Time Dances By - Mourning & Sentimental Jewelry

Item:	Description:	Price:
MJ048	HAIRWORK HOPE ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Pin / Pendant ): Although we now associate anchors with ships, the Victorians used them as a symbol of hope and steadfastness. A popular set of charms including Faith (the cross), Hope (the anchor) and Charity (a heart). Early Christians under persecution used the anchor form as a disguised cross. This dainty charm is table-worked hair formed over a hard core. (c. 1850-80) The anchor accents and chain are 14KT gold and the fleur-de-lis watch pin it hangs from is gold-filled. You can remove the anchor and wear it on a chain if you prefer. The watch pin has a C clasp closure and a large hook that can be used for lockets or other small pendants. You can have your initials engraved on the cartouche at the center. These small charms are highly collectable. Condition: Excellent. Hair is tight and undamaged. Size: Charm alone 1 1/2” long, 7/8” wide. Watch pin and charm 2 1/2” long.	SOLD!
VJ021	BUCKLED UP BEAUTY ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Brooch ): Terrific, low carat gold, Victorian swivel brooch. The basket weave hair design contains two colors of light hair woven to perfection. The twisted wire setting is accented by four sets of "buckles". The back of the swivel contains black fabric. The C-clasp appears original, but I think that the pin is a replacement piece. The glass is in excellent condition - this is a real beauty for your collection or a great buy for a new collector. Condition: Excellent. A few solder repairs on back. The entire piece is 2" high by 1 3/4" wide. The hair swivel portion is 1 1/2" by 1 1/4".	$300.00
MJ001	"IN MEMORY OF" A LOVED ONE ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Brooch ): A grand example of Mid-Victorian mourning jewelry. This gold-filled oval Victorian Brooch contains a palette-worked hair curl and floral motif on a milk glass background under beveled glass. Victorians were much enamored by the "language of flowers" so the use of a forget-me-not is both meaningful and appropriate for a mourning piece. The complex stacked mounting features an elaborate curved, scalloped bottom layer, a hollow gold-filled center piece with "In Memory Of" on a black enamel background and a double surround containing the Hair Work. The back has a long pin and C clasp. There is still a ring for a safety chain. An elaborate brooch with all the bells and whistles, c. 1850-80. Condition: Excellent. There is some solder repair work on the back setting and some wear to the gold fill back. 2 1/2" wide, 2" high, 1/2" thick.	$400.00
VJ017	GARNETS & GOLD & HAIR = PURE VICTORIAN ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Garnet Brooch ): With one brooch you can have it all! This is a stunningly ornate English Victorian brooch which tests 18KT gold. The front has faceted golden ovals surrounded with bright cut engraved decoration. The center has 7 rhodolite garnets (a more purple hue) which were typically used in Victorian jewelry of this period, c. 1880. The back of the brooch contains a hair locket with the braided hair still in place. Many of these pieces have had the hair removed, so it is especially nice to find an intact piece. The C clasp and pin hinge are original, the pin stem may be a replacement. Condition: Excellent. A few tiny spots of wear on the gold. All of the table cut garnets are original. Size: 1 1/2” in diameter.	ON HOLD!
MJ029	WITH LOVING WISHES ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Cameo Bracelet ): Victorian hairwork was frequently given as a sentimental token and keepsake. This feminine bracelet from my personal collection was a gift from a loving Aunt to her niece. (c. 1840 - 1870) The main portion of the bracelet is comprised of 4 rows of 2 color tubular, table-worked hair that has been braided together. The box clasp and findings are engraved rose gold. The back of the clasp reads "With Loving Wishes from Aunt and Conrad" engraved in beautiful script. The small shell cameo is raised in a bezel setting. This pretty bracelet was no doubt highly prized by the lucky young lady who received it and cared for it so carefully. Will fit a 6" wrist or smaller. Condition: Excellent. Slight wear on the back of the clasp, but not visible. Handle this piece by the clasp, not the hair, to maintain its fine condition. Size: 6 1/2" long, Braided Hair 1" wide, Cameo Clasp 1" long & 7/8" wide.	$200.00
VJ001	STRIKING SIZE AND DETAIL ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Brooch ): Victorian revolving style oval hair mourning brooch. Front face contains palette worked curled brown hair with gold thread decoration on ivory backing. The pinchbeck frame is in the form of entwined and engraved twigs. The reverse side contains a black linen backing. Loop for safety chain. Condition: Good. Bottom of frame leaf motif is missing, but it still looks natural this way. Minor wear to frame and glass, gold thread has fragmented a bit. Size: 2 1/2” by 2 1/8”.	$200.00
VJ011	TABLE-WORKED BOW MOTIF ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Brooch ): This open table-worked bow brooch has double tubular loops of dark brown hair. The bow is beautifully proportioned and the tubular work is fully rounded. Two dangle drops are complete with gold caps. The center gold knot-shaped plaque is intricately engraved. Back view shows C clasp with thick findings. Engraved sentiment on back mount reads "Mother", "July 20, 1867". Condition: Excellent. No flaws in hair. All original findings are intact. 2 1/2" wide, 1 3/4" high.	$350.00
VJ003	STUNNING AND ORNATE ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Brooch ): This exquisite Victorian brooch has a very ornate frame so typical of the 1860 to 1890 era. A black enamel oval contains a soft reddish blonde hair braid, perhaps Rolled Gold with a "c" clasp. Condition: wonderful. 1" by 1 1/4".	$200.00
VJ027	THE ROMANCE OF A HAIRWORK NECKLACE ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Necklace ): This delicate Victorian necklace (1850 - 80) is made of 22 open-weave table-worked balls and 20 gilt bead spacers. In the center of the necklace is a thin rod holding a tear drop dangle with gold caps at both ends of the drop. The findings appear to be gold-filled. The catch is a slotted tube into which a V spring catch is inserted. When was the last time you saw a piece like this with no fraying or loss of hair? Condition: Very good. Center cord is detached so beads have some loss of shape. One hair bead adjoining the clasp is glued. This is the area that requires handling to fasten the clasp so the glue only makes it more durable. 18" long when unclasped. Hair drop 1".	$300.00
MJ005	FORGET-ME-NOT ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Brooch ): This dainty Victorian Mourning Brooch is striking in the simplicity of its single forget-me-not floral motif. Palette-worked on milk glass, this floral stem is done with several colors of hair. The setting is gold-filled with wire twists at the outer edge and at the base of the bevel. At 3 and 9 o’clock are matching decorative floral motifs. The back is engraved "J. Chelf". There is an extended pin stem and a C clasp that may be a replacement. A sweet change from woven hair and "In Memory Of" pieces. There is a lightness about this brooch. Condition: Very Good. A thin strip of replacement gold runs along the top edge of the setting at the bezel edge. A few surface scratches on the cover. 2 3/4" wide, 1 3/8" high.	$300.00
MJ073	DANCING HAIR LOOPS ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Earrings ): These marvelous Victorian Hair Earrings (c. 1850) are highly desirable because you can actually wear them! The dark brown table-worked hair has been formed into loops that are coated with a fixative to keep the hair firm. They are very durable and should remain in perfect condition. (The loops are flexible, but not soft.) You can handle them easily and wear them as often as you like. The shepard’s hook ear wires are original. These light weight dangling “ear bobs” dance delightfully every time you move your head. Condition: Excellent. No damage or fraying. Size: Earrings hang 1 7/8” long. Hair loops are 1” wide.	SOLD!
MJ075	I HAVE A PIECE OF THEE ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Ring ): From my personal collection – a 9/10KT rose gold ring unusual in its simplicity. It displays hair feathers and curls called “Prince of Wales” plumes and dates c. 1850-60. The hair is accented with gold wire twists and 3 tiny half pearls. With no distinct clues to mourning, it could also be a sentimental piece exchanged between friends or family members. If it is a mourning ring, it reminds me of a letter written in the mid-Victorian era that shares the feelings of Victorian women who received such tokens. “Dear Laura has given us each a ring of our Dorothea’s hair. I am so fond of it. We chose a ring – and I am glad for 3 reasons. First because always wearing it helps me to think of her; 2nd because a ring seems to be a bond of love; 3rd being round a circle reminds one how one’s love and communion with her may and will last forever.” These undamaged plumes of pale blond and red hair rest under a glass cover. The simple bezel setting acts as a frame for the dainty plume work. The ring shank narrows at the back and the inside of the ring is curved so that it could not be more comfortable. It is a ring size 8. A very pleasing and wearable ring, reminding us of a time when “I have a piece of thee” provided loving comfort. Condition: Excellent. Some light scratches on the glass – they are antique, too. There was once an inscription, but it is too worn to read. Size: Hair portion of ring face is 1 1/2” high, 7/8” wide. Ring shank narrows to 1/8” at back. Ring size 8.	SOLD!
MJ069	TOGETHER FOREVER ( Georgian Mourning Jewelry Painted Ivory Pendant / Picture ): This richly symbolic French Georgian Sentimental piece is filled with allusions of marital love. (c. 1822) Definitely a wedding piece which was “given in friendship” (Donnée par lámitié) to the couple at their wedding. The scene is painted on ivory with sepia ink and embellished with hair. A light polychrome wash bathes the background with sky blue and pink. At the center a winged cherub holds a wreath over the two united hearts crowning their love. His other hand holds an arrow poised to pierce the lover’s hearts. The figure of the cherub is outlined in gold. The plinth itself is 3 dimensional with the cipher initials “LM” entwined on an ivory plaque announcing their love for all to see. Notice the two lovebirds on the right with a string connecting them together. The dimensional tree of life, trunk and leaves made of hair, bends gracefully over the scene as if to enfold the lovers. The ground is composed of hair and sepia - leaning against the tree there is a tablet that reads “Donnée par lámitié”. This charming miniature work of art is framed in gilt metal. The back is covered by a pink advertising paper and is hand dated 1822. I would wear this painting as a pendant by simply adding a bale to the existing ring. It can, of course, be hung as a portrait miniature. A touchingly romantic image of enduring appeal, this piece speaks to both your heart and eye. Condition: Excellent. Expected wear to gilt frame. There is a blurred word over the two hearts. No loose pieces. Size: 3” in diameter, 1/4” deep.	SOLD!
MJ072	SENTIMENTAL SYMBOLIC SERPENT ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Snake Brooch ): The snake (or serpent) was a popular Victorian romantic image. This stunning and sensuous large table worked hair snake brooch (c. 1850-70) is made over a hard core to form all of the coils and loops involved in the body. Notice how the texture of the light brown woven hair resembles snake scales. The Sterling Silver head and tail are ornately engraved and embossed with life-like detailing and its eyes are set with tiny garnets. Fortunately, the snake still retains the little decorated silver heart drop in its mouth. This snake brooch, synonymous with Victorian passion, was probably a sentimental lover’s gift, rather than a mourning piece. Prince Albert designed Queen Victoria’s betrothal ring in the form of a snake with its tail in its mouth – symbolic of everlasting love. The snake also symbolized eternity, guardian spirit and wisdom. The pin-back retains its original C clasp and closes securely. The multiple textures and fine details of this large snake brooch exhibit a quality that is quite remarkable. This is a highly desirable collector’s trophy. Condition: Excellent. No hair damage at all. Size: 2” long, 1 1/4” high, almost 3/4” deep.	SOLD!
MJ068	TWO HEARTS OF ONE MIND ( Georgian Mourning Jewelry Painted Ivory Pendant ): A true Georgian treasure! (c. 1790-1810) This exceptional 10 KT Rose Gold Georgian Pendant is actually an example of sentimental jewelry, not associated with Mourning at all. An elaborate design, painted with sepia on ivory, this navette shaped miniature work of art commemorates “True Love”. A dove holds a ribbon in its beak from which two hearts are suspended. Both hearts have been pierced by the arrow of love. Below the hearts are the initials “EB” worked in a decorative script. Beneath the initials is a banner that reads “One Mind”. Two Hearts – One Mind, an enduring expression of timeless love. The dainty 10 KT Rose Gold setting features lovely scalloped engraving. The back is plain with a reinforced bale and ring. The artwork is outstanding and the entire antique pendant is superbly crafted and sweetly feminine. This diminutive image, so rich in symbolism, is unlike any design I have owned before. Add this treasure to your collection. Condition: Excellent. A tiny chip to the glass at 1 o’clock. Perfectly acceptable in view of its age. It is hidden in the bird’s wing. Size: 1 1/4” high, 3/4” wide.	SOLD!
MJ060	HEAVEN REJOICES ( Georgian Jewelry Mourning Pendant & Portrait Miniature ): This is a splendid example of Georgian Mourning Jewelry at its finest. An expressive painted sepia and dissolved hair on ivory memorial pendant dating from 1785. The front painting depicts a tomb comprised of an urn, a pointed obelisk and the plinth that they rest upon. The plinth is inscribed “Affection Weeps, Heaven Rejoices”. At the right a prayerful woman in classical dress gazes sadly at the memorial. To the left a delicate tree with hanging branches enfolds the scene tenderly. The scene is full of the pathos and romanticism seen in 18^th Century Antique Mourning Jewelry. The painting is extremely fine and detailed. The urn and base are enhanced by bead and wire twists in both yellow gold and rose gold. Three rows of tiny seed pearls boarder the top and bottom of the plinth. Both the plinth and obelisk of this outstanding piece are significantly elevated, giving it 3 dimensions. The entire rose gold marquise shaped pendant is edged in a design of royal blue and white enamel; white in this case symbolizing the loss of an elderly man and the blue indicating that this was a mourning piece belonging to a member of the aristocracy (English, I believe.) The reverse side holds an additional treasure, a polychrome colored miniature of a pensive beloved gentleman. What expressive eyes! The miniature is signed “Read” and dated “1785”. The rose gold frame bears a lightly etched museum acquisition number that reads “6401DD”. This memorial was evidently culled from a museum collection. Both sides of the pendant have convex rock crystal covers. This beautiful piece of mourning jewelry is so symbolic of a time when death and those departed were kept near to the heart. I have had this memorial pendant in my personal collection for over 20 years, its value enhance by having both the memorial scene and the dated portrait miniature. Condition: Excellent. A few very tiny invisible scratches to the rock crystal. Two tiny pearls have come loose at some point in its long history. I have added the bale to the pendant ring. Size: 2” high, 1 1/4” wide, 1/4” deep. Larger and more substantial than the average Georgian memorial.	SOLD!
MJ044	LOST IN TIME ( Georgian Mourning Jewelry Ring ): This is a splendid example of Georgian Mourning Jewelry at its finest. Dating from 1787, this memorial ring depicts an elaborately garlanded urn painted in sepia and dissolved hair on ivory. There is a delicate weeping willow above the urn, its branches falling around the monument. The image is extremely crisp, clear and vivid, still retaining its timeless message. The painted miniature is covered with rock crystal and set in a simple 14/15 carat gold bezel. The tapered sides of the shank are delicately engraved. The inscription on the reverse reads: “Ann Piper, Ob 7 Jan: 9(?), 1787, at 33”. A touching token of sentiment that was probably worn by her mother or sister in her remembrance. A beautiful ring and evocative relic of lives long past. Ring is a size 4 3/4. A wonderful pinky ring. Condition: Excellent. Some fine surface scratches seen only under magnification. Size: 1 1/4” high, 3/4” wide.	SOLD!
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	Mourning & Sentimental Jewelry
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MUST READ Maureen DeLorme's book, Mourning Art & Jewelry, published April, 2004. This stunning book is the only complete work on Mourning customs and jewelry. Many pieces from my personal collection are featured. (See Reference Books under "Links" for more information.)