Time Dances By - Mourning & Sentimental Jewelry

Item:	Description: Victorian Mourning Jewelry Victorian Mourning Jewelry Victorian	Price:
MJ100	BOUQUETS OF LOVE ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Hair Earrings ): These breathtaking French 18K Rose Gold Victorian pierced earrings are a collectors dream! Amazing skill and artistry went into the creation of these beautiful hair work bouquets of love. (c. 1850-60) Resting on oval plaques of milk glass, brunette pansies and forget-me-nots with long stems and leaves have been painstakingly palette worked in miniature. Perhaps a token of affection rather than mourning, these blossoms symbolize “remembrance” and “love” in the Victorian “Language of Flowers”. The floral stems are so delicate that it seems almost impossible to have been done by human hands. The 18KT rose gold setting is very pink – more than the photos are able to capture. The pierced ear wires are accented with a shell or scallop design (a symbol of one’s “life journey”) from which the articulated glass enclosed earring drops are suspended. The hair work is bezel set high above the frame of etched floral buds that form a cascading crescent at the top of the drop. Three tiers of fine beading surround the oval hair compartments finished off with tiny etched leaves at the bottom. The glass covers on the back contain creamy beige fabric. These covers can be opened if desired. I believe the tiny figure on both sides of the base of both ear wires contains an eagle’s head – the French mark for 18KT. These romantic Antique French Earrings convey their timeless expression of love across the centuries and will become a legacy of love for you to pass on. Museum quality – exceptional examples of the very best of hair work jewelry! Condition: Excellent. They have been recently polished. One tiny petal is lost. Some water damage to fabric on one earring back. Size: Oval drops are 1” high, 3/4" wide, 1/4" deep. From top of the shell they hang 1 1/4" long.	SOLD!
MJ097	ETERNAL SERPENT ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Snake Brooch / Pin ): This remarkably striking black and white banded agate Mourning Brooch features an 18KT gold plated serpent wrapped around the outer gold circle rim. (c. 1870-80) Beginning with his tail the serpent entwines his body around the black banded agate in gradually wider coils ending with his large head resting upon the top of the agate. Such a wonderful face! The snake has his mouth open and you can see his forked tongue. The serpent is probably the best known and most successful motif drawn from the animal world. Beloved by Queen Victoria, the snake symbolized love, eternity, rebirth, immortality and wisdom. (And you thought it was just a slimy reptile!) This combination – snake and agate – was frequently worn as memorial jewelry. On the back is a circular compartment designed to hold a photo or hair memento under the glass cover. (This compartment can be removed if you choose to enclose a personal memorial.) The original C clasp closure is in place. Regal, yet simple, these snake memorial pieces are highly desirable and a great favorite with collectors. This is a large, majestic brooch that will be hard to top! Condition: Excellent. Size: 1 5/8” diameter, 3/4" deep.	$725.00
MJ099	DAINTY RING OF REMEMBRANCE ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Hair Ring ): Tokens of hair were intimate and personal. “If I should from this world depart / You could still remember me.” Enclosed under glass is a twisted, then coiled plait of medium brown hair. At its center sits a single pearl – a tear of remembrance. This dainty 18KT gold Mourning Ring has a beaded gold frame and a split shank ring band. (c. 1880-90) The shoulders of the band show the curves of architectural revival accented by three small golden orbs at each side. I would say that the style of the band, with its flowing graceful curves, is a segue into the Art Nouveau period. (1895-1910) The current ring size is a 9 1/4. (Easily made smaller) Simple in design, this dainty and feminine Antique Mourning Ring has been lovingly worn. It is a tangible touchstone from the past – an age where grief and remembrance were an integral part of life. Condition: Very Good. Light dust under the cover and bezel setting inside of the beaded border has a few signs of wear – neither visible to the naked eye. A few marks on the back indicate gold testing. Size: Ring size 9 1/4. Oval hair locket compartment 3/8” wide 1/2" high. Ring band at back is 1/8” wide.	$485.00
MJ098	WILLOW WEEP FOR LOSS ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Hardstone Cameo Brooch / Pin): I am pleased to offer this beautifully crafted Victorian Mourning brooch. (c. 1850-60) Purchased from a family estate in New Orleans, I couldn’t resist the blend of materials used to create this petite memorial. The mount is 9KT gold with an ornate, dainty surround of scallops and scrolls. The black enameling is pristine and at its center is a raised gold bezel mounted black and white hardstone cameo, hand carved to depict an ornate urn below a weeping willow tree. The back of this brooch has a glass locket compartment containing a lovely memento display consisting of a graceful hair plume accented by gilt wire and a pearl. Both the original C clasp closure and extended pin stem are in place. Sweetly feminine, this dainty Antique Mourning Brooch exhibits the timeless appeal that makes refined and tasteful jewelry as wearable today as it was over a century ago. Wear this poignant memorial combined with another brooch for double impact – why not three at once? Now that is a confident and meaningful expression of personal style! Condition: Excellent. Size: 1 1/2" wide, 1 1/8” high, cameo is 3/8” wide, 1/2" high, 1/4" deep.	SOLD!
VJ003	STUNNING AND ORNATE ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Brooch ): This exquisite Victorian Brooch has a very ornate frame so typical of the 1850 to 1870 era. A black enamel oval contains a soft reddish blonde hair braid. Because most hair brooches contain brown hair, lighter hair such as this is highly prized by collectors. The frame is gold plated with its original C clasp and extended pin. Condition: Excellent. Size: 1 1/4" wide, 1" high.	SOLD!
VJ001	STRIKING SIZE AND DETAIL ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Brooch ): This is a Victorian oval Hair Mourning Brooch which revolves in order to display both sides. (c. 1860-70) The front face contains palette worked curled brown/auburn hair with an intricate gold thread decoration, all placed on an ivory backing. The hair forms a beautiful pattern with a large crescent partially surrounding a Prince of Wales plume - all in excellent condition. The inner frame surrounding the hair contains a delicately etched decoration. The reverse side contains a black linen backing in a glass covered compartment, probably once containing a photograph of the loved one. The outer frame consists of the broken branch motif and contains 3 etched leaves with curled wire stems. The frame is gold plated and extremely attractive. This Antique Mourning Brooch has its original C clasp with the typical extended pin stem. There is a ring at the top of the back for a safety chain. Large enough to be a "statement" piece! Condition: Very Good. Minor wear to frame and fine scratches on the front glass (not visible to the naked eye), gold thread has fragmented a bit. Size: 2 1/2”high, 2 1/8” wide, 3/8" deep.	$190.00
VJ175	ANOTHER ANGEL GETS HER WINGS ( Victorian Jewelry Ivory Portrait Miniature / Pendant ): Originally purchased in London, this is one of the most haunting and poignant portrait miniatures I have come upon. She is simply an angel. (c. 1900) Hand painted on Ivory, her face is magnificent. Her blue eyes seem to gaze in the distance and her lips are sweetly closed. Fine blonde curls cascade down to her slight shoulders, giving the effect of being surrounded by light. Dainty hands are posed holding white robes draped around her and upon her beautifully painted hands she wears a tiny gold ring on her right middle finger. The symbols of the blue sky background, the wearing of the robes which flow about her like billowing clouds and the arrangement of her hands suggest that she is deceased. Gone but Not Forgotten. An irresistible image that will touch your heart. The portrait is set in an 18KT rose gold frame held with four pins and the back is covered in green velvet. There is a lovely wide bale for a chain. I can not find a signature, but this is clearly the work of a skilled artist. Amazingly, the original antique traveling case with a beige velvet bed and beige silk interior lining survives. The case is made of wood covered by dark brown leather. The leather on the front is cracked and the silk frayed – as shown in the photos. I can only imagine the grieving mother or father who constantly kept this reminder at hand, even when traveling. Not lost but gone before-she is simply an angel. Condition: Portrait and setting are excellent. The case shows the wear of time. Size: Portrait is 2 5/8” high, 2” wide, 1/4” deep.	$1500.00
MJ096	TIMELESS EXPRESSION ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Hand Brooch / Pin ): I am pleased to offer this charming example of a Victorian “hand” mourning brooch. (c. 1860-70) This piece, made of Vulcanite, shows a hand of remembrance holding a stem of forget-me-nots. These tiny floral tributes represent the popular sentiments of affection and love. Notice the ruffled cuff and two strand beaded bracelet at the wrist. Hands holding flowers and wreaths were common motifs in Victorian jewelry, lithography and cemetery iconography. The original riveted pin back has a C clasp closure. This Antique Hand Brooch is a sweet and timeless expression of the Victorian passion for hands of love and loss. I wear two hands at a time for a striking visual effect! Condition: Excellent / Very good. A tiny loss at the tip of one leaf not visible to the naked eye. Size: 2” wide, 1 1/8” high, 1/4” deep.	$150.00
MJ093	HOPE FROM HEAVEN ( Georgian Mourning Jewelry Locket / Pendant ): A haunting and prevalent image from the late 18th & early 19th Centuries is that of a woman with an anchor. Dressed in idealized attire of the Grecian style, far from pathetic, she is a female Atlas, bearing a world of grief on her slim shoulders. In this polychrome, painted on ivory, Georgian Locket the woman is leaning on a blue anchor and points up to heaven. (c. 1790) In the background a ship at sea bravely sports a long red pennant and a blue banner waving from the masts tops, along with a large red flag flying from the aft pole. Though nautical in theme, the loss of this loved one may have been from a number of causes. The anchor theme always represents “Hope and Salvation”. Standing on a rocky promontory, this image appears to be beseeching heaven above to return her loved one from the dangers of the sea. I love her little bright yellow shoes and deep blue cloak. The color is so bright that it could have been painted yesterday. This Georgian Antique Locket / Pendant is set in 15KT gold with the original glass covers on both sides. The locket opens from the back and presently has a background of fabric. You could put a photo or a lock of hair under the back cover. The bale swivels from side to side. (The chain is not included.) Most Georgian polychrome painted pieces are pins, so it is refreshing to have a pendant in sturdy, wearable condition. This Antique Mourning Locket / Pendant is a tangible touchstone from the past – an age where grief and remembrance were an integral part of life. Condition: Excellent. Over 200 years have produced some surface scratches and two spots of flaked polychrome at 6 & 8 o’clock. The price reflects these tiny imperfections. Size: Locket and bale 1 7/8” high, 1 1/4” wide, 1/4” deep.	$825.00
MJ092	BLACK & WHITE / JET & PEARLS ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Jet & Pearl Locket / Pendant ): When Queen Victoria lost her beloved Prince Albert and plunged all of her vast realm into mourning, black jewelry was the only jewelry allowed at court. The sympathy of her loyal subjects set a fashion for jet jewelry that lasted for decades. Jet is a form of fossilized coal, the best of which was mined in the seaside town of Whitby. Throughout the middle of the 19th Century, when fashion demanded large jewelry pieces, this hand carved Antique Whitby Jet Locket / Pendant would have been the very height of chic. (c. 1870-80) Intricately carved with a looped scroll surround and a twisted rope edging, the center of the front features an applied silver with a gold wash wreath set with lustrous natural pearls. The pearls, symbolizing tears, are all original and the hand carved work is just wonderful. An easily accessed glazed locket compartment on the back currently holds a piece of fabric, but would be meant for hair, a photo or even a dried flower. The large original fitted bale is attached to the locket with a black metal ring. This is an eye-catching, wearable and extremely collectible Whitby Jet Pendant. A regal piece with style and substance, Jet is always elegant and sophisticated – fit for a Queen! Condition: Excellent. The pearl necklace is not included. Slight signs of wear on bale. A tiny nibble to the back – not visible to the naked eye. Size: Pendant with bale 3” long. Pendant drop alone 2” high, 2 3/4” wide, 5/8” deep.	SOLD!
MJ090	PROMISE OF IMMORTALITY ( Georgian Jewelry Mourning Brooch ): While Heaven was the understood goal of life’s journey, there was a passionate, often repeated, desire not to be forgotten. Women wanted to leave something tangible behind. Hairwork mementos offered the promise of immortality in a very mortal world. This diminutive 14KT gold Georgian hair lace pin tells a story all its own. (c. 1830) The Grecian-style neo-classic frame features a Greek key design executed in black and white enamel. White enamel was used to indicate mourning for a child or a virgin maiden. The brown, tightly plaited hair is set under beveled glass with a raised embellished bezel setting providing a luxurious touch of gold. The back has its original C clasp closure. Georgian jewelry tended to be smaller than Victorian. Much rarer than black enamel, the white enamel provides a dainty and feminine beauty to this petite, delicate brooch. This Antique Mourning Brooch serves as an eternal memorial and is a way to keep precious memories alive. Condition: Excellent. Size: 1” wide, 3/4” high, 1/8” deep.	$435.00
MJ091	BONNIE PRINCE CHARLES II ( Mourning Jewelry Vulcanite & Jet Brooch ): What a striking brooch this is! It is made of Vulcanite with a Jet setting. Vulcanite is an early form of moldable plastic patented in 1864 by Charles Goodyear. (Yes, tires!) Vulcanite is light weight and a deep black that could be highly polished as well as molded. It was used as a substitute for Jet, but also used with Jet as in this lovely piece. (You can feel the Jet setting is cooler against your cheek than the Vulcanite centerpiece.) The back retains its original pin closure and C clasp. The motif of this unusual themed brooch is what drew me to it. The centerpiece is a complex mixture of Oak Leaves, Acorns & Acorn Caps. (c. 1870-80) Oak leaves and acorns are traditional symbols of power, strength, honor and endurance. They are often seen on military tombs to represent victory. A much more interesting fact is that oak leaves symbolize King Charles II. In exile from England, Bonnie Prince Charles climbed into an oak tree and lay hidden among the branches. Some of Cromwell’s soldiers rode directly under the tree. They were so close that he could hear them talking. For a whole day he lay in the oak tree while his pursuers searched fruitlessly for him. Originally a sign of deep mourning, black also became, and remains, “high fashion” jewelry. Don’t pass this Antique story brooch up – it is both historic and dramatic. Condition: Excellent. On minute leaf tip possibly missing. Size: 2” high, 1 ¾” wide, ½” deep.	$350.00
MJ081	MYSTIC PLUMES OF MEMORY ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Brooch / Pin ): From my personal collection I am offering this exceptionally fine and large Victorian Mourning Brooch inscribed “Richard Moiser. Died Feb..y 28, 1859. Aged 73 Years.”. A ttrue example of the “Grand Period” of Victorian jewelry styles this antique hair worked brooch has all of the “bells & whistles”! Consisting of four layers of embellishment, each layer is raised above the other. Executed in jeweler tested 14KT Gold, the bottom layer is raised gold scroll work with black enamel. Above that is another series of four elaborate raised entwined gold motifs that surround the oval of 33 large natural pearls, symbolic of sorrow. At the top under a covered oval are 5 palette-worked “Prince of Wales” hair plumes, joined together with seed pearls and gold wires. The plumes of blonde and brunette are set on a milk glass background. The domed back of the brooch retains its original C clasp and elongated pin stem. (the small ring is for a safety chain.) You can feel the pulse of the 19th Century in this regal and extravagant dimensional brooch. Condition: Excellent. All of the pearls encircling the oval appear original. One of the tiny seed pearls inside is missing. Light dust under the cover – of no consequence in a piece of this age. Size: 2 3/8” wide, 2” high, 1/2” deep. Hair compartment is 1” wide, 7/8” high.	$850.00
MJ080	A CHERISHED GIFT ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Brooch / Pin ): This striated agate Victorian Mourning Brooch is jest perfect for the fashionable brown and green colors favored by fashion this year. The beveled rust colored agate stone is a beautiful contrast for the deep blonde braided hair under the glass cover. (c. 1850-70) The gold plated rim setting features applied decorative motifs at all four compass points. The elongated pin stem and C clasp closure are original to the piece. You can see the rivets that hold the hair compartment from the back. A richly colored and truly lovely Antique Brooch that will look chic on a suit at the office or great on denim. Designer Ralph Lauren has been featuring Scottish and Agate jewelry with his clothing recently. This brooch would make a dazzling duo with MJ077, the milky white brooch of similar design. Condition: Excellent. A tiny ding at 4:00, noted for accuracy. Not visible to the naked eye. Size: 1 ¾” high, 2 ¼” wide. Hair compartment ½” high, 1” wide.	$250.00
MJ077	PLEDGE OF REMEMBRANCE ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Pin / Brooch ): It is a pleasure to offer you this lovely mourning/sentimental Victorian brooch featuring a smooth chalcedony background stone. (c. 1870-80) Chalcedony is a family of minerals that are milky white to bluish in color. The soft radiance and glow of this stone made it suitable for half-mourning. This translucent milky stone makes a beautiful background for the elaborate gold plated center plaque containing finely woven dark brown hair. The hair is bezel set under a beveled celluloid cover. (Celluloid was invented in 1868.) The gold plated setting features engraved ribbon motifs at all four compass points. The back of this Antique Hair Brooch features a C clasp pin back. This is a very feminine and attractive brooch that truly looks well on all colors and can be casual or dressy. It goes very nicely with MJ078, a deep rust striated agate brooch of similar design. Condition: Excellent. A bit of wear to the gold plating. Of no significance in a piece this old. Size: 2 1/4” wide, 1 7/8” high, 1/4” deep. Hair oval is 7/8” wide, 1/2” high.	$335.00
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	Mourning & Sentimental Jewelry
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MUST READ Maureen DeLorme's book, Mourning Art & Jewelry, published April, 2004. This stunning book is the only complete work on Mourning customs and jewelry. Many pieces from my personal collection are featured. (See Reference Books under "Links" for more information.)