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MJ092 |
BLACK & WHITE / JET & PEARLS ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Jet & Pearl
Locket / Pendant ): When Queen Victoria lost her beloved Prince
Albert and plunged all of her vast realm into mourning, black jewelry
was the only jewelry allowed at court. The sympathy of her loyal
subjects set a fashion for jet jewelry that lasted for decades. Jet is a
form of fossilized coal, the best of which was mined in the seaside town
of Whitby. Throughout the middle of the 19th Century, when fashion
demanded large jewelry pieces, this hand carved Antique Whitby Jet
Locket / Pendant would have been the very height of chic. (c. 1870-80)
Intricately carved with a looped scroll surround and a twisted rope
edging, the center of the front features an applied silver with a gold
wash wreath set with lustrous natural pearls. The pearls, symbolizing
tears, are all original and the hand carved work is just wonderful. An
easily accessed glazed locket compartment on the back currently holds a
piece of fabric, but would be meant for hair, a photo or even a dried
flower. The large original fitted bale is attached to the locket with a
black metal ring. This is an eye-catching, wearable and extremely
collectible Whitby Jet Pendant. A regal piece with style and substance,
Jet is always elegant and sophisticated – fit for a Queen!
Condition: Excellent. The pearl necklace is not included. Slight signs
of wear on bale. A tiny nibble to the back – not visible to the naked
eye.
Size: Pendant with bale 3” long. Pendant drop alone 2” high, 2 3/4”
wide, 5/8” deep.
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SOLD! |

MJ100 |
BOUQUETS OF LOVE ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Hair Earrings ):
These breathtaking French 18K Rose Gold Victorian pierced earrings are a
collectors dream! Amazing skill and artistry went into the creation of
these beautiful hair work bouquets of love. (c. 1850-60) Resting on oval
plaques of milk glass, brunette pansies and forget-me-nots with long
stems and leaves have been painstakingly palette worked in miniature.
Perhaps a token of affection rather than mourning, these blossoms
symbolize “remembrance” and “love” in the Victorian “Language of
Flowers”. The floral stems are so delicate that it seems almost
impossible to have been done by human hands. The 18KT rose gold setting
is very pink – more than the photos are able to capture. The pierced ear
wires are accented with a shell or scallop design (a symbol of one’s
“life journey”) from which the articulated glass enclosed earring drops
are suspended. The hair work is bezel set high above the frame of etched
floral buds that form a cascading crescent at the top of the drop. Three
tiers of fine beading surround the oval hair compartments finished off
with tiny etched leaves at the bottom. The glass covers on the back
contain creamy beige fabric. These covers can be opened if desired. I
believe the tiny figure on both sides of the base of both ear wires
contains an eagle’s head – the French mark for 18KT. These romantic
Antique French Earrings convey their timeless expression of love across
the centuries and will become a legacy of love for you to pass on.
Museum quality – exceptional examples of the very best of hair work
jewelry!
Condition: Excellent. They have been recently polished. One tiny petal
is lost. Some water damage to fabric on one earring back.
Size: Oval drops are 1” high, 3/4" wide, 1/4" deep. From top of the
shell they hang 1 1/4" long. |
SOLD! |
MJ067 |
GRAND AND GLORIOUS PLUMES ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Brooch ): Grand
in size, glorious in execution, this Victorian revolving (or swivel)
brooch is simply stunning. (c. 1865-1880) Extremely desirable to
collectors, this example of palette-work “Prince of Wales” feathers
on milk glass is perfection. The 2 large plums are ash blonde and soft
brown in color. The elaborate 10 KT setting features delicate engraving.
The quality of this setting indicates that it was a piece made for a
wealthy client. Both the original C clasp and elongated pin stem are
still in place, as well as a tiny ring at the top where a safety chain
could be added. When you revolve the central hair plaque you can see the
black fiber background under a celluloid cover. At one time it probably
held a photo of a loved one. Magnificent in size, the beauty and harmony
of this mourning brooch declares that you are a serious, knowledgeable
collector of fine Victorian jewelry. Condition: Excellent. It carries
150 years of loving history with it. There is a single loose hair, but
it does not diminish the value or beauty of this piece. Size: 3” high,
2 1/2” wide, 1/2” deep.
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SOLD! |

MJ095
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BUCKLE & GARTER KEEPSAKE ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Brooch / Pin ):
I have never seen this rare and unusual Victorian Mourning Brooch design
before. Set in 15-18KT yellow gold, this mourning brooch uses the buckle
and garter motif – generally reserved for royalty during Queen
Victoria’s reign. Made in England, it may well be a custom made brooch.
(c. 1870) The entire circle is filled with immaculate, tightly woven
brown hair – as is the drape. The pearls (symbolic of tears) in this
majestic pin are all natural pearls in various sizes. The pin back
fastens with a C clasp. (There is a mark on the back reading “816” that
is unknown to me.) The simplicity of the design and the beauty of the
pearls set against the high carat gold color is in many ways a relief
from the excessive ornamentation so beloved by the Victorians. The
condition and rarity of this Antique Mourning Brooch design make it a
highly desirable addition to any sophisticated collector. Truly a
beautiful and scarce keepsake that belongs in a collection of Mourning
rarities.
Condition: Excellent. One tiny pearl has lost a bit of its iridescent
nacre. Not visible to the naked eye.
Size: Garter circle is 1 1/4” in diameter, hair ring is 1/4” wide, lower
pearl drop is 7/8” long, 1/4” deep at bottom. |
SOLD! |

MJ089 |
MEMORIES IN MOTHER-OF-PEARL ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Brooch ):
I am delighted to pass on to you this captivating Victorian Mourning
Brooch from my personal collection. What can I add to the splendid
photos of this incredibly exquisite piece of memorial jewelry? (c.
1860-80) The background is Mother-of-Pearl and shimmers and glints in
pink and green as it is moved (impossible to capture in photos). The
palette-work hair displays a border of light brown leaves encircling the
most breathtaking initials delicately rendered in black hair. Be sure to
notice the tiny black dots that surround the initials. Each “dot” is
made from the black hair. (I am not certain what the initials are –
possibly “JGB” – the “B” in the middle is generally the last name.) The
combination of black and light brown hair against the M-O-P is striking
and elegant. There is an almost lacy appearance to the hair work. The
beaded 14KT gold frame is a luscious red gold. This color is achieved by
adding a touch of copper to the gold. The C clasp pin back is original.
This brooch is a masterpiece of skilled work and superb in every
respect. Condition: Excellent. Size: 1 5/8” high, 1 3/8” wide. |
SOLD! |

CA094 |
TO THY CROSS I CLING ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Cameo Brooch / Pin
Pendant ): The subject of this touchingly sentimental hand carved
shell Cameo is an “Allegory of Death”. (c. 1850-1880) A grieving woman
is portrayed, head bowed with grief, with a cross in her hands as she
prays for her departed loved one. The skull at her side is a timely
reminder that death is always with us. The depicting of death and grief
was a popular theme during the Victorian era. This design harkens back
to the old hymn, “Simply to Thy Cross I Cling.” This Cameo carving is
bezel set in a frame marked “14KT”, with a C clasp closure that includes
an early safety lock and a swivel pendant bale. (Setting is probably c.
1900.) This is a rare, expression of a “Memento Mori”, the timely
reminder that “we all must die”. I believe it is signed on the back with
either the initials “PM” or “DM”. Mourning collectors covet this Cameo
subject and they have become quite scarce. Condition: Very good. Frame
is slightly irregular on the left side, probably made to fit the shell
edge. There are some striations from a natural drying of the shell, but
they are not visible to the naked eye – only in enlargements. Size: 1 ¾”
high, 1 ¼” wide, approximately ¼” deep. |
SOLD! |

MJ084 |
CRESCENT MOONS ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Hair Earrings ): A
photo is better than words in the case of these captivating Victorian 9
KT gold and hair dangle earrings. (c.1850-80) Three elongated tubular
table hair dangles are suspended from a crescent moon inlayed with dark
brown hair under gold wire twists. There is an engraved design at the
tip of each crescent moon. The 3 tubular hair dangles have gold caps at
both the top and bottom. The crescent shape hangs from an architectural
revival gold circle within a circle decorated with tiny beading around
each circle. The shepard’s hook ear wires with clasps are early
replacements. These earrings are almost identical to a pair pictured on
Page 147 of “The Collector’s Encyclopedia of Hair Jewelry” by Jeanenne
Bell. What a treat to have these “ear bobs” dance near your face with
every movement. Move over Scarlett O’Hara and make room for the delicacy
and refinement of these outstanding Antique Hair Earrings. Condition:
Excellent. Firm with no fraying, dangles retain their original shape.
Size: Total length, including ear wire, 2 1/4”, width 1”, depth 1/4”.
Center tubular dangle 7/8”. |
SOLD! |
MJ065 |
THE WINGED SOUL DEPARTING ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Watch
Pendant ):
This very special Victorian Mourning piece has been in my collection for
years. This beautifully
executed, double sided pendant is made to resemble a “watch”, a
death symbol dating back to the Middle Ages in Western Culture, denoting
the brevity life. (c. 1870) The pendant is encased in beveled double
sided celluloid covers, patented in 1868. Each side encloses elaborate
varieties of palette work hair with sepia designs. This is the exact
mourning piece pictured on Page 96 of Maureen DeLorme’s comprehensive
book “Mourning Art and Jewelry”. The side that I refer to as the
front is a 3 dimensional mother-of-pearl memorial with two tiny birds at
the top – the one in the air represents the winged soul departing,
while its mate remains behind to grieve. The milk glass background is
hand tinted in delicate shades of sky blue and sunset pink. The reverse
side of the pendant “watch” is elaborately designed in plumes and
flowers. The 4 initials of the deceased are inscribed in a delicate
script using sepia ink. The frame and “watch” top are gold stamped
“14D” and there is a hallmark of an animal head. A matchless piece
that belongs in a collection of Mourning rarities. Delicate and
feminine, you can wear it without fear of damage. The ring at the top is
large and will accommodate a chain or a neckwire. Condition: Excellent.
One scratch on the front cover, not visible to the naked eye. A minute
chip to the celluloid on the back edge (see photo of initials), not
visible and only mentioned for accuracy. A word of warning – Do not
try to open this locket. The delicate hair work could come loose.
Size: 1 1/4” in diameter, 1/4” deep.
|
SOLD! |
MJ055 |
FAMILY TREE ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Locket & Link Collar ):
It appears that the inside of this Antique Sterling Silver Locket
represents a complete family tree of hair plumes. (c. 1880) This lovely
locket & chain have both been jeweler tested as Sterling Silver. The
shades of hair are beautifully worked complete with tiny pearls and gold
wire coils. It may be a memento of a mother and her children. The front
of the locket is fully engraved with ivy leaves and scroll work edging.
Ivy was used as a symbol of immortality in marital love, fidelity and
eternal life. The locket back is plain with a decorative border. It is
paired with a collar (necklace) of pierced double row links that slide
like silk around your neck. To put the collar on, you open the large
spring ring at the center front and slide one end of the collar in. The
locket can be worn alone by removing it from the large spring ring and
adding a ribbon or neckwire to the silver bale. I would consider adding
a back of neck closure myself. The inside retains its celluloid cover
over the hair and a piece of black fabric on the other side. To discover
an entire “family” of hair mementos is especially desirable to
collectors. Condition: Excellent. Locket snaps closed tightly. No breaks
in the links. Light wear – obviously by someone really wore and
treasured this piece. You can feel the love. Celluloid cover has a
scratch across it. Size: Locket and bale 2 3/8” high, 1 1/2” wide, 1/4”
deep. Neck chain 17” long, 5/8” wide. |
SOLD! |

MJ087 |
TREE OF GOLDEN GLORY (Victorian Mourning Jewelry Hair Swivel Brooch /
Pin):
This is a unique, one-of-a-kind, Victorian Mourning Brooch from my
personal collection. (Dated 1861) This exact brooch appears on Page 90
of Maureen DeLorme’s book “Mourning Art & Jewelry”, currently the best
source for all things involved with Mourning customs. I quote her
description here: “A palette-worked hair “tree” on a milk glass
background. This brooch commemorates the death of “Francis S. Crichton”
whose birth and death dates, inscribed as “Born 18th May 1840, Died 7th
March 1861” appear underneath the beautifully executed hair-work tree.
The workmanship on the inscription is similar to the fine engraving of a
watch maker and it is possible that this brooch was inscribed by someone
in this profession. The tested 14 KT gold brooch swivels and the reverse
shows an early photograph of Francis in his well-dressed suit.” The
black enamel mount has the words “IN MEMORY OF” and engraved ribbon-like
motifs appear at all four compass points. The weeping tree and trunk are
made completely of golden hair. The inscribed plaque at the base of the
tree has an engraved Forget-Me-Not above the date information. The
original C clasp has been replaced with a center closing safety clasp,
the original ring for a safety chain remains. This Antique Mourning
Brooch is unique in its entirety. The quality is so remarkable that the
most sophisticated collector will recognize it as representing the
essence of 19th Century. Condition: Excellent. The center closing safety
clasp makes wearing it very easy. The swivel turns perfectly. Size: 2
3/8” high, 1 7/8” wide, 3/8” deep. |
SOLD! |

MJ082 |
HEART AFLAME WITH PASSION ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Vulcanite Locket
): This Victorian Mourning Locket (c. 1870 - 1890) is molded of
vulcanite, an early form of plastic patented in 1864 by Charles Goodyear
(Yes, tires!) Vulcanite is light weight and a deep black that could be
highly polished as a substitute for jet. The motif on this superb and
complex locket is Faith (the Cross), Hope (the Anchor complete with
chain) and Charity (the Heart). From my personal collection, this locket
has as its centerpiece a bold flaming heart – symbolizing extreme
religious fervor. The flaming heart makes this locket special! The
molded motif is pegged or riveted to the front of the highly polished,
hinged locket. Plain on its backside, when opened the entire surface of
both inside compartments are elaborately decorated with stamped floral
designs. The twin sets of rims and celluloid covers are intact and were
meant to hold a portrait or a hairwork souvenir. The ring at the top is
painted metal and the hinge is also made of metal. It closes firmly with
a soft “click”. I recommend wearing the locket high because you can see
the motif best and when you lean forward it will not swing and hit
against anything. (Check page 37 of the Bell book "Answers to Questions
About Old Jewelry" for a remarkably similar locket interior.) Originally
suitable for mourning, black also became, and remains, “high fashion”
jewelry. Don’t pass this locket up – it is stunning and dramatic.
Condition: Excellent. One minute nibble on the anchor – not visible in
life size. Slight loss of paint from ring. Size: 2”high, including ring,
1 ½” wide, 1” deep, including the top motif. |
SOLD! |

MJ073 |
DANCING HAIR LOOPS ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Earrings ): These
marvelous Victorian Hair Earrings (c. 1850) are highly desirable because
you can actually wear them! The dark brown table-worked hair has been
formed into loops that are coated with a fixative to keep the hair firm.
They are very durable and should remain in perfect condition. (The loops
are flexible, but not soft.) You can handle them easily and wear them as
often as you like. The shepard’s hook ear wires are original. These
light weight dangling “ear bobs” dance delightfully every time you move
your head. Condition: Excellent. No damage or fraying. Size: Earrings
hang 1 7/8” long. Hair loops are 1” wide. |
SOLD! |

MJ072 |
SENTIMENTAL SYMBOLIC SERPENT ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Snake Brooch
): The snake (or serpent) was a popular Victorian romantic image.
This stunning and sensuous large table worked hair snake brooch (c.
1850-70) is made over a hard core to form all of the coils and loops
involved in the body. Notice how the texture of the light brown woven
hair resembles snake scales. The Sterling Silver head and tail are
ornately engraved and embossed with life-like detailing and its eyes are
set with tiny garnets. Fortunately, the snake still retains the little
decorated silver heart drop in its mouth. This snake brooch, synonymous
with Victorian passion, was probably a sentimental lover’s gift, rather
than a mourning piece. Prince Albert designed Queen Victoria’s betrothal
ring in the form of a snake with its tail in its mouth – symbolic of
everlasting love. The snake also symbolized eternity, guardian spirit
and wisdom. The pin-back retains its original C clasp and closes
securely. The multiple textures and fine details of this large snake
brooch exhibit a quality that is quite remarkable. This is a highly
desirable collector’s trophy. Condition: Excellent. No hair damage at
all. Size: 2” long, 1 1/4” high, almost 3/4” deep. |
SOLD! |
MJ060 |
HEAVEN REJOICES ( Georgian Jewelry Mourning Pendant & Portrait
Miniature ):
This is a splendid example of Georgian Mourning Jewelry at its finest.
An expressive painted sepia and dissolved hair on ivory memorial pendant
dating from 1785. The front painting depicts a tomb comprised of an urn,
a pointed obelisk and the plinth that they rest upon. The plinth is
inscribed “Affection Weeps, Heaven Rejoices”. At the right a
prayerful woman in classical dress gazes sadly at the memorial. To the
left a delicate tree with hanging branches enfolds the scene tenderly.
The scene is full of the pathos and romanticism seen in 18th
Century Antique Mourning Jewelry. The painting is extremely fine and
detailed. The urn and base are enhanced by bead and wire twists in both
yellow gold and rose gold. Three rows of tiny seed pearls boarder the
top and bottom of the plinth. Both the plinth and obelisk of this
outstanding piece are significantly elevated, giving it 3 dimensions.
The entire rose gold marquise shaped pendant is edged in a design of
royal blue and white enamel; white in this case symbolizing the loss of
an elderly man and the blue indicating that this was a mourning piece
belonging to a member of the aristocracy (English, I believe.) The
reverse side holds an additional treasure, a polychrome colored
miniature of a pensive beloved gentleman. What expressive eyes! The
miniature is signed “Read” and dated “1785”. The rose gold frame
bears a lightly etched museum acquisition number that reads
“6401DD”. This memorial was evidently culled from a museum
collection. Both sides of the pendant have convex rock crystal covers.
This beautiful piece of mourning jewelry is so symbolic of a time when
death and those departed were kept near to the heart. I have had this
memorial pendant in my personal collection for over 20 years, its value
enhance by having both the memorial scene and the dated portrait
miniature. Condition: Excellent. A few very tiny invisible scratches to
the rock crystal. Two tiny pearls have come loose at some point in its
long history. I have added the bale to the pendant ring. Size: 2”
high, 1 1/4” wide, 1/4” deep. Larger and more substantial than the
average Georgian memorial.
|
SOLD!
|
MJ044 |
LOST
IN TIME ( Georgian Mourning Jewelry Ring ):
This is a splendid example of Georgian Mourning Jewelry at its finest.
Dating from 1787, this memorial ring depicts an elaborately garlanded
urn painted in sepia and dissolved hair on ivory. There is a delicate
weeping willow above the urn, its branches falling around the monument.
The image is extremely crisp, clear and vivid, still retaining its
timeless message. The painted miniature is covered with rock crystal and
set in a simple 14/15 carat gold bezel. The tapered sides of the shank
are delicately engraved. The inscription on the reverse reads: “Ann
Piper,
Ob
7 Jan: 9(?), 1787, at 33”. A touching token of sentiment that was
probably worn by her mother or sister in her remembrance. A beautiful
ring and evocative relic of lives long past. Ring is a size 4 3/4.
A wonderful pinky ring. Condition: Excellent. Some fine surface
scratches seen only under magnification. Size: 1 1/4” high, 3/4”
wide.
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SOLD!
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