Time Dances By - Mourning & Sentimental Jewelry

Item:	Description: Victorian Mourning Jewelry Victorian Mourning Jewelry Victorian	Price:
MJ114	DOUBLY DIVINE ( Victorian Jewelry Portrait / Hair Brooch / Pin ): This extravagant Victorian Swivel Brooch is the essence of sheer beauty. Amazing craftsmanship from two artists is exhibited in this portrait and hair work brooch. (c. 1830-50) Probably a sentimental token, the floral bouquet of pansies and forget-me-nots symbolizes “remembrance” and “love” in the Victorian language of flowers. The dark brown hairwork is excellent and crisp. Beneath the hair work ribbons are the initials “C.C” and “F.A”, certainly meant as an affectionate message of love rather than loss. The 18KT rose gold frame is heavy and features lovely chase work. Swivel the marvelous bouquet and a miniature painting on ivory is revealed! The portrait miniature is captivating and eye catching. Hand painted on an ivory base, the regal lady is dressed in the style made famous by Marie Antoinette in the 18th Century. Her hair is a trademark style, piled high with powdered curls, it was known as “coif a la francaise”. Her features are painted in exceptional detail. The background – difficult to capture in a photo – is a soft green and we can tell that her dress is a bolder green with touches of white lace. The glass over both the portrait and the hair bouquet is slightly domed. There is a C clasp closure and an extended pin stem. What a perfect gift for your someone special. This romantic Antique Swivel Brooch conveys a timeless expression of love across the centuries and will become a legacy of love for you to pass on. Museum quality – an exceptional and unusual example of the very best of hair work jewelry! You won’t see this again so don’t let it get away! Condition: Excellent. Pristine. I don’t see any sign that it was ever worn. Size: 2” high, 1 5/8” wide, 3/8” deep.	SOLD!
MJ111	THE FRAGILE BEAUTY OF SEED PEARLS ( Victorian Mourning / Sentimental Jewelry Brooch / Pin ): The lace-like appearance of “seed pearl” jewelry was most appropriate and fashionable as bridal gifts. Often associated with romance or purity, these pearls were also representative of tears and occasionally used in mourning jewelry. I was so lucky to find this stunning Antique Seed Pearl Sentimental Brooch. (c. 1840-60) Jewelers typically used seed pearls imported from China and India. The tiny pearls were strung on silk or white horsehair and then attached by hand to a mother-of-pearl backing drilled for that purpose. Tiny hands and good eyesight were required! As to dating antique pieces, author Jeanenne Bell explains, “Because seed pearl jewelry was continued in the same manner for over a hundred years, the main clue for circa-dating comes from the style and scale of the piece.” This fine quality sentimental brooch has woven brown hair at its center with a very delicate gold wire twist surround. The largest pearls are set high above the smaller scalloped edging. There is a C clasp catch and extended pin stem on the back. The height of femininity, delicately crafted, this exquisite brooch will be a timeless center piece of your collection. Condition: Excellent. One tiny pearl missing and a small abrasion on the glass. For the appropriate handling and care of a delicate piece like this brooch, put it on after you apply any perfumes of lotions. Refrain from touching the pearls while wearing or the acids from your hands will be detrimental to their longevity. Size: 1 1/2" wide, 1 1/4" high, 3/8” deep.	SOLD!
MJ112	ENCLOSED TENDER TEAR DROPS ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Earrings ): Vibrant brown woven hair shimmers with life in these pierced 14KT gold and black enamel earrings surrounded by tiny seed pearls. (c. 1840-60) Tokens of hair, intimate and personal, were tangible mementos that offered the promise of immortality in a very mortal world. “If I should from this world depart / you could still remember me.” Enclosed under beveled glass, these exceptional antique beauties will always be protected from damage and handling – and can be worn as often as you like. Hair earrings are so fragile they often become frayed or separated and converted into pendants. This pair – with all its “bells and whistles” – is a remarkable find for serious collectors. The braided hair is surrounded by tiny pearls of “sorrow” and the black enamel bands of mourning. The closed back ear hooks have C clasp fasteners at the bottom so that they will stay where you want them and prevent the danger of falling off. Earrings are rare and becoming harder to find all the time. These are superb examples of love and the care taken with treasures of a life well lived……”Remember me.” Condition: Excellent. All original. Size: 3/4" high oval, 1/2" wide, 1/4" deep.	SOLD!
MJ109	DELICATE FORGET-ME-NOT TRIBUTE ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Ring ): This dainty Victorian Mourning Ring caught my eye with its simplicity of sentiment. (1860-80) Tested as 15KT gold, this lovely quality English mourning ring is beautifully made with a tapered band, ornate black vitreous enamel decoration and set with lustrous tiny pearls in the shape of a forget-me-not, complete with leaves for a total of seven pearls. (Of course, pearls symbolize tears.) I seldom buy rings because sizing is a problem. This band should be able to be made smaller if desired. It would make a lovely “pinky ring”. There is a hair memento space on the back of the flower, but it has lost its glass. “XVII” (17) is engraved on the back – perhaps the age when a beloved daughter passed on. A very sweet ring for a lady who prefers dainty and delicate jewelry. Condition: Excellent. Faint signs of wear – no loss or damage. Size: U.S. ring size 6. Center oval 1/2" high, 3/8” wide.	SOLD!
MJ110	ACCEPT THIS HAND OF SUPPORT ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Vulcanite Hand Brooch / Pin ): How the Victorians loved the “hand” brooch! This brooch is a very large Vulcanite hand – expressing support, love and remembrance. (c. 1870-80) Hands were common motifs in jewelry, lithography and cemetery iconography. Many of these hand brooches carried floral tributes, but this rare simple hand expresses support for a friend or loved one. The fingers seem almost relaxed, giving the impression of gentle comfort. The dainty fingernails, as well as the knuckles, of each finger are well defined. (This is by far the largest hand brooch I have ever had.) The deeply set C clasp and pin stem appear original. This superb and eye-catching example of the “passion for hands” will touch your heart. Condition: Excellent. Size: 2 1/4" long 1 1/8” wide, 5/8” deep.	$275.00
MJ113	A CHARMING MYSTERY ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry and Watch Pin ): The tradition of giving heart shaped initial charms was a long one. We know that this one was a mourning gift because of the script initials “W B, Feb. 15÷91” engraved on the back of the heart. The cut out initials on the front appear to by “Cn”. These tiny tokens would have been worn on bracelets or just kept as a remembrance of a loved one. There is hair behind the cut out initial motif. I have hung this tiny heart from an antique watch holder. If you examine the large hook on the back you will observe that these popular “watch pins” were very versatile and could serve to hold a watch, a locket or medallion from its hook. This Art Nouveau style pin is marked “SIMMONS” for Robert Fitz Simmons, Attleboro, MA – a company that produced pieces from 1875-1950. The heart and the pin match up very well, though made some years apart. The heart is 9KT rose gold and the ping is gold filled. There is an early safety clasp closure. Just press pin stem against guard to close it. Use fingernail on small guard knobs to open it. An attractive pair now sold together. You are bound to be asked about this pin. Make it a family member. Who will know? And WB will have found a home! Condition: Very good. Some fraying of hair at the top of the heart, but will not be noticed by the naked eye. Size: Pin with heart 1 5/5” long, 1” wide. Heart is 1/8” deep.	SOLD!
MJ106	DIVINE REST ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Brooch / Pendant ): Some of you have asked when I will sell any of the pieces from my personal collection. This Victorian Mourning Brooch (as seen in “Personal Collection” section) is so exquisite that to part with it has been a very difficult decision. Being both a brooch and a pendant makes it doubly desirable since pendants are scarcer than pins. This magnificent Antique Mourning Pendant is rich in symbolism. (c. 1850-70) It shows a sheaf of wheat, under a domed glass cover, perfectly rendered in light brown hair bound together by four seed pearls. Usually a wheat sheaf is a symbol of a divine harvest – often a gift for a bride since it also represents fertility. In this case, however, the broken and falling pieces denote the death of an elderly person. The iridescent white enamel background reflects and gleams brightly over the engine-turned guilloché. (Guilloché is machine engraved decoration on metal over which translucent enamel is applied – a technique that reached its zenith in the work of Peter Carl Fabergé.) The effect on this piece gives the illusion of a sunrise or in this case a sunset. The surface seems to glow with radiant and luscious color. The frame is comprised of tiny seed pearls representing tears – all original and identical in color. The setting is 14KT rose gold with the original C clasp and a ring for a pendant bale. This is an exceptional quality mourning piece that speaks to the heart. “Of all keepsakes, memorials, relics – most dearly, most devotedly do I love a little lock of hair. All else is gone to nothing.” Condition: Excellent. A few minute pearls gone from center. A few gold wires are mixed in with the hair. Size: 1 3/4" high, 1 1/4" wide, 1/4" deep.	$1800.00
MJ103	DELICATE DANCING HAIR DROPS ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Hair Earrings ): This pair of lacy and delicate brown Victorian table-worked earrings is a lovely example of mourning / sentimental jewelry. (c. 1850-70) These dangling earrings may well have been a sentimental token of love and affection since they lack the severe simplicity of mourning pieces. The three tubular hair dangles have 14KT gold caps at both the top and bottom. They are suspended from a circular golden wire cage that contains a single round drop. The shepard’s hook ear wires are original. When you hold them up – or better yet – wear them, you can truly appreciate what an art form this passion for intimate and personal jewelry had become to the Victorians. The rage from mourning and sentimental had risen dramatically after 1850 (the sad loss of Victoria’s husband, Albert) and was considered by many to be a superior choice to the wearing of metallic jewelry. What a treat to have these “ear bobs” dance near your face with every movement. Move over Scarlett O’Hara and make room for the delicacy and refinement of these outstanding Antique Hair Earrings. Condition: Excellent. Firm with no fraying, dangles retain their original shape. One of the ear wires is slightly bent. Size: 2” long, 1 1/4" wide, 3/8” deep.	$500.00
MJ101	PASSION FLOWER FAREWELL ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Locket ): This is a lovely example of a Victorian “In Memory Of” locket. (c. 1860-80) Lockets such as these typically feature death motifs – urns, garlands crosses, etc. – on the outside. The scene on the front of this enamel and vermeil (gold wash over silver) pendant depicts a large white cross with the letters “IMO” (In Memory Of) painted at the center. The cross is set among a cluster of passion flowers. In the Victorian “language of Flowers” these blossoms hold great significance – the passion flower represents the passion of Christ as seen it the lacy “crown of thorns” center of the flower, the five stamens being the five wounds and the ten petals representing the ten Apostles. The drooping flower buds near the arms of the cross are symbols of sadness bowing in grief. A lot of symbolic meaning in a small space! There is a leaf engraved design that circles the edge of the enamel and a bale that is not be original to the piece. (The color of the edge of the locket is much more golden than it appears in the photos.) The inside compartment retains its original rim and celluloid cover with a piece of rose colored fabric within. The back is a smooth, milky oval of translucent chalcedony. The locket closes firmly. This Antique Mourning Locket remains a touching tribute to the past and the Passion of Christ. Other IMO lockets from my collection appear on pages 95 and 96 of Maureen DeLorme’s informative book “Mourning Art and Jewelry”. Condition: Excellent. A few scratches to the enamel (they are antique, too). Scratches are not visible to the naked eye. Size: 1 1/2" high without the bale, 1 7/8” with bale, 1 1/8” wide, 1/4" deep.	SOLD!
MJ097	ETERNAL SERPENT ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Snake Brooch / Pin ): This remarkably striking black and white banded agate Mourning Brooch features an 18KT gold plated serpent wrapped around the outer gold circle rim. (c. 1870-80) Beginning with his tail the serpent entwines his body around the black banded agate in gradually wider coils ending with his large head resting upon the top of the agate. Such a wonderful face! The snake has his mouth open and you can see his forked tongue. The serpent is probably the best known and most successful motif drawn from the animal world. Beloved by Queen Victoria, the snake symbolized love, eternity, rebirth, immortality and wisdom. (And you thought it was just a slimy reptile!) This combination – snake and agate – was frequently worn as memorial jewelry. On the back is a circular compartment designed to hold a photo or hair memento under the glass cover. (This compartment can be removed if you choose to enclose a personal memorial.) The original C clasp closure is in place. Regal, yet simple, these snake memorial pieces are highly desirable and a great favorite with collectors. This is a large, majestic brooch that will be hard to top! Condition: Excellent. Size: 1 5/8” diameter, 3/4" deep.	$650.00
VJ175	ANOTHER ANGEL GETS HER WINGS ( Victorian Jewelry Ivory Portrait Miniature / Pendant ): Originally purchased in London, this is one of the most haunting and poignant portrait miniatures I have come upon. She is simply an angel. (c. 1900) Hand painted on Ivory, her face is magnificent. Her blue eyes seem to gaze in the distance and her lips are sweetly closed. Fine blonde curls cascade down to her slight shoulders, giving the effect of being surrounded by light. Dainty hands are posed holding white robes draped around her and upon her beautifully painted hands she wears a tiny gold ring on her right middle finger. The symbols of the blue sky background, the wearing of the robes which flow about her like billowing clouds and the arrangement of her hands suggest that she is deceased. Gone but Not Forgotten. An irresistible image that will touch your heart. The portrait is set in an 18KT rose gold frame held with four pins and the back is covered in green velvet. There is a lovely wide bale for a chain. I can not find a signature, but this is clearly the work of a skilled artist. Amazingly, the original antique traveling case with a beige velvet bed and beige silk interior lining survives. The case is made of wood covered by dark brown leather. The leather on the front is cracked and the silk frayed – as shown in the photos. I can only imagine the grieving mother or father who constantly kept this reminder at hand, even when traveling. Not lost but gone before-she is simply an angel. Condition: Portrait and setting are excellent. The case shows the wear of time. Size: Portrait is 2 5/8” high, 2” wide, 1/4” deep.	$1500.00
MJ093	HOPE FROM HEAVEN ( Georgian Mourning Jewelry Locket / Pendant ): A haunting and prevalent image from the late 18th & early 19th Centuries is that of a woman with an anchor. Dressed in idealized attire of the Grecian style, far from pathetic, she is a female Atlas, bearing a world of grief on her slim shoulders. In this polychrome, painted on ivory, Georgian Locket the woman is leaning on a blue anchor and points up to heaven. (c. 1790) In the background a ship at sea bravely sports a long red pennant and a blue banner waving from the masts tops, along with a large red flag flying from the aft pole. Though nautical in theme, the loss of this loved one may have been from a number of causes. The anchor theme always represents “Hope and Salvation”. Standing on a rocky promontory, this image appears to be beseeching heaven above to return her loved one from the dangers of the sea. I love her little bright yellow shoes and deep blue cloak. The color is so bright that it could have been painted yesterday. This Georgian Antique Locket / Pendant is set in 15KT gold with the original glass covers on both sides. The locket opens from the back and presently has a background of fabric. You could put a photo or a lock of hair under the back cover. The bale swivels from side to side. (The chain is not included.) Most Georgian polychrome painted pieces are pins, so it is refreshing to have a pendant in sturdy, wearable condition. This Antique Mourning Locket / Pendant is a tangible touchstone from the past – an age where grief and remembrance were an integral part of life. Condition: Excellent. Over 200 years have produced some surface scratches and two spots of flaked polychrome at 6 & 8 o’clock. The price reflects these tiny imperfections. Size: Locket and bale 1 7/8” high, 1 1/4” wide, 1/4” deep.	$825.00
MJ090	PROMISE OF IMMORTALITY ( Georgian Jewelry Mourning Brooch ): While Heaven was the understood goal of life’s journey, there was a passionate, often repeated, desire not to be forgotten. Women wanted to leave something tangible behind. Hairwork mementos offered the promise of immortality in a very mortal world. This diminutive 14KT gold Georgian hair lace pin tells a story all its own. (c. 1830) The Grecian-style neo-classic frame features a Greek key design executed in black and white enamel. White enamel was used to indicate mourning for a child or a virgin maiden. The brown, tightly plaited hair is set under beveled glass with a raised embellished bezel setting providing a luxurious touch of gold. The back has its original C clasp closure. Georgian jewelry tended to be smaller than Victorian. Much rarer than black enamel, the white enamel provides a dainty and feminine beauty to this petite, delicate brooch. This Antique Mourning Brooch serves as an eternal memorial and is a way to keep precious memories alive. Condition: Excellent. Size: 1” wide, 3/4” high, 1/8” deep.	$435.00
MJ091	BONNIE PRINCE CHARLES II ( Mourning Jewelry Vulcanite & Jet Brooch ): What a striking brooch this is! It is made of Vulcanite with a Jet setting. Vulcanite is an early form of moldable plastic patented in 1864 by Charles Goodyear. (Yes, tires!) Vulcanite is light weight and a deep black that could be highly polished as well as molded. It was used as a substitute for Jet, but also used with Jet as in this lovely piece. (You can feel the Jet setting is cooler against your cheek than the Vulcanite centerpiece.) The back retains its original pin closure and C clasp. The motif of this unusual themed brooch is what drew me to it. The centerpiece is a complex mixture of Oak Leaves, Acorns & Acorn Caps. (c. 1870-80) Oak leaves and acorns are traditional symbols of power, strength, honor and endurance. They are often seen on military tombs to represent victory. A much more interesting fact is that oak leaves symbolize King Charles II. In exile from England, Bonnie Prince Charles climbed into an oak tree and lay hidden among the branches. Some of Cromwell’s soldiers rode directly under the tree. They were so close that he could hear them talking. For a whole day he lay in the oak tree while his pursuers searched fruitlessly for him. Originally a sign of deep mourning, black also became, and remains, “high fashion” jewelry. Don’t pass this Antique story brooch up – it is both historic and dramatic. Condition: Excellent. On minute leaf tip possibly missing. Size: 2” high, 1 ¾” wide, ½” deep.	$350.00
MJ081	MYSTIC PLUMES OF MEMORY ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Brooch / Pin ): From my personal collection I am offering this exceptionally fine and large Victorian Mourning Brooch inscribed “Richard Moiser. Died Feb..y 28, 1859. Aged 73 Years.”. A ttrue example of the “Grand Period” of Victorian jewelry styles this antique hair worked brooch has all of the “bells & whistles”! Consisting of four layers of embellishment, each layer is raised above the other. Executed in jeweler tested 14KT Gold, the bottom layer is raised gold scroll work with black enamel. Above that is another series of four elaborate raised entwined gold motifs that surround the oval of 33 large natural pearls, symbolic of sorrow. At the top under a covered oval are 5 palette-worked “Prince of Wales” hair plumes, joined together with seed pearls and gold wires. The plumes of blonde and brunette are set on a milk glass background. The domed back of the brooch retains its original C clasp and elongated pin stem. (the small ring is for a safety chain.) You can feel the pulse of the 19th Century in this regal and extravagant dimensional brooch. Condition: Excellent. All of the pearls encircling the oval appear original. One of the tiny seed pearls inside is missing. Light dust under the cover – of no consequence in a piece of this age. Size: 2 3/8” wide, 2” high, 1/2” deep. Hair compartment is 1” wide, 7/8” high.	$850.00
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MUST READ Maureen DeLorme's book, Mourning Art & Jewelry, published April, 2004. This stunning book is the only complete work on Mourning customs and jewelry. Many pieces from my personal collection are featured. (See Reference Books under "Links" for more information.)