Time Dances By - Mourning & Sentimental Jewelry

Item:	Description: Victorian Mourning Jewelry Victorian Mourning Jewelry Victorian	Price:
MJ081	MYSTIC PLUMES OF MEMORY ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Brooch / Pin ): From my personal collection I am offering this exceptionally fine and large Victorian Mourning Brooch inscribed “Richard Moiser. Died Feb..y 28, 1859. Aged 73 Years.”. A ttrue example of the “Grand Period” of Victorian jewelry styles this antique hair worked brooch has all of the “bells & whistles”! Consisting of four layers of embellishment, each layer is raised above the other. Executed in jeweler tested 14KT Gold, the bottom layer is raised gold scroll work with black enamel. Above that is another series of four elaborate raised entwined gold motifs that surround the oval of 33 large natural pearls, symbolic of sorrow. At the top under a covered oval are 5 palette-worked “Prince of Wales” hair plumes, joined together with seed pearls and gold wires. The plumes of blonde and brunette are set on a milk glass background. The domed back of the brooch retains its original C clasp and elongated pin stem. (the small ring is for a safety chain.) You can feel the pulse of the 19th Century in this regal and extravagant dimensional brooch. Condition: Excellent. All of the pearls encircling the oval appear original. One of the tiny seed pearls inside is missing. Light dust under the cover – of no consequence in a piece of this age. Size: 2 3/8” wide, 2” high, 1/2” deep. Hair compartment is 1” wide, 7/8” high.	$850.00
MJ082	HEART AFLAME WITH PASSION ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Vulcanite Locket ): This Victorian Mourning Locket (c. 1870 - 1890) is molded of vulcanite, an early form of plastic patented in 1864 by Charles Goodyear (Yes, tires!) Vulcanite is light weight and a deep black that could be highly polished as a substitute for jet. The motif on this superb and complex locket is Faith (the Cross), Hope (the Anchor complete with chain) and Charity (the Heart). From my personal collection, this locket has as its centerpiece a bold flaming heart – symbolizing extreme religious fervor. The flaming heart makes this locket special! The molded motif is pegged or riveted to the front of the highly polished, hinged locket. Plain on its backside, when opened the entire surface of both inside compartments are elaborately decorated with stamped floral designs. The twin sets of rims and celluloid covers are intact and were meant to hold a portrait or a hairwork souvenir. The ring at the top is painted metal and the hinge is also made of metal. It closes firmly with a soft “click”. I recommend wearing the locket high because you can see the motif best and when you lean forward it will not swing and hit against anything. (Check page 37 of the Bell book "Answers to Questions About Old Jewelry" for a remarkably similar locket interior.) Originally suitable for mourning, black also became, and remains, “high fashion” jewelry. Don’t pass this locket up – it is stunning and dramatic. Condition: Excellent. One minute nibble on the anchor – not visible in life size. Slight loss of paint from ring. Size: 2”high, including ring, 1 ½” wide, 1” deep, including the top motif.	SOLD!
CA094	TO THY CROSS I CLING ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Cameo Brooch / Pin Pendant ): The subject of this touchingly sentimental hand carved shell Cameo is an “Allegory of Death”. (c. 1850-1880) A grieving woman is portrayed, head bowed with grief, with a cross in her hands as she prays for her departed loved one. The skull at her side is a timely reminder that death is always with us. The depicting of death and grief was a popular theme during the Victorian era. This design harkens back to the old hymn, “Simply to Thy Cross I Cling.” This Cameo carving is bezel set in a frame marked “14KT”, with a C clasp closure that includes an early safety lock and a swivel pendant bale. (Setting is probably c. 1900.) This is a rare, expression of a “Memento Mori”, the timely reminder that “we all must die”. I believe it is signed on the back with either the initials “PM” or “DM”. Mourning collectors covet this Cameo subject and they have become quite scarce. Condition: Very good. Frame is slightly irregular on the left side, probably made to fit the shell edge. There are some striations from a natural drying of the shell, but they are not visible to the naked eye – only in enlargements. Size: 1 ¾” high, 1 ¼” wide, approximately ¼” deep.	SOLD!
MJ078	ONYX TALISMAN ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Onyx & Hair Pendant ): Preserving hair of loved ones has been a sentimental custom for centuries. This tradition blossomed during the 18th Century as hair saved in a brooch or pendant could be worn, like a talisman, close to the heart. This outstanding Antique Onyx Hand Carved Shell Pendant is a lovely example of mourning jewelry at its simple, sleek best. (1850-70) A scalloped shell symbolizes resurrection, hopefully for the two lovers becoming one in death as they complete life’s journey. The shell is carved to curve outward and end in scalloped edges. There is a black enameled bale with a hook to slide on a chain or hook it into a chain. On the back is a jeweler tested 14KT gold glass covered compartment containing elegantly woven hair in two colors – blonde and deep brown. It appears to be woven in a lover’s knot design. The use of onyx for this memorial keepsake symbolizes reciprocal love. This is an extraordinary example of mourning jewelry. A seldom seen design that fits perfectly with today’s perpetual high fashion color - Black. Condition: Excellent. Size: From top of bale 2 1/2” long, 1 1/2” wide, 3/8” deep. Hair compartment 1” high, 3/4” wide.	SOLD!
MJ079	HAND OF REMEMBRANCE ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Vulcanite Hand Brooch / Pin ): I am pleased to offer a most unusual Antique Vulcanite Mourning Brooch. (c. 1860-70) It is a highly detailed and charming example of a Victorian “hand” brooch. A more circular design than most hand brooches, this one holds a wreath of forget-me-nots. These tiny floral tributes are symbolic of remembrance and love. Notice the tiny fingernails and the high polish on the hand, giving it the appearance of jet. Hands holding flowers and wreathes were common motifs in jewelry, lithography and cemetery iconography. They represented the popular sentiments associated with affection and remembrance. This is a scarce, eye catching example of the Victorian passion for hands of love and loss. The riveted pin back has a C clasp. I like to wear two hand brooches at once – mixing a black hand with an ivory hand for dramatic visual effect. Condition: Very good. A tiny ding on one finger – not visible to the naked eye. A tiny loss on one finger tip, but it is on the edge so it is not visible when the brooch is worn. It is a scarce design so these tiny marks of age are not significant. Size: 2 1/4” wide, 1 5/8” high, 3/8” deep.	SOLD!
MJ080	A CHERISHED GIFT ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Brooch / Pin ): This striated agate Victorian Mourning Brooch is jest perfect for the fashionable brown and green colors favored by fashion this year. The beveled rust colored agate stone is a beautiful contrast for the deep blonde braided hair under the glass cover. (c. 1850-70) The gold plated rim setting features applied decorative motifs at all four compass points. The elongated pin stem and C clasp closure are original to the piece. You can see the rivets that hold the hair compartment from the back. A richly colored and truly lovely Antique Brooch that will look chic on a suit at the office or great on denim. Designer Ralph Lauren has been featuring Scottish and Agate jewelry with his clothing recently. This brooch would make a dazzling duo with MJ077, the milky white brooch of similar design. Condition: Excellent. A tiny ding at 4:00, noted for accuracy. Not visible to the naked eye. Size: 1 ¾” high, 2 ¼” wide. Hair compartment ½” high, 1” wide.	$250.00
MJ077	PLEDGE OF REMEMBRANCE ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Pin / Brooch ): It is a pleasure to offer you this lovely mourning/sentimental Victorian brooch featuring a smooth chalcedony background stone. (c. 1870-80) Chalcedony is a family of minerals that are milky white to bluish in color. The soft radiance and glow of this stone made it suitable for half-mourning. This translucent milky stone makes a beautiful background for the elaborate gold plated center plaque containing finely woven dark brown hair. The hair is bezel set under a beveled celluloid cover. (Celluloid was invented in 1868.) The gold plated setting features engraved ribbon motifs at all four compass points. The back of this Antique Hair Brooch features a C clasp pin back. This is a very feminine and attractive brooch that truly looks well on all colors and can be casual or dressy. It goes very nicely with MJ078, a deep rust striated agate brooch of similar design. Condition: Excellent. A bit of wear to the gold plating. Of no significance in a piece this old. Size: 2 1/4” wide, 1 7/8” high, 1/4” deep. Hair oval is 7/8” wide, 1/2” high.	$335.00
MJ074	SAVED FROM OBLIVION ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Brooch / Pin ): “How slight, how small, how tiny a memorial saves a beloved one from oblivion!” (Line from poem - “A Lock of Hair”) This sumptuous Victorian Mourning Brooch exhibits an ornate 10KT hollowware setting which acts as a picture frame for the braided hair memento. The heavily engraved information on the back of the brooch raises its value and adds meaningful sentiment to this piece of Victorian history. Obviously, a brooch of great spiritual worth to its wearer, the delicate script reads: “James Linney. Obt. 18, February 1812. AET 66”. It continues: “Ann Linney. Obt. 12 September, 1842. AET 85”. My guess is that this brooch may have belonged to a daughter of the deceased couple. It would have been made after 1842, containing the hair of the woman, or possibly a blend of the two. The celluloid cover (invented in 1868) may be a replacement for earlier glass or the brooch itself could have been made after 1868 – not at all uncommon for the Victorian period. Lives certainly “gone but not forgotten”. Truly a beautiful and impressive keepsake. The original C clasp and elongated pin stem are still in place. Condition: Excellent. One slightly darkened area on the gold frame - of no consequence. Size: 2” wide, 1 5/8” high, 1/4” deep.	$425.00
MJ067	GRAND AND GLORIOUS PLUMES ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Brooch ): Grand in size, glorious in execution, this Victorian revolving (or swivel) brooch is simply stunning. (c. 1865-1880) Extremely desirable to collectors, this example of palette-work “Prince of Wales” feathers on milk glass is perfection. The 2 large plums are ash blonde and soft brown in color. The elaborate 10 KT setting features delicate engraving. The quality of this setting indicates that it was a piece made for a wealthy client. Both the original C clasp and elongated pin stem are still in place, as well as a tiny ring at the top where a safety chain could be added. When you revolve the central hair plaque you can see the black fiber background under a celluloid cover. At one time it probably held a photo of a loved one. Magnificent in size, the beauty and harmony of this mourning brooch declares that you are a serious, knowledgeable collector of fine Victorian jewelry. Condition: Excellent. It carries 150 years of loving history with it. There is a single loose hair, but it does not diminish the value or beauty of this piece. Size: 3” high, 2 1/2” wide, 1/2” deep.	$800.00
MJ065	THE WINGED SOUL DEPARTING ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Watch Pendant ): This very special Victorian Mourning piece has been in my collection for years. This beautifully executed, double sided pendant is made to resemble a “watch”, a death symbol dating back to the Middle Ages in Western Culture, denoting the brevity life. (c. 1870) The pendant is encased in beveled double sided celluloid covers, patented in 1868. Each side encloses elaborate varieties of palette work hair with sepia designs. This is the exact mourning piece pictured on Page 96 of Maureen DeLorme’s comprehensive book “Mourning Art and Jewelry”. The side that I refer to as the front is a 3 dimensional mother-of-pearl memorial with two tiny birds at the top – the one in the air represents the winged soul departing, while its mate remains behind to grieve. The milk glass background is hand tinted in delicate shades of sky blue and sunset pink. The reverse side of the pendant “watch” is elaborately designed in plumes and flowers. The 4 initials of the deceased are inscribed in a delicate script using sepia ink. The frame and “watch” top are gold stamped “14D” and there is a hallmark of an animal head. A matchless piece that belongs in a collection of Mourning rarities. Delicate and feminine, you can wear it without fear of damage. The ring at the top is large and will accommodate a chain or a neckwire. Condition: Excellent. One scratch on the front cover, not visible to the naked eye. A minute chip to the celluloid on the back edge (see photo of initials), not visible and only mentioned for accuracy. A word of warning – Do not try to open this locket. The delicate hair work could come loose. Size: 1 1/4” in diameter, 1/4” deep.	$1200.00
MJ061	THE HOPE OF SALVATION ( Georgian Mourning Jewelry Locket / Pendant ): A haunting and prevalent image from the late 18^th & early 19^th Centuries is that of a woman with an anchor. Dressed in idealized attire of the Grecian style, far from pathetic, she is a female Atlas, bearing a world of grief on her slim shoulders. In this polychrome, painted on ivory, Georgian Locket the woman is leaning on a blue anchor and points up to heaven. (c. 1790) In the background a ship at sea bravely sports a red flag and red and blue banners wave from the masts. Though nautical in theme, the loss of this loved one may have been from a number of causes. The anchor theme always represents “Hope and Salvation”. The border surrounding the Ivory Miniature is painted in a technique known as verre églomisé – reverse painting on glass. In other words you take the piece of beveled glass, turn it over and paint on the back. Once you turn it to the front you have an image in reverse. The decorative border is painted in gold and black enamel with a pale pink surround. The locket opens from the bottom and contains a piece of purple silk. You could put a photo or a lock of hair between the fabric and the back cover. The metal appears to be rose gold plated. The large bale is mounted on a hinge. This Antique Mourning Locket is a tangible touchstone from the past – an age where grief and remembrance were an integral part of life. Condition: Excellent. Over 200 years have produced some surface scratches and a dot of flaked enamel. There is a scratch on the ground at the bottom of the woman’s foot. A good sized locket that snaps closed tightly. Size: 1 1/2” diameter, hangs 2” including the bale.	$1100.00
MJ062	FRIENDSHIP IN SORROW ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Pendant ): The soft radiance and glow of translucent Carnelian give this Antique Mourning Pendant a rich and regal appeal. (c. 1840-1850) There is a crystal covered hair compartment containing braided hair at the center of this Maltese Cross. The hair is visible from both the front and the back of the cross. The 14 KT Gold setting is engraved with the initials “M.H.J.” & “to E.P.” No doubt a gift to a family member or dear friend. In the Victorian “Language of Gems”, carnelian represents “friendship in sorrow”. There is a spring ring to act as a bale. (A later addition.) Flattering to all skin tones, this memorial is a tasteful and appealing pendant to treasure for another lifetime. Condition: Excellent. No chips or cracks. Unusual for a piece of this design, the tips are often broken off. Light scratches on the gold not visible to the naked eye. Size: 1 1/2” high, 1 1/2” wide. Hair compartment is 1/2” square.	ON LAYAWAY!
VJ107	A PROMISE OF HOPE ( Victorian Jewelry Jet Brooch / Pin ): Anchors were popular as a mourning motif, sometimes representing a loved one lost at sea or referring to the three symbols of Christianity: Faith, Hope & Love, with the anchor representative of Hope. In this gleaming large scale carved Victorian Whitby Jet Brooch the anchor becomes an unforgettable example of Victorian Jewelry at its best. (c. 1850-1860) The shiny jet is jointed to form this design. The stem of the anchor fits into the top and bottom pieces. The twisted "rope" surrounding the Anchor is jeweler tested Sterling Silver. The original C clasp and extended pin stem are still in place. This Antique Brooch is as wearable today as it was over a century and a half ago. Jet is always elegant and sophisticated – fit for a Queen! Condition: Excellent. Some old adhesive at the joints on the back. Size: 3 5/8” high, 2 1/4” wide, 1/4” deep.	$300.00
MJ055	FAMILY TREE ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Locket & Link Collar ): It appears that the inside of this Antique Sterling Silver Locket represents a complete family tree of hair plumes. (c. 1880) This lovely locket & chain have both been jeweler tested as Sterling Silver. The shades of hair are beautifully worked complete with tiny pearls and gold wire coils. It may be a memento of a mother and her children. The front of the locket is fully engraved with ivy leaves and scroll work edging. Ivy was used as a symbol of immortality in marital love, fidelity and eternal life. The locket back is plain with a decorative border. It is paired with a collar (necklace) of pierced double row links that slide like silk around your neck. To put the collar on, you open the large spring ring at the center front and slide one end of the collar in. The locket can be worn alone by removing it from the large spring ring and adding a ribbon or neckwire to the silver bale. I would consider adding a back of neck closure myself. The inside retains its celluloid cover over the hair and a piece of black fabric on the other side. To discover an entire “family” of hair mementos is especially desirable to collectors. Condition: Excellent. Locket snaps closed tightly. No breaks in the links. Light wear – obviously by someone really wore and treasured this piece. You can feel the love. Celluloid cover has a scratch across it. Size: Locket and bale 2 3/8” high, 1 1/2” wide, 1/4” deep. Neck chain 17” long, 5/8” wide.	$550.00
MJ052	POIGNANT PASSING ( Georgian Mourning Jewelry Pendant ): A story of sadness is evident in this touching mid-Georgian (1782) sepia on ivory pendant. The scene depicts a grief stricken woman in classical dress leaning over an urn and plinth, her shoulders heavy with grief. A delicate veil covers her head but cannot conceal her heartfelt sorrow. A weeping willow tree hangs gently over the mournful scene. Portions of the ground, tree trunk and hanging willow branches are painted with dissolved hair. The image is crisp and clear. The delicate 9KT marquise shaped pendant has a fine gold bead work edging. Inscribed on the back are the words “John Smith, Died August 24, 1782, Aged 54 years”. This pendant was originally a brooch, but has been cleverly converted into a hinged bale pendant at some point in its long history. This is a captivating addition to any collection of mourning jewelry. Condition: Excellent. There are the usual fine surface scratches to the crystal that are not visible to the naked eye. There is a small crack in the crystal at the bottom of the V shape. Since it is over the ground, it does not detract from the piece. The price reflects these tiny signs of age and loving wear. Size: 1 1/2” high (minus bale), 7/8” wide.	$1400.00
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	Mourning & Sentimental Jewelry
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MUST READ Maureen DeLorme's book, Mourning Art & Jewelry, published April, 2004. This stunning book is the only complete work on Mourning customs and jewelry. Many pieces from my personal collection are featured. (See Reference Books under "Links" for more information.)