Judy Jay's

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--Last Updated: 04/10/2008 --


Victorian & Ivory Jewelry

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Item: Description: Price:

IV050

 THE FAITHFUL PROMISE OF LOYALTY ( Victorian Jewelry Ivory Cross Pendant ): This heavily carved Antique Ivory Cross (c. 1850-70) combines two of the most potent symbols of Victorian culture – the cross of Christian faith and leaves of ivy symbolizing loyalty and fidelity. A promise to a lover, or beloved friend, given to last a life time. This sturdy cross has been carved to resemble tree bark; even the tips appear wood grained. Intricate vines of ivy entwine over the entire cross, wrapping it in an eternal promise. The high quality of the carving indicates that it was probably made in France. It is in flawless condition with a warm patina of age. I like the fact that this is a wearable work of art. It is sturdy enough to enjoy wearing it often, just add a fine chain. Crosses are very fashionable now but this one can never go out of style. Instead of costume jewelry, buy the best and pass it on for generations. Quality is always the best buy! Condition: Excellent. Sterling Silver split ring has been added so that the cross hangs correctly. Size: 3 1/8” high including the attached ring. The cross alone is 2 7/8” high, 1 3/4” wide, 1/4” deep $275.00

CA093

 BIRD’S EYE VIEW ( Victorian Jewelry Bird Shell Cameo Brooch/Pin ): I fell in love with this irresistible Antique Bird Shell Cameo Brooch. (c. 1900) I have not seen any thing like it before. Great detail and master carving are the hallmarks of this unusual and charming portrait of nature. The bird seems to be studying the little bug at its feet. The feathered wings are spread and the total focus of the head and beak are poised to grab the tasty insect treat. The rest of the shell is hand carved with a multitude of various flowers and leaves. Parts of the shell have been totally carved away, leaving openings, to set off the bird. His wings and feathers are intricately carved – notice his eyes and tiny feet. Even the insect is clearly visible, looking much like a housefly. The colored portions of the shell perfectly highlight the portrait. An unusual gold-filled basket weave frame sets off the entire bezel set cameo. There is a C clasp closure. The cameo sits very high off of its base, as you can see in the side view. If you are a bird collector or love unusual cameos, this is a great addition to your collection. Condition: Excellent. Size: 2” high 1 5/8” wide, 3/8” deep. Shell carving is 1 9/16” high, 1 3/8” wide. $450.00

VJ164

 MEMENTO OF THE HUNT ( Victorian Jewelry Tiger Claw Brooch / Pin ): One of the many seemingly odd Victorian traits was their unending appetite for exotic jewelry from exotic places. This wonderful silver Antique Double Tiger’s Claw Brooch illustrates the rage for items from India. In 1876 Queen Victoria was proclaimed the Empress of India, so it is not surprising that Mogul jewelry and elaborately set tiger claws made their appearance. The “Great White Hunters” made their mark on fashion – jewelry was frequently sent home as a memento of their hunting expertise. At that time there was no concern that the seemingly endless supply of birds and animals would ever become endangered. This double tiger’s claw brooch was made in India using a thick silver ornate edged mounting that covers the inside curve of the claws and ends in silver ball tips. (c. 1880) Beautifully designed, the back is engraved “J.A.F.M.” and retains its original C clasp closure. This sleek and dramatic brooch is an unforgettable example of the Victorian quest for the exotic. Condition: Excellent. A natural drying of the 125 year old claws. Size: 2 ½” wide, 2” high, ¼” deep. $300.00

VJ165

 FIERY STARBURST GARNETS ( Victorian Jewelry Garnet Pendant / Brooch / Pin ) The history and mystery of garnets is, I believe, part of their charm. Garnet is the birth stone for January, but desired by all collectors of Victorian Jewelry. The stone received its name from the Latin word for pomegranate because it reminded early scientists of pomegranate seeds. This wonderful Victorian Bohemian garnet brooch with drop delights the eye with its large and small starburst designs. (c. 1890) The large top section is four layers deep, which adds to the flash and sparkle. The stones are cut in both faceted tear drops and tiny faceted rounds. The deep wine pyrope garnets are set in low karat rose gold known as “garnet gold”. The brooch has a gold filled bale and jump ring added at some later time so that it could be worn as a pendant. (Easily removed by a jeweler if desired.) It appears that the shimmering drop was added to the brooch – a terrific embellishment! There is a C clasp pin closure. During the Victorian era, Western cultures believed that garnets would enrich the blood and provide the wearer with a long & healthy life. Highly coveted by collectors, this is a dazzling, sparkling example of antique garnet jewelry at its best. Condition: Excellent. No stones missing. Size: The entire brooch measures 2 ½” long, 1 ½” wide & ½” deep. $450.00

VJ162

DOUBLE BUCKLE BEAUTY ( Victorian Jewelry Sterling Buckle Locket ): One of the best Antique Buckle Lockets I have ever seen, this beauty comes from my personal collection. Oh, how the Victorians loved “message” jewelry. This irresistible English Sterling Silver double strap and buckle locket sent the message “we go together” or “you make me complete”. The buckle theme was used as both a lover’s pledge and a friendship token. Silver jewelry regained favor in the waning years of the 19th Century and these pieces of message jewelry were all the rage. (c. 1880-90) Imbued with unity and harmony, the front of this locket is engraved with ivy foliage designs probably marking a close friendship. The edges are deep cut scallops and decorative wire twists frame the two applied buckles. The multiple British assay marks on the flat back (the “lion passant” is the symbol for Sterling Silver, the “anchor” the assay mark for Birmingham) confirm the desirability of this piece. The makers mark reads “J & F. S”. The inside retains its photo liners and celluloid covers awaiting photos or a remembrance keepsake. It is also marked with the symbol for Sterling Silver and snaps closed securely. The good sized and thick bale (marked with the “lion” Sterling Silver mark) will accommodate a nice sized chain or neck wire collar. This beautifully crafted locket with its enduring appeal is as wearable today as it was over a century ago. From Ralph Lauren to the pages of "Elle" magazine, the timeless beauty of lockets like this one will always look classic and chic. Condition: Excellent. Some fine scratches – they are antique, too, and not visible to the naked eye. Size: Including bale 2 ½” high, 1 ½” wide, ½” deep. $725.00

VJ161

DEER CAPTURED IN MINIATURE ( Victorian Jewelry Ivory / Bone Deer Brooch / Pin ): It was a pleasure to find this magnificent large late Victorian brooch featuring an oval bone nature scene. (c. 1880) The hand carved bone scene looks like a miniature sculpture in which a stag, with delicate antlers, is seated in a woodland landscape accompanied by his mate, who has her head turned as if alerted by some sound in the forest. Notice her dainty legs and ears. The entire scene is enclosed in a garland of finely carved branches. (Probably carved in Germany where craftsman were well known for these scenic treasures.) Covered by a glass dome, this homage to nature remains frozen in time. The lavish and complex mount displays hand etching on the bottom edge and a bold design of scallops and gold balls surround the bezel set carved bone deer oval. The setting is gold plated with an enclosed back, C clasp and Victorian elongated pin stem. (The ring is for a safety chain.) This Antique Deer Brooch is unusually desirable because it has two deer pictured. Sure to get plenty of attention, this brooch is a marvel of craftsmanship. It looks striking on all colors and is a memorable reminder of the Victorian passion for nature. Condition: Excellent. There is the usual microscopic dust not visible to the naked eye. Size: 2 ½” wide, 2” high, ½” deep. SOLD!

VJ159

DELICATE PEACOCK EYE RING ( Arts & Crafts Jewelry Peacock Eye Sterling Silver Ring ): This seductive “Peacock Eye” Ring is the embodiment of the Arts & Crafts Movement. (c. 1890-1920) The peacock eye motif was associated with the Aesthetic Movement that included the Pre-Raphaelites of the art world. You can see peacock feathers in many of their exquisite medieval style paintings. The practitioners of the Arts & Crafts Movement were revivalists of a sort, but they re-interpreted the past. They rebelled against the excesses of Victorian ornamentation. In jewelry the intrinsic values of the materials was of secondary importance to design and workmanship. Most Arts & Crafts artisans preferred silver to gold and cabochon cut gemstones to faceted ones. This dazzling blue and green “peacock eye” is hand crafted foiled glass. There is currently a growing interest in the Arts & Crafts style and principals. These “peacock eye” pieces are in high demand and difficult to find. I love their unique iridescent shine and intense colors. This is the first Sterling Silver mounted peacock eye ring I have had. (Marked “Sterling”) The oval domed “eye” is bezel set high above the mount. The top and bottom of the setting is decorated with delicate forget-me-not flowers. The triple split shank band features tiny markings almost like squares, perhaps miniature snake scales. The ring band is the thin, but could be sized. This Antique Peacock Eye Ring is a ring size 6 1/4. Delicate, almost lace like in appearance, this ring is a rare treasure. A special ring for a lady looking for an authentic Arts & Crafts Period jewel. Condition: Excellent. No chips. Size: 1” high, 1/2” wide, 1/4 ” deep. The center “eye” measures 3/4 ” high, 3/8” wide. This is a ring size 6 1/4. $375.00

IV048

THE QUEEN’S FLOWER ( Victorian Jewelry Ivory / Bone Hand Brooch / Pin ): I’ve seen many of these Victorian “Hand” Brooches, but never one of this striking beauty. (c. 1840-60) The workmanship on this piece is exquisite! The entire brooch is hand carved from bone and has a soft silky ivory colored patina. A delicate hand clasps a nosegay of forget-me-nots and a single edelweiss blossom. I have never seen an edelweiss blossom used this way before. Surely this Antique Hand Brooch was carved in Germany. Edelweiss is a rare European mountain flower. The name comes from the German “Edel” meaning “Noble” and “Weiss” meaning “White”. White is a symbol of purity and this star-like flower is known as “The Queen’s Flower”. The slender fingers are carved in delicate detail and the lace cuff is extremely dimensional with carved ruffles and eyelet-like piercings. The back retains its original C clasp closure. A perfect gift of love or friendship. Best of all a timeless gift of history to give to yourself. Condition: Very good. Loss of tiny tip of one leaf near cuff. Possible chip to little finger. These signs of age are not noticeable in actual size. I mention them for total accuracy. Size: 2” long, 1” high, 1/4“ deep. $275.00

VJ156

TAJ MAHAL – THE JEWEL OF INDIA ( Victorian Jewelry Taj Mahal Ivory Portrait Miniature Brooch ): I am offering a gorgeous Antique Brooch from my personal collection. It is a large sumptuous painted ivory view of the Taj Mahal, India’s most famous architectural wonder. (c. 1880) The Taj was commissioned by Emperor Shah Jahan in memory of his beloved wife. As a tribute to a beautiful woman and as a monument for enduring love, construction began in 1631 and was completed in 22 years. Within the onion shaped dome lies the jewel inlaid cenotaph of the queen. The beauty of this brooch is enhanced by the addition of the large reflection pool, luscious greenery and puffy clouds floating in a blue sky. The Taj is so delicately painted that it has an almost lace-like quality. The ivory miniature is bezel set high above the ornate engraved, jeweler tested 10KT gold setting. Once India became part of the British Empire Victorians flocked to India to see this highlight of their “grand tour”. The painted miniatures were brought home and mounted extravagantly in London. Both the front and back are covered with beveled glass and the back of the painting contains a compartment where a photo or hair memento could be placed. The elongated pin stem may be an early replacement. The closure is a C clasp with an extra curl that acts like a safety clasp. The tiny ring at the top is where a safety chain was attached. All of the romance you could possibly want, this brooch would be a treasured part of any collection. What a perfect gift of Love! Condition: Excellent. A touch of dust under the glass and a tiny nibble to the glass cover at 3 o’clock – not visible to the naked eye. The colors are fresh and vivid. Size: Entire brooch 2 5/8” wide, 2 1/8” high, 5/8” deep. Painting is 1 7/8” wide 1 1/2“ high. $475.00

VJ155

LUSTROUS TORTOISESHELL CRESCENT ( Victorian Jewelry Tortoiseshell Brooch / Pin ): This dazzling designed Victorian brooch is made of polished Tortoiseshell. (c. 1870) The Victorians were very fond of Tortoise and used it for hair ornaments, combs, brushes, fans and small boxes – as well as jewelry. Tortoiseshell is molded using heat and then polished. It was considered appropriate for mourning after Prince Albert’s death. Most common in jewelry were lustrous-feeling chains, lockets, earrings and brooch sets. This large inverted crescent has graduated beading along the top curve. There is a long drop that dangles from the inside of a beaded edge horseshoe shape. The drop at the bottom has been hand carved. The pin back has a C clasp closure. Nature’s palette is combined with a classical design to produce this captivating Antique Victorian Brooch. Condition: Excellent. Size: Entire brooch hangs 3 ½” long, 2 ¼” wide. Dangle drop chain is 2” long. Crescent is ¼” deep. $400.00

VJ149

I GIVE YOU MY HEART ( Victorian Jewelry Sterling Snake Brooch / Pin ): This is simply one of the best Victorian snake brooches that I have ever seen. Large and finely detailed, this serpent carries a cobalt blue enamel heart in his mouth. (c. 1860-80) A powerful symbol of love, the snake was celebrated by Victorians who followed the example set by Queen Victoria. Her passionate husband, Prince Albert, gave her many pieces of jewelry featuring the snake motif – including her engagement ring. This captivating Antique Sterling Silver Snake twists and turns in undulating loops. Every scale is deeply engraved. His beautifully formed head has bezel set garnet eyes. Unlike many of these talismans of love, this brooch still retains its original blue enamel heart, set with a tiny half pearl. In profile you can see that the snake has an open mouth. The back has a replacement C clasp closure. (There are scratch marks on the back from previous owners testing the silver.) I have not polished it since I’ve had it because I love the rich look of the scales. Grand in size, this snake brooch is a seductive and alluring work of the jeweler’s art. The essence of the 19th Century is yours to touch, hold and treasure for another lifetime. Condition: Excellent. There is a tiny pinhole at the top of the silver on the back of the heart. It does not show when wearing the brooch. Size: 3” wide, loops are 1 1/4” high & 3/8” deep. Heart is 1/2” high & wide, 1/4” deep. $725.00

VJ145

SWIRLS OF AGATE IN LACE ( Victorian Jewelry Agate Earrings ): Light and delicate, these stunning Victorian Banded Agate Earrings speak of romance and refinement. (c. 1880-1900) Torpedo shaped drops are dramatized by the use of agate with intricate patterns of swirls and striking natural layered banding in subtle shades of chocolate, taupe and white. Please note that the agate was cut to form a match between the two earrings. At the rounded ends of the drops you can actually see the natural crystallization within the stone. The agate rounds at the top both display vertical stripes. Delicate lacelike 14KT frames with engraved scrolls and curls form the perfect setting for these seductive and alluring earrings. The agate drops are free swinging within their frames. The pierced ear backs with safety clasps go into your ear from the front and they snap closed. Unabashedly feminine, both the luscious color pattern and shape of these earrings harmonize to form a perfect balance of beauty in concert. Condition: Excellent. All original. Size: 2 ¼” long, ¾” at widest point. $1100.00

VJ144

ARTS & CRAFTS PEACOCK EYE NECKLACE ( Arts & Crafts Jewelry Peacock Eye Necklace ): This rare peacock eye bead necklace is a treasure from a recent buying trip. It is the embodiment of the Arts & Crafts Movement. (c. 1890-1920) The practitioners of the Arts & Crafts Movement were revivalists of a sort, but they re-interpreted the past. They rebelled against the excesses of Victorian ornamentation. In jewelry the intrinsic value of the materials was of secondary importance to design and workmanship. Most Arts & Crafts artisans preferred silver to gold and cabochon cut gem stones to faceted ones. These dazzling blue and green Peacock Eye irregular shaped beads are hand crafted foiled glass. Seven shimmering beads are strung together on a bronze colored foxtail chain. There are hand-tied knots on each side of the Peacock Eye beads and the necklace closure is a spring ring clasp. The bronze colored chain is an unusual, but perfect compliment, to the blue and green eyes. There is currently a huge revival of interest in the Arts & Crafts style. These “Peacock Eye” pieces are scarce and in high demand. I love their unique iridescent shine and intense colors. Wear them with denim or silk – for work or play. Condition: Excellent. The spring ring clasp may be a replacement. Size: Total length of necklace is 31 1/2”. It is long enough to wrap twice around your neck, but the full splendor of the beads is best displayed when worn long. Each Peacock Bead is approximately 5/8”. $500.00

VJ142

RADIANT GEORGIAN GARNETS ( Georgian Jewelry Garnet & Pearl Brooch / Pin ): Shimmering deep red garnets encrust the surface of this late Georgian leaf shaped brooch. Detail is certainly key to Georgian jewelry and this c. 1820 brooch is all about detail! The entire leaf is curved and dimensional with graduated tiny pearls forming the center veins on each leaf. The tiny pearls continue up the stem of the leaf. The multi-sized garnets are all faceted to add sheer brilliance. Nature themes have been popular throughout the ages and this leaf shape is both elegant and opulent. The workmanship is extremely fine and the piece is probably English in origin. The closed back setting is silver with a light gold wash. The entire back is covered with an elaborate chased design and retains its original C clasp closure. Garnets are the January birthstone and you won’t find a lovelier brooch – the radiance and glow of garnets is incomparable. Flashes of red contrasted with the pearls makes this on of the most captivating garnet pieces that we have had the pleasure of offering. Condition: Excellent and all original. No stones missing. Size: Leaf is 2 1/4” high, 2” wide and curves 1/2” deep. $675.00

VJ137

TASTE FOR THE FAR EAST ( Victorian Jewelry Coral Earrings ): The “Grand Period” of Victorian jewelry (c. 1861-80) found Revivalism in full swing. International exhibitions whetted appetites for jewelry from exotic places. You could see mogul jewelry from India, gold mounted tiger claws, Egyptian scarabs, carved nuts from Australia, Etruscan style ornaments and influences from the orient – Japan & China. With hairstyles changed to once again reveal the ear, earrings returned, growing in size and popularity. Of Chinese origin, these bright and colorful coral bead earrings will light up your face. Many tiny, hand cut and polished coral beads have been strung with coral colored thread over a lightweight round core, until they resemble tiny pomegranates. The setting is gilt gold retaining all of its shine and richness of color. Shepherd’s hook ear wires are used to make these exotic “ear bobs” dance in your ears. A fascinating and beautifully crafted pair of earrings to delight a new century. Condition: Excellent. Size: 2” long from top of hook, coral encrusted ball is 3/4” in diameter. $275.00
 

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