Time Dances By - Mourning & Sentimental Jewelry

Item:	Description: Victorian Mourning Jewelry Victorian Mourning Jewelry Victorian	Price:
MJ093	HOPE FROM HEAVEN ( Georgian Mourning Jewelry Locket / Pendant ): A haunting and prevalent image from the late 18th & early 19th Centuries is that of a woman with an anchor. Dressed in idealized attire of the Grecian style, far from pathetic, she is a female Atlas, bearing a world of grief on her slim shoulders. In this polychrome, painted on ivory, Georgian Locket the woman is leaning on a blue anchor and points up to heaven. (c. 1790) In the background a ship at sea bravely sports a long red pennant and a blue banner waving from the masts tops, along with a large red flag flying from the aft pole. Though nautical in theme, the loss of this loved one may have been from a number of causes. The anchor theme always represents “Hope and Salvation”. Standing on a rocky promontory, this image appears to be beseeching heaven above to return her loved one from the dangers of the sea. I love her little bright yellow shoes and deep blue cloak. The color is so bright that it could have been painted yesterday. This Georgian Antique Locket / Pendant is set in 15KT gold with the original glass covers on both sides. The locket opens from the back and presently has a background of fabric. You could put a photo or a lock of hair under the back cover. The bale swivels from side to side. (The chain is not included.) Most Georgian polychrome painted pieces are pins, so it is refreshing to have a pendant in sturdy, wearable condition. This Antique Mourning Locket / Pendant is a tangible touchstone from the past – an age where grief and remembrance were an integral part of life. Condition: Excellent. Over 200 years have produced some surface scratches and two spots of flaked polychrome at 6 & 8 o’clock. The price reflects these tiny imperfections. Size: Locket and bale 1 7/8” high, 1 1/4” wide, 1/4” deep.	$825.00
MJ092	BLACK & WHITE / JET & PEARLS ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Jet & Pearl Locket / Pendant ): When Queen Victoria lost her beloved Prince Albert and plunged all of her vast realm into mourning, black jewelry was the only jewelry allowed at court. The sympathy of her loyal subjects set a fashion for jet jewelry that lasted for decades. Jet is a form of fossilized coal, the best of which was mined in the seaside town of Whitby. Throughout the middle of the 19th Century, when fashion demanded large jewelry pieces, this hand carved Antique Whitby Jet Locket / Pendant would have been the very height of chic. (c. 1870-80) Intricately carved with a looped scroll surround and a twisted rope edging, the center of the front features an applied silver with a gold wash wreath set with lustrous natural pearls. The pearls, symbolizing tears, are all original and the hand carved work is just wonderful. An easily accessed glazed locket compartment on the back currently holds a piece of fabric, but would be meant for hair, a photo or even a dried flower. The large original fitted bale is attached to the locket with a black metal ring. This is an eye-catching, wearable and extremely collectible Whitby Jet Pendant. A regal piece with style and substance, Jet is always elegant and sophisticated – fit for a Queen! Condition: Excellent. The pearl necklace is not included. Slight signs of wear on bale. A tiny nibble to the back – not visible to the naked eye. Size: Pendant with bale 3” long. Pendant drop alone 2” high, 2 3/4” wide, 5/8” deep.	$500.00
MJ094	DAINTY BASKETWEAVE KEEPSAKE ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Hair Ring ): “Few things in this weary world are so delightful as keepsakes. How slight a memorial saves a beloved one from oblivion.” (A Victorian poem A Lock of Hair, author unknown.) This beautiful dainty Victorian Mourning Ring was originally a memorial pin/brooch. The back of the pin is dated “1846”. (The “846” are easily seen in photo. The rest of the inscription can not be read.) At some point in its history this delicate antique lace pin was made into a ring. A jeweler worked the design on the shoulders of the ring band - marked “750” (18KT) - to match the original gold setting motif of leaf, scroll and ball surrounding the hair compartment. I am certain that this was an early alteration since the mark “750” hasn’t been used since the 1800’s. Very light brown, perhaps ash blonde hair has been woven and placed under glass. Currently a ring size 7 ¼, this ring could be made larger, but the proportions are perfect as it is. This is a pretty and petite ring to wear, reminding us of a time when “I have a piece of thee” provided loving comfort. Condition: Excellent. The basketweave hairwork is in perfect order. Difficult to photograph because the glass makes the hair appear distorted. Size: Setting 1 1/8” high, 5/8” wide, 1/4” deep. Ring band is 1/4” wide and is a ring size 7 ¼.	ON LAYAWAY!
MJ089	MEMORIES IN MOTHER-OF-PEARL ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Brooch ): I am delighted to pass on to you this captivating Victorian Mourning Brooch from my personal collection. What can I add to the splendid photos of this incredibly exquisite piece of memorial jewelry? (c. 1860-80) The background is Mother-of-Pearl and shimmers and glints in pink and green as it is moved (impossible to capture in photos). The palette-work hair displays a border of light brown leaves encircling the most breathtaking initials delicately rendered in black hair. Be sure to notice the tiny black dots that surround the initials. Each “dot” is made from the black hair. (I am not certain what the initials are – possibly “JGB” – the “B” in the middle is generally the last name.) The combination of black and light brown hair against the M-O-P is striking and elegant. There is an almost lacy appearance to the hair work. The beaded 14KT gold frame is a luscious red gold. This color is achieved by adding a touch of copper to the gold. The C clasp pin back is original. This brooch is a masterpiece of skilled work and superb in every respect. Condition: Excellent. Size: 1 5/8” high, 1 3/8” wide.	SOLD!
MJ090	PROMISE OF IMMORTALITY ( Georgian Jewelry Mourning Brooch ): While Heaven was the understood goal of life’s journey, there was a passionate, often repeated, desire not to be forgotten. Women wanted to leave something tangible behind. Hairwork mementos offered the promise of immortality in a very mortal world. This diminutive 14KT gold Georgian hair lace pin tells a story all its own. (c. 1830) The Grecian-style neo-classic frame features a Greek key design executed in black and white enamel. White enamel was used to indicate mourning for a child or a virgin maiden. The brown, tightly plaited hair is set under beveled glass with a raised embellished bezel setting providing a luxurious touch of gold. The back has its original C clasp closure. Georgian jewelry tended to be smaller than Victorian. Much rarer than black enamel, the white enamel provides a dainty and feminine beauty to this petite, delicate brooch. This Antique Mourning Brooch serves as an eternal memorial and is a way to keep precious memories alive. Condition: Excellent. Size: 1” wide, 3/4” high, 1/8” deep.	$435.00
MJ088	SWEET & DAINTY FLORAL TRIBUTE ( Victorian Jewelry Mourning / Sentimental Brooch ): It is a pleasure to offer you this lovely Victorian Sentimental Brooch featuring a smooth chalcedony background stone. (c. 1870-80) Chalcedony is a family of minerals that is milky white to bluish in color. On top of the milky white stone, sits a hand-carved green agate Hardstone Cameo of a single Forget-Me-Not. The flower is framed by an extravagantly embellished 10KT gold oval setting. A three tiered brooch of enduring appeal, the engraved outer decorative frame tests as 10 KT gold as well. On the back you can see the round rivets that affix the Cameo to the chalcedony. The pin stem is a replacement and there is a tiny ring for a safety chain. Note that the pin stem has the closure at the top if you wear the flower straight up. In the trans-illuminated photos you can see the lovely milkish swirls in the stone. Sweetly feminine, this dainty Antique Sentimental Brooch exhibits a refined timeless appeal that makes it as wearable today as it was a century and a half ago. Condition: Excellent. No flaw to the flower carving. It was origionally carved that way. Size: 1 3/4” high, 1 5/8” wide, 3/8” deep. Floral Cameo & setting is 3/4” high, 5/8” wide.	$275.00
MJ091	BONNIE PRINCE CHARLES II ( Mourning Jewelry Vulcanite & Jet Brooch ): What a striking brooch this is! It is made of Vulcanite with a Jet setting. Vulcanite is an early form of moldable plastic patented in 1864 by Charles Goodyear. (Yes, tires!) Vulcanite is light weight and a deep black that could be highly polished as well as molded. It was used as a substitute for Jet, but also used with Jet as in this lovely piece. (You can feel the Jet setting is cooler against your cheek than the Vulcanite centerpiece.) The back retains its original pin closure and C clasp. The motif of this unusual themed brooch is what drew me to it. The centerpiece is a complex mixture of Oak Leaves, Acorns & Acorn Caps. (c. 1870-80) Oak leaves and acorns are traditional symbols of power, strength, honor and endurance. They are often seen on military tombs to represent victory. A much more interesting fact is that oak leaves symbolize King Charles II. In exile from England, Bonnie Prince Charles climbed into an oak tree and lay hidden among the branches. Some of Cromwell’s soldiers rode directly under the tree. They were so close that he could hear them talking. For a whole day he lay in the oak tree while his pursuers searched fruitlessly for him. Originally a sign of deep mourning, black also became, and remains, “high fashion” jewelry. Don’t pass this Antique story brooch up – it is both historic and dramatic. Condition: Excellent. On minute leaf tip possibly missing. Size: 2” high, 1 ¾” wide, ½” deep.	$350.00
MJ085	HAIR PLAITS OF REMEMBRANCE (Victorian Mourning Jewelry Hair Brooch / Pin): Tokens of hair were intimate and personal. “If I should from this world depart / You could still remember me.” Enclosed under beveled glass is a plait of light brown and golden hair in beautiful condition. (c. 1860-80) The ornate gold plated mounting is embellished with black enamel creating the effect of a picture frame for the plaited hair. On the reverse there are three sets of initials – difficult to read the script, but they appear to be “J.J.”, “E.A. J.” & “J.J.”. The hinge and pin stem look like early replacements, but the C clasp closure is original. A lovely example of the passion for Victorian mourning jewelry. This Antique Hair Brooch is large enough to wear alone and the beautiful harmony of the elements declares that you are a knowledgeable collector. Condition: Excellent. There are some fine scratches, but they are antique, too. The plating shows wear on the back, but the front is just lovely. Size: 2” wide, 1 ½” high, ¼” deep.	$300.00
MJ004	GOLDEN LOCKS ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Brooch ): This brooch is so pristine that it appears to be waiting for its owner to arrive. It looks like it was made only yesterday! This beautiful Victorian piece has blonde palette-worked hair curls on an ivory backing. It is accented with gold wire and delicate turquoise. The use of turquoise instead of pearls is very unusual and the touch of color is so feminine. The brooch is ca 1850 - 80 and set in a mounting of interlocking pinchbeck (gold filled) rings. The gold is very yellow, almost a gilt look. There is a fabric backing and an extended pin with a C clasp. Condition: Excellent. 2" wide, 1 3/4" high, 1/4" deep.	$325.00
MJ081	MYSTIC PLUMES OF MEMORY ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Brooch / Pin ): From my personal collection I am offering this exceptionally fine and large Victorian Mourning Brooch inscribed “Richard Moiser. Died Feb..y 28, 1859. Aged 73 Years.”. A ttrue example of the “Grand Period” of Victorian jewelry styles this antique hair worked brooch has all of the “bells & whistles”! Consisting of four layers of embellishment, each layer is raised above the other. Executed in jeweler tested 14KT Gold, the bottom layer is raised gold scroll work with black enamel. Above that is another series of four elaborate raised entwined gold motifs that surround the oval of 33 large natural pearls, symbolic of sorrow. At the top under a covered oval are 5 palette-worked “Prince of Wales” hair plumes, joined together with seed pearls and gold wires. The plumes of blonde and brunette are set on a milk glass background. The domed back of the brooch retains its original C clasp and elongated pin stem. (the small ring is for a safety chain.) You can feel the pulse of the 19th Century in this regal and extravagant dimensional brooch. Condition: Excellent. All of the pearls encircling the oval appear original. One of the tiny seed pearls inside is missing. Light dust under the cover – of no consequence in a piece of this age. Size: 2 3/8” wide, 2” high, 1/2” deep. Hair compartment is 1” wide, 7/8” high.	$850.00
MJ080	A CHERISHED GIFT ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Brooch / Pin ): This striated agate Victorian Mourning Brooch is jest perfect for the fashionable brown and green colors favored by fashion this year. The beveled rust colored agate stone is a beautiful contrast for the deep blonde braided hair under the glass cover. (c. 1850-70) The gold plated rim setting features applied decorative motifs at all four compass points. The elongated pin stem and C clasp closure are original to the piece. You can see the rivets that hold the hair compartment from the back. A richly colored and truly lovely Antique Brooch that will look chic on a suit at the office or great on denim. Designer Ralph Lauren has been featuring Scottish and Agate jewelry with his clothing recently. This brooch would make a dazzling duo with MJ077, the milky white brooch of similar design. Condition: Excellent. A tiny ding at 4:00, noted for accuracy. Not visible to the naked eye. Size: 1 ¾” high, 2 ¼” wide. Hair compartment ½” high, 1” wide.	$250.00
MJ077	PLEDGE OF REMEMBRANCE ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Pin / Brooch ): It is a pleasure to offer you this lovely mourning/sentimental Victorian brooch featuring a smooth chalcedony background stone. (c. 1870-80) Chalcedony is a family of minerals that are milky white to bluish in color. The soft radiance and glow of this stone made it suitable for half-mourning. This translucent milky stone makes a beautiful background for the elaborate gold plated center plaque containing finely woven dark brown hair. The hair is bezel set under a beveled celluloid cover. (Celluloid was invented in 1868.) The gold plated setting features engraved ribbon motifs at all four compass points. The back of this Antique Hair Brooch features a C clasp pin back. This is a very feminine and attractive brooch that truly looks well on all colors and can be casual or dressy. It goes very nicely with MJ078, a deep rust striated agate brooch of similar design. Condition: Excellent. A bit of wear to the gold plating. Of no significance in a piece this old. Size: 2 1/4” wide, 1 7/8” high, 1/4” deep. Hair oval is 7/8” wide, 1/2” high.	$335.00
MJ074	SAVED FROM OBLIVION ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Brooch / Pin ): “How slight, how small, how tiny a memorial saves a beloved one from oblivion!” (Line from poem - “A Lock of Hair”) This sumptuous Victorian Mourning Brooch exhibits an ornate 10KT hollowware setting which acts as a picture frame for the braided hair memento. The heavily engraved information on the back of the brooch raises its value and adds meaningful sentiment to this piece of Victorian history. Obviously, a brooch of great spiritual worth to its wearer, the delicate script reads: “James Linney. Obt. 18, February 1812. AET 66”. It continues: “Ann Linney. Obt. 12 September, 1842. AET 85”. My guess is that this brooch may have belonged to a daughter of the deceased couple. It would have been made after 1842, containing the hair of the woman, or possibly a blend of the two. The celluloid cover (invented in 1868) may be a replacement for earlier glass or the brooch itself could have been made after 1868 – not at all uncommon for the Victorian period. Lives certainly “gone but not forgotten”. Truly a beautiful and impressive keepsake. The original C clasp and elongated pin stem are still in place. Condition: Excellent. One slightly darkened area on the gold frame - of no consequence. Size: 2” wide, 1 5/8” high, 1/4” deep.	$425.00
MJ067	GRAND AND GLORIOUS PLUMES ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Brooch ): Grand in size, glorious in execution, this Victorian revolving (or swivel) brooch is simply stunning. (c. 1865-1880) Extremely desirable to collectors, this example of palette-work “Prince of Wales” feathers on milk glass is perfection. The 2 large plums are ash blonde and soft brown in color. The elaborate 10 KT setting features delicate engraving. The quality of this setting indicates that it was a piece made for a wealthy client. Both the original C clasp and elongated pin stem are still in place, as well as a tiny ring at the top where a safety chain could be added. When you revolve the central hair plaque you can see the black fiber background under a celluloid cover. At one time it probably held a photo of a loved one. Magnificent in size, the beauty and harmony of this mourning brooch declares that you are a serious, knowledgeable collector of fine Victorian jewelry. Condition: Excellent. It carries 150 years of loving history with it. There is a single loose hair, but it does not diminish the value or beauty of this piece. Size: 3” high, 2 1/2” wide, 1/2” deep.	$800.00
MJ061	THE HOPE OF SALVATION ( Georgian Mourning Jewelry Locket / Pendant ): A haunting and prevalent image from the late 18^th & early 19^th Centuries is that of a woman with an anchor. Dressed in idealized attire of the Grecian style, far from pathetic, she is a female Atlas, bearing a world of grief on her slim shoulders. In this polychrome, painted on ivory, Georgian Locket the woman is leaning on a blue anchor and points up to heaven. (c. 1790) In the background a ship at sea bravely sports a red flag and red and blue banners wave from the masts. Though nautical in theme, the loss of this loved one may have been from a number of causes. The anchor theme always represents “Hope and Salvation”. The border surrounding the Ivory Miniature is painted in a technique known as verre églomisé – reverse painting on glass. In other words you take the piece of beveled glass, turn it over and paint on the back. Once you turn it to the front you have an image in reverse. The decorative border is painted in gold and black enamel with a pale pink surround. The locket opens from the bottom and contains a piece of purple silk. You could put a photo or a lock of hair between the fabric and the back cover. The metal appears to be rose gold plated. The large bale is mounted on a hinge. This Antique Mourning Locket is a tangible touchstone from the past – an age where grief and remembrance were an integral part of life. Condition: Excellent. Over 200 years have produced some surface scratches and a dot of flaked enamel. There is a scratch on the ground at the bottom of the woman’s foot. A good sized locket that snaps closed tightly. Size: 1 1/2” diameter, hangs 2” including the bale.	$1100.00
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MUST READ Maureen DeLorme's book, Mourning Art & Jewelry, published April, 2004. This stunning book is the only complete work on Mourning customs and jewelry. Many pieces from my personal collection are featured. (See Reference Books under "Links" for more information.)