Judy Jay's Time Dances By jjay@timedancesby.com
	Phone: 210-690-8454
	--Last Updated: 05/25/2011 --

Item:	Description:	Price:
MJ108	FAMILY CIRCLE ( Victorian Mourning & Sentimental Floral Hair Wreath ): Beautiful, as well as a wonderful example of Americana, this hand made wreath is formed completely of human hair. (c. 1860-80) Hair art was common throughout the United States, England and Europe. These ornate wreaths were made using the hair of family members. They were usually displayed in a shadow box and were designed as sentimental tokens of remembrance though they are often associated with mourning. When placed in a shadow box the back of the frame frequently listed the family members represented and was signed by the maker. The complexity of these flowers and their arrangement bespeaks the talent of the designer. Almost all colors of hair are included in the cornucopia of floral tributes. Lilies, roses, daisies, tiny mums, flower buds and fern leaves produce a lace-like effect. Tiny glass beads are used as an accent – usually representing the stamens or filaments at the center of the flowers. Just imagine the craftsmanship and the amount of time invested in this wreath! But hair lived on as a remembrance for all eternity, so loving hands were happily occupied in the creation of a tribute to living and deceased family members. I have enjoyed it as a part of my personal collection for over 45 years, worn occasionally as a wreath in my hair as an ornament for special occasions. Now it will be passed on to a new owner to treasure and admire. Simply beautiful! Condition: Very good. A few of the flowers have loose hair. Size: Outer diameter of circle of flowers roughly 10”.	SOLD!
MJ107	GOLDEN TASSELS ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Hair Brooch / Pin) : This is a table worked Double Loop Bow Brooch with Dangles. The center is wrapped multiple times with a braided 18KT gold cord with 2 short gold tassels hanging from gold cords and two long gold tassels hanging from 4 cords of braided hair. In addition there is a small gold heart drop with engraved decorations on the front and a glazed locket compartment to the reverse. The heart is hanging from 8 cords of braided hair. C clasp closure on back. This is a museum quality Victorian hair brooch in mint condition. Condition: Excellent Size: The bow is 2 1/4" wide and 1" high. The longer dangles hang 1 1/2" - 2". Heart 3/8" high, 3/8" wide.	SOLD!
MJ102	TURQUOISE SENTIMENTAL SURROUND ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry with Turquoise Pin / Brooch ): It is a pleasure to offer you this truly beautiful sentimental Victorian brooch featuring a smooth translucent Chalcedony background stone. (c. 1870-90) Chalcedony is a family of minerals that are milky white to bluish in color. The soft radiance of this stone made it suitable for half-mourning. The use of the delicate turquoise stones and the elaborate lacy setting leads me to call it a Sentimental Brooch rather than Mourning. The scrolled 9KT setting is an unusual design and the 6 claw bezel holders are shaped like dainty shells. The beveled glass center oval contains braided light brown hair with a surround of tiny turquoise stones. Using colored stones was unusual but the touch of color is so feminine. The stones have remained a great match in color. The back retains its original elongated pin stem and C clasp closure. You can see the rivets that hold the hair plaque in place. This is an elegant and showy piece of antique mourning / sentimental jewelry. It seems designed to say “Look at Me”! A pledge of enduring remembrance. Condition: Excellent. There are some light striations in the chalcedony, but nothing visible to the naked eye. Size: Medium – 2" wide, 1 3/4” high, 1/4" deep.	SOLD!
MJ092	BLACK & WHITE / JET & PEARLS ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Jet & Pearl Locket / Pendant ): When Queen Victoria lost her beloved Prince Albert and plunged all of her vast realm into mourning, black jewelry was the only jewelry allowed at court. The sympathy of her loyal subjects set a fashion for jet jewelry that lasted for decades. Jet is a form of fossilized coal, the best of which was mined in the seaside town of Whitby. Throughout the middle of the 19th Century, when fashion demanded large jewelry pieces, this hand carved Antique Whitby Jet Locket / Pendant would have been the very height of chic. (c. 1870-80) Intricately carved with a looped scroll surround and a twisted rope edging, the center of the front features an applied silver with a gold wash wreath set with lustrous natural pearls. The pearls, symbolizing tears, are all original and the hand carved work is just wonderful. An easily accessed glazed locket compartment on the back currently holds a piece of fabric, but would be meant for hair, a photo or even a dried flower. The large original fitted bale is attached to the locket with a black metal ring. This is an eye-catching, wearable and extremely collectible Whitby Jet Pendant. A regal piece with style and substance, Jet is always elegant and sophisticated – fit for a Queen! Condition: Excellent. The pearl necklace is not included. Slight signs of wear on bale. A tiny nibble to the back – not visible to the naked eye. Size: Pendant with bale 3” long. Pendant drop alone 2” high, 2 3/4” wide, 5/8” deep.	SOLD!
MJ100	BOUQUETS OF LOVE ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Hair Earrings ): These breathtaking French 18K Rose Gold Victorian pierced earrings are a collectors dream! Amazing skill and artistry went into the creation of these beautiful hair work bouquets of love. (c. 1850-60) Resting on oval plaques of milk glass, brunette pansies and forget-me-nots with long stems and leaves have been painstakingly palette worked in miniature. Perhaps a token of affection rather than mourning, these blossoms symbolize “remembrance” and “love” in the Victorian “Language of Flowers”. The floral stems are so delicate that it seems almost impossible to have been done by human hands. The 18KT rose gold setting is very pink – more than the photos are able to capture. The pierced ear wires are accented with a shell or scallop design (a symbol of one’s “life journey”) from which the articulated glass enclosed earring drops are suspended. The hair work is bezel set high above the frame of etched floral buds that form a cascading crescent at the top of the drop. Three tiers of fine beading surround the oval hair compartments finished off with tiny etched leaves at the bottom. The glass covers on the back contain creamy beige fabric. These covers can be opened if desired. I believe the tiny figure on both sides of the base of both ear wires contains an eagle’s head – the French mark for 18KT. These romantic Antique French Earrings convey their timeless expression of love across the centuries and will become a legacy of love for you to pass on. Museum quality – exceptional examples of the very best of hair work jewelry! Condition: Excellent. They have been recently polished. One tiny petal is lost. Some water damage to fabric on one earring back. Size: Oval drops are 1” high, 3/4" wide, 1/4" deep. From top of the shell they hang 1 1/4" long.	SOLD!
MJ067	GRAND AND GLORIOUS PLUMES ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Brooch ): Grand in size, glorious in execution, this Victorian revolving (or swivel) brooch is simply stunning. (c. 1865-1880) Extremely desirable to collectors, this example of palette-work “Prince of Wales” feathers on milk glass is perfection. The 2 large plums are ash blonde and soft brown in color. The elaborate 10 KT setting features delicate engraving. The quality of this setting indicates that it was a piece made for a wealthy client. Both the original C clasp and elongated pin stem are still in place, as well as a tiny ring at the top where a safety chain could be added. When you revolve the central hair plaque you can see the black fiber background under a celluloid cover. At one time it probably held a photo of a loved one. Magnificent in size, the beauty and harmony of this mourning brooch declares that you are a serious, knowledgeable collector of fine Victorian jewelry. Condition: Excellent. It carries 150 years of loving history with it. There is a single loose hair, but it does not diminish the value or beauty of this piece. Size: 3” high, 2 1/2” wide, 1/2” deep.	SOLD!
MJ095	BUCKLE & GARTER KEEPSAKE ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Brooch / Pin ): I have never seen this rare and unusual Victorian Mourning Brooch design before. Set in 15-18KT yellow gold, this mourning brooch uses the buckle and garter motif – generally reserved for royalty during Queen Victoria’s reign. Made in England, it may well be a custom made brooch. (c. 1870) The entire circle is filled with immaculate, tightly woven brown hair – as is the drape. The pearls (symbolic of tears) in this majestic pin are all natural pearls in various sizes. The pin back fastens with a C clasp. (There is a mark on the back reading “816” that is unknown to me.) The simplicity of the design and the beauty of the pearls set against the high carat gold color is in many ways a relief from the excessive ornamentation so beloved by the Victorians. The condition and rarity of this Antique Mourning Brooch design make it a highly desirable addition to any sophisticated collector. Truly a beautiful and scarce keepsake that belongs in a collection of Mourning rarities. Condition: Excellent. One tiny pearl has lost a bit of its iridescent nacre. Not visible to the naked eye. Size: Garter circle is 1 1/4” in diameter, hair ring is 1/4” wide, lower pearl drop is 7/8” long, 1/4” deep at bottom.	SOLD!
MJ089	MEMORIES IN MOTHER-OF-PEARL ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Brooch ): I am delighted to pass on to you this captivating Victorian Mourning Brooch from my personal collection. What can I add to the splendid photos of this incredibly exquisite piece of memorial jewelry? (c. 1860-80) The background is Mother-of-Pearl and shimmers and glints in pink and green as it is moved (impossible to capture in photos). The palette-work hair displays a border of light brown leaves encircling the most breathtaking initials delicately rendered in black hair. Be sure to notice the tiny black dots that surround the initials. Each “dot” is made from the black hair. (I am not certain what the initials are – possibly “JGB” – the “B” in the middle is generally the last name.) The combination of black and light brown hair against the M-O-P is striking and elegant. There is an almost lacy appearance to the hair work. The beaded 14KT gold frame is a luscious red gold. This color is achieved by adding a touch of copper to the gold. The C clasp pin back is original. This brooch is a masterpiece of skilled work and superb in every respect. Condition: Excellent. Size: 1 5/8” high, 1 3/8” wide.	SOLD!
CA094	TO THY CROSS I CLING ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Cameo Brooch / Pin Pendant ): The subject of this touchingly sentimental hand carved shell Cameo is an “Allegory of Death”. (c. 1850-1880) A grieving woman is portrayed, head bowed with grief, with a cross in her hands as she prays for her departed loved one. The skull at her side is a timely reminder that death is always with us. The depicting of death and grief was a popular theme during the Victorian era. This design harkens back to the old hymn, “Simply to Thy Cross I Cling.” This Cameo carving is bezel set in a frame marked “14KT”, with a C clasp closure that includes an early safety lock and a swivel pendant bale. (Setting is probably c. 1900.) This is a rare, expression of a “Memento Mori”, the timely reminder that “we all must die”. I believe it is signed on the back with either the initials “PM” or “DM”. Mourning collectors covet this Cameo subject and they have become quite scarce. Condition: Very good. Frame is slightly irregular on the left side, probably made to fit the shell edge. There are some striations from a natural drying of the shell, but they are not visible to the naked eye – only in enlargements. Size: 1 ¾” high, 1 ¼” wide, approximately ¼” deep.	SOLD!
MJ084	CRESCENT MOONS ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Hair Earrings ): A photo is better than words in the case of these captivating Victorian 9 KT gold and hair dangle earrings. (c.1850-80) Three elongated tubular table hair dangles are suspended from a crescent moon inlayed with dark brown hair under gold wire twists. There is an engraved design at the tip of each crescent moon. The 3 tubular hair dangles have gold caps at both the top and bottom. The crescent shape hangs from an architectural revival gold circle within a circle decorated with tiny beading around each circle. The shepard’s hook ear wires with clasps are early replacements. These earrings are almost identical to a pair pictured on Page 147 of “The Collector’s Encyclopedia of Hair Jewelry” by Jeanenne Bell. What a treat to have these “ear bobs” dance near your face with every movement. Move over Scarlett O’Hara and make room for the delicacy and refinement of these outstanding Antique Hair Earrings. Condition: Excellent. Firm with no fraying, dangles retain their original shape. Size: Total length, including ear wire, 2 1/4”, width 1”, depth 1/4”. Center tubular dangle 7/8”.	SOLD!
MJ065	THE WINGED SOUL DEPARTING ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Watch Pendant ): This very special Victorian Mourning piece has been in my collection for years.  This beautifully executed, double sided pendant is made to resemble a “watch”, a death symbol dating back to the Middle Ages in Western Culture, denoting the brevity life. (c. 1870) The pendant is encased in beveled double sided celluloid covers, patented in 1868. Each side encloses elaborate varieties of palette work hair with sepia designs. This is the exact mourning piece pictured on Page 96 of Maureen DeLorme’s comprehensive book “Mourning Art and Jewelry”. The side that I refer to as the front is a 3 dimensional mother-of-pearl memorial with two tiny birds at the top – the one in the air represents the winged soul departing, while its mate remains behind to grieve. The milk glass background is hand tinted in delicate shades of sky blue and sunset pink. The reverse side of the pendant “watch” is elaborately designed in plumes and flowers. The 4 initials of the deceased are inscribed in a delicate script using sepia ink. The frame and “watch” top are gold stamped “14D” and there is a hallmark of an animal head. A matchless piece that belongs in a collection of Mourning rarities. Delicate and feminine, you can wear it without fear of damage. The ring at the top is large and will accommodate a chain or a neckwire. Condition: Excellent. One scratch on the front cover, not visible to the naked eye. A minute chip to the celluloid on the back edge (see photo of initials), not visible and only mentioned for accuracy. A word of warning – Do not try to open this locket. The delicate hair work could come loose. Size: 1 1/4” in diameter, 1/4” deep.	SOLD!
MJ055	FAMILY TREE ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Locket & Link Collar ): It appears that the inside of this Antique Sterling Silver Locket represents a complete family tree of hair plumes. (c. 1880) This lovely locket & chain have both been jeweler tested as Sterling Silver. The shades of hair are beautifully worked complete with tiny pearls and gold wire coils. It may be a memento of a mother and her children. The front of the locket is fully engraved with ivy leaves and scroll work edging. Ivy was used as a symbol of immortality in marital love, fidelity and eternal life. The locket back is plain with a decorative border. It is paired with a collar (necklace) of pierced double row links that slide like silk around your neck. To put the collar on, you open the large spring ring at the center front and slide one end of the collar in. The locket can be worn alone by removing it from the large spring ring and adding a ribbon or neckwire to the silver bale. I would consider adding a back of neck closure myself. The inside retains its celluloid cover over the hair and a piece of black fabric on the other side. To discover an entire “family” of hair mementos is especially desirable to collectors. Condition: Excellent. Locket snaps closed tightly. No breaks in the links. Light wear – obviously by someone really wore and treasured this piece. You can feel the love. Celluloid cover has a scratch across it. Size: Locket and bale 2 3/8” high, 1 1/2” wide, 1/4” deep. Neck chain 17” long, 5/8” wide.	SOLD!
MJ087	TREE OF GOLDEN GLORY (Victorian Mourning Jewelry Hair Swivel Brooch / Pin): This is a unique, one-of-a-kind, Victorian Mourning Brooch from my personal collection. (Dated 1861) This exact brooch appears on Page 90 of Maureen DeLorme’s book “Mourning Art & Jewelry”, currently the best source for all things involved with Mourning customs. I quote her description here: “A palette-worked hair “tree” on a milk glass background. This brooch commemorates the death of “Francis S. Crichton” whose birth and death dates, inscribed as “Born 18th May 1840, Died 7th March 1861” appear underneath the beautifully executed hair-work tree. The workmanship on the inscription is similar to the fine engraving of a watch maker and it is possible that this brooch was inscribed by someone in this profession. The tested 14 KT gold brooch swivels and the reverse shows an early photograph of Francis in his well-dressed suit.” The black enamel mount has the words “IN MEMORY OF” and engraved ribbon-like motifs appear at all four compass points. The weeping tree and trunk are made completely of golden hair. The inscribed plaque at the base of the tree has an engraved Forget-Me-Not above the date information. The original C clasp has been replaced with a center closing safety clasp, the original ring for a safety chain remains. This Antique Mourning Brooch is unique in its entirety. The quality is so remarkable that the most sophisticated collector will recognize it as representing the essence of 19th Century. Condition: Excellent. The center closing safety clasp makes wearing it very easy. The swivel turns perfectly. Size: 2 3/8” high, 1 7/8” wide, 3/8” deep.	SOLD!
MJ073	DANCING HAIR LOOPS ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Earrings ): These marvelous Victorian Hair Earrings (c. 1850) are highly desirable because you can actually wear them! The dark brown table-worked hair has been formed into loops that are coated with a fixative to keep the hair firm. They are very durable and should remain in perfect condition. (The loops are flexible, but not soft.) You can handle them easily and wear them as often as you like. The shepard’s hook ear wires are original. These light weight dangling “ear bobs” dance delightfully every time you move your head. Condition: Excellent. No damage or fraying. Size: Earrings hang 1 7/8” long. Hair loops are 1” wide.	SOLD!
MJ072	SENTIMENTAL SYMBOLIC SERPENT ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Snake Brooch ): The snake (or serpent) was a popular Victorian romantic image. This stunning and sensuous large table worked hair snake brooch (c. 1850-70) is made over a hard core to form all of the coils and loops involved in the body. Notice how the texture of the light brown woven hair resembles snake scales. The Sterling Silver head and tail are ornately engraved and embossed with life-like detailing and its eyes are set with tiny garnets. Fortunately, the snake still retains the little decorated silver heart drop in its mouth. This snake brooch, synonymous with Victorian passion, was probably a sentimental lover’s gift, rather than a mourning piece. Prince Albert designed Queen Victoria’s betrothal ring in the form of a snake with its tail in its mouth – symbolic of everlasting love. The snake also symbolized eternity, guardian spirit and wisdom. The pin-back retains its original C clasp and closes securely. The multiple textures and fine details of this large snake brooch exhibit a quality that is quite remarkable. This is a highly desirable collector’s trophy. Condition: Excellent. No hair damage at all. Size: 2” long, 1 1/4” high, almost 3/4” deep.	SOLD!
MJ060	HEAVEN REJOICES ( Georgian Jewelry Mourning Pendant & Portrait Miniature ): This is a splendid example of Georgian Mourning Jewelry at its finest. An expressive painted sepia and dissolved hair on ivory memorial pendant dating from 1785. The front painting depicts a tomb comprised of an urn, a pointed obelisk and the plinth that they rest upon. The plinth is inscribed “Affection Weeps, Heaven Rejoices”. At the right a prayerful woman in classical dress gazes sadly at the memorial. To the left a delicate tree with hanging branches enfolds the scene tenderly. The scene is full of the pathos and romanticism seen in 18th Century Antique Mourning Jewelry. The painting is extremely fine and detailed. The urn and base are enhanced by bead and wire twists in both yellow gold and rose gold. Three rows of tiny seed pearls boarder the top and bottom of the plinth. Both the plinth and obelisk of this outstanding piece are significantly elevated, giving it 3 dimensions. The entire rose gold marquise shaped pendant is edged in a design of royal blue and white enamel; white in this case symbolizing the loss of an elderly man and the blue indicating that this was a mourning piece belonging to a member of the aristocracy (English, I believe.) The reverse side holds an additional treasure, a polychrome colored miniature of a pensive beloved gentleman. What expressive eyes! The miniature is signed “Read” and dated “1785”. The rose gold frame bears a lightly etched museum acquisition number that reads “6401DD”. This memorial was evidently culled from a museum collection. Both sides of the pendant have convex rock crystal covers. This beautiful piece of mourning jewelry is so symbolic of a time when death and those departed were kept near to the heart. I have had this memorial pendant in my personal collection for over 20 years, its value enhance by having both the memorial scene and the dated portrait miniature. Condition: Excellent. A few very tiny invisible scratches to the rock crystal. Two tiny pearls have come loose at some point in its long history. I have added the bale to the pendant ring. Size: 2” high, 1 1/4” wide, 1/4” deep. Larger and more substantial than the average Georgian memorial.	SOLD!
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