Judy Jay's

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Phone: 210-690-8454

--Last Updated: 12/28/2011 --


Victorian & Ivory Jewelry

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Layaway Available for Purchases of $200.00 or More

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Item: Description: Price:

VJ203

 SYMBOLS OF VICTORIA’S REIGN ( Victorian Jewelry Jet Necklace ):

“Black as Jet”
“Ah! Black as jet, but long ago
In dignity and lace,
The ladies wore around their necks
A flash of ebon grace.”

Here is a real beauty – a Whitby Jet Necklace, typically eye catching, beautiful and wearable. (c. 1880-90) Queen Victoria ruled over England, Ireland and Scotland and this wonderfully designed Antique Neck Collar features shamrocks, roses and a splendid thistle at the center. Hand carved faceted squares are set between the floral images. Notice the elaborately carved end pieces with stylized leaf motifs – and they are at the back! The collar has a replacement barrel clasp. This was probably not a morning necklace; because it was so fashionable, black jewelry was also worn by women who were not in mourning. The neck collar is made in curves so it will lie flat around your neck. (Made for a small or medium modern neck – not large.) This is a piece that will have collectors drooling because not many of these full necklaces survived intact. Jet is so easy to wear because of its light weight. Jet! Black, flashing and alive.


Condition: Excellent. A few tiny nibbles on the back, but none visible when wearing.
Size: 16” long, thistle at center is 2” wide 1 1/2" high. Faceted squares are 7/8” and 3/8” deep.
$500.00

VJ206

 CHRISTIAN TRILOGY ( Victorian Jewelry Faith, Hope & Charity Pin / Brooch ): I am pleased to offer this truly divine 14KT brooch of the three great virtues - faith, hope and charity. (c. 1870) These three virtues allow man to share in God’s nature. Long used by many cultures, the Victorians often referred to the trilogy of symbols as faith, hope and love. (Victorians frequently changed things.) By substituting love for charity it fits better into the great romantic age. In this pristine brooch the symbols are made of Chalcedony, a family of minerals that are milky white to bluish in color. The soft radiance and glow of this stone makes an ethereal background for the beautifully engraved 14KT accents to each symbol. The subtle shades of white, blue and hints of red add a depth and mystery that seems so appropriate for this elegant piece of history. There is an extended pin stem and C clasp closure on the back. A superb Antique Faith, Hope and Charity Brooch to treasure for a lifetime and then pass onto another generation to appreciate. LAYAWAY AVAILABLE for any purchase over $200.


Condition: Excellent. Appears to never have been worn.
Size: 1 5/8” high, 1 3/4" wide, 1/4" deep.
$800.00

VJ202

 STRIPES OF THE HIGHLAND ( Victorian Scottish Agate Jewelry Earrings ): Agate Jewelry owes its popularity to the unbridled enthusiasm for all things Scottish that swept England in the mid-1800’s. The cultural climate in Victorian England was heightened by an awakening interest in naturalism and a renewed fascination with Medieval Romanticism. Picturesque Scotland became the embodiment of those interests. Queen Victoria’s love affair with Scotland was well publicized. Following her lead, it was not long before her loyal subjects made Scotland a major tourist attraction – and the souvenirs most desired were Scottish Jewels. These Sterling Silver earrings are a rare pair of fine pierced earrings with three bands of agate, no doubt made in Edinburgh, the center of the Scottish jewelry trade. Agate is a form of quartz. The opaque jasper stripes are red and mustard, the milky white agate with green inclusions is moss agate. The bands are perfectly matched and they date to 1860-80. The edges are claw set and the silver has ornate engraving. The backs of the earrings are flat silver. I like the fact that these silver drops are larger than most of thin and tiny earrings that were abundant. Whenever I look at Scottish jewelry I hear strains of “Brigadoon” and picture Gene Kelly and Cyd Charisse dancing in the heather on the hills. How much more romantic can you get??

Condition: Excellent.
Size: From the top of the drop 2” high, 1 5/8” wide, 1/4" deep.
SOLD!

IV065

 RARE HAIR COMB OF ROMANTIC ROSES ( Victorian Jewelry Ivory Hair Comb ): Ivory enjoyed great popularity in jewelry during the latter part of the 19th Century, particularly during the 1880’s when colorless jewels became the vogue. During the reign of Victoria the “Language of Flowers” became a form of communication between friends and lovers. Exquisitely hand carved, this hair comb of roses conveys the message “Never forget that I love you.” This breathtaking curved Antique Ivory Comb is an extravaganza of four climbing roses beginning with stems and buds and culminating in four roses in full bloom. The roses are elevated above the lace-like carving between each rose stem. Think of the work that went into this museum quality comb! The Ivory patina is rich and warm with visible grain marks. There are five strong teeth that hold the comb firmly in place – you can wear it tucked in the back, high on your head or on either side of your head. The teeth are quite long so let them help you to determine where it feels most comfortable. A perfect gift for an upcoming wedding or a bride of 50 years. Anyone will look more elegant with this comb in their hair – and finish it off with a wonderful shawl. The “WOW” factor is +10. Imagine yourself wearing this captivating example of the timeless beauty and romance of roses. A rare hairloom to pass on to other generations.

Condition: Excellent. No losses.
Size: 5 1/2" high, 4” wide, teeth are 2 3/4" long.
$450.00

VJ204

 MANIA FOR ALL THINGS JAPANESE ( Victorian Jewelry Aesthetic Silver Locket ): This beautiful Sterling Silver Locket (c. 1880) contains all of the traits of the aesthetic movement. Simplicity was the keynote to all design: an economy of line, perfectly spaced composure and just one carefully observed individual characteristic of each leaf, flower and bird were all the elements needed to create the atmosphere and aesthetic beauty that so intoxicated Europe and the West. The mania for all things Japanese was on. Large silver lockets and wide bracelets were the most successful pieces to convey the most desired “look”. On the cover of this locket you can see engraved bamboo and fern-like foliage, some slightly bending to the gentle gusts of wind. To add a touch of color, an appliqué of gold wash rests on the surface of the delicate butterfly and the two birds perched on fine branches. There is a wonderful large bale to add a chain and the edges of the locket are grooved on both the front and back of the locket. The back is marked “STERLING”. To own a locket of this Japanese style will give you delight as you describe what the change of style and ornamentation meant to the history of jewelry. (Be sure to mention that the first pieces of “Japonaiserie” were made by the men who hand ornamented Samurai swords until swords were outlawed by the government.)

Condition: Excellent. The locket snaps closed very securely. The inside is empty.
Size: 2 1/4" high including bale, 1 1/2" wide, 1/4" deep.
$550.00

VJ207

 A PASSION FOR THE PAST ( Victorian Jewelry Garnet Pin / Pendant ): Garnet is the birthstone for January, but desired by all collectors of Victorian Jewelry. The stone received its name from the Latin word for pomegranate because it reminded early scientists of pomegranate seeds. The 19th Century was the peak of Bohemian Garnet Jewelry mined from the mountains of Bohemia. Placed closely together the garnets produce a brighter and deeper color than when set singularly. Glittering Garnets dance across the surface of this multi-layered Victorian Brooch. (c. 1860-80) Set with five tiers of different sizes and shapes of garnets, this wonderful brooch also acts as a pendant. There is a hinged triangular shaped bale with an O-ring in it so that the pendant will lie correctly when you hang it from a chain. I like it worn this way because it produces a marquise shape. As a brooch it is more of an oval. More interesting in its design than many garnet pieces, it seems fresher and more fascinating to the modern eye. The gems are all closed back and, as is characteristic for this type of jewelry, have been set in gilt gold over silver – referred to as “garnet gold”. On the back the elongated pin stem has been shortened and a safety clasp added. During the Victorian era Western cultures believed that garnets would enrich the blood and provide the wearer with a long and healthy life. To me the rich deep wine red color of garnets suggests a passion for the past. Bring the past into your present. If you have been wanting an Antique Garnet Pin or Pendant for yourself or need a loving gift – now it the time to purchase this distinctive multi-functional Glittering Garnet treasure.

Condition: Excellent. No missing stones. The chain is not included.
Size: As a pendant – 2” high, 1 1/2" wide, 1/2” deep.
$475.00

IV064

 IVORY PORTRAIT CAMEO ( Edwardian Jewelry Ivory Cameo Necklace & Pendant ): When I am shopping for Cameos I always watch for unusual pieces to add to my offerings. I have never seen an Antique Ivory Cameo Necklace quite like this piece. (c. 1900-20 Edwardian-Art Nouveau) The large oval pendant appears to be a portrait Cameo – hand carved to depict a historical figure. Such pieces featured representations of individuals such as Shakespeare, Mary – Queen of Scots, and included Romantic poets and novelists. The dress and hair style of the lady carved here is possibly Georgian. Certainly it has not been Victorianized. The edge of the pendant has a carved beaded surround with the bale also carved from Ivory. The bale has a center line carved into it. The necklace is made of carved oblong and round ivory beads with a tubular twist fastener. The ivory has a lovely patina and the grain is clearly seen. This may be a one-of-a-kind cameo necklace. Ivory has become much coveted by collectors and prices are climbing rapidly. This portrait Cameo with its own very special look can be worn with denim or lace – proclaim your own sense of style!


Condition: Excellent.
Size: Large. Pendant 2 1/4" high (3” with bale), 1 3/4" wide, 1/4" deep.
Necklace is approximately 30” long.
SOLD!

VJ205

GOLDEN SHAMROCK ( Victorian Jewelry Watch Pin Holder Brooch ): Small, but mighty useful, this late Victorian (c. 1890) Shamrock Pin is actually a way to get more use out of your lockets and pendants. In Victorian times these little pins were collected and used to hang watches from. (The watches were made with their clock faces upside down so that they could be easily seen.) They work very nicely to extend the size of a pendant or locket and you can pin things on a jacket where before you could only wear it around your neck. This gold filled, ornate Antique Shamrock Watch Pin is accented by 3 tiny pearls and an amethyst stone in the center. It’s all original with a C clasp on the back as well as a good sized hook. It is photographed with a locket which is not included. You can always wear it alone or collect several and make a unique cluster of pins! A choice way to collect antique jewelry at a small price. PLEASE NOTE: I am starting a new policy. My "Specials" will be for U.S.A. collectors only unless purchased along with another piece by an International collector.

Condition: Excellent. Locket is not included.
Size: 1 1/8” high, 1” wide, 1/8” deep.
$15.00

VJ196

CUT STEEL SWALLOW GLITTERS WITH LIGHT ( Georgian Jewelry Cut Steel Bird Brooch / Pin ): This large glittering Georgian Cut Steel Swallow in flight will make your heart beat faster. (c. 1820) Cut Steel has a long history of its very own admirers – revered in the 17th Century and again in the Victorian period. Used as an alternative for the look of early cut diamonds, cut steel jewelry is a highly refined process. Each small cut steel bead or stud is hand cut, faceted, polished and painstakingly riveted into a metal (typically brass) back piece. Take a look at all of the rivet marks on the back of this swallow and think of the work involved! The Georgian and Victorian eras were deeply committed to the “cult of nature”. Birds and butterflies took center stage as popular motifs in jewelry. Birds in flight symbolized the winged soul as it begins its eternal journey. This wonderfully dramatic Swallow Brooch glimmers and sparkles, creating a 3-dimensional effect with its wings applied in two layers. The lower wing has been added on so that it is fully extended in front of the bird’s body. The back retains its original C clasp and pin stem. English or French in origin, resist the temptation to shade your eyes as the light dances from one facet to the other. (Our photos cannot nearly capture the glittering effect.) In the last decade Antique Cut Steel Jewelry has gained increasing popularity and the demand for these pieces is high. This large bird is the biggest piece I have ever offered. Picture this sparkling creation perched on your shoulder, lapel or even in your hair – if you dare!

Condition: Excellent. Very small amount of expected patina. No rust, no beads missing.
Size: 1 1/4" high, 2 1/2" long, 1/2” deep. (Large)
$600.00

VJ198

QUITE A CATCH ( Victorian Jewelry Raj Tiger Claw Brooch / Pin ): An elaborate souvenir of the Raj era in India, this Antique Four Tiger Claw Brooch is quite a grand reminder of the age when British “Great White Hunters” roamed India in search of trophies of their hunting prowess. (c. 1870-1900) Mounted in 9KT gold, the largest Tiger Claw has three smaller, free swinging claws suspended from it. All four claws have scalloped golden jackets that end in golden orbed tips. The original C clasp closure remains, the end of the large claw’s jacket is stamped “9CT” and these were probable set in England, possibly from more than one hunt. I have never seen this claw brooch design before – it appears sleek and modern. Quite a catch – in more ways than one! A reminder of the British quest for the exotic. An extremely handsome piece, literally dripping with style, to add to your Victorian Jewelry collection. (It is a perfect match with VJ199 – the “Dainty Raj Mementos” Earrings.)

Condition: Excellent.
Size: Top claw is 1 3/8” wide, 2” long with dangles, 1/4" deep at top. (Medium)
$500.00

VJ199

DAINTY RAJ MEMENTOS ( Victorian Jewelry Raj Cat Claw Earrings ): The period of England's rule in India, from 1858 until 1947, has become known as the British Raj. All manner of jewelry was produced in India and marketed to the British. Exotic and intriguing, this pair of Victorian Cat Claw Earrings is inset into 9KT gold. (c. 1870-90) The top of each claw is encased in a scalloped jacket that covers the inside curve of the claw and each tip with an orb of gold. Sometime in their history they have been made into pierced ear posts with rectangular stud ear backs. Collectors have made these Antique Indian mounted claws all the rage in Fashion again. High end costume jewelry designers, like Kenneth Jay Lane, have recreated the look of these delicate earrings for today’s market. Authentic Claw Earrings are much rarer than the claw pins and these dainty mementos are made as mirror images for you to enjoy. Exotic and intriguing, cat claw jewelry lets the imagination wander into the mysterious land of India. (These earrings are a perfect match for VJ198 – “Quite a Catch” Tiger Claw Brooch.)

Condition: Excellent.
Size: 1” high, 1 1/2" wide, 1/4" deep. (Small)
$300.00

VJ197

 RULER OF THE SKIES ( Victorian Jewelry Eagle Brooch / Watch Pin / Pendant ): Perceived as the ruler of the skies, the eagle rises above the earth and soars to the heavens. Superbly crafted in 18KT yellow gold, this ethereal eagle brooch shows the symbolic bird with wings spread in flight, feathers carefully detailed, each one overlapping the other. (c. 1880 - 1900) His face, beak and eyes are masterfully rendered in three dimensions, his mighty talons seem ready to catch any unsuspecting prey. His powerful beak firmly grasps a prong set diamond that is free swinging. Perhaps the bright and shiny diamond is the prey his keen eye caught sight of as he surveyed his domain. The strength and majesty of the independent eagle are reasons why it was chosen as the symbol of the birth of our new nation – the United States of America! (Benjamin Franklin wanted the turkey – thank goodness he was overruled.) You can wear this elegant eagle as a brooch, a watch pin or even as a pendant. On the back there is a nice C clasp closure with a point guard for tip of pin, a hook to suspend a companion piece and the wing tips have tiny rings where a chain could be attached. Birds were an image that nature minded Victorians coveted. This magical creature is timeless as he defines the past, present and the future.

Condition: Excellent.
Size: Wing tip to wing tip 2 1/2", 1” high, 1/2" deep. The diamond has not been removed for carat size. (Medium)
$550.00

VJ148

VOTES FOR WOMAN – SUFFRAGETTE COLORS ( Edwardian Jewelry Suffragette Earrings ): As the 19th Century began, women in England and the United States were battling it out on the political front for women’s suffrage. The Suffragettes had a color code which they translated into jewelry: green, white & violet supposedly stood for “Give Women the Vote”. A more complex and accurate explanation for the colors comes from Mrs. Pethick-Lawrence, treasurer and co-author of the newspaper “Votes for Women”. She introduced the colors at a mass rally in Hyde Park in June, 1908. She explained: “Purple stands for the royal blood that flows in the veins of every suffragette, the instinct of freedom and dignity…white stands for purity in private and public life… green is the color of hope and the emblem of spring.” The correct phrase is: “Votes for Women”. These rare suffragette earrings are a lasting reminder of that important milestone that led to women gaining the right to vote. (In the U.S. women won this right in 1920.) Most of these jewelry pieces were small, symbols worn to let other women know that the wearer was sympathetic to the cause. The earrings are marked “9CT” for 9KT Gold and each contains tiny Pearls, faceted Amethysts and a green faceted Peridot. (c. 1910, English) The earrings currently have screw back findings, but could be changed to pierced earrings by a good jeweler. Suffragette earrings are extremely rare and seldom seen for sale because they are treasured by collectors who will not let them go. Delicate in appearance, these petite pieces are also indicative of the Edwardian taste in jewelry. Delightful to the eye and steeped in history, Suffragette jewelry pieces are scarce and highly desirable.

Condition: Excellent. Pearls appear to be all original.
Size: Earrings 1 1/8” long, 1/4" wide. (Small)
$650.00

VJ186

STOLEN TREASURE ( Arts & Crafts Jewelry Peacock Eye Brooch / Pin ): I was very excited when I found this dazzling example of the Arts & Crafts Movement on my last buying trip. Powerful and mysterious, this large mythical clawed bird foot is gripping a huge Peacock Eye stone. It appears to be reaching down from the sky to clutch its brilliantly hued treasure – a stolen treasure gone forever. This brooch displays the vibrancy of nature in fine and precise craftsmanship. The practitioners of the Arts & Crafts Movement (c. 1890-1920) were revivalists of the past. (You can see the Medieval and Gothic influence in the choice of a claw.) They rebelled against the excesses of Victorian ornamentation. In jewelry the intrinsic value of the materials was of secondary importance to design and workmanship. Most Arts & Crafts artisans preferred silver to gold and cabochon cut gem stones to faceted ones. The leg of the powerful bird is realistically rendered in brass with a brownish patina – every scale and claw as if made by nature. (c. 1900-1910) At the top of the foot is an encircling cluster of leaves – giving the impression of the leg reaching right through them to steal the colorful treasure. Peacock Eye stones were hand crafted, glass over foil and a favorite of Arts & Craft designers. The back of the brooch has a replacement pin stem and safety catch closure. This timeless beauty embodies all of the hallmarks of the Arts & Crafts movement in one breathtaking brooch. It’s a killer combination!

Condition: Excellent. Replacement pin stem and safety clasp.
Size: 3” long, 1 3/8” high, 1/2" deep. Peacock Eye Stone is 1” long, 5/8” high, 3/8” deep.
$485.00

VJ191

THE WONDER OF UNGER ( Art Nouveau Jewelry Sterling Silver Unger Brothers Brooch / Pin ): Unger Bros. was one of the most creative and premier manufacturers of Art Nouveau Sterling Silver items in the United States. This firm reached its creative zenith from 1895 to 1907. The company’s most popular items were decorated with fantastic Nouveau designs incorporating flowers, heads of women, ocean waves and seashells. This splendid large brooch is of a fashionable lady wearing a plumed hat, her face entirely covered with a veil with a large elaborate bow tied under her chin. (c. 1900-10) Her eyes are demurely downcast, her nose a perfect line and her lips are slightly parted. This elegant lady brooch has all the “bells and whistles”. The design is done in die-stamp high relief work for which the Unger Bros. were known. The sculptural quality of the high relief work creates a distinctive three-dimensional sense – adding to the fantasy-like atmosphere of the design. The reverse has been backed with a flat sheet of Sterling to give more substance. There is a replacement C clasp closure on the back and the distinctive hallmark with the interlaced “U” and “B” surrounded by the words and numbers “STERLING 925 FINE”. Many of these large brooches are in museums or private collections. Lovely to look at, thrilling to hold, a real show stopper! Picture yourself with this worn on black velvet. You’ll be the envy of every lady who sees you and this could become your personal signature piece.

Condition: Excellent. Wonderful patina. The two tiny pin holes on the reverse are part of the casting process.
Size: Large – 2 1/2" high, 2 1/2" wide, 1/2" deep.
$800.00

VJ190

THE POWER OF THE HIGHLANDS ( Victorian Jewelry Scottish Agate Brooch / Pin ): When Queen Victoria and Albert purchased Balmoral Castle in 1848 the heart of English society was immediately captivated with the subtle colors of moss and heather, the mysteries of high gray castle walls and the strict heraldry which still ruled the Scottish clans. This extraordinary antique Victorian brooch mimics the penannular (broken ring) brooches that were used to secure the clan’s tartan plaid to the left shoulder of the Scottish Highlander. (c. 1850-70) Inlayed with 5 pieces of agate and 2 slices of bloodstone, this ancient stone is actually a dark green chalcedony with flecks of red – hence the name bloodstone. Many ancient magical powers are credited to it, including the power to stop bleeding and preserve health. The Sterling Silver portions are elaborately engraved, the long pin running through the center makes a handsome accent. The three large bezel set faceted stones are citrines. This is not a hollow ware piece - it is solid Sterling. The back retains its original C clasp closure, elongated pin stem and a tiny ring for a safety chain. A perfect jacket or shawl brooch that a collector will love. The market for prime Scottish jewelry is rising rapidly and pieces as large and powerful as this brooch are disappearing fast. Songs and stories immortalize the fierce and turbulent past that still haunts the Scottish soul. Regal, elegant and a touch barbaric – this unforgettable brooch is as wearable today as it was 150 years ago.

Condition: Excellent. I believe the dark agate stone just above the citrine in the pin head to be a replacement. No scratches on citrines.
Size: Large – 2 3/8” in diameter, front pin stem 2 3/4" long, 3/8” deep.
$950.00
 

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