| Item: |
Description: |
Price: |

VJ194 |
SPARKLING PYRAMID OF GARNETS ( Victorian Jewelry Bohemian Garnet Brooch
/ Pendant):
Garnet is the birth stone for January, but desired by all collectors of
Victorian Jewelry. The stone received its name from the Latin word for
pomegranate because it reminded early scientists of pomegranate seeds.
The 19th Century was the peak of Bohemian Garnet Jewelry – mined from
the mountains of Bohemia (present-day western Czech Republic). Placed
closely together, the garnets produced a brighter and a deeper color
than when set singularly. So it is with this fiery Victorian Antique
Brooch, set with a marvelous raised cluster of garnets upon garnets. (c.
1870) Oval in form, the deep wine garnet stones are placed in a tier six
layers deep, producing a highly domed effect of brilliantly flashing
garnets. All of the stones are faceted and appear in four different
sizes. The pendant/brooch still retains its original circular drop. The
circular, free swinging drop is a beautiful accent to this large piece.
The gems are all closed back and, as is characteristic for this type of
jewelry, have all been set into rose gold gilt over silver (commonly
referred to as “garnet gold”). The reverse of this brooch/pendant must
have an interesting history. At some time the elongated pin stem has
been shortened and the original C clasp has a “capped” housing for the
tip of the pin so that it will not catch or pull on fabric if worn as a
pendant. There is also a hinged pendant loop added at the top – so many
ladies now prefer pendants. You would need to add a ring or bale to make
this piece hang properly from a chain. During the Victorian era, Western
cultures believed that garnets would enrich the blood and provide the
wearer with a long & healthy life. Highly coveted by collectors, this is
a dazzling, sparkling example of antique garnet jewelry at its best.
Condition: Excellent. There are no missing garnets. One or two of the
small ones may be replacements.
Size: 2 1/4" long, including drop, 1 1/2" wide, 1/2" deep. |
$650.00 |

IV056 |
THE POWER OF HONOR AND VICTORY ( Victorian Jewelry Ivory Cross Pendant
):
This deeply hand carved Antique Ivory Cross Pendant combines two of the
most potent symbols of Victorian culture – the cross of Christian Faith
and oak leaves with acorns symbolizing longevity, honor and victory. (c.
1860-80) This powerful cross has rounded, veined oak leaves carved with
fully rounded acorns, textured caps and pointed tips. At the center of
the arms of the cross is a carved heart symbolizing the love of God and
the center of the soul. The high quality of the carving indicates that
it was probably done in the city of Dieppe, France – the center of ivory
carvers. The cross is in flawless condition with the mellow warm patina
of age and visible graining, shown on our close-up photo of the heart, a
leaf and an acorn. I like the fact that this is a wearable work of a
master carver’s art. The bale is carved from the same piece of Ivory as
the pendant – just add a fine chain. Ivory has become scarce and highly
collectible. Crosses are currently high fashion accessories, but this
one will never go out of style and can be passed on to future
generations. Quality is always the best buy!
Condition: Excellent.
Size: Including bale 3 3/4" high, 2” wide and 5/8” deep. |
$475.00 |

VJ175 |
ANOTHER ANGEL GETS HER WINGS ( Victorian Jewelry Ivory Portrait
Miniature / Pendant ):
Originally purchased in London, this is one of the most haunting and
poignant portrait miniatures I have come upon. She is simply an angel.
(c. 1900) Hand painted on Ivory, her face is magnificent. Her blue eyes
seem to gaze in the distance and her lips are sweetly closed. Fine
blonde curls cascade down to her slight shoulders, giving the effect of
being surrounded by light. Dainty hands are posed holding white robes
draped around her and upon her beautifully painted hands she wears a
tiny gold ring on her right middle finger. The symbols of the blue sky
background, the wearing of the robes which flow about her like billowing
clouds and the arrangement of her hands suggest that she is deceased.
Gone but Not Forgotten. An irresistible image that will touch your
heart. The portrait is set in an 18KT rose gold frame held with four
pins and the back is covered in green velvet. There is a lovely wide
bale for a chain. I can not find a signature, but this is clearly the
work of a skilled artist. Amazingly, the original antique traveling case
with a beige velvet bed and beige silk interior lining survives. The
case is made of wood covered by dark brown leather. The leather on the
front is cracked and the silk frayed – as shown in the photos. I can
only imagine the grieving mother or father who constantly kept this
reminder at hand, even when traveling. Not lost but gone before-she is
simply an angel.
Condition: Portrait and setting are excellent. The case shows the wear
of time.
Size: Portrait is 2 5/8” high, 2” wide, 1/4” deep. |
$1500.00 |

VJ178 |
ARTS & CRAFTS POOL of LIGHT ( Art Nouveau/Arts & Crafts Jewelry Silver
“Pool of Light” Necklace ):
“Pools of Light” or “Gypsy beads”, as they are sometimes called, are
clear quartz crystal orbs. A real treasure, this necklace from the Arts
& Crafts period (c. 1920-30) holds a large silver caged sphere suspended
from a long hand crafted silver chain. The practitioners of the Arts &
Crafts Movement re-interpreted the past. In jewelry the intrinsic value
of the materials was of secondary importance to design and workmanship.
These “pools of light” are believed to be a product of Mount Fujiyama in
Japan. When the mount erupted in springtime these crystal balls found
their way into stream beds where over the years they were polished as
they journeyed over pebbles into the foothill river beds. Finally they
were polished to perfection in the lapidary shops of Kofu. Traditionally
they have been treasured – especially by the Chinese who believe that
luck resides in the inner recesses of these orbs. “Pools” were never
drilled because it was believed that drilling allowed the good luck to
pour out of the crystal. The supply of these wonderful crystals seemed
to exhaust itself in the 1930’s. This silver link, ball and wirework
designed chain slips over your head and has a spring ring that attaches
to the pool of light. A wonderfully versatile necklace, you can take off
the orb and use the chain it to wear another pendant or wear the crystal
orb alone. It is difficult to photograph these pools – they appear
grayish in photos. Against the skin, or other hues, they take on a
rainbow of guises. Alive with vibrancy of another era, I can picture
Isadora Duncan wearing this necklace as she danced in the moonlight. A
special treasure for a special lady. You will love it!
Condition: Excellent.
Size: Orb is 1” in diameter, chain is 31” long. |
$650.00 |

VJ189 |
THE SHIMMER & SPARKLE OF GARNETS ( Victorian Jewelry Garnet Brooch /
Pin ):
The history and mystery of garnets is part of their charm. This stone
received its name from the Latin word for pomegranate because it
reminded early gemologists of pomegranate seeds. During the Victorian
era Western cultures believed that garnets would enrich the blood and
provide the wearer with a long and healthy life. Glittering garnets
dance across the surface of this multi-layered early Victorian Brooch.
(c. 1830-60) The deep wine red garnets are faceted to refract sheer
brilliance and their radiance and glow is simply luscious. Unlike many
flat garnet designs, this antique brooch is composed of multi-leveled
tiers of sparkling and varied sized garnets. The entire top portion of
the brooch is domed with a sparkling drop suspended at the bottom. The
central bezel set cabochon oval garnet is surrounded by a starburst of
tiny white pearls, each set in its individual tiny “petal”. The floral
shaped drop also has a tiny pearl at its center. A very unusual design
that adds elegance and refinement to the brooch. The gems are all closed
back and, as is characteristic for this type of jewelry, have all been
set into rose gold gilt over silver – commonly called “garnet gold”.
There is an early replacement C clasp closure and a pin stem
replacement. If you have been wanting a special piece of garnet jewelry,
you cannot do better than this – the essence of Victorian style.
Condition: Excellent. All stones and pearls are original.
Size: With dangle 2" high, 2”wide, 3/8" deep. Dangle is 5/8” long, 3/8”
wide. Center cabochon is 5/8” wide, 3/8” high. |
$425.00 |
VJ131
|
SHIMMERING BLUE BELLE ÉPOQUE ( Edwardian Jewelry
Guilloché Locket ): This superb Edwardian shimmering blue guilloché
locket is simply the largest and most stunning piece of its kind that I
have seen. (c. 1890-1920) Only a confident lady of the Belle Époque era
would have worn this large Sterling Silver Stunner. The technique of
guilloché enamel features an engraved decoration of geometric design
achieved by engine turning. When used as a base for translucent enamel
it creates a shimmering effect. The intense deep blue of this locket
provides an opulent background for the “garland style” – hand painted
pink and pale yellow roses that circle the border of this oval antique
locket. Swags of leaves have been painted above the central bouquet of
mixed roses. There are tiny gold dot accents on the locket front. The
back of the locket is also deep blue enamel over a wave pattern
emanating from the center. The good sized pendant ring is marked “935 M”
and the pendant itself is jeweler tested as Sterling. The locket
interior contains its original inserts and celluloid covers, which have
yellowed with time. The hinged closure is firm and tight. These
guilloché lockets have become a favorite with collectors. The more
complex the design and the more colors used, the more highly the piece
is valued. This rich and sumptuous locket will linger in your mind. It
is an unforgettable example of Belle Époque extravagance.
Condition: Excellent. A few surface scratches visible only under
magnification.
Size: 2 1/4” high, 1 3/4” wide. |
$675.00
|

IV055 |
REGAL AFRICAN QUEEN ( Vintage Bone Black African Jewelry Pin / Brooch):
I am pleased to offer this dramatic hand carved bone brooch of a
handsome African Woman. (c. 1920) It has been in my personal collection
of ethnic jewelry for years. The lavish and intricate carving make this
bone brooch almost as valuable one carved from ivory. Notice the fine
work on her hair style and the magnificent jewelry she wears, including
her grand earrings. This brooch was sold to me as a French piece but it
could well be African due to the amount of detail in costume and hair
style. You can clearly see the distinctive bone markings on the back of
this portrait of a Black Woman. There is a riveted C clasp closure
original to the piece. Outstanding in its entirety, this timeless beauty
is extravagant in its size and workmanship. A “killer” brooch – wearing
it will make you feel like a Queen!
Condition: Excellent. No chips.
Size: 2 ¾” high, 1 ¾” wide ¼” deep. |
$275.00 |

VJ159 |
DELICATE PEACOCK EYE RING ( Arts & Crafts Jewelry Peacock Eye
Sterling Silver Ring ): This seductive “Peacock Eye” Ring is the
embodiment of the Arts & Crafts Movement. (c. 1890-1920) The peacock eye
motif was associated with the Aesthetic Movement that included the
Pre-Raphaelites of the art world. You can see peacock feathers in many
of their exquisite medieval style paintings. The practitioners of the
Arts & Crafts Movement were revivalists of a sort, but they
re-interpreted the past. They rebelled against the excesses of Victorian
ornamentation. In jewelry the intrinsic values of the materials was of
secondary importance to design and workmanship. Most Arts & Crafts
artisans preferred silver to gold and cabochon cut gemstones to faceted
ones. This dazzling blue and green “peacock eye” is hand crafted foiled
glass. There is currently a growing interest in the Arts & Crafts style
and principals. These “peacock eye” pieces are in high demand and
difficult to find. I love their unique iridescent shine and intense
colors. This is the first Sterling Silver mounted peacock eye ring I
have had. (Marked “Sterling”) The oval domed “eye” is bezel set high
above the mount. The top and bottom of the setting are decorated with
delicate forget-me-not flowers. The triple split shank band features
tiny markings almost like squares, perhaps miniature snake scales. The
ring band is narrow (1/16" wide), but could be sized. This Antique
Peacock Eye Ring is a ring size 6 1/4. Delicate, almost lace like in
appearance, this ring is a rare treasure. A special ring for a lady
looking for an authentic Arts & Crafts Period jewel.
Condition: Excellent. No chips.
Size: 1” high, 1/2” wide, 1/4” deep. The center “eye” measures 3/4”
high, 3/8” wide. This is a ring size 6 1/4. |
$375.00 |

VJ155 |
LUSTROUS TORTOISESHELL CRESCENT ( Victorian Jewelry Tortoiseshell
Brooch / Pin ):
This dazzling designed Victorian brooch is made of polished
Tortoiseshell. (c. 1870) The Victorians were very fond of Tortoise and
used it for hair ornaments, combs, brushes, fans and small boxes – as
well as jewelry. Tortoiseshell is molded using heat and then polished.
It was considered appropriate for mourning after Prince Albert’s death.
Most common in jewelry were lustrous-feeling chains, lockets, earrings
and brooch sets. This large inverted crescent has graduated beading
along the top curve. There is a long drop that dangles from the inside
of a beaded edge horseshoe shape. The drop at the bottom has been hand
carved. The pin back has a C clasp closure. Nature’s palette is combined
with a classical design to produce this captivating Antique Victorian
Brooch. Condition: Excellent. Size: Entire brooch hangs 3 ½” long, 2 ¼”
wide. Dangle drop chain is 2” long. Crescent is ¼” deep. |
$400.00 |

VJ145 |
SWIRLS OF AGATE IN LACE ( Victorian Jewelry Agate Earrings ):
Light and delicate, these stunning Victorian Banded Agate Earrings
speak of romance and refinement. (c. 1880-1900) Torpedo shaped drops are
dramatized by the use of agate with intricate patterns of swirls and
striking natural layered banding in subtle shades of chocolate, taupe
and white. Please note that the agate was cut to form a match between
the two earrings. At the rounded ends of the drops you can actually see
the natural crystallization within the stone. The agate rounds at the
top both display vertical stripes. Delicate lacelike 14KT frames with
engraved scrolls and curls form the perfect setting for these seductive
and alluring earrings. The agate drops are free swinging within their
frames. The pierced ear backs with safety clasps go into your ear from
the front and they snap closed. Unabashedly feminine, both the luscious
color pattern and shape of these earrings harmonize to form a perfect
balance of beauty in concert. Condition: Excellent. All original. Size:
2 ¼” long, ¾” at widest point. |
$900.00 |

VJ153 |
THE ART OF PIQUÉ ( Victorian Jewelry Piqué Tortoiseshell Earrings ):
Piqué is by definition gold and/or silver inlaid into another material,
such as Ivory or Tortoiseshell. By the mid-19th Century, this beautiful
art found renewed popularity as a decoration for jewelry. The piqué
jewelry fashion seemed to follow the popularity of Tortoiseshell. The
lightness of the material lent itself well to earrings. These late
Victorian Earrings are a sleek and chic example of the popular torpedo
shaped drops with 4 flat tapering triangle sides. (Most likely English -
c. 1870) The deep natural tone of the chocolate shell is the perfect
counterpoint for the inset precious metals, as the light is reflected
from every angle. Charming gold floral motifs grace the round
tortoiseshell beads atop these articulated earrings, accented by the
original gold earwires. The painstaking and laborious process of piqué,
while delighting its admirers, faded from sight due to its time demands
upon the creators. Its association with half-mourning as decreed by
Queen Victoria ended with her death. Fashionable ladies rejected all
dark colors in favor of silver and light or colorless stones which
emerged as the Edwardian styles took the stage. These dainty and
feminine earrings capture the essence of the 19th Century– never to be
repeated again. Condition: Very good. A few tiny dots of silver piqué
absent. Not visible to the naked eye. Size: Total length 2”, drop is 1
½” long, ¼” wide at top. |
$675.00 |

VJ139 |
CLASSICAL REVIVAL AMPHORA URNS ( Victorian Jewelry
Tortoiseshell Earrings ): I recently acquired these aristocratic and
superbly crafted Victorian Tortoiseshell Earrings. (c. 1860-70) The
Romantic Period ended abruptly with the death of Prince Albert in 1861
and the beginning of the Civil War in the U.S.A. – causes for deep
mourning on both sides of the Atlantic. By the 1860’s, Revivalism was in
full swing. Women were wearing Etruscan-style amulets and other
“classical” ornaments. The “Grand Period” of Victorian style had begun.
Tortoiseshell emerged as a popular jewelry material. It as also
considered suitable for half-mourning. These truly elegant Antique
Tortoiseshell Earrings in the shape of amphorae urns are suspended from
round bead surmounts and have shepherd’s hook earwires. The popular
amphora shape is derived from an ancient Greco-Roman handled urn with a
tapered base. These are “book piece” earrings shown on Page 54 of
“Warman’s Jewelry – 3rd eddition”. Animal rights were not a big issue in
Victorian times. They thought the supply of nature’s bounty was endless,
but they were wrong. Highly desired by collectors, these earrings are a
reminder of the simple and classical beauty produced by Victorian
artisans. The very essence of 19th Century, you will treasure these
earrings for another lifetime. Condition: Excellent and Rare. Size: 2
3/4” long, 5/8” wide. Bead and amphora are fully rounded. |
ON HOLD! |
VJ113 |
MYSTERIOUS MOONSTONES ( Edwardian Jewelry Moonstone Bracelet ):
Seventeen round cabochons of moonstones sit side-by-side in Sterling
Silver mounts in this cool and mysterious bracelet. (c. 1920) The
moonstone is a variety of feldspar which is very light and delicate in
appearance. It is nearly colorless, but with a milky depth that often
takes on bluish, gray and white tones. The vogue for colorless gems came
into fashion in the 1880’s and is one of the distinctive materials of
the Edwardian (Belle Époque)
period. Frequently set in silver, it echoed the Arts & Crafts
movement with its use of cabochon cut stones, rather than faceted
colored gemstones. The graduated moonstones in this elegant bracelet are
referred to as “Cat’s Eye” moonstones. When examined closely, each
one has a vertical white line (seen well in photos). Each stone is set
into a Sterling Silver coronet claw mount – so light and airy. The
clasp is a V-spring and box clasp. Press down on the V-spring and pull
out of the box clasp to open. A heavenly form to grace your wrist. The
subtle interplay of light in the moonstones is both alluring and
haunting. Condition: Excellent. No flea bites. Size: 7 5/8” long when
clasped. Center stone is 3/8” in diameter. Setting 3/8” deep.
|
SOLD! |
VJ117
|
RIBBONS OF WHITE ENAMEL OVER GARNETS ( Victorian
Jewelry Garnet Earrings ): These feminine and appealing garnet
earrings convey the essence of the Mid-Victorian Grand Period. (c. 1870)
Complex in design, rich in color, these tear drop shaped earrings are
18KT gold with white enamel accents. The gold drop base is hollow – you
can see the 2 tiny holes on the back – which makes them very light
weight. A delicate studded rope border frames the bezel set cabochon
garnet. A beautiful and unusual oval cut red-purple rhodolite garnet
forms the centerpiece of each earring. The raised ribbon-like motifs
above the garnet feature finely executed white enamel accented with gold
stripes. The 14KT gold shepherd’s hook ear wires have been added over
the years. In the Language of Gemstones, garnets have always represented
fidelity and virtue. Garnets are the birth stone of ladies born in
January, but remain highly popular every month of the year. Condition:
Excellent. Size: 1 5/8” long, 5/8” wide, 1/4” deep. |
$500.00
|
VJ093 |
CARNELIAN PROMISE OF HOPE ( Victorian Jewelry Scottish Brooch/Pendant
): To the Victorians, the Anchor was a symbol of Hope, an emotion
that provided a refuge from the travails of living in a time when death
was always near. Faith (Cross), Hope (Anchor) and Charity (Heart) was an
extremely popular Victorian motif found in all types of jewelry. This
large Antique Carnelian and Sterling Silver Anchor Brooch (c. 1860) is
an outstanding example of the Scottish style that Queen Victoria loved
so well. The carved carnelian part of the cross is beautifully striated
when held up to the light. The silver portions of the brooch are
delicately engraved and a twisted silver rope coils itself around the
anchor. The original pin stem has been replaced with a shorter version
and with the addition of the ring at the top, this anchor brooch becomes
a lovely pendant. The C clasp closure is original. Such a bold statement
look will always be a fashion favorite. Condition: Excellent. Size: 3
1/4” long, 1 5/8” wide.
|
$250.00
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