someone has called for her attention. She wears a diadem crown and tiny slippers. Set in a 14KT Rose Gold mount, the back has a C clasp closure and an extended pin back. A flawless and rare Antique Lava Cameo, she is gray – the color of ashes! Condition: Excellent. Tiny chip in toe of her right slipper. Size: Large. 2" high, 1 5/8" wide, 1/2 deep.	SOLD!
CA114	RARE ST. MICHAEL VANQUISHING SATAN CAMEO ( Victorian Jewelry Shell Cameo Brooch / Pin ): More than Museum quality this large hand carved Antique Shell Cameo Brooch depicts a rare subject, St. Michael, the Archangel, slaying the devil. (c. 1860) This rendering is taken from a painting from 1635 by Guido Reni, a prominent Italian painter of high-Baroque style. This cameo is simply incredible. The scene is alive with exciting details – the huge wings, the upraised sword, the armor with wonderful sleeve detail and the furiously swirling draperies – all speak of the moment to come. Satan has wonderful facial features and his wings appear to be webbed. The flames of hell surround him as St. Michael pulls on the chain about to dispatch him forever. This antique cameo is set in 14KT gold with a C clasp closure and an extended pin stem. St. Michael and St. George are considered to be the patron saints of the Warrior. Police officers and soldiers regard him as their patron. Such an action filled museum quality masterwork! Condition: Excellent. Size: Large. 2 1/4" high, 2” wide, 1/4" deep at the top & bottom.	SOLD!
IV059	FLORA - PROMISE OF RENEWAL ( Victorian Jewelry Ivory Cameo Brooch / Pin ): This breathtaking Victorian hand carved Ivory Cameo of Flora is the perfect way to welcome spring or any other season. (c. 1860-70) The Roman goddess Flora, “mistress of the flowers” symbolizes new life, spring, regeneration and hope. In this large Antique Ivory Cameo portrait a lovely young nymph is adorned with a splendid floral hair piece of forget-me-nots. They swirl through her lavish hair and form a crown fit for a queen. In a typically Victorian fashion revision, her hair forms three twisted locks visible on both sides. A beautiful hand carved twisted rope border compliments her locks of hair perfectly. Notice the double strand of tiny perfect ivory beads. From about 1840 to 1870 high-relief work ivory cameos were very fashionable and often brought home from France as gifts from prosperous travelers. Both the grain and patina of the ivory are so lovely and clearly seen in the beautiful photos. Large thick carvings like this were purchased unset and later set as jewelry or in a box top. The holes on the back were drilled so that the Cameo could be pegged into a setting. This divine Victorian marvel of carving is facing to the left – most Cameos face right. It requires a master carver to work to the left since it is harder to execute. The setting for this Flora brooch is a simple Sterling Silver bezel mount. Both the setting and safety catch closure are of a later period. Quality Ivory pieces have become scarce and will only become more rare as collectors covet these Ivory Cameos. Look at the beauty of her facial features and the depth of the carving. Proclaim your own unique sense of style and wear this exquisite Antique Ivory Cameo with denim or lace. Once viewed – never forgotten! Condition: Excellent. There are a few missing petals on the flowers, but not noticeable with all of the swirls and curls. The price reflects these tiny losses. Size: 2 1/4" high, 1 5/8" wide, 3/4" deep.	SOLD!
IV057	GODDESS DIANA IN ELIZABETHAN DRESS ( Victorian Jewelry Ivory Diana Cameo Pendant ): I was thrilled to discover this rare and superb Victorian hand carved Ivory Portrait Cameo. The goddess Diana (crescent moon in hair) is portrayed in Elizabethan dress, a scarce and unusual view of the goddess of the hunt. Diana was a beautiful wild maiden, a virgin huntress, and was the daughter of Zeus. She was also the protector of children and wild animals. Her association with Selene, the Moon goddess, gave her the mark of the crescent moon. The choice of Elizabethan dress is striking and dramatic and the large lace ruff sets off her face like a picture frame. Her lovely eyes even have visible pupils! Abundant hair curls and waves are rendered with exquisite beauty. The crescent moon sits like a crown on her head and she wears a necklace of tiny ivory carved beads as well as a large brooch at her neckline. In this Victorian interpretation, Diana’s “wildness” has been tamed to suit the romantic Victorian style. The choice of dress is an additional nod to romanticism. I believe that this ivory carving may have been a souvenir of the Victorian passion for travel. She may have been place in a shadow box or box lid. At a much later date, this Antique Cameo was made into a pendant. The claw-set mounting and full back cover are 18KT gold plated. The piece is French, most likely carved in Dieppe, the center of ivory carving. The ivory grain is very beautiful and through the years this Flora has acquired an even warm patina of buttery yellow. Pendants are difficult to find and highly sough after by collectors of both Ivory and Cameos. You may never see a Cameo like this again! Condition: Excellent. One tiny prong on the lower left may have lost its tip. The “line” you see down along her left cheek in some photos is a reflection, not a defect. Two views show her left cheek directly. Size: Large. 2 3/4" high, 2" wide, 3/8" deep.	SOLD!
CA099	LAVISH LAVA LADY ( Victorian Jewelry Lava Cameo Pin / Pendant ): Victorians had a passion for travel and heading the list of tourist sights were the newly uncovered ruins of Pompeii. Tourists, then as now, were of a single mind when it came to taking home souvenirs to remind them of their holiday and lava Cameos from Mount Vesuvius became the mementos of choice. Lavish and intricate in its every detail, this gorgeous hand carved gray Antique Lava Cameo depicts a Bacchante, one of the female followers of Bacchus, the Roman god of wine and fertility. (c. 1840-60) Just look at the incredible depth of the relief and the fine undercarving delineating the leaves and grapes twisted through her hair. I like to think of her proper Victorian owner adorned by what is, after all, an ancient party girl! Of particular interest in this Bacchante Cameo is the richly carved animal pelt draped around her shoulders. You can see the whole cat face including nose, eyes, ears, fur and tiny teeth! Set high in a jeweler tested 14KT gold bezel rim mount, the back has a reinforced C clasp and extended pin stem. There is a pendant hook and drop down oval pendant bale making this a very versatile pin or pendant. These portable lava cameo carvings were frequently brought back from Italy unmounted and then set by the owner. Notice the delicate feminine beauty of her face, her perfect nose and her parted lips revealing dainty teeth. One perfect drop earring adorns her right ear. Lava Cameos have dramatically increased in popularity as buyers rediscover the history of lava carving and the perfection of the classical look. This color gray looks well on so many colors and says to viewers that your style is sophisticated and elite. Condition: Excellent. The top right leaf may have a tiny chip or it may have been carved that way. Of no significance in a lava piece as fine as this. Size: 2” high, 1 5/8” wide, 1/2” deep.	SOLD!
CA060	THE VEIL OF NIGHT ( Victorian Shell Cameo Brooch ): I am delighted to offer you this exquisite Cameo Brooch of the goddess of Night. (c. 1860-70) Beautifully carved, feminine and delicate, this is a theme coveted by Cameo Collectors. Nyx, goddess of Night, was a feared goddess and mother of many powerful forces, including Sleep and Death. Nyx is veiled as the night, eyes closed in slumber and crowned with a wreath of sleep-inducing opium poppies. Nocturnal symbols, the moon and stars float above her head and her owl companion holds branches of poppies in his talons. The veil is especially stunning in its execution. Veil carving was often used as a test of a master carver’s work. The Cameo is bezel set with a ribbon twist surround. Over that are decorative foliate motifs at the four compass points. The setting appears to be gilt over silver. The bottom of the frame has 2 extended wire twist embellishments. I believe that the top of this setting may also have had those same twists, but personally I like the look of the asymmetrical setting. It puts so much focus on the face of Night. On the back is a replacement safety clasp and pin hinge. This Cameo is so much more beautiful than the one on Page 35 of Michelle Rowan’s book – “Nineteenth Century Cameos”. A real treasure to add to any collection of fine Victorian jewelry. Condition: Cameo is excellent! A few light natural striations above her head. These are created as the shell becomes dry with age. They are not visible with the naked eye. The setting has evidence of old solder repairs on the back. You will not see a better carving offered at this price! Size: 2 1/2” high, 1 3/4” wide, 1/4” deep.	SOLD!
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