Time Dances By - Mourning & Sentimental Jewelry

Item:	Description:	Price:
MJ077	PLEDGE OF REMEMBRANCE ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Pin / Brooch ): It is a pleasure to offer you this lovely mourning/sentimental Victorian brooch featuring a smooth chalcedony background stone. (c. 1870-80) Chalcedony is a family of minerals that are milky white to bluish in color. The soft radiance and glow of this stone made it suitable for half-mourning. This translucent milky stone makes a beautiful background for the elaborate gold plated center plaque containing finely woven dark brown hair. The hair is bezel set under a beveled celluloid cover. (Celluloid was invented in 1868.) The gold plated setting features engraved ribbon motifs at all four compass points. The back of this Antique Hair Brooch features a C clasp pin back. This is a very feminine and attractive brooch that truly looks well on all colors and can be casual or dressy. It goes very nicely with MJ078, a deep rust striated agate brooch of similar design. Condition: Excellent. A bit of wear to the gold plating. Of no significance in a piece this old. Size: 2 1/4” wide, 1 7/8” high, 1/4” deep. Hair oval is 7/8” wide, 1/2” high.	$335.00
MJ080	A CHERISHED GIFT ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Brooch / Pin ): This striated agate Victorian Mourning Brooch is jest perfect for the fashionable brown and green colors favored by fashion this year. The beveled rust colored agate stone is a beautiful contrast for the deep blonde braided hair under the glass cover. (c. 1850-70) The gold plated rim setting features applied decorative motifs at all four compass points. The elongated pin stem and C clasp closure are original to the piece. You can see the rivets that hold the hair compartment from the back. A richly colored and truly lovely Antique Brooch that will look chic on a suit at the office or great on denim. Designer Ralph Lauren has been featuring Scottish and Agate jewelry with his clothing recently. This brooch would make a dazzling duo with MJ077, the milky white brooch of similar design. Condition: Excellent. A tiny ding at 4:00, noted for accuracy. Not visible to the naked eye. Size: 1 ¾” high, 2 ¼” wide. Hair compartment ½” high, 1” wide.	$250.00
MJ061	THE HOPE OF SALVATION ( Georgian Mourning Jewelry Locket / Pendant ): A haunting and prevalent image from the late 18^th & early 19^th Centuries is that of a woman with an anchor. Dressed in idealized attire of the Grecian style, far from pathetic, she is a female Atlas, bearing a world of grief on her slim shoulders. In this polychrome, painted on ivory, Georgian Locket the woman is leaning on a blue anchor and points up to heaven. (c. 1790) In the background a ship at sea bravely sports a red flag and red and blue banners wave from the masts. Though nautical in theme, the loss of this loved one may have been from a number of causes. The anchor theme always represents “Hope and Salvation”. The border surrounding the Ivory Miniature is painted in a technique known as verre églomisé – reverse painting on glass. In other words you take the piece of beveled glass, turn it over and paint on the back. Once you turn it to the front you have an image in reverse. The decorative border is painted in gold and black enamel with a pale pink surround. The locket opens from the bottom and contains a piece of purple silk. You could put a photo or a lock of hair between the fabric and the back cover. The metal appears to be rose gold plated. The large bale is mounted on a hinge. This Antique Mourning Locket is a tangible touchstone from the past – an age where grief and remembrance were an integral part of life. Condition: Excellent. Over 200 years have produced some surface scratches and a dot of flaked enamel. There is a scratch on the ground at the bottom of the woman’s foot. A good sized locket that snaps closed tightly. Size: 1 1/2” diameter, hangs 2” including the bale.	$1100.00
MJ088	SWEET & DAINTY FLORAL TRIBUTE ( Victorian Jewelry Mourning / Sentimental Brooch ): It is a pleasure to offer you this lovely Victorian Sentimental Brooch featuring a smooth chalcedony background stone. (c. 1870-80) Chalcedony is a family of minerals that is milky white to bluish in color. On top of the milky white stone, sits a hand-carved green agate Hardstone Cameo of a single Forget-Me-Not. The flower is framed by an extravagantly embellished 10KT gold oval setting. A three tiered brooch of enduring appeal, the engraved outer decorative frame tests as 10 KT gold as well. On the back you can see the round rivets that affix the Cameo to the chalcedony. The pin stem is a replacement and there is a tiny ring for a safety chain. Note that the pin stem has the closure at the top if you wear the flower straight up. In the trans-illuminated photos you can see the lovely milkish swirls in the stone. Sweetly feminine, this dainty Antique Sentimental Brooch exhibits a refined timeless appeal that makes it as wearable today as it was a century and a half ago. Condition: Excellent. No flaw to the flower carving. It was origionally carved that way. Size: 1 3/4” high, 1 5/8” wide, 3/8” deep. Floral Cameo & setting is 3/4” high, 5/8” wide.	$275.00
VJ021	BUCKLED UP BEAUTY ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Brooch ): Terrific, low carat gold, Victorian swivel brooch. The basket weave hair design contains two colors of light hair woven to perfection. The twisted wire setting is accented by four sets of "buckles". The back of the swivel contains black fabric. The C-clasp appears original, but I think that the pin is a replacement piece. The glass is in excellent condition - this is a real beauty for your collection or a great buy for a new collector. Condition: Excellent. A few solder repairs on back. The entire piece is 2" high by 1 3/4" wide. The hair swivel portion is 1 1/2" by 1 1/4".	SOLD!
MJ051	BLACK BRANCHES OF GRIEF ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Jet Brooch ): Jet, as a material with memorial symbolism and one having the power to ward off evil, dates back to the 7^th Century. “Tis black and shining, smooth and even light.” The intensity of the black color made jet the perfect stone to reflect the deepest grief. This stunning hand carved Whitby Jet Victorian Mourning Brooch (c. 1850) brings together all of the most prominent symbols of grief. The finest Whitby Jet has been carved in the “broken branch” foliage theme that was favored by the Victorians. There are six tiny pearl “tears” resting on the jet leaves. The central glass oval contains a lock of pale blond hair set in an engraved low carat gold frame. With its C clasp closure and extended pin stem, this is a brooch that delivers the essence of fine Mourning Jewelry that was – and still is – so highly prized. Condition: Excellent. Note: Some of the pearls are probably replacements that match the originals. The tip of one leaf was chipped long ago. Size: 2” wide, 1 1/2” high, 5/8” deep. Hair compartment is 3/4” wide, 5/8” high.	$400.00
MJ026	TRUE BLUE ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Brooch ): Enamel dominates this striking Mid-Victorian Hair Brooch (1840 - 1860). With such a vibrant cobalt blue guilloche engraved design under the translucent enamel, I would say that this brooch is more likely to be a Sentimental piece, rather than a Mourning Jewelry Memento. A lovely chased high embossed gold scroll mounting surrounds the enamel. Delicate chasing decorates the framed center oval containing braided ash blonde hair under beveled glass. These pieces were most frequently gold-filled or low carat gold. The flat back of this Antique Hair Brooch retains its original C clasp and elongated pin stem. Jewel tone blue is the perfect compliment to your contemporary wardrobe. Something old, something new and remember to add something blue! Condition: Excellent. No enamel damage and no surface cracks or chips to the glass. Small spot of wear on the back side. Size: Total brooch 1 3/4” wide, 1 1/2” high. Hair compartment 1” wide, 5/8” high.	$325.00
MJ019	GREEK KEY CLASSIC ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Brooch ): Black enamel delineates the Greek Key border of this elegant Victorian Mourning Brooch. Dating from 1870 to 1890, an exceptionally thick braided knot of brown hair rests under the celluloid covered compartment. A simple wire twist edge surrounds the hair and then the gold-filled bold Greek Key design completes the striking setting. This large neo-classic design is eye catching. The brooch bears its original C clasp and extended pin closure with a ring for a safety chain. Condition: Excellent. A few tiny dots of enamel loss. The hair has a few white dots from age. Size: 2 1/4" wide, 1 7/8" high.	$350.00
MJ099	DAINTY RING OF REMEMBRANCE ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Hair Ring ): Tokens of hair were intimate and personal. “If I should from this world depart / You could still remember me.” Enclosed under glass is a twisted, then coiled plait of medium brown hair. At its center sits a single pearl – a tear of remembrance. This dainty 18KT gold Mourning Ring has a beaded gold frame and a split shank ring band. (c. 1880-90) The shoulders of the band show the curves of architectural revival accented by three small golden orbs at each side. I would say that the style of the band, with its flowing graceful curves, is a segue into the Art Nouveau period. (1895-1910) The current ring size is a 9 1/4. (Easily made smaller) Simple in design, this dainty and feminine Antique Mourning Ring has been lovingly worn. It is a tangible touchstone from the past – an age where grief and remembrance were an integral part of life. Condition: Very Good. Light dust under the cover and bezel setting inside of the beaded border has a few signs of wear – neither visible to the naked eye. A few marks on the back indicate gold testing. Size: Ring size 9 1/4. Oval hair locket compartment 3/8” wide 1/2" high. Ring band at back is 1/8” wide.	SOLD!
MJ036	A SPIRITUAL MEMORIAL OF DEVOTION ( Victorian Mourning Hair Cross Pin / Pendant): With the swell of spiritual fervor influencing the Victorian view of life, the inevitability of death and the philosophy of dust to dust, only one’s hair would last beyond the grave. Keeping a memorial made of hair was the natural extension of the act of caring. This exceptional Antique Hair Cross (c. 1860 - 1880) is made of brown table worked hair tightly woven over a hard core. The ends are finished with beautifully etched jeweler tested 14KT gold caps. The center band has a 14KT gold plaque where initials could be added. The safety catch pin back was perhaps a total addition to what I think was probably originally a pendant only. Now it does it all. An exceptionally fine hair cross. Condition: Excellent. No hair loss or damage. Pristine! Size: 2 1/2” high, 1 3/4” wide, 1/4” thick.	SOLD!
MJ094	DAINTY BASKETWEAVE KEEPSAKE ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Hair Ring ): “Few things in this weary world are so delightful as keepsakes. How slight a memorial saves a beloved one from oblivion.” (A Victorian poem A Lock of Hair, author unknown.) This beautiful dainty Victorian Mourning Ring was originally a memorial pin/brooch. The back of the pin is dated “1846”. (The “846” are easily seen in photo. The rest of the inscription can not be read.) At some point in its history this delicate antique lace pin was made into a ring. A jeweler worked the design on the shoulders of the ring band - marked “750” (18KT) - to match the original gold setting motif of leaf, scroll and ball surrounding the hair compartment. I am certain that this was an early alteration since the mark “750” hasn’t been used since the 1800’s. Very light brown, perhaps ash blonde hair has been woven and placed under glass. Currently a ring size 7 ¼, this ring could be made larger, but the proportions are perfect as it is. This is a pretty and petite ring to wear, reminding us of a time when “I have a piece of thee” provided loving comfort. Condition: Excellent. The basketweave hairwork is in perfect order. Difficult to photograph because the glass makes the hair appear distorted. Size: Setting 1 1/8” high, 5/8” wide, 1/4” deep. Ring band is 1/4” wide and is a ring size 7 ¼.	SOLD!
MJ052	POIGNANT PASSING ( Georgian Mourning Jewelry Pendant ): A story of sadness is evident in this touching mid-Georgian (1782) sepia on ivory pendant. The scene depicts a grief stricken woman in classical dress leaning over an urn and plinth, her shoulders heavy with grief. A delicate veil covers her head but cannot conceal her heartfelt sorrow. A weeping willow tree hangs gently over the mournful scene. Portions of the ground, tree trunk and hanging willow branches are painted with dissolved hair. The image is crisp and clear. The delicate 9KT marquise shaped pendant has a fine gold bead work edging. Inscribed on the back are the words “John Smith, Died August 24, 1782, Aged 54 years”. This pendant was originally a brooch, but has been cleverly converted into a hinged bale pendant at some point in its long history. This is a captivating addition to any collection of mourning jewelry. Condition: Excellent. There are the usual fine surface scratches to the crystal that are not visible to the naked eye. There is a small crack in the crystal at the bottom of the V shape. Since it is over the ground, it does not detract from the piece. The price reflects these tiny signs of age and loving wear. Size: 1 1/2” high (minus bale), 7/8” wide.	SOLD!
MJ034	FAMILY HISTORY KEEPSAKE ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Brooch ): "Few things in this weary world are so delightful as keepsakes. How slight a memorial saves a beloved one from oblivion." (Victorian poem A Lock of Hair, author unknown) I have never seen a brooch quite like this before. How contemporary in design and timeless in expression. Enclosed under glass are three different braided colors of hair. (c. 1879 - 1890) Perhaps this is a family history to be passed down from one generation to the next - a valued and sacred heirloom of those gone before. The sleek frame of the brooch is onyx and the window surround and tube hinge pinback are marked 14KT gold. There is a safety slide on the pin stem. Looking at the colors of this hair braid, you can understand why Victorians referred to hairwork as "bright, burnished and glorious". Condition: Excellent. One tiny fleabite to the onyx, not visible to the naked eye. Size: 2 1/2" long, 5/8" high, 1/4" thick.	SOLD!
MJ020	GEORGIAN LEAVES OF CORAL ( Georgian Mourning Jewelry Pin ): This little pin is a museum quality example of late Georgian (1810 - 1830) sentimental jewelry. The perfect white basketweave hair has a rock crystal cover framed by cabochon cut coral. This miniature oblong pin has 10 prong set exquisitely carved coral leaves - each leaf carved by hand. The language of stones attributed curative and protective powers to coral. These beautiful little pins look wonderful in a group of 3. Setting of low carat gold with the original C clasp and extended pinstem. Tiny in size, large in history. Condition: Excellent. A very slight dent on the back. Size: 3/4" wide, 5/8" high.	SOLD!
MJ004	GOLDEN LOCKS ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Brooch ): This brooch is so pristine that it appears to be waiting for its owner to arrive. It looks like it was made only yesterday! This beautiful Victorian piece has blonde palette-worked hair curls on an ivory backing. It is accented with gold wire and delicate turquoise. The use of turquoise instead of pearls is very unusual and the touch of color is so feminine. The brooch is ca 1850 - 80 and set in a mounting of interlocking pinchbeck (gold filled) rings. The gold is very yellow, almost a gilt look. There is a fabric backing and an extended pin with a C clasp. Condition: Excellent. 2" wide, 1 3/4" high, 1/4" deep.	SOLD!
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	Mourning & Sentimental Jewelry
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MUST READ Maureen DeLorme's book, Mourning Art & Jewelry, published April, 2004. This stunning book is the only complete work on Mourning customs and jewelry. Many pieces from my personal collection are featured. (See Reference Books under "Links" for more information.)