Time Dances By - Victorian & Ivory Jewelry

Item:	Description:	Price:
VJ186	STOLEN TREASURE ( Arts & Crafts Jewelry Peacock Eye Brooch / Pin ): I was very excited when I found this dazzling example of the Arts & Crafts Movement on my last buying trip. Powerful and mysterious, this large mythical clawed bird foot is gripping a huge Peacock Eye stone. It appears to be reaching down from the sky to clutch its brilliantly hued treasure – a stolen treasure gone forever. This brooch displays the vibrancy of nature in fine and precise craftsmanship. The practitioners of the Arts & Crafts Movement (c. 1890-1920) were revivalists of the past. (You can see the Medieval and Gothic influence in the choice of a claw.) They rebelled against the excesses of Victorian ornamentation. In jewelry the intrinsic value of the materials was of secondary importance to design and workmanship. Most Arts & Crafts artisans preferred silver to gold and cabochon cut gem stones to faceted ones. The leg of the powerful bird is realistically rendered in brass with a brownish patina – every scale and claw as if made by nature. (c. 1900-1910) At the top of the foot is an encircling cluster of leaves – giving the impression of the leg reaching right through them to steal the colorful treasure. Peacock Eye stones were hand crafted, glass over foil and a favorite of Arts & Craft designers. The back of the brooch has a replacement pin stem and safety catch closure. This timeless beauty embodies all of the hallmarks of the Arts & Crafts movement in one breathtaking brooch. It’s a killer combination! Condition: Excellent. Replacement pin stem and safety clasp. Size: 3” long, 1 3/8” high, 1/2" deep. Peacock Eye Stone is 1” long, 5/8” high, 3/8” deep.	$485.00
VJ191	THE WONDER OF UNGER ( Art Nouveau Jewelry Sterling Silver Unger Brothers Brooch / Pin ): Unger Bros. was one of the most creative and premier manufacturers of Art Nouveau Sterling Silver items in the United States. This firm reached its creative zenith from 1895 to 1907. The company’s most popular items were decorated with fantastic Nouveau designs incorporating flowers, heads of women, ocean waves and seashells. This splendid large brooch is of a fashionable lady wearing a plumed hat, her face entirely covered with a veil with a large elaborate bow tied under her chin. (c. 1900-10) Her eyes are demurely downcast, her nose a perfect line and her lips are slightly parted. This elegant lady brooch has all the “bells and whistles”. The design is done in die-stamp high relief work for which the Unger Bros. were known. The sculptural quality of the high relief work creates a distinctive three-dimensional sense – adding to the fantasy-like atmosphere of the design. The reverse has been backed with a flat sheet of Sterling to give more substance. There is a replacement C clasp closure on the back and the distinctive hallmark with the interlaced “U” and “B” surrounded by the words and numbers “STERLING 925 FINE”. Many of these large brooches are in museums or private collections. Lovely to look at, thrilling to hold, a real show stopper! Picture yourself with this worn on black velvet. You’ll be the envy of every lady who sees you and this could become your personal signature piece. Condition: Excellent. Wonderful patina. The two tiny pin holes on the reverse are part of the casting process. Size: Large – 2 1/2" high, 2 1/2" wide, 1/2" deep.	$800.00
VJ189	THE SHIMMER & SPARKLE OF GARNETS ( Victorian Jewelry Garnet Brooch / Pin ): The history and mystery of garnets is part of their charm. This stone received its name from the Latin word for pomegranate because it reminded early gemologists of pomegranate seeds. During the Victorian era Western cultures believed that garnets would enrich the blood and provide the wearer with a long and healthy life. Glittering garnets dance across the surface of this multi-layered early Victorian Brooch. (c. 1830-60) The deep wine red garnets are faceted to refract sheer brilliance and their radiance and glow is simply luscious. Unlike many flat garnet designs, this antique brooch is composed of multi-leveled tiers of sparkling and varied sized garnets. The entire top portion of the brooch is domed with a sparkling drop suspended at the bottom. The central bezel set cabochon oval garnet is surrounded by a starburst of tiny white pearls, each set in its individual tiny “petal”. The floral shaped drop also has a tiny pearl at its center. A very unusual design that adds elegance and refinement to the brooch. The gems are all closed back and, as is characteristic for this type of jewelry, have all been set into rose gold gilt over silver – commonly called “garnet gold”. There is an early replacement C clasp closure and a pin stem replacement. If you have been wanting a special piece of garnet jewelry, you cannot do better than this – the essence of Victorian style. Condition: Excellent. All stones and pearls are original. Size: With dangle 2" high, 2”wide, 3/8" deep. Dangle is 5/8” long, 3/8” wide. Center cabochon is 5/8” wide, 3/8” high.	$450.00
VJ187	THE HUNTER AND THE HUNTED ( Victorian Jewelry Tiger Claw Brooch / Pin ): One of the many seemingly odd Victorian traits was their unending appetite for exotic jewelry from exotic places. This wonderful 9KT gold Antique Double Tiger Claw Brooch illustrates the rage for items from India. In 1876 Queen Victoria was proclaimed the Empress of India, so it is not surprising that Mogul jewelry and elaborately set tiger claws made their appearance. The “Great White Hunters” made their mark on fashion – jewelry was frequently sent home as a memento of their hunting expertise. At that time there was no concern that the seemingly endless supply of birds and animals would ever become endangered. This superb large double claw Antique Tiger Claw Brooch (c. 1880-90) was mounted in India in the traditional style. The size of the claws makes this brooch a real treasure. A double sided figural of a lion is seated with his paw on a golden orb – no doubt representing England’s rule over much of the world. The filigree work is very fine and the saw-tooth cover on the inside of the claws indicates a Victorian Tiger Claw Brooch that is superior in all ways. There is a C clasp closure. The regal and dramatic trophy brooch is an unforgettable example of the Victorian quest for the exotic. Simply magnificent! Condition: Excellent. Very well done mounting (see photos of the back). A natural drying of the organic claws. Includes original black leather box high-lighted with gold leaf, a deep wine velvet bed and a cream satin lid liner. Box is in good condition and closes firmly with a brass hinge and push button fastener. Size: 2” wide, 2” high, 1/4” deep.	ON HOLD!
VJ193	THE QUEEN’S FAVORITE ( Victorian Jewelry Essex Crystal Pug Stick Pin ): It is hard to part with this fine quality reverse Crystal Carving of a precious pug. (c.1870-80) Beloved pets of Queen Victoria, she outlawed the cropping of pug’s ears. This beautifully made English 15KT gold twisted cable bezel mount is set with a fine rock crystal cabochon which has been hand carved from the back. The depression left by the carving is then hand painted in minute detail. The painted area ,when viewed from the front, assumes a 3-dimensional effect. This very proper pug must have been someone’s pet. Notice the blue Victorian collar with a golden bell in the front. The pin stem is spiral cut and textured to assure a firm hold on fabrics. This Antique Pug Stick Pin comes along with its original maroon leatherette box. The push button closure works fine. The interior of the box lid is lined with a deep green satin and the pin holder is a deep green velvet. These scarce crystals now command spiraling prices and are highly sought after by animal collectors. Pug people – this would make a wonderful gift for a man or a woman. Condition: Excellent. All original with just a tiny bit of loss to the blue collar not seen by the naked eye. The box is sturdy but shows signs of wear consistent with it age. Size: Crystal portion is 3/4" diameter, 1/4" deep. Pin stem is 2 3/8” long.	ON HOLD!
VJ190	THE POWER OF THE HIGHLANDS ( Victorian Jewelry Scottish Agate Brooch / Pin ): When Queen Victoria and Albert purchased Balmoral Castle in 1848 the heart of English society was immediately captivated with the subtle colors of moss and heather, the mysteries of high gray castle walls and the strict heraldry which still ruled the Scottish clans. This extraordinary antique Victorian brooch mimics the penannular (broken ring) brooches that were used to secure the clan’s tartan plaid to the left shoulder of the Scottish Highlander. (c. 1850-70) Inlayed with 5 pieces of agate and 2 slices of bloodstone, this ancient stone is actually a dark green chalcedony with flecks of red – hence the name bloodstone. Many ancient magical powers are credited to it, including the power to stop bleeding and preserve health. The Sterling Silver portions are elaborately engraved, the long pin running through the center makes a handsome accent. The three large bezel set faceted stones are citrines. This is not a hollow ware piece - it is solid Sterling. The back retains its original C clasp closure, elongated pin stem and a tiny ring for a safety chain. A perfect jacket or shawl brooch that a collector will love. The market for prime Scottish jewelry is rising rapidly and pieces as large and powerful as this brooch are disappearing fast. Songs and stories immortalize the fierce and turbulent past that still haunts the Scottish soul. Regal, elegant and a touch barbaric – this unforgettable brooch is as wearable today as it was 150 years ago. Condition: Excellent. I believe the dark agate stone just above the citrine in the pin head to be a replacement. No scratches on citrines. Size: Large – 2 3/8” in diameter, front pin stem 2 3/4" long, 3/8” deep.	$950.00
VJ188	CLAW QUARTET ( Victorian Jewelry Tiger Claw Brooch / Pin ): An elaborate souvenir of the Raj era in India, this 4 Tiger Claw Brooch is quite a grand reminder of the age when British “Great White Hunters” roamed India in search of trophies of their hunting prowess. Definitely mounted in India (c. 1870-90), the top two claws are pointed downward with the addition of 2 golden orbs hanging from chains. The lower two claws are suspended upwards with a golden draped chain linking the two claws near their points. Golden tendrils, leaves and wire flowers decorate the brooch in a manner perfected by Indian craftsmen. There are small blue Indian sapphires at the center of each flower. The brooch is gold plated and the back retains its original C clasp closure. Quite a catch – in ways more than one! A reminder of the British quest for the exotic. I like to picture the lucky Victorian lady who wore this Antique Brooch and who was certainly the envy of her friends. A handsome piece, dripping with style, to add to your jewelry collection. Condition: Very good. One claw liner is missing – not really noticeable. A few leaves probably surrounded the top flower. Tiny loops on the sides of the two small claws indicate that there was once something more to this brooch. Size: 2” high, 1 3/4" wide, 1/4” deep.	ON HOLD!
VJ038	BANDS OF BEAUTY ( Victorian Jewelry Banded Agate Brooch / Pin ): This graceful oval Victorian pin consists of a bevel edged smooth plaque of agate with a perfect sphere shaped bead at its center. (c. 1860-75) The banded agate is beautifully shaded in black, translucent brown and white stripes. The ball at the center is colored in rings of white on brown and black. It would be a lovely focal point on a jacket lapel. The C clasp pin back is soldered through to the attachment of the agate ball. It appears that the solder has been reinforced, invisible when worn. Condition: Excellent. A few tiny flea bites not seen except under magnification. Size: Oval 1 3/4” wide, 1 1/4” high, sphere 1/2” diameter.	$20.00
MJ097	ETERNAL SERPENT ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Snake Brooch / Pin ): This remarkably striking black and white banded agate Mourning Brooch features an 18KT gold plated serpent wrapped around the outer gold circle rim. (c. 1870-80) Beginning with his tail the serpent entwines his body around the black banded agate in gradually wider coils ending with his large head resting upon the top of the agate. Such a wonderful face! The snake has his mouth open and you can see his forked tongue. The serpent is probably the best known and most successful motif drawn from the animal world. Beloved by Queen Victoria, the snake symbolized love, eternity, rebirth, immortality and wisdom. (And you thought it was just a slimy reptile!) This combination – snake and agate – was frequently worn as memorial jewelry. On the back is a circular compartment designed to hold a photo or hair memento under the glass cover. (This compartment can be removed if you choose to enclose a personal memorial.) The original C clasp closure is in place. Regal, yet simple, these snake memorial pieces are highly desirable and a great favorite with collectors. This is a large, majestic brooch that will be hard to top! Condition: Excellent. Size: 1 5/8” diameter, 3/4" deep.	$725.00
VJ178	ARTS & CRAFTS POOL of LIGHT ( Art Nouveau/Arts & Crafts Jewelry Silver “Pool of Light” Necklace ): “Pools of Light” or “Gypsy beads”, as they are sometimes called, are clear quartz crystal orbs. A real treasure, this necklace from the Arts & Crafts period (c. 1920-30) holds a large silver caged sphere suspended from a long hand crafted silver chain. The practitioners of the Arts & Crafts Movement re-interpreted the past. In jewelry the intrinsic value of the materials was of secondary importance to design and workmanship. These “pools of light” are believed to be a product of Mount Fujiyama in Japan. When the mount erupted in springtime these crystal balls found their way into stream beds where over the years they were polished as they journeyed over pebbles into the foothill river beds. Finally they were polished to perfection in the lapidary shops of Kofu. Traditionally they have been treasured – especially by the Chinese who believe that luck resides in the inner recesses of these orbs. “Pools” were never drilled because it was believed that drilling allowed the good luck to pour out of the crystal. The supply of these wonderful crystals seemed to exhaust itself in the 1930’s. This silver link, ball and wirework designed chain slips over your head and has a spring ring that attaches to the pool of light. A wonderfully versatile necklace, you can take off the orb and use the chain it to wear another pendant or wear the crystal orb alone. It is difficult to photograph these pools – they appear grayish in photos. Against the skin, or other hues, they take on a rainbow of guises. Alive with vibrancy of another era, I can picture Isadora Duncan wearing this necklace as she danced in the moonlight. A special treasure for a special lady. You will love it! Condition: Excellent. Size: Orb is 1” in diameter, chain is 31” long.	$675.00
IV056	THE POWER OF HONOR AND VICTORY ( Victorian Jewelry Ivory Cross Pendant ): This deeply hand carved Antique Ivory Cross Pendant combines two of the most potent symbols of Victorian culture – the cross of Christian Faith and oak leaves with acorns symbolizing longevity, honor and victory. (c. 1860-80) This powerful cross has rounded, veined oak leaves carved with fully rounded acorns, textured caps and pointed tips. At the center of the arms of the cross is a carved heart symbolizing the love of God and the center of the soul. The high quality of the carving indicates that it was probably done in the city of Dieppe, France – the center of ivory carvers. The cross is in flawless condition with the mellow warm patina of age and visible graining, shown on our close-up photo of the heart, a leaf and an acorn. I like the fact that this is a wearable work of a master carver’s art. The bale is carved from the same piece of Ivory as the pendant – just add a fine chain. Ivory has become scarce and highly collectible. Crosses are currently high fashion accessories, but this one will never go out of style and can be passed on to future generations. Quality is always the best buy! Condition: Excellent. Size: Including bale 3 3/4" high, 2” wide and 5/8” deep.	$500.00
VJ177	BANDS OF BEAUTY ( Victorian Jewelry Banded Agate Earrings ): One of my favorite Victorian stones is Banded Agate, a variety of quartz. These large, highly polished black and white agate earrings (with just a bit of dark chocolate) are a matched set with bands of white running through the orbs. The top bead is a bit smaller than the bottom bead, making a lovely balanced pair of pierced earrings. (English, c. 1860-80) There are small black beads above and between the banded agate spheres. The metal findings are Sterling Silver with the ear wires being a later, but appropriate, replacement. The stark simplicity of banded agate has made these earrings a timeless example of understated elegance. Perfect with casual wear or velvet for today’s woman of style. Condition: Excellent. A few minor scuffs of wear. Size: From the top of the ear wires 2 1/2" long, top bead 5/8” diameter, bottom bead 3/4".	$325.00
VJ175	ANOTHER ANGEL GETS HER WINGS ( Victorian Jewelry Ivory Portrait Miniature / Pendant ): Originally purchased in London, this is one of the most haunting and poignant portrait miniatures I have come upon. She is simply an angel. (c. 1900) Hand painted on Ivory, her face is magnificent. Her blue eyes seem to gaze in the distance and her lips are sweetly closed. Fine blonde curls cascade down to her slight shoulders, giving the effect of being surrounded by light. Dainty hands are posed holding white robes draped around her and upon her beautifully painted hands she wears a tiny gold ring on her right middle finger. The symbols of the blue sky background, the wearing of the robes which flow about her like billowing clouds and the arrangement of her hands suggest that she is deceased. Gone but Not Forgotten. An irresistible image that will touch your heart. The portrait is set in an 18KT rose gold frame held with four pins and the back is covered in green velvet. There is a lovely wide bale for a chain. I can not find a signature, but this is clearly the work of a skilled artist. Amazingly, the original antique traveling case with a beige velvet bed and beige silk interior lining survives. The case is made of wood covered by dark brown leather. The leather on the front is cracked and the silk frayed – as shown in the photos. I can only imagine the grieving mother or father who constantly kept this reminder at hand, even when traveling. Not lost but gone before-she is simply an angel. Condition: Portrait and setting are excellent. The case shows the wear of time. Size: Portrait is 2 5/8” high, 2” wide, 1/4” deep.	$1500.00
VJ173	ROYAL GREYHOUND ( Victorian Jewelry Greyhound Fob / Pendant ): Victorians loved their dogs – lap dogs or working dogs, sight hounds or scent hounds. Greyhounds are also known as sight hounds because they hunt by speed and sight. Royalty bet vast sums on the outcome of a day race and kept Italian greyhounds in their households. Exquisitely sculpted in Sterling Silver with a vermeil (gold wash) collar and base, a greyhound, whippet or Italian greyhound has been masterfully modeled in a sitting position. Realistically rendered, musculature and anatomy are without question that of a sight hound. He is captured turning his head as if he has just heard his name called. He has one paw lifted and his tail is charmingly wrapped around his leg. There is a ring on his engraved collar, large enough to pass a chain through. The deep reddish brown oval carnelian fob base is engraved with the name “Eugine Amphoux”. (c. 1880) The striking combination of colors – silver, gold and carnelian – is elegant and regal. Outstanding in its entirety, this antique fob/pendant is a masterpiece of the jeweler’s art. Medium to large in scale, this Victorian greyhound fob/pendant is eye catching and full of wonderful character. Won’t you please adopt this appealing greyhound and give him a “forever” home? Condition: Excellent. No chips. Size: 1 ½” high, oval carnelian base is 1 ½” long, 1” wide.	$800.00
IV055	REGAL AFRICAN QUEEN ( Vintage Bone Black African Jewelry Pin / Brooch): I am pleased to offer this dramatic hand carved bone brooch of a handsome African Woman. (c. 1920) It has been in my personal collection of ethnic jewelry for years. The lavish and intricate carving make this bone brooch almost as valuable one carved from ivory. Notice the fine work on her hair style and the magnificent jewelry she wears, including her grand earrings. This brooch was sold to me as a French piece but it could well be African due to the amount of detail in costume and hair style. You can clearly see the distinctive bone markings on the back of this portrait of a Black Woman. There is a riveted C clasp closure original to the piece. Outstanding in its entirety, this timeless beauty is extravagant in its size and workmanship. A “killer” brooch – wearing it will make you feel like a Queen! Condition: Excellent. No chips. Size: 2 ¾” high, 1 ¾” wide ¼” deep.	$300.00
VJ131	SHIMMERING BLUE BELLE ÉPOQUE ( Edwardian Jewelry Guilloché Locket ): This superb Edwardian shimmering blue guilloché locket is simply the largest and most stunning piece of its kind that I have seen. (c. 1890-1920) Only a confident lady of the Belle Époque era would have worn this large Sterling Silver Stunner. The technique of guilloché enamel features an engraved decoration of geometric design achieved by engine turning. When used as a base for translucent enamel it creates a shimmering effect. The intense deep blue of this locket provides an opulent background for the “garland style” – hand painted pink and pale yellow roses that circle the border of this oval antique locket. Swags of leaves have been painted above the central bouquet of mixed roses. There are tiny gold dot accents on the locket front. The back of the locket is also deep blue enamel over a wave pattern emanating from the center. The good sized pendant ring is marked “935 M” and the pendant itself is jeweler tested as Sterling. The locket interior contains its original inserts and celluloid covers, which have yellowed with time. The hinged closure is firm and tight. These guilloché lockets have become a favorite with collectors. The more complex the design and the more colors used, the more highly the piece is valued. This rich and sumptuous locket will linger in your mind. It is an unforgettable example of Belle Époque extravagance. Condition: Excellent. A few surface scratches visible only under magnification. Size: 2 1/4” high, 1 3/4” wide.	$675.00
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