Time Dances By - Victorian & Ivory Jewelry

Item:	Description:	Price:
VJ194	SPARKLING PYRAMID OF GARNETS ( Victorian Jewelry Bohemian Garnet Brooch / Pendant): Garnet is the birth stone for January, but desired by all collectors of Victorian Jewelry. The stone received its name from the Latin word for pomegranate because it reminded early scientists of pomegranate seeds. The 19th Century was the peak of Bohemian Garnet Jewelry – mined from the mountains of Bohemia (present-day western Czech Republic). Placed closely together, the garnets produced a brighter and a deeper color than when set singularly. So it is with this fiery Victorian Antique Brooch, set with a marvelous raised cluster of garnets upon garnets. (c. 1870) Oval in form, the deep wine garnet stones are placed in a tier six layers deep, producing a highly domed effect of brilliantly flashing garnets. All of the stones are faceted and appear in four different sizes. The pendant/brooch still retains its original circular drop. The circular, free swinging drop is a beautiful accent to this large piece. The gems are all closed back and, as is characteristic for this type of jewelry, have all been set into rose gold gilt over silver (commonly referred to as “garnet gold”). The reverse of this brooch/pendant must have an interesting history. At some time the elongated pin stem has been shortened and the original C clasp has a “capped” housing for the tip of the pin so that it will not catch or pull on fabric if worn as a pendant. There is also a hinged pendant loop added at the top – so many ladies now prefer pendants. You would need to add a ring or bale to make this piece hang properly from a chain. During the Victorian era, Western cultures believed that garnets would enrich the blood and provide the wearer with a long & healthy life. Highly coveted by collectors, this is a dazzling, sparkling example of antique garnet jewelry at its best. Condition: Excellent. There are no missing garnets. One or two of the small ones may be replacements. Size: 2 1/4" long, including drop, 1 1/2" wide, 1/2" deep.	$650.00
IV056	THE POWER OF HONOR AND VICTORY ( Victorian Jewelry Ivory Cross Pendant ): This deeply hand carved Antique Ivory Cross Pendant combines two of the most potent symbols of Victorian culture – the cross of Christian Faith and oak leaves with acorns symbolizing longevity, honor and victory. (c. 1860-80) This powerful cross has rounded, veined oak leaves carved with fully rounded acorns, textured caps and pointed tips. At the center of the arms of the cross is a carved heart symbolizing the love of God and the center of the soul. The high quality of the carving indicates that it was probably done in the city of Dieppe, France – the center of ivory carvers. The cross is in flawless condition with the mellow warm patina of age and visible graining, shown on our close-up photo of the heart, a leaf and an acorn. I like the fact that this is a wearable work of a master carver’s art. The bale is carved from the same piece of Ivory as the pendant – just add a fine chain. Ivory has become scarce and highly collectible. Crosses are currently high fashion accessories, but this one will never go out of style and can be passed on to future generations. Quality is always the best buy! Condition: Excellent. Size: Including bale 3 3/4" high, 2” wide and 5/8” deep.	$475.00
VJ175	ANOTHER ANGEL GETS HER WINGS ( Victorian Jewelry Ivory Portrait Miniature / Pendant ): Originally purchased in London, this is one of the most haunting and poignant portrait miniatures I have come upon. She is simply an angel. (c. 1900) Hand painted on Ivory, her face is magnificent. Her blue eyes seem to gaze in the distance and her lips are sweetly closed. Fine blonde curls cascade down to her slight shoulders, giving the effect of being surrounded by light. Dainty hands are posed holding white robes draped around her and upon her beautifully painted hands she wears a tiny gold ring on her right middle finger. The symbols of the blue sky background, the wearing of the robes which flow about her like billowing clouds and the arrangement of her hands suggest that she is deceased. Gone but Not Forgotten. An irresistible image that will touch your heart. The portrait is set in an 18KT rose gold frame held with four pins and the back is covered in green velvet. There is a lovely wide bale for a chain. I can not find a signature, but this is clearly the work of a skilled artist. Amazingly, the original antique traveling case with a beige velvet bed and beige silk interior lining survives. The case is made of wood covered by dark brown leather. The leather on the front is cracked and the silk frayed – as shown in the photos. I can only imagine the grieving mother or father who constantly kept this reminder at hand, even when traveling. Not lost but gone before-she is simply an angel. Condition: Portrait and setting are excellent. The case shows the wear of time. Size: Portrait is 2 5/8” high, 2” wide, 1/4” deep.	$1500.00
VJ178	ARTS & CRAFTS POOL of LIGHT ( Art Nouveau/Arts & Crafts Jewelry Silver “Pool of Light” Necklace ): “Pools of Light” or “Gypsy beads”, as they are sometimes called, are clear quartz crystal orbs. A real treasure, this necklace from the Arts & Crafts period (c. 1920-30) holds a large silver caged sphere suspended from a long hand crafted silver chain. The practitioners of the Arts & Crafts Movement re-interpreted the past. In jewelry the intrinsic value of the materials was of secondary importance to design and workmanship. These “pools of light” are believed to be a product of Mount Fujiyama in Japan. When the mount erupted in springtime these crystal balls found their way into stream beds where over the years they were polished as they journeyed over pebbles into the foothill river beds. Finally they were polished to perfection in the lapidary shops of Kofu. Traditionally they have been treasured – especially by the Chinese who believe that luck resides in the inner recesses of these orbs. “Pools” were never drilled because it was believed that drilling allowed the good luck to pour out of the crystal. The supply of these wonderful crystals seemed to exhaust itself in the 1930’s. This silver link, ball and wirework designed chain slips over your head and has a spring ring that attaches to the pool of light. A wonderfully versatile necklace, you can take off the orb and use the chain it to wear another pendant or wear the crystal orb alone. It is difficult to photograph these pools – they appear grayish in photos. Against the skin, or other hues, they take on a rainbow of guises. Alive with vibrancy of another era, I can picture Isadora Duncan wearing this necklace as she danced in the moonlight. A special treasure for a special lady. You will love it! Condition: Excellent. Size: Orb is 1” in diameter, chain is 31” long.	$650.00
VJ189	THE SHIMMER & SPARKLE OF GARNETS ( Victorian Jewelry Garnet Brooch / Pin ): The history and mystery of garnets is part of their charm. This stone received its name from the Latin word for pomegranate because it reminded early gemologists of pomegranate seeds. During the Victorian era Western cultures believed that garnets would enrich the blood and provide the wearer with a long and healthy life. Glittering garnets dance across the surface of this multi-layered early Victorian Brooch. (c. 1830-60) The deep wine red garnets are faceted to refract sheer brilliance and their radiance and glow is simply luscious. Unlike many flat garnet designs, this antique brooch is composed of multi-leveled tiers of sparkling and varied sized garnets. The entire top portion of the brooch is domed with a sparkling drop suspended at the bottom. The central bezel set cabochon oval garnet is surrounded by a starburst of tiny white pearls, each set in its individual tiny “petal”. The floral shaped drop also has a tiny pearl at its center. A very unusual design that adds elegance and refinement to the brooch. The gems are all closed back and, as is characteristic for this type of jewelry, have all been set into rose gold gilt over silver – commonly called “garnet gold”. There is an early replacement C clasp closure and a pin stem replacement. If you have been wanting a special piece of garnet jewelry, you cannot do better than this – the essence of Victorian style. Condition: Excellent. All stones and pearls are original. Size: With dangle 2" high, 2”wide, 3/8" deep. Dangle is 5/8” long, 3/8” wide. Center cabochon is 5/8” wide, 3/8” high.	$425.00
VJ131	SHIMMERING BLUE BELLE ÉPOQUE ( Edwardian Jewelry Guilloché Locket ): This superb Edwardian shimmering blue guilloché locket is simply the largest and most stunning piece of its kind that I have seen. (c. 1890-1920) Only a confident lady of the Belle Époque era would have worn this large Sterling Silver Stunner. The technique of guilloché enamel features an engraved decoration of geometric design achieved by engine turning. When used as a base for translucent enamel it creates a shimmering effect. The intense deep blue of this locket provides an opulent background for the “garland style” – hand painted pink and pale yellow roses that circle the border of this oval antique locket. Swags of leaves have been painted above the central bouquet of mixed roses. There are tiny gold dot accents on the locket front. The back of the locket is also deep blue enamel over a wave pattern emanating from the center. The good sized pendant ring is marked “935 M” and the pendant itself is jeweler tested as Sterling. The locket interior contains its original inserts and celluloid covers, which have yellowed with time. The hinged closure is firm and tight. These guilloché lockets have become a favorite with collectors. The more complex the design and the more colors used, the more highly the piece is valued. This rich and sumptuous locket will linger in your mind. It is an unforgettable example of Belle Époque extravagance. Condition: Excellent. A few surface scratches visible only under magnification. Size: 2 1/4” high, 1 3/4” wide.	$675.00
IV055	REGAL AFRICAN QUEEN ( Vintage Bone Black African Jewelry Pin / Brooch): I am pleased to offer this dramatic hand carved bone brooch of a handsome African Woman. (c. 1920) It has been in my personal collection of ethnic jewelry for years. The lavish and intricate carving make this bone brooch almost as valuable one carved from ivory. Notice the fine work on her hair style and the magnificent jewelry she wears, including her grand earrings. This brooch was sold to me as a French piece but it could well be African due to the amount of detail in costume and hair style. You can clearly see the distinctive bone markings on the back of this portrait of a Black Woman. There is a riveted C clasp closure original to the piece. Outstanding in its entirety, this timeless beauty is extravagant in its size and workmanship. A “killer” brooch – wearing it will make you feel like a Queen! Condition: Excellent. No chips. Size: 2 ¾” high, 1 ¾” wide ¼” deep.	$275.00
VJ159	DELICATE PEACOCK EYE RING ( Arts & Crafts Jewelry Peacock Eye Sterling Silver Ring ): This seductive “Peacock Eye” Ring is the embodiment of the Arts & Crafts Movement. (c. 1890-1920) The peacock eye motif was associated with the Aesthetic Movement that included the Pre-Raphaelites of the art world. You can see peacock feathers in many of their exquisite medieval style paintings. The practitioners of the Arts & Crafts Movement were revivalists of a sort, but they re-interpreted the past. They rebelled against the excesses of Victorian ornamentation. In jewelry the intrinsic values of the materials was of secondary importance to design and workmanship. Most Arts & Crafts artisans preferred silver to gold and cabochon cut gemstones to faceted ones. This dazzling blue and green “peacock eye” is hand crafted foiled glass. There is currently a growing interest in the Arts & Crafts style and principals. These “peacock eye” pieces are in high demand and difficult to find. I love their unique iridescent shine and intense colors. This is the first Sterling Silver mounted peacock eye ring I have had. (Marked “Sterling”) The oval domed “eye” is bezel set high above the mount. The top and bottom of the setting are decorated with delicate forget-me-not flowers. The triple split shank band features tiny markings almost like squares, perhaps miniature snake scales. The ring band is narrow (1/16" wide), but could be sized. This Antique Peacock Eye Ring is a ring size 6 1/4. Delicate, almost lace like in appearance, this ring is a rare treasure. A special ring for a lady looking for an authentic Arts & Crafts Period jewel. Condition: Excellent. No chips. Size: 1” high, 1/2” wide, 1/4” deep. The center “eye” measures 3/4” high, 3/8” wide. This is a ring size 6 1/4.	$375.00
VJ155	LUSTROUS TORTOISESHELL CRESCENT ( Victorian Jewelry Tortoiseshell Brooch / Pin ): This dazzling designed Victorian brooch is made of polished Tortoiseshell. (c. 1870) The Victorians were very fond of Tortoise and used it for hair ornaments, combs, brushes, fans and small boxes – as well as jewelry. Tortoiseshell is molded using heat and then polished. It was considered appropriate for mourning after Prince Albert’s death. Most common in jewelry were lustrous-feeling chains, lockets, earrings and brooch sets. This large inverted crescent has graduated beading along the top curve. There is a long drop that dangles from the inside of a beaded edge horseshoe shape. The drop at the bottom has been hand carved. The pin back has a C clasp closure. Nature’s palette is combined with a classical design to produce this captivating Antique Victorian Brooch. Condition: Excellent. Size: Entire brooch hangs 3 ½” long, 2 ¼” wide. Dangle drop chain is 2” long. Crescent is ¼” deep.	$400.00
VJ145	SWIRLS OF AGATE IN LACE ( Victorian Jewelry Agate Earrings ): Light and delicate, these stunning Victorian Banded Agate Earrings speak of romance and refinement. (c. 1880-1900) Torpedo shaped drops are dramatized by the use of agate with intricate patterns of swirls and striking natural layered banding in subtle shades of chocolate, taupe and white. Please note that the agate was cut to form a match between the two earrings. At the rounded ends of the drops you can actually see the natural crystallization within the stone. The agate rounds at the top both display vertical stripes. Delicate lacelike 14KT frames with engraved scrolls and curls form the perfect setting for these seductive and alluring earrings. The agate drops are free swinging within their frames. The pierced ear backs with safety clasps go into your ear from the front and they snap closed. Unabashedly feminine, both the luscious color pattern and shape of these earrings harmonize to form a perfect balance of beauty in concert. Condition: Excellent. All original. Size: 2 ¼” long, ¾” at widest point.	$900.00
VJ153	THE ART OF PIQUÉ ( Victorian Jewelry Piqué Tortoiseshell Earrings ): Piqué is by definition gold and/or silver inlaid into another material, such as Ivory or Tortoiseshell. By the mid-19th Century, this beautiful art found renewed popularity as a decoration for jewelry. The piqué jewelry fashion seemed to follow the popularity of Tortoiseshell. The lightness of the material lent itself well to earrings. These late Victorian Earrings are a sleek and chic example of the popular torpedo shaped drops with 4 flat tapering triangle sides. (Most likely English - c. 1870) The deep natural tone of the chocolate shell is the perfect counterpoint for the inset precious metals, as the light is reflected from every angle. Charming gold floral motifs grace the round tortoiseshell beads atop these articulated earrings, accented by the original gold earwires. The painstaking and laborious process of piqué, while delighting its admirers, faded from sight due to its time demands upon the creators. Its association with half-mourning as decreed by Queen Victoria ended with her death. Fashionable ladies rejected all dark colors in favor of silver and light or colorless stones which emerged as the Edwardian styles took the stage. These dainty and feminine earrings capture the essence of the 19th Century– never to be repeated again. Condition: Very good. A few tiny dots of silver piqué absent. Not visible to the naked eye. Size: Total length 2”, drop is 1 ½” long, ¼” wide at top.	$675.00
VJ139	CLASSICAL REVIVAL AMPHORA URNS ( Victorian Jewelry Tortoiseshell Earrings ): I recently acquired these aristocratic and superbly crafted Victorian Tortoiseshell Earrings. (c. 1860-70) The Romantic Period ended abruptly with the death of Prince Albert in 1861 and the beginning of the Civil War in the U.S.A. – causes for deep mourning on both sides of the Atlantic. By the 1860’s, Revivalism was in full swing. Women were wearing Etruscan-style amulets and other “classical” ornaments. The “Grand Period” of Victorian style had begun. Tortoiseshell emerged as a popular jewelry material. It as also considered suitable for half-mourning. These truly elegant Antique Tortoiseshell Earrings in the shape of amphorae urns are suspended from round bead surmounts and have shepherd’s hook earwires. The popular amphora shape is derived from an ancient Greco-Roman handled urn with a tapered base. These are “book piece” earrings shown on Page 54 of “Warman’s Jewelry – 3rd eddition”. Animal rights were not a big issue in Victorian times. They thought the supply of nature’s bounty was endless, but they were wrong. Highly desired by collectors, these earrings are a reminder of the simple and classical beauty produced by Victorian artisans. The very essence of 19th Century, you will treasure these earrings for another lifetime. Condition: Excellent and Rare. Size: 2 3/4” long, 5/8” wide. Bead and amphora are fully rounded.	ON HOLD!
VJ113	MYSTERIOUS MOONSTONES ( Edwardian Jewelry Moonstone Bracelet ): Seventeen round cabochons of moonstones sit side-by-side in Sterling Silver mounts in this cool and mysterious bracelet. (c. 1920) The moonstone is a variety of feldspar which is very light and delicate in appearance. It is nearly colorless, but with a milky depth that often takes on bluish, gray and white tones. The vogue for colorless gems came into fashion in the 1880’s and is one of the distinctive materials of the Edwardian (Belle Époque) period. Frequently set in silver, it echoed the Arts & Crafts movement with its use of cabochon cut stones, rather than faceted colored gemstones. The graduated moonstones in this elegant bracelet are referred to as “Cat’s Eye” moonstones. When examined closely, each one has a vertical white line (seen well in photos). Each stone is set into a Sterling Silver coronet claw mount – so light and airy. The clasp is a V-spring and box clasp. Press down on the V-spring and pull out of the box clasp to open. A heavenly form to grace your wrist. The subtle interplay of light in the moonstones is both alluring and haunting. Condition: Excellent. No flea bites. Size: 7 5/8” long when clasped. Center stone is 3/8” in diameter. Setting 3/8” deep.	SOLD!
VJ117	RIBBONS OF WHITE ENAMEL OVER GARNETS ( Victorian Jewelry Garnet Earrings ): These feminine and appealing garnet earrings convey the essence of the Mid-Victorian Grand Period. (c. 1870) Complex in design, rich in color, these tear drop shaped earrings are 18KT gold with white enamel accents. The gold drop base is hollow – you can see the 2 tiny holes on the back – which makes them very light weight. A delicate studded rope border frames the bezel set cabochon garnet. A beautiful and unusual oval cut red-purple rhodolite garnet forms the centerpiece of each earring. The raised ribbon-like motifs above the garnet feature finely executed white enamel accented with gold stripes. The 14KT gold shepherd’s hook ear wires have been added over the years. In the Language of Gemstones, garnets have always represented fidelity and virtue. Garnets are the birth stone of ladies born in January, but remain highly popular every month of the year. Condition: Excellent. Size: 1 5/8” long, 5/8” wide, 1/4” deep.	$500.00
VJ093	CARNELIAN PROMISE OF HOPE ( Victorian Jewelry Scottish Brooch/Pendant ): To the Victorians, the Anchor was a symbol of Hope, an emotion that provided a refuge from the travails of living in a time when death was always near. Faith (Cross), Hope (Anchor) and Charity (Heart) was an extremely popular Victorian motif found in all types of jewelry. This large Antique Carnelian and Sterling Silver Anchor Brooch (c. 1860) is an outstanding example of the Scottish style that Queen Victoria loved so well. The carved carnelian part of the cross is beautifully striated when held up to the light. The silver portions of the brooch are delicately engraved and a twisted silver rope coils itself around the anchor. The original pin stem has been replaced with a shorter version and with the addition of the ring at the top, this anchor brooch becomes a lovely pendant. The C clasp closure is original. Such a bold statement look will always be a fashion favorite. Condition: Excellent. Size: 3 1/4” long, 1 5/8” wide.	$250.00
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