Time Dances By - Victorian & Ivory Jewelry

Item:	Description:	Price:
VJ185	THE YEAR OF THE TIGER ( Victorian Jewelry Tiger Claw Brooch ): You will love the size of this Victorian Tiger Claw brooch! Set in a 9KT rose gold mount, this is one of the largest claws I have offered. (c. 1880-90) In 1876 Queen Victoria was proclaimed Empress of India. That British period of rule, from 1858 until 1947, has come to be known as the British Raj and it has gifted us with an exotic legacy – the style of jewelry known as Raj. The “Great White Hunters” made their mark on fashion by sending home claws and teeth set in gold as mementos of their hunting expertise. Tigers are native only to countries of the Asian continent. These magnificent beasts of valor are a living symbol of strength and power that inspire fear and respect. It is fitting that the claws and teeth of the Tiger have been revered and worn as amulets throughout the ages. This large Antique Tiger Claw Brooch has a scalloped gold jacket that also encases the curve of the claw and ends at the tip with a golden orb. The back features a C clasp closure. Collectors have made these mounted claws all the rage in fashion again. Exotic and intriguing, claw jewelry lets the imagination wander into the mysterious land of India. Condition: Excellent. Size: 1 3/8” high, 1 3/4" wide, 1/4" deep.	$325.00
VJ181	CANDLELIGHT SPARKLERS ( Victorian Jewelry Cut Steel Earrings ): These large dangling Cut Steel Earrings for pierced ears are a stunning example of Victorian cut steel jewelry. (c.1860-70) Probably French in origin, these large light weight fully articulated earrings shimmer and glint from every angle – all of the free swinging parts allow for maximum glitter!. Used as an alternative for the look and impact of early cut diamonds, cut steel in jewelry became a highly refined process. Each small steel bead or stud is hand cut, faceted, polished and painstakingly riveted onto a metal (typically brass) back piece. The steel studs are densely set to provide remarkable brilliance. (Our photos can not nearly capture the true appearance.) As the light dances from one facet to another, you can imagine the sparkling effect when worn swirling at a ball. The original hook earring backs have been replaced with posts at some time in the earlier history of the elegant earrings. These beauties are certainly “eye dazzlers”! We often think of steel being durable – in actuality cut steel did not often survive the centuries and earring of this material are extremely difficult to obtain. Naturally this has made them highly prized by collectors. Simply divine and flattering to every face, the condition of these earrings is remarkable. Picture wearing these to dinner parties or the ballet. All eyes will be on you! Condition: Excellent. No rust. One tiny cut steel bead is missing from one of the marquise shaped dangles. No visible to the naked eye. Earring backs are newer and larger – easier to handle. Size: 2 3/4" long from the top, 1 3/4" at widest point.	SOLD!
MJ097	ETERNAL SERPENT ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Snake Brooch / Pin ): This remarkably striking black and white banded agate Mourning Brooch features an 18KT gold plated serpent wrapped around the outer gold circle rim. (c. 1870-80) Beginning with his tail the serpent entwines his body around the black banded agate in gradually wider coils ending with his large head resting upon the top of the agate. Such a wonderful face! The snake has his mouth open and you can see his forked tongue. The serpent is probably the best known and most successful motif drawn from the animal world. Beloved by Queen Victoria, the snake symbolized love, eternity, rebirth, immortality and wisdom. (And you thought it was just a slimy reptile!) This combination – snake and agate – was frequently worn as memorial jewelry. On the back is a circular compartment designed to hold a photo or hair memento under the glass cover. (This compartment can be removed if you choose to enclose a personal memorial.) The original C clasp closure is in place. Regal, yet simple, these snake memorial pieces are highly desirable and a great favorite with collectors. This is a large, majestic brooch that will be hard to top! Condition: Excellent. Size: 1 5/8” diameter, 3/4" deep.	$725.00
VJ182	LIONS & TIGERS & BEARS! ( Victorian Jewelry Tiger Claw Brooch / Pin ): Tigers are native only to countries of the Asian continent. These magnificent beasts of valor are a living symbol of strength and power that inspire fear and respect. It is fitting that the claws and teeth of the Tiger have been revered and worn as amulets throughout the ages. Fierce and fabulous, this antique 15KT yellow gold brooch encases a large natural Tiger Claw. (c. 1860-70) A gold nugget rests on top of the hand engraved, beaded wire work cap. At the time it was crafted, gold nuggets representative of the American gold rush of the 1850’s and 1860’s were used in jewelry. A stamped golden lion figural rides the curve of the claw. I have seen these claws featuring tigers, elephants and giraffes as additional ornamentation. The back features the original C clasp closure and a replacement pin stem. When the British ruled India, the “great white hunters” sent “Raj” jewelry home to Victorian England as mementos of their hunting expertise. Exotic and intriguing, claw jewelry lets the imagination wander into the mysterious and wonderful land of India. Condition: Excellent. Due to the organic nature of the claw, there are natural variations in color. Size: Large, just shy of 2” high, with the lion figural 1 3/8” wide, 1/4” deep.	SOLD!
VJ184	RAJ CAT CLAW EARRINGS ( Victorian Jewelry Raj Claw Earrings ): The period of English rule in India, from 1858 until 1947, has become known as the British Raj. All manner of jewelry was produced in India and marketed to the British. Exotic and intriguing, this pair of Victorian Cat Claw Earrings – most likely those of a Bengal Tiger – are inset into a jacket of 9KT gold. (c. 1890) The gold has been skillfully engraved with scroll work. The curve of the claw is incased in gold and each tip ends in a golden orb. The claws are suspended from chain links of gold and retain the original shepard’s hook pierced ear wires ornamented with an orb of gold. When you move your head these earrings “dance” in your ears. Collectors have made these Antique Indian mounted claws all the rage in Fashion again. High end costume jewelry designers, like Kenneth Jay Lane, have recreated the look of these delicate earrings for today’s market. Earrings are much rarer than the claw pins and these dainty mementos are an unforgettable example of the Victorian quest for the exotic. Condition: Excellent. Hallmarked “9C” gold. There is some drying of the claws due to their organic nature. Size: Small. From orb on ear wire to bottom of claw 1 1/4" long, 5/8” wide, 1/8” deep. Claw alone is 7/8” long.	$300.00
VJ183	TIMELESS FLASH & FIRE GARNETS ( Victorian Jewelry Bohemian Garnet Brooch / Pin ): The history and mystery of garnets is, I believe, part of their charm. Garnet is the birth stone for January, but desired by all collectors of Victorian Jewelry. The stone received its name from the Latin word for pomegranate because it reminded early scientists of pomegranate seeds. The 19th Century was the peak of Bohemian Garnet Jewelry – mined from the mountains of Bohemia (present-day western Czech Republic). Placed closely together, the garnets produced a brighter and a deeper color than when set singularly. So it is with this fiery Victorian Antique Brooch, set with a marvelous raised cluster of garnets upon garnets. (c. 1870) Circular in form the deep wine garnet stones are placed in a tier five layers deep, producing a highly domed effect of brilliantly flashing garnets. The small stones are faceted rounds dominated by six large cabochon garnets. The gems are all closed back and, as is characteristic for this type of jewelry, have all been set into rose gold gilt over silver (commonly referred to as “garnet gold”). The reverse of this timeless brooch has an early replacement safety clasp closure and a replacement pin stem. During the Victorian era, Western cultures believed that garnets would enrich the blood and provide the wearer with a long & healthy life. Highly coveted by collectors, this is a dazzling, sparkling example of antique garnet jewelry at its best. Condition: Excellent. You can see the natural inclusions within the large garnets. Size: 1 3/8” in diameter, raised 1/2" high.	$350.00
VJ106	ANTIQUE TRIBAL SILVER AND CARNELIAN SEAL PENDANT: A heavy silver and carnelian Antique Tribal Seal. (c. 1880-1910) The silver work is a heavy combination of stamp work and engraving. The large circular top is solid metal, not hollow work. The large block of Carnelian is a rich rust brown color. It is believed that Carnelian encourages brotherhood among all. It protects against envy, fear and rage - and helps banish sorrow. It can assist in drama and theatre and promotes creativity and individuality. This antique seal is probably a Turkoman piece. Turkomans are the majority population of current Turkmenistan (Central Asia) and are widely recognized for their decorative ornaments. This seal has a black cord threaded through it for wear as a pendant. The original owner would have worn it close to him since it was used to sign and seal personal letters and agreements. Condition: Excellent. There is a natural fissure in the carnelian that appears to be original to the piece. It is polished smooth to the feel and was there when I bought it. Size: 3 1/2” long; the silver ball is 1 1/4” wide and 1” deep; the square base is 3/4” wide & deep. The cord is 42” long. It can be tied and cut at any length you choose.	SOLD!
VJ179	THE BIGGEST & THE BEST of RAJ ( Victorian Jewelry Tiger Claw Brooch / Pin ): This is the largest and most stunning example of a “Raj” Antique Tiger Claw Brooch that I have ever seen. (c.1870-80) In 1876 Queen Victoria was proclaimed Empress of India. That British period of rule, from 1858 until 1947, has come to be known as the British Raj and it has gifted us with an exotic legacy – the style of jewelry known as Raj. The “Great White Hunters” made their mark on fashion by sending home claws and teeth set in gold as mementos of their hunting expertise. At that time there was no concern that the seemingly endless supply of birds and animals would ever become endangered. Set in marked 18KT gold, with gold chasing and engraving, the focal point of this huge claw is a song bird worked in repoussé. The bird is perched on a branch that holds oak leaves (a symbol of victory) and I’m guessing that the trumpet shaped flowers are morning glories (symbolizing the brevity of life). The bird is looking at what appears to be a stylized nest with a single egg in it. This amazing claw brooch was undoubtedly mounted in India. The back of the brooch is marked “18CT” and has a silver replacement safety clasp. The equal of any Museum Quality Raj jewelry, this brooch is meant for a true collector of the mysterious and exotic. Condition: Excellent. There is some drying of the claw due to its organic nature. Size: Extremely large, just shy of 2" high, with the tip 2” wide, the gold top 1 1/8" wide, 1/4" deep.	$1200.00
VJ178	ARTS & CRAFTS POOL of LIGHT ( Art Nouveau/Arts & Crafts Jewelry Silver “Pool of Light” Necklace ): “Pools of Light” or “Gypsy beads”, as they are sometimes called, are clear quartz crystal orbs. A real treasure, this necklace from the Arts & Crafts period (c. 1920-30) holds a large silver caged sphere suspended from a long hand crafted silver chain. The practitioners of the Arts & Crafts Movement re-interpreted the past. In jewelry the intrinsic value of the materials was of secondary importance to design and workmanship. These “pools of light” are believed to be a product of Mount Fujiyama in Japan. When the mount erupted in springtime these crystal balls found their way into stream beds where over the years they were polished as they journeyed over pebbles into the foothill river beds. Finally they were polished to perfection in the lapidary shops of Kofu. Traditionally they have been treasured – especially by the Chinese who believe that luck resides in the inner recesses of these orbs. “Pools” were never drilled because it was believed that drilling allowed the good luck to pour out of the crystal. The supply of these wonderful crystals seemed to exhaust itself in the 1930’s. This silver link, ball and wirework designed chain slips over your head and has a spring ring that attaches to the pool of light. A wonderfully versatile necklace, you can take off the orb and use the chain it to wear another pendant or wear the crystal orb alone. It is difficult to photograph these pools – they appear grayish in photos. Against the skin, or other hues, they take on a rainbow of guises. Alive with vibrancy of another era, I can picture Isadora Duncan wearing this necklace as she danced in the moonlight. A special treasure for a special lady. You will love it! Condition: Excellent. Size: Orb is 1” in diameter, chain is 31” long.	$675.00
IV056	THE POWER OF HONOR AND VICTORY ( Victorian Jewelry Ivory Cross Pendant ): This deeply hand carved Antique Ivory Cross Pendant combines two of the most potent symbols of Victorian culture – the cross of Christian Faith and oak leaves with acorns symbolizing longevity, honor and victory. (c. 1860-80) This powerful cross has rounded, veined oak leaves carved with fully rounded acorns, textured caps and pointed tips. At the center of the arms of the cross is a carved heart symbolizing the love of God and the center of the soul. The high quality of the carving indicates that it was probably done in the city of Dieppe, France – the center of ivory carvers. The cross is in flawless condition with the mellow warm patina of age and visible graining, shown on our close-up photo of the heart, a leaf and an acorn. I like the fact that this is a wearable work of a master carver’s art. The bale is carved from the same piece of Ivory as the pendant – just add a fine chain. Ivory has become scarce and highly collectible. Crosses are currently high fashion accessories, but this one will never go out of style and can be passed on to future generations. Quality is always the best buy! Condition: Excellent. Size: Including bale 3 3/4" high, 2” wide and 5/8” deep.	$500.00
VJ177	BANDS OF BEAUTY ( Victorian Jewelry Banded Agate Earrings ): One of my favorite Victorian stones is Banded Agate, a variety of quartz. These large, highly polished black and white agate earrings (with just a bit of dark chocolate) are a matched set with bands of white running through the orbs. The top bead is a bit smaller than the bottom bead, making a lovely balanced pair of pierced earrings. (English, c. 1860-80) There are small black beads above and between the banded agate spheres. The metal findings are Sterling Silver with the ear wires being a later, but appropriate, replacement. The stark simplicity of banded agate has made these earrings a timeless example of understated elegance. Perfect with casual wear or velvet for today’s woman of style. Condition: Excellent. A few minor scuffs of wear. Size: From the top of the ear wires 2 1/2" long, top bead 5/8” diameter, bottom bead 3/4".	$325.00
VJ175	ANOTHER ANGEL GETS HER WINGS ( Victorian Jewelry Ivory Portrait Miniature / Pendant ): Originally purchased in London, this is one of the most haunting and poignant portrait miniatures I have come upon. She is simply an angel. (c. 1900) Hand painted on Ivory, her face is magnificent. Her blue eyes seem to gaze in the distance and her lips are sweetly closed. Fine blonde curls cascade down to her slight shoulders, giving the effect of being surrounded by light. Dainty hands are posed holding white robes draped around her and upon her beautifully painted hands she wears a tiny gold ring on her right middle finger. The symbols of the blue sky background, the wearing of the robes which flow about her like billowing clouds and the arrangement of her hands suggest that she is deceased. Gone but Not Forgotten. An irresistible image that will touch your heart. The portrait is set in an 18KT rose gold frame held with four pins and the back is covered in green velvet. There is a lovely wide bale for a chain. I can not find a signature, but this is clearly the work of a skilled artist. Amazingly, the original antique traveling case with a beige velvet bed and beige silk interior lining survives. The case is made of wood covered by dark brown leather. The leather on the front is cracked and the silk frayed – as shown in the photos. I can only imagine the grieving mother or father who constantly kept this reminder at hand, even when traveling. Not lost but gone before-she is simply an angel. Condition: Portrait and setting are excellent. The case shows the wear of time. Size: Portrait is 2 5/8” high, 2” wide, 1/4” deep.	$1500.00
VJ173	ROYAL GREYHOUND ( Victorian Jewelry Greyhound Fob / Pendant ): Victorians loved their dogs – lap dogs or working dogs, sight hounds or scent hounds. Greyhounds are also known as sight hounds because they hunt by speed and sight. Royalty bet vast sums on the outcome of a day race and kept Italian greyhounds in their households. Exquisitely sculpted in Sterling Silver with a vermeil (gold wash) collar and base, a greyhound, whippet or Italian greyhound has been masterfully modeled in a sitting position. Realistically rendered, musculature and anatomy are without question that of a sight hound. He is captured turning his head as if he has just heard his name called. He has one paw lifted and his tail is charmingly wrapped around his leg. There is a ring on his engraved collar, large enough to pass a chain through. The deep reddish brown oval carnelian fob base is engraved with the name “Eugine Amphoux”. (c. 1880) The striking combination of colors – silver, gold and carnelian – is elegant and regal. Outstanding in its entirety, this antique fob/pendant is a masterpiece of the jeweler’s art. Medium to large in scale, this Victorian greyhound fob/pendant is eye catching and full of wonderful character. Won’t you please adopt this appealing greyhound and give him a “forever” home? Condition: Excellent. No chips. Size: 1 ½” high, oval carnelian base is 1 ½” long, 1” wide.	$800.00
IV055	REGAL AFRICAN QUEEN ( Vintage Bone Black African Jewelry Pin / Brooch): I am pleased to offer this dramatic hand carved bone brooch of a handsome African Woman. (c. 1920) It has been in my personal collection of ethnic jewelry for years. The lavish and intricate carving make this bone brooch almost as valuable one carved from ivory. Notice the fine work on her hair style and the magnificent jewelry she wears, including her grand earrings. This brooch was sold to me as a French piece but it could well be African due to the amount of detail in costume and hair style. You can clearly see the distinctive bone markings on the back of this portrait of a Black Woman. There is a riveted C clasp closure original to the piece. Outstanding in its entirety, this timeless beauty is extravagant in its size and workmanship. A “killer” brooch – wearing it will make you feel like a Queen! Condition: Excellent. No chips. Size: 2 ¾” high, 1 ¾” wide ¼” deep.	$300.00
VJ131	SHIMMERING BLUE BELLE ÉPOQUE ( Edwardian Jewelry Guilloché Locket ): This superb Edwardian shimmering blue guilloché locket is simply the largest and most stunning piece of its kind that I have seen. (c. 1890-1920) Only a confident lady of the Belle Époque era would have worn this large Sterling Silver Stunner. The technique of guilloché enamel features an engraved decoration of geometric design achieved by engine turning. When used as a base for translucent enamel it creates a shimmering effect. The intense deep blue of this locket provides an opulent background for the “garland style” – hand painted pink and pale yellow roses that circle the border of this oval antique locket. Swags of leaves have been painted above the central bouquet of mixed roses. There are tiny gold dot accents on the locket front. The back of the locket is also deep blue enamel over a wave pattern emanating from the center. The good sized pendant ring is marked “935 M” and the pendant itself is jeweler tested as Sterling. The locket interior contains its original inserts and celluloid covers, which have yellowed with time. The hinged closure is firm and tight. These guilloché lockets have become a favorite with collectors. The more complex the design and the more colors used, the more highly the piece is valued. This rich and sumptuous locket will linger in your mind. It is an unforgettable example of Belle Époque extravagance. Condition: Excellent. A few surface scratches visible only under magnification. Size: 2 1/4” high, 1 3/4” wide.	$725.00
CA093	BIRD’S EYE VIEW ( Victorian Jewelry Bird Shell Cameo Brooch/Pin ): I fell in love with this irresistible Antique Bird Shell Cameo Brooch. (c. 1900) I have not seen any thing like it before. Great detail and master carving are the hallmarks of this unusual and charming portrait of nature. The bird seems to be studying the little bug at its feet. The feathered wings are spread and the total focus of the head and beak are poised to grab the tasty insect treat. The rest of the shell is hand carved with a multitude of various flowers and leaves. Parts of the shell have been totally carved away, leaving openings, to set off the bird. His wings and feathers are intricately carved – notice his eyes and tiny feet. Even the insect is clearly visible, looking much like a housefly. The colored portions of the shell perfectly highlight the portrait. An unusual gold-filled basket weave frame sets off the entire bezel set cameo. There is a C clasp closure. The cameo sits very high off of its base, as you can see in the side view. If you are a bird collector or love unusual cameos, this is a great addition to your collection. Condition: Excellent. Size: 2” high 1 5/8” wide, 3/8” deep. Shell carving is 1 9/16” high, 1 3/8” wide.	$450.00
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