Victorian Mourning Jewelry

Judy Jay's

Time Dances By

jjay@timedancesby.com


Phone: 210-690-8454

--Last Updated: 05/01/2008 --


Mourning & Sentimental Jewelry

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** MUST READ **

Maureen DeLorme's book, Mourning Art & Jewelry, published April, 2004. This stunning book is the only complete work on Mourning customs and jewelry. Many pieces from my personal collection are featured. (See Reference Books under "Links" for more information.)
Item: Description: Price:
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MJ053

FORGET-ME-NOT ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Whitby Jet Brooch ): This is an exceptionally lovely and delicate Victorian Whitby Jet Mourning Brooch. (1840-1880) The pale ash blonde hair (not yellow) is woven in a very fine basket weave pattern set inside a beveled glass cover. The oval jet frame has an ornately carved border of forget-me-not flowers and leaves. The frame encircling the hair is low carat gold and the full mount silver backing is unmarked sterling. The extended pin stem closes securely with a C clasp. This brooch, from my personal collection, was purchased from a New York Gold Coast estate. Whitby jet mourning pieces command the highest prices in the market for jet today. They are the finest quality and the most desired by collectors. Author, Maureen DeLorme, has pictured this brooch on page 112 of her beautiful and insightful book “Mourning Art & Jewelry”. You must have this book if you collect mourning jewelry! Condition: Excellent. A few flea bites to the edge, not discernable to the naked eye. Size: 1 7/8” wide, 3/4” high, 1/4” deep. $495.00

MJ070

MORNING GLORY FAREWELL ( Victorian Jewelry Mourning Pendant ): This is a lovely example of a mid-19th Century “In Memory Of” pendant. (c. 1850-70) The scene on the front of this enamel and vermeil (gold wash over silver) pendant depicts an engraved cross wrapped in a ribbon that reads “IN MEMORY OF”. The white enamel flowers are morning glories. In the “Language of Flowers” the morning glory is symbolic of farewell, departure, mortality and the brevity of life - symbolized by the flowers opening and closing in one day. I am certain that this mourning piece was once a locket. At some time in its past the locket was permanently sealed and the original back was replaced with a brass plate, converting this into a memorial pendant. The very affordable price reflects the change from locket to pendant. The look of the piece remains, as always, a touching tribute to the past. Condition: Very good. Enamel work is crisp with no chips. A few light scratches – they are antique, too! The depression on the edge is where the hinge used to be. Size: 1 1/2” high, 1 1/8” wide, 1/4” deep. $150.00
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MJ051

BLACK BRANCHES OF GRIEF ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Jet Brooch ): Jet, as a material with memorial symbolism and one having the power to ward off evil, dates back to the 7th Century. “Tis black and shining, smooth and even light.” The intensity of the black color made jet the perfect stone to reflect the deepest grief. This stunning hand carved Whitby Jet Victorian Mourning Brooch (c. 1850) brings together all of the most prominent symbols of grief. The finest Whitby Jet has been carved in the “broken branch” foliage theme that was favored by the Victorians. There are six tiny pearl “tears” resting on the jet leaves. The central glass oval contains a lock of pale blond hair set in an engraved low carat gold frame. With its C clasp closure and extended pin stem, this is a brooch that delivers the essence of fine Mourning Jewelry that was – and still is – so highly prized. Condition: Excellent. Note: Some of the pearls are probably replacements that match the originals. The tip of one leaf was chipped long ago. Size: 2” wide, 1 1/2” high, 5/8” deep. Hair compartment is 3/4” wide, 5/8” high. $400.00
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MJ063

EXCEPTIONAL ORNATE MEMORIAL ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Brooch ): This lush memorial brooch is ornately set in 10KT gold and embellished with black enamel. (c. 1860) The palette-worked plume and curls are set under beveled glass on a milk glass mounting. Tiny gold wire twists and pearls accent the beautiful hair design. This is a brooch that is feminine and eye catching. The extended Victorian pin stem and C-clasp are in fine condition. There is also a detachable safety chain. This brooch is so pristine that it takes your breath away. All of the elements combine to form the essence of Victorian Mourning jewelry. An outstanding addition to any ladies jewelry box. Condition: Excellent. The fine scratches seen on the back are from some previous owner checking the gold content. Size: 2” wide, 1 5/8” high, 3/8” deep. $450.00
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MJ047

MEMORY HELD DEAR ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Locket ): This is a lovely example of a mid-19th Century “In Memory Of” pendant locket. (c. 1850-70) Lockets such as these typically feature death motifs – urns, garlands, crosses, etc. – on the outside. The scene on the front of this vermeil (gold wash over silver) locket depicts an obelisk and wreath. Very popular with Georgian and Victorian mourners, the obelisk is a pillar of stone built on a square base with sides that taper like a pyramid to a pointed top. An ancient classical design, it represents memory and eternal life. The surrounding wreath of leaves is symbolic of the victory of the deceased and redemption. A lot of meaning in a small space! The black and white enamel work is beautiful and crisp. There is an elaborately engraved design on the back and a cartouche where you can have initials or a date engraved. The inside contains 2 original photographs. One of the celluloid covers and liner is still in place, the other is missing. The locket closes firmly and retains its original bale. Other IMO lockets like from my collection appear on pages 95 & 96 of Maureen DeLorme’s informative book “Mourning Art and Jewelry”. Condition: Excellent. A few scratches to the enamel, but nothing visible to the naked eye. Size: 1 1/2” long (without bale), 1 1/4” wide, 3/8”deep. $395.00
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MJ042

SILKEN STRANDS OF SENTIMENT ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Hair Earrings ): These delicate and lacy Victorian table-worked earrings are in pristine condition. (c. 1860 - 1870) Each earring is made up of 3 tapered and elongated woven brown hair pieces attached to an elaborately engraved 18KT gold plaque. The hair drops are suspended in 2 layers which makes them appear extremely dimensional. The gold findings and pierced ear wires are all original. These earrings may well have been a sentimental token of love and affection, rather than mourning pieces. The rage for sentimental jewelry had risen dramatically after 1850 and was considered by many to be superior to the wearing of metallic jewelry. These are outstanding Victorian hairwork earrings in a very unusual and visually pleasing style. (A pair of earrings something like these appears on page 143 in Jeanenne Bell’s book "Hairwork Jewelry".) Condition: Excellent. Hair drops are large and fully rounded. Size: 2" long from the top of the wire, 3/4" wide. $450.00
Victorian Mourning Jewelry

MJ034

FAMILY HISTORY KEEPSAKE ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Brooch ): "Few things in this weary world are so delightful as keepsakes. How slight a memorial saves a beloved one from oblivion." (Victorian poem A Lock of Hair, author unknown) I have never seen a brooch quite like this before. How contemporary in design and timeless in expression. Enclosed under glass are three different braided colors of hair. (c. 1879 - 1890) Perhaps this is a family history to be passed down from one generation to the next - a valued and sacred heirloom of those gone before. The sleek frame of the brooch is onyx and the window surround and tube hinge pinback are marked 14KT gold. There is a safety slide on the pin stem. Looking at the colors of this hair braid, you can understand why Victorians referred to hairwork as "bright, burnished and glorious". Condition: Excellent. One tiny fleabite to the onyx, not visible to the naked eye. Size: 2 1/2" long, 5/8" high, 1/4" thick. SOLD!

MJ026

TRUE BLUE ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Brooch ): Enamel dominates this striking Mid-Victorian Hair Brooch (1840 - 1860). With such a vibrant cobalt blue guilloche engraved design under the translucent enamel, I would say that this brooch is more likely to be a Sentimental piece, rather than a Mourning Jewelry Memento. A lovely chased high embossed gold scroll mounting surrounds the enamel. Delicate chasing decorates the framed center oval containing braided ash blonde hair under beveled glass. These pieces were most frequently gold-filled or low carat gold. The flat back of this Antique Hair Brooch retains its original C clasp and elongated pin stem. Jewel tone blue is the perfect compliment to your contemporary wardrobe. Something old, something new and remember to add something blue! Condition: Excellent. No enamel damage and no surface cracks or chips to the glass. Small spot of wear on the back side. Size: Total brooch 1 3/4” wide, 1 1/2” high. Hair compartment 1” wide, 5/8” high.

$325.00

 

MJ019

GREEK KEY CLASSIC ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Brooch ): Black enamel delineates the Greek Key border of this elegant Victorian Mourning Brooch. Dating from 1870 to 1890, an exceptionally thick braided knot of brown hair rests under the celluloid covered compartment. A simple wire twist edge surrounds the hair and then the gold-filled bold Greek Key design completes the striking setting. This large neo-classic design is eye catching. The brooch bears its original C clasp and extended pin closure with a ring for a safety chain. Condition: Excellent. A few tiny dots of enamel loss. The hair has a few white dots from age. Size: 2 1/4" wide, 1 7/8" high. $350.00
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MJ020

GEORGIAN LEAVES OF CORAL ( Georgian Mourning Jewelry Pin ): This little pin is a museum quality example of late Georgian (1810 - 1830) sentimental jewelry. The perfect white basketweave hair has a rock crystal cover framed by cabochon cut coral. This miniature oblong pin has 10 prong set exquisitely carved coral leaves - each leaf carved by hand. The language of stones attributed curative and protective powers to coral. These beautiful little pins look wonderful in a group of 3. Setting of low carat gold with the original C clasp and extended pinstem. Tiny in size, large in history. Condition: Excellent. A very slight dent on the back. Size: 3/4" wide, 5/8" high. SOLD!
 

MJ017

SYMBOLS OF SORROW ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Brooch ): To the Victorians, pearls - because of their salt water origins - symbolized tears and were frequently used in mourning jewelry. Rarely, though, were they used so beautifully as they are in this dainty feminine brooch (c. 1870 - 1890). Natural pearls completely encircle the glazed compartment of light brown basket woven hair. Each of the twenty-one full round pearls is individually set in gold wire and edged with a protective gold rim so that they are visible from the back as well as the front. The 9KT gold brooch is entirely original from the pearls to the C clasp closure and has been gently worn. There is only a tiny interior chip in its glass and a small ding in the gold edge to show for its age. A pretty, light brooch that is sweetly decorative - no heavy black enamel used here. Condition: Excellent. Size: 1 1/8" diameter. Hair compartment is 3/4" diameter.

SOLD!

Victorian Mourning Jewelry

MJ012

SWEETHEART’S NOSEGAY ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Brooch ): Amazing skill and artistry went into the creation of this lovely hair work bouquet of flowers brooch, c 1840 - 1870. Resting on an oval plaque of mother-of-pearl, the flowers (including a rose and four pansies) are formed of various shades of dark blonde and light brown hair. They are trimmed with bits of gold wire and several sizes of pearls. Probably a token of affection, the flowers symbolize love, devotion and thoughts in the sentimental Victorian language of flowers. They are set under beveled glass in a classic gold filled frame work featuring rope twist wires and dimensionally engraved foliate accents at the top and bottom of the setting. The original C clasp and elongated pin back are in perfect working order. Condition: Excellent. One pearl has shifted position. 1 3/4" high, 1 1/2" wide. $550.00
Victorian Mourning Jewelry

MJ036

A SPIRITUAL MEMORIAL OF DEVOTION ( Victorian Mourning Hair Cross Pin / Pendant): With the swell of spiritual fervor influencing the Victorian view of life, the inevitability of death and the philosophy of dust to dust, only one’s hair would last beyond the grave. Keeping a memorial made of hair was the natural extension of the act of caring. This exceptional Antique Hair Cross (c. 1860 - 1880) is made of brown table worked hair tightly woven over a hard core. The ends are finished with beautifully etched jeweler tested 14KT gold caps. The center band has a 14KT gold plaque where initials could be added. The safety catch pin back was perhaps a total addition to what I think was probably originally a pendant only. Now it does it all. An exceptionally fine hair cross. Condition: Excellent. No hair loss or damage. Pristine! Size: 2 1/2” high, 1 3/4” wide, 1/4” thick. $350.00
Victorian Mourning Jewelry

MJ004

GOLDEN LOCKS ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Brooch ): This brooch is so pristine that it appears to be waiting for its owner to arrive. It looks like it was made only yesterday! This beautiful Victorian piece has blonde palette-worked hair curls on an ivory backing. It is accented with gold wire and delicate turquoise. The use of turquoise instead of pearls is very unusual and the touch of color is so feminine. The brooch is ca 1850 - 80 and set in a mounting of interlocking pinchbeck (gold filled) rings. The gold is very yellow, almost a gilt look. There is a fabric backing and an extended pin with a C clasp. Condition: Excellent. 2" wide, 1 3/4" high, 1/4" deep. $325.00

MJ006

A FLOWER GARDEN FOR MOTHER ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Brooch ): This exquisite Oval Victorian Mourning Brooch pays elaborate tribute to “Mother”. An entire wreath of 3-dimensional forget-me-nots and foliage encircle the single word “Mother”. A beautiful palette-worked floral tribute with even the name spelled out in hair. The work is done on a mother-of-pearl background which produces a glistening rainbow effect. A single seed pearl “tear” rests at the bottom. The hairwork compartment is covered with beveled glass. The reverse is engraved “K. Shultz” in script. The gold-filled bezel setting curves down to a twisted wire edge. There is a C clasp closure, pin hinge is a replacement. The small ring at the bottom probably held a safety chain at one time. An Antique Brooch of sweet sentiment and beautiful decorative appeal. Condition: Excellent. One of the tiny flowers has come unglued and moves around the compartment. Anywhere it lands, it still looks beautiful since the entire blossom moves. Size: 1 3/4” wide, 1 3/8” high. SOLD!
 

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