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--Last Updated: 07/21/2008 --


Victorian & Ivory Jewelry

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Item: Description: Price:

VJ137

TASTE FOR THE FAR EAST ( Victorian Jewelry Coral Earrings ): The “Grand Period” of Victorian jewelry (c. 1861-80) found Revivalism in full swing. International exhibitions whetted appetites for jewelry from exotic places. You could see mogul jewelry from India, gold mounted tiger claws, Egyptian scarabs, carved nuts from Australia, Etruscan style ornaments and influences from the orient – Japan & China. With hairstyles changed to once again reveal the ear, earrings returned, growing in size and popularity. Of Chinese origin, these bright and colorful coral bead earrings will light up your face. Many tiny, hand cut and polished coral beads have been strung with coral colored thread over a lightweight round core, until they resemble tiny pomegranates. The setting is gilt gold retaining all of its shine and richness of color. Shepherd’s hook ear wires are used to make these exotic “ear bobs” dance in your ears. A fascinating and beautifully crafted pair of earrings to delight a new century. Condition: Excellent. Size: 2” long from top of hook, coral encrusted ball is 3/4” in diameter. $275.00

VJ153

THE ART OF PIQUÉ ( Victorian Jewelry Piqué Tortoiseshell Earrings ): Piqué is by definition gold and/or silver inlaid into another material, such as Ivory or Tortoiseshell. By the mid-19th Century, this beautiful art found renewed popularity as a decoration for jewelry. The piqué jewelry fashion seemed to follow the popularity of Tortoiseshell. The lightness of the material lent itself well to earrings. These late Victorian Earrings are a sleek and chic example of the popular torpedo shaped drops with 4 flat tapering triangle sides. (Most likely English - c. 1870) The deep natural tone of the chocolate shell is the perfect counterpoint for the inset precious metals, as the light is reflected from every angle. Charming gold floral motifs grace the round tortoiseshell beads atop these articulated earrings, accented by the original gold earwires. The painstaking and laborious process of piqué, while delighting its admirers, faded from sight due to its time demands upon the creators. Its association with half-mourning as decreed by Queen Victoria ended with her death. Fashionable ladies rejected all dark colors in favor of silver and light or colorless stones which emerged as the Edwardian styles took the stage. These dainty and feminine earrings capture the essence of the 19th Century– never to be repeated again. Condition: Very good. A few tiny dots of silver piqué absent. Not visible to the naked eye. Size: Total length 2”, drop is 1 ½” long, ¼” wide at top. $800.00
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IV040

ROMANTIC ROSES ( Victorian Jewelry Ivory Earrings ): Roses never lose their romantic feminine appeal. I was fortunate to find these long, finely hand Ivory carved rose earrings on a recent buying trip. Victorian Romanticism found its perfect expression in carved floral motifs. The “Language of Flowers” captured the fashionable Victorian’s imagination and an abundance of blossoms and foliage provided ample proof of their interest in the elaborate symbolism of nature. A single rose carries the sentiment – I love you. Flattering to all skin tones, these long carved pierced earrings are just lovely and a fine example of the carver’s art. (c.1860-80) When you move your head these Ivory blossoms “dance” in your ears. The Sterling Silver (tested) pierced ear wires may not be original. “Flowers have their language. Theirs is an oratory that speaks in perfumed silence.” These earrings are a true Victorian treasure no collector or flower lover should be without. Condition: Excellent. No chips or damage. Size: Roses hang 2 5/8” including ear wire, 3/4” wide, 3/8” deep. $450.00

VJ151

AIMING FOR YOUR HEART ( Victorian Jewelry Sterling Silver Arrow Brooch / Pin ): Arrows were a popular motif among the sentimental Victorians. They denoted mortality or “wounded by love”. (How Victorian is that!) This beautifully crafted large Sterling Silver Victorian brooch (dated “1848”) will capture your heart. Wonderful engraving runs the length of the arrow shaft and beveled arrow head. The feathered portion of the brooch appears to be decorated in two different stamped patterns. The real fun begins with the silver looped chain that ends with a suspended fully rounded dangling drop. The pin closure is really fascinating. To open the pin you pull the arrow point forward, thus releasing the pin stem. After you have the stem in place on your garment, you push the pin stem into the little slot that looks like a V closure and then push the arrow head point firmly back into place. It works something like a trombone clasp. This captivating Antique Brooch has registry marks reading “30MARCH, 1848”. (Think of it – over 150 years old!) It also is stamped with the maker’s mark “H&T”, the Hillard & Thompson Co., Birmingham, England. A thoughtful gift for a loved one. It looks wonderful on jackets, sweaters or even shawls. Elegant, refined and a lot of history all in one sleek silver brooch. Bound to win you compliments at work or out on the town in the evening. Condition: Excellent. A few light scratches – they are antique, too. Size: 4 ½” long, 1 ¼” wide, drop hangs 1 ¼” below the arrow tip. $225.00

VJ139

CLASSICAL REVIVAL AMPHORA URNS ( Victorian Jewelry Tortoiseshell Earrings ): I recently acquired these aristocratic and superbly crafted Victorian Tortoiseshell Earrings. (c. 1860-70) The Romantic Period ended abruptly with the death of Prince Albert in 1861 and the beginning of the Civil War in the U.S.A. – causes for deep mourning on both sides of the Atlantic. By the 1860’s, Revivalism was in full swing. Women were wearing Etruscan-style amulets and other “classical” ornaments. The “Grand Period” of Victorian style had begun. Tortoiseshell emerged as a popular jewelry material. It as also considered suitable for half-mourning. These truly elegant Antique Tortoiseshell Earrings in the shape of amphorae urns are suspended from round bead surmounts and have shepherd’s hook earwires. The popular amphora shape is derived from an ancient Greco-Roman handled urn with a tapered base. These are “book piece” earrings shown on Page 54 of “Warman’s Jewelry – 3rd eddition”. Animal rights were not a big issue in Victorian times. They thought the supply of nature’s bounty was endless, but they were wrong. Highly desired by collectors, these earrings are a reminder of the simple and classical beauty produced by Victorian artisans. The very essence of 19th Century, you will treasure these earrings for another lifetime. Condition: Excellent and Rare. Size: 2 3/4” long, 5/8” wide. Bead and amphora are fully rounded. $750.00

IV042

THE ROSE SCENT OF ROMANCE ( Victorian Jewelry Ivory Brooch ): Roses never lose their romantic and feminine appeal. This exquisite hand carved Victorian Ivory Brooch of cabbage roses and forget-me-nots conveys the floral message “Never forget that I love you”. (French, c. 1860-80) During the reign of Queen Victoria the “Language of Flowers” became a form of communication between friends and lovers. Romanticism found a perfect expression in carved Ivory bouquets and sprays of blossoms. This breath taking extravagant spray of cabbage roses and forget-me-nots is a superb example of the master carver’s art - you can almost smell the scent of roses. A miracle of survival, there are no flaws or chips in this delicate antique brooch. The Ivory patina is rich and warm and you can see the grain marks on the back. There is replacement safety clasp pin back. Imagine yourself wearing this captivating example of the timeless beauty and the romance of roses. Condition: Excellent. Size: 2 1/2” wide, 1 1/2” high. You can wear it horizontally or vertically. $425.00

VJ134

THE CROSS OF ST. ANDREW ( Victorian Jewelry Scottish Brooch ): Regal and rich in color, this magnificent Antique Scottish Brooch features the cross of St. Andrew. (c. 1845-1870) All Scots were entitled to wear this cross, but when it was surmounted by a crown, a royal crest was indicated and the Queen’s permission was needed to wear it. This bloodstone cross is encircled by a Sterling Silver crown that curves around the cross and is actually a separate piece mounted in place. The crown is ornamented with three elevated bezel set citrines. The large oval background consists of jasper, Montrose gray agate and in the four corners are warm brown raised triangular cut agate stones. All of these colored agates were mined in different parts of Scotland. Fine engraving decorates all of the Sterling Silver design work. The back is hallmarked with a diamond shaped mark divided into sections for particular details, such as date, category and pattern number. There is a sturdy C clasp closure and the tiny ring at the top once held a safely chain. This brooch embodies England’s passion for “all things Scottish”. A wonderful Scottish brooch full of the character and mystery of the highlands. Condition: Excellent. Stones always have natural irregularities. No chips. The far left citrine on the crown moves slightly, but is solidly in place. Size: 2” high, 2 1/2” wide, 1/2” deep. SOLD!
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VJ128

GRAY MISTS OF SCOTLAND ( Victorian Scottish Jewelry Brooch ): Songs and stories immortalize the fierce and turbulent past that still haunts the Scottish soul. This magnificent Victorian Scottish Pennanular Brooch represents the best of the fashion for “all things Scottish”. (c. 1850-1870) Pennanular Brooches (broken ring) like this one were used to secure the clan’s Tartan plaid to the left shoulder of the Scottish Highlander. The large pin portion is used to pierce through the fabric and emerge near the bottom to hold a large portion of gathered fabric in place. The pin can swivel to a variety of positions. The English adopted them to secure the brilliant Indian shawls fashionable at the time. Inlayed with Montrose Agate (striated gray), this brooch is bezel set with 3 large faceted stones - possibly Cairngorm quartz, but they could also be citrines. The faceted stone on the top is a citrine. The rounded Sterling Silver setting has delicate chased designs on both the front and the back. The silver is unmarked, perfectly normal for the time period. Meticulously crafted, this Antique Brooch is filled with history. As wearable today as it was over a century ago. Condition: Excellent. A tiny piece of silver banding is missing at 4 o’clock. Not visible to the naked eye. Size: 3” high, 2 1/8” wide, 3/4” deep settings for bezel set faceted citrines. $700.00
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VJ113

MYSTERIOUS MOONSTONES ( Edwardian Jewelry Moonstone Bracelet ): Seventeen round cabochons of moonstones sit side-by-side in Sterling Silver mounts in this cool and mysterious bracelet. (c. 1920) The moonstone is a variety of feldspar which is very light and delicate in appearance. It is nearly colorless, but with a milky depth that often takes on bluish, gray and white tones. The vogue for colorless gems came into fashion in the 1880’s and is one of the distinctive materials of the Edwardian (Belle Époque) period. Frequently set in silver, it echoed the Arts & Crafts movement with its use of cabochon cut stones, rather than faceted colored gemstones. The graduated moonstones in this elegant bracelet are referred to as “Cat’s Eye” moonstones. When examined closely, each one has a vertical white line (seen well in photos). Each stone is set into a Sterling Silver coronet claw mount – so light and airy. The clasp is a V-spring and box clasp. Press down on the V-spring and pull out of the box clasp to open. A heavenly form to grace your wrist. The subtle interplay of light in the moonstones is both alluring and haunting. Condition: Excellent. No flea bites. Size: 7 5/8” long when clasped. Center stone is 3/8” in diameter. Setting 3/8” deep. $700.00
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VJ119

PEACOCK EYES & STERLING SHELLS ( Arts and Crafts Jewelry Peacock Eye Earrings ): This pair of sleek and seductive “Peacock Eye” earrings is the embodiment of the Arts & Crafts Movement. (c. 1890-1920) The peacock eye motif was associated with the Aesthetic Movement that included the Pre-Raphaelites of the art world. You can see peacock feathers in many of their exquisite medieval style paintings. The practitioners of the Arts & Crafts Movement were revivalists of a sort, but they re-interpreted the past. They rebelled against the excesses of Victorian ornamentation. In jewelry the intrinsic values of the materials was of secondary importance to design and workmanship. Most Arts & Crafts artisans preferred silver to gold and cabochon cut gemstones to faceted ones. These dazzling blue and green “peacock eyes” are hand crafted foiled glass. A graceful Sterling Silver shell shape forms the top of the each earring with a double-sided bezel set peacock eye at its center and a tiny silver ball drop. The entire earring swings freely from its original long silver shepherd’s hook ear wires. These earrings are marked “Sterling” on the back. There is currently a growing interest in the Arts & Crafts style. These “peacock eye” pieces are scarce and in high demand. I love their unique iridescent shine and intense colors. Wear them with denim or silk - for work or play. Condition: Excellent. Size: Total length from top of ear wire 2”, shell is 3/4” wide. SOLD!
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VJ117

RIBBONS OF WHITE ENAMEL OVER GARNETS ( Victorian Jewelry Garnet Earrings ): These feminine and appealing garnet earrings convey the essence of the Mid-Victorian Grand Period. (c. 1870) Complex in design, rich in color, these tear drop shaped earrings are 18KT gold with white enamel accents. The gold drop base is hollow – you can see the 2 tiny holes on the back – which makes them very light weight. A delicate studded rope border frames the bezel set cabochon garnet. A beautiful and unusual oval cut red-purple rhodolite garnet forms the centerpiece of each earring. The raised ribbon-like motifs above the garnet feature finely executed white enamel accented with gold stripes. The 14KT gold shepherd’s hook ear wires have been added over the years. In the Language of Gemstones, garnets have always represented fidelity and virtue. Garnets are the birth stone of ladies born in January, but remain highly popular every month of the year. Condition: Excellent. Size: 1 5/8” long, 5/8” wide, 1/4” deep. $650.00
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VJ110

FABULOUS VICTORIAN SWIVEL FOB ( Victorian Jewelry Watch Fob Necklace ): Here is a regal and elegant combination of Victorian splendor. (c. 1860-80) This Antique Pendant is a large and ornate Victorian watch fob. It has an abundance of heavy gold filled relief work comprised of leaf and floral motifs. A sumptuous and thick setting, this fob is also a swivel setting. Intense hues of black, brown and white banded agate with a beveled edge are on the front side and it swivels to a dark green agate. The necklace is made of 12mm banded agate beads which have been re-strung and knotted on silk. The agate color range swirls from gray to brown. The lighter beads accent the rich deep colors in the fob. Now this necklace will remain strong and sturdy. There is a twist barrel clasp. As wearable today as it was over a hundred years ago. Condition: Excellent. No cracks. Gold work is so amazing. Size: Necklace length is 18”. Fob is 2” long, 1 1/2” wide, 1/2” deep. $550.00
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VJ093

CARNELIAN PROMISE OF HOPE ( Victorian Jewelry Scottish Brooch/Pendant ): To the Victorians, the Anchor was a symbol of Hope, an emotion that provided a refuge from the travails of living in a time when death was always near. Faith (Cross), Hope (Anchor) and Charity (Heart) was an extremely popular Victorian motif found in all types of jewelry. This large Antique Carnelian and Sterling Silver Anchor Brooch (c. 1860) is an outstanding example of the Scottish style that Queen Victoria loved so well. The carved carnelian part of the cross is beautifully striated when held up to the light. The silver portions of the brooch are delicately engraved and a twisted silver rope coils itself around the anchor. The original pin stem has been replaced with a shorter version and with the addition of the ring at the top, this anchor brooch becomes a lovely pendant. The C clasp closure is original. Such a bold statement look will always be a fashion favorite. Condition: Excellent. Size: 3 1/4” long, 1 5/8” wide. $300.00

VJ149

I GIVE YOU MY HEART ( Victorian Jewelry Sterling Snake Brooch / Pin ): This is simply one of the best Victorian snake brooches that I have ever seen. Large and finely detailed, this serpent carries a cobalt blue enamel heart in his mouth. (c. 1860-80) A powerful symbol of love, the snake was celebrated by Victorians who followed the example set by Queen Victoria. Her passionate husband, Prince Albert, gave her many pieces of jewelry featuring the snake motif – including her engagement ring. This captivating Antique Sterling Silver Snake twists and turns in undulating loops. Every scale is deeply engraved. His beautifully formed head has bezel set garnet eyes. Unlike many of these talismans of love, this brooch still retains its original blue enamel heart, set with a tiny half pearl. In profile you can see that the snake has an open mouth. The back has a replacement C clasp closure. (There are scratch marks on the back from previous owners testing the silver.) I have not polished it since I’ve had it because I love the rich look of the scales. Grand in size, this snake brooch is a seductive and alluring work of the jeweler’s art. The essence of the 19th Century is yours to touch, hold and treasure for another lifetime. Condition: Excellent. There is a tiny pinhole at the top of the silver on the back of the heart. It does not show when wearing the brooch. Size: 3” wide, loops are 1 1/4” high & 3/8” deep. Heart is 1/2” high & wide, 1/4” deep. SOLD!

IV048

THE QUEEN’S FLOWER ( Victorian Jewelry Ivory / Bone Hand Brooch / Pin ): I’ve seen many of these Victorian “Hand” Brooches, but never one of this striking beauty. (c. 1840-60) The workmanship on this piece is exquisite! The entire brooch is hand carved from bone and has a soft silky ivory colored patina. A delicate hand clasps a nosegay of forget-me-nots and a single edelweiss blossom. I have never seen an edelweiss blossom used this way before. Surely this Antique Hand Brooch was carved in Germany. Edelweiss is a rare European mountain flower. The name comes from the German “Edel” meaning “Noble” and “Weiss” meaning “White”. White is a symbol of purity and this star-like flower is known as “The Queen’s Flower”. The slender fingers are carved in delicate detail and the lace cuff is extremely dimensional with carved ruffles and eyelet-like piercings. The back retains its original C clasp closure. A perfect gift of love or friendship. Best of all a timeless gift of history to give to yourself. Condition: Very good. Loss of tiny tip of one leaf near cuff. Possible chip to little finger. These signs of age are not noticeable in actual size. I mention them for total accuracy. Size: 2” long, 1” high, 1/4“ deep. ON LAYAWAY!
 

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