Judy Jay's

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jjay@timedancesby.com


Phone: 210-690-8454

--Last Updated: 06/30/2009 --


Victorian & Ivory Jewelry

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Item: Description: Price:

VJ175

 ANOTHER ANGEL GETS HER WINGS ( Victorian Jewelry Ivory Portrait Miniature ): Originally purchased in London, this is one of the most haunting and poignant portrait miniatures I have come upon. She is simply an angel. (c. 1900) Hand painted on Ivory, her face is magnificent. Her blue eyes seem to gaze in the distance and her lips are sweetly closed. Fine blonde curls cascade down to her slight shoulders, giving the effect of being surrounded by light. Dainty hands are posed holding white robes draped around her and upon her beautifully painted hands she wears a tiny gold ring on her right middle finger. The symbols of the blue sky background, the wearing of the robes which flow about her like billowing clouds and the arrangement of her hands suggest that she is deceased. Gone but Not Forgotten. An irresistible image that will touch your heart. The portrait is set in an 18KT rose gold frame held with four pins and the back is covered in green velvet. There is a lovely wide bale for a chain. I can not find a signature, but this is clearly the work of a skilled artist. Amazingly, the original antique traveling case with a beige velvet bed and beige silk interior lining survives. The case is made of wood covered by dark brown leather. The leather on the front is cracked and the silk frayed – as shown in the photos. I can only imagine the grieving mother or father who constantly kept this reminder at hand, even when traveling. Not lost but gone before-she is simply an angel.

Condition: Portrait and setting are excellent. The case shows the wear of time.
Size: Portrait is 2 5/8” high, 2” wide, 1/4” deep.
$1500.00

VJ173

 ROYAL GREYHOUND ( Victorian Jewelry Greyhound Fob / Pendant ): Victorians loved their dogs – lap dogs or working dogs, sight hounds or scent hounds. Greyhounds are also known as sight hounds because they hunt by speed and sight. Royalty bet vast sums on the outcome of a day race and kept Italian greyhounds in their households. Exquisitely sculpted in Sterling Silver with a vermeil (gold wash) collar and base, a greyhound, whippet or Italian greyhound has been masterfully modeled in a sitting position. Realistically rendered, musculature and anatomy are without question that of a sight hound. He is captured turning his head as if he has just heard his name called. He has one paw lifted and his tail is charmingly wrapped around his leg. There is a ring on his engraved collar, large enough to pass a chain through. The deep reddish brown oval carnelian fob base is engraved with the name “Eugine Amphoux”. (c. 1880) The striking combination of colors – silver, gold and carnelian – is elegant and regal. Outstanding in its entirety, this antique fob/pendant is a masterpiece of the jeweler’s art. Medium to large in scale, this Victorian greyhound fob/pendant is eye catching and full of wonderful character. Won’t you please adopt this appealing greyhound and give him a “forever” home?

Condition: Excellent. No chips.
Size: 1 ½” high, oval carnelian base is 1 ½” long, 1” wide.
$800.00

IV055

 REGAL AFRICAN QUEEN ( Vintage Bone Black African Jewelry Pin / Brooch): I am pleased to offer this dramatic hand carved bone brooch of a handsome African Woman. (c. 1920) It has been in my personal collection of ethnic jewelry for years. The lavish and intricate carving make this bone brooch almost as valuable one carved from ivory. Notice the fine work on her hair style and the magnificent jewelry she wears, including her grand earrings. This brooch was sold to me as a French piece but it could well be African due to the amount of detail in costume and hair style. You can clearly see the distinctive bone markings on the back of this portrait of a Black Woman. There is a riveted C clasp closure original to the piece. Outstanding in its entirety, this timeless beauty is extravagant in its size and workmanship. A “killer” brooch – wearing it will make you feel like a Queen!

Condition: Excellent. No chips.
Size: 2 ¾” high, 1 ¾” wide ¼” deep.
$300.00

VJ174

 CRYSTAL “POOLS OF LIGHT” ( Vintage Jewelry “Pools of Light” Crystal Necklace ): A real treasure, this quartz crystal and silver necklace (c. 1920) holds a large circular orb known as a “pool of light”. It is believed that the source of these beads is the northern slope of Mount Fujiyama in Japan. They are a product of the mount when it erupts in springtime. The crystals then find their way into the stream beds where, over the years, they are polished as they journey over pebbles into the foothill river beds. Finally they were polished to perfection in the lapidary shops of Kofu. Traditionally they have been treasured – especially by the Chinese who believe that good luck resides in the inner recesses of these orbs. “Pools” were never drilled because it was believed that drilling allowed the good luck to pour out of the crystal. The supply of these wonderful crystals seemed to exhaust itself in the 1930’s.

This silver link necklace from the 1920’s is just a delight. There are 13 faceted crystal beads on a finely worked chain tapering down to the crystal orb. The necklace slips over your head. The “pool of light” itself is encircled by an ornate floral surround made of brass. It is difficult to photograph these orbs – they have a grayish appearance in photos. Against the skin or other hues they take on a rainbow of guises. Alive with the vibrancy of another era, the timeless beauty of this antique necklace dances with light. I can see this necklace at one of Gatsby’s moonlight parties glittering and swinging in the air as the band strikes up another dance tune. You will love it!!

Condition: Excellent. No inclusions, no chips.
Size: Chain is 31” long, “pool of light” is 1” in diameter.
SOLD!

IV053

 FLORA BRINGS SPRING ( Victorian Jewelry Ivory Cameo Pendant ): This breathtaking Victorian hand carved Ivory Cameo of Flora is the perfect way to welcome spring or any other season. (c. 1840-70) The Roman goddess Flora, “mistress of the flowers” symbolizes new life, spring, regeneration and hope. In this large Antique Ivory Cameo portrait the lovely young nymph is adorned with a splendid floral hair piece of roses, forget-me-nots and lilies of the valley. They swirl and travel down to her shoulders. Notice the double strand of perfect ivory beads. From about 1840 to 1870 high-relief work ivory cameos were very fashionable and often brought home from France as gifts from prosperous travelers. Both the grain and patina of the ivory are so lovely and clearly seen in the beautiful photos. Large thick carvings like this were purchased unset and later set in a box top. The holes on the back were drilled so that the Cameo could be pegged into a setting or worn as a brooch. This divine Victorian marvel of carving is facing to the left – most Cameos face right. It requires a master carver to work to the left since it is harder to execute. The setting for this Flora pendant is a sterling silver three claw bezel mount with an oval bale to hold a silver chain. Quality Ivory pieces have become scarce and will only become more rare as collectors covet these Ivory Cameos. Look at the beauty of her facial features and the depth of the carving. This is a Cameo to treasure for a lifetime.

Condition: Excellent. There are no chips to the flowers. The setting is from a later period.
The chain is not included.
Size: 2 1/8” high, 1 1/2” wide, 7/8” deep.
SOLD!

VJ170

VICTORIAN RAGE FOR THE RAJ ( Victorian Jewelry Tiger Claw Pendant ): One of seemingly odd Victorian traits was their unending appetite for exotic jewelry from exotic places. In 1876 Queen Victoria was proclaimed the Empress of India, so it is not surprising that Mogul jewelry and elaborately set tiger claws made their appearance. The “Great White Hunters” made their mark on fashion – jewelry was frequently sent home as a memento of their hunting expertise. At that time there was no concern that the seemingly endless supply of birds and animals would ever become endangered. This double claw pendant is clad in a 9 KT gold setting that follows the contours of the claws and ends in golden orbs at the tips. (c. 1880-1900) The original gold bale is in place. The bale will fit on a thin to medium chain. (The chain in the photo is for display only. It is not for sale.) Collectors have made these Indian mounted claws all the rage in fashion once again. This sleek and eye-catching pendant is an unforgettable example of the Victorian quest for the exotic.

Condition: Excellent. Due to the organic nature of the claw, there are natural variations in color.

Size: 1 3/8” high from bale to claw tips, 1 1/4” wide, just over 1/8” deep.
$400.00

VJ168

SHIMMERING BUTTERFLY TAKES FLIGHT ( Victorian Cut Steel Jewelry Butterfly Brooch / Pin ): This glittering Victorian Cut Steel Butterfly Brooch will make your heart beat faster. (c.1860-80) Cut steel has a long history of its very own admirers – revered in the 17th Century and again quite popular in the Victorian period. Used as an alternative for the look of early cut diamonds, cut steel jewelry is a highly refined process. Each small steel bead or stud is hand cut, faceted, polished and painstakingly riveted onto a metal (typically brass) back piece. Think of the work involved! The Victorian era with its “cult of nature” birds and butterflies took flight as a popular motif in Victorian jewelry. The butterfly symbolizes the soul in resurrection – nothing was ever simple to the Victorians! This enchanting butterfly brooch glimmers and sparkles, creating an almost 3-dimensional effect with its wings in two layers. The back retains its original C clasp and pin stem. Notice all of the rivet work on the back. English or French in origin. Resist the temptation to shade your eyes as the light dances from one facet to the other. (Our photos cannot nearly capture the true effect.) In the last few years Antique Cut Steel Jewelry has gained increasing popularity. Amongst collectors the demand for these pieces is high. Condition: Very good to Excellent. Very small amount of expected patina, no beads missing. Size: 2” wide, 1 ½” high, ¼” deep with wing lift. $425.00

IV051

CLASPED HANDS OF FRIENDSHIP ( Victorian Ivory Jewelry Hand Pendant ): The hand is a recurring romantic symbol in Victorian jewelry. I think that the most beautiful of hands were carved from Antique Ivory. This pendant is actually a seal to be used on letters, but I had a ring added so that you can wear it as a pendant. (c. 1840-60) The message of the hand had a variety of meanings depending on how it was depicted. Clasped hand such as these superbly rendered Victorian Hands symbolized friendship. The elegance of these two hands with carved ruffles at each wrist implies a close bond between these two women, sisters or friends for life. Examine the delicate fingers with tiny fingernails – notice that one of the hands has a tiny carved ring on the first finger. The orb at the bottom is exquisitely rendered with a large floral motif on the bottom. You can clearly see the fine graining of the Ivory on the hands. The Sterling Silver work has detail that it is a pleasure to study. (Including some almost invisible British hallmarks.) The flat silver seal portion has never been engraved. With the addition of the bale loop this small masterpiece of the master carver’s art becomes a wearable treasure for another generation to enjoy. And remember to pass it on! Condition: Excellent. Very clean with no chips. Size: Including bale 3 5/8” long. Carved Ivory portion 2 5/8”. Bale ring has 1/4” opening. Ivory orb at bottom is 3/4” in diameter. $675.00

VJ131

SHIMMERING BLUE BELLE ÉPOQUE ( Edwardian Jewelry Guilloché Locket ): This superb Edwardian shimmering blue guilloché locket is simply the largest and most stunning piece of its kind that I have seen. (c. 1890-1920) Only a confident lady of the Belle Époque era would have worn this large Sterling Silver Stunner. The technique of guilloché enamel features an engraved decoration of geometric design achieved by engine turning. When used as a base for translucent enamel it creates a shimmering effect. The intense deep blue of this locket provides an opulent background for the “garland style” – hand painted pink and pale yellow roses that circle the border of this oval antique locket. Swags of leaves have been painted above the central bouquet of mixed roses. There are tiny gold dot accents on the locket front. The back of the locket is also deep blue enamel over a wave pattern emanating from the center. The good sized pendant ring is marked “935 M” and the pendant itself is jeweler tested as Sterling. The locket interior contains its original inserts and celluloid covers, which have yellowed with time. The hinged closure is firm and tight. These guilloché lockets have become a favorite with collectors. The more complex the design and the more colors used, the more highly the piece is valued. This rich and sumptuous locket will linger in your mind. It is an unforgettable example of Belle Époque extravagance. Condition: Excellent. A few surface scratches visible only under magnification. Size: 2 1/4” high, 1 3/4” wide. $775.00

CA093

BIRD’S EYE VIEW ( Victorian Jewelry Bird Shell Cameo Brooch/Pin ): I fell in love with this irresistible Antique Bird Shell Cameo Brooch. (c. 1900) I have not seen any thing like it before. Great detail and master carving are the hallmarks of this unusual and charming portrait of nature. The bird seems to be studying the little bug at its feet. The feathered wings are spread and the total focus of the head and beak are poised to grab the tasty insect treat. The rest of the shell is hand carved with a multitude of various flowers and leaves. Parts of the shell have been totally carved away, leaving openings, to set off the bird. His wings and feathers are intricately carved – notice his eyes and tiny feet. Even the insect is clearly visible, looking much like a housefly. The colored portions of the shell perfectly highlight the portrait. An unusual gold-filled basket weave frame sets off the entire bezel set cameo. There is a C clasp closure. The cameo sits very high off of its base, as you can see in the side view. If you are a bird collector or love unusual cameos, this is a great addition to your collection. Condition: Excellent. Size: 2” high 1 5/8” wide, 3/8” deep. Shell carving is 1 9/16” high, 1 3/8” wide. $450.00

VJ171

BRITISH RAJ LEGACY ( Victorian Jewelry Tiger Claw Brooch / Pin ): In 1876 Queen Victoria was proclaimed Empress of India. British colonization of India began with the transfer of control from the East India Company to that of the British government. That period of rule, from 1858 until 1947, has come to be known as the British Raj and it has gifted us with an exotic legacy – the style of jewelry know as Raj. The “Great White Hunters” made their mark on fashion jewelry which was frequently sent home as mementos of their hunting expertise. In this feminine and appealing double Antique Tiger Claw brooch the regal claws are clad in 9KT rose gold jackets. Each claw has rose gold orbs at the tip. The reverse reveals the original riveted hinge and pin stem with an early safety clasp replacement. The brooch is British or Raj Indian in origin. (c. 1900-1910) Included is a lovely dark blue leather box with gold embossed motif and a spring catch. It is in excellent condition and appears to be original to the brooch. The satin interior of the box reads “Penlington & Batty, Diamond Merchants, Liverpool & Manchester.” Above that is their crown & anchor hallmark with a banner stating “WATCHMAKERS TO THE ADMIRALTY”.

Condition: Excellent.

Size: 2” wide, 7/8” high. Each claw is 1 1/2” long, 1/8” deep.
$325.00

VJ165

FIERY STARBURST GARNETS ( Victorian Jewelry Garnet Pendant / Brooch / Pin ) The history and mystery of garnets is, I believe, part of their charm. Garnet is the birth stone for January, but desired by all collectors of Victorian Jewelry. The stone received its name from the Latin word for pomegranate because it reminded early scientists of pomegranate seeds. This wonderful Victorian Bohemian garnet brooch with drop delights the eye with its large and small starburst designs. (c. 1890) The large top section is four layers deep, which adds to the flash and sparkle. The stones are cut in both faceted tear drops and tiny faceted rounds. The deep wine pyrope garnets are set in low karat rose gold known as “garnet gold”. The brooch has a gold filled bale and jump ring added at some later time so that it could be worn as a pendant. (Easily removed by a jeweler if desired.) It appears that the shimmering drop was added to the brooch – a terrific embellishment! There is a C clasp pin closure. During the Victorian era, Western cultures believed that garnets would enrich the blood and provide the wearer with a long & healthy life. Highly coveted by collectors, this is a dazzling, sparkling example of antique garnet jewelry at its best. Condition: Excellent. No stones missing. Size: The entire brooch measures 2 ½” long, 1 ½” wide & ½” deep. SOLD!

VJ159

DELICATE PEACOCK EYE RING ( Arts & Crafts Jewelry Peacock Eye Sterling Silver Ring ): This seductive “Peacock Eye” Ring is the embodiment of the Arts & Crafts Movement. (c. 1890-1920) The peacock eye motif was associated with the Aesthetic Movement that included the Pre-Raphaelites of the art world. You can see peacock feathers in many of their exquisite medieval style paintings. The practitioners of the Arts & Crafts Movement were revivalists of a sort, but they re-interpreted the past. They rebelled against the excesses of Victorian ornamentation. In jewelry the intrinsic values of the materials was of secondary importance to design and workmanship. Most Arts & Crafts artisans preferred silver to gold and cabochon cut gemstones to faceted ones. This dazzling blue and green “peacock eye” is hand crafted foiled glass. There is currently a growing interest in the Arts & Crafts style and principals. These “peacock eye” pieces are in high demand and difficult to find. I love their unique iridescent shine and intense colors. This is the first Sterling Silver mounted peacock eye ring I have had. (Marked “Sterling”) The oval domed “eye” is bezel set high above the mount. The top and bottom of the setting are decorated with delicate forget-me-not flowers. The triple split shank band features tiny markings almost like squares, perhaps miniature snake scales. The ring band is narrow (1/16" wide), but could be sized. This Antique Peacock Eye Ring is a ring size 6 1/4. Delicate, almost lace like in appearance, this ring is a rare treasure. A special ring for a lady looking for an authentic Arts & Crafts Period jewel.

Condition: Excellent. No chips.
Size: 1” high, 1/2” wide, 1/4” deep. The center “eye” measures 3/4” high, 3/8” wide. This is a ring size 6 1/4.
$375.00

VJ144

ARTS & CRAFTS PEACOCK EYE NECKLACE ( Arts & Crafts Jewelry Peacock Eye Necklace ): This rare peacock eye bead necklace is a treasure from a recent buying trip. It is the embodiment of the Arts & Crafts Movement. (c. 1890-1920) The practitioners of the Arts & Crafts Movement were revivalists of a sort, but they re-interpreted the past. They rebelled against the excesses of Victorian ornamentation. In jewelry the intrinsic value of the materials was of secondary importance to design and workmanship. Most Arts & Crafts artisans preferred silver to gold and cabochon cut gem stones to faceted ones. These dazzling blue and green Peacock Eye irregular shaped beads are hand crafted foiled glass. Seven shimmering beads are strung together on a bronze colored foxtail chain. There are hand-tied knots on each side of the Peacock Eye beads and the necklace closure is a spring ring clasp. The bronze colored chain is an unusual, but perfect compliment, to the blue and green eyes. There is currently a huge revival of interest in the Arts & Crafts style. These “Peacock Eye” pieces are scarce and in high demand. I love their unique iridescent shine and intense colors. Wear them with denim or silk – for work or play. Condition: Excellent. The spring ring clasp may be a replacement. Size: Total length of necklace is 31 1/2”. It is long enough to wrap twice around your neck, but the full splendor of the beads is best displayed when worn long. Each Peacock Bead is approximately 5/8”. $500.00
VJ128A.JPG (54663 bytes)

VJ128

GRAY MISTS OF SCOTLAND ( Victorian Scottish Jewelry Brooch ): Songs and stories immortalize the fierce and turbulent past that still haunts the Scottish soul. This magnificent Victorian Scottish Pennanular Brooch represents the best of the fashion for “all things Scottish”. (c. 1850-1870) Pennanular Brooches (broken ring) like this one were used to secure the clan’s Tartan plaid to the left shoulder of the Scottish Highlander. The large pin portion is used to pierce through the fabric and emerge near the bottom to hold a large portion of gathered fabric in place. The pin can swivel to a variety of positions. The English adopted them to secure the brilliant Indian shawls fashionable at the time. Inlayed with Montrose Agate (striated gray), this brooch is bezel set with 3 large faceted stones - possibly Cairngorm quartz, but they could also be citrines. The faceted stone on the top is a citrine. The rounded Sterling Silver setting has delicate chased designs on both the front and the back. The silver is unmarked, perfectly normal for the time period. Meticulously crafted, this Antique Brooch is filled with history. As wearable today as it was over a century ago. Condition: Excellent. A tiny piece of silver banding is missing at 4 o’clock. Not visible to the naked eye. Size: 3” high, 2 1/8” wide, 3/4” deep settings for bezel set faceted citrines. SOLD!
 

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