Judy Jay's

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--Last Updated: 07/21/2008 --


Victorian & Ivory Jewelry

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Item: Description: Price:
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VJ118

CLASSIC BANDED BEAUTY ( Victorian Jewelry Banded Agate Cross Pendant ): One of my favorite Victorian stones is banded agate, a variety of quartz. It can be clear or variegated, with the colors arranged in layered stripes such as banded agate – usually black, brown and white. This beautiful English high quality Antique Cross Pendant is set with six fabulous matching banded ovals. The left half of each is opaque brown and the right half a semi-translucent light caramel color, best seen on the side views. (c. 1860-80) The setting is silver plated. The stark simplicity of banded agate has made it a timeless example of understated elegance. Perfect with a suit or sweater for today’s woman of style. Condition: Excellent. Some wear to silver plated back. Size: 3” long, 2” wide, 1/4” deep. SOLD!
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VJ108

ORNATE COFFEE & MILK AGATE ( Victorian Jewelry Banded Agate Brooch ): Victorian banded agate was usually set in very simple, almost stark, mountings. That may have occurred because of their association with Mourning Jewelry. Obviously, this antique brooch was not intended for that purpose. Ornate scroll and leaf open work of gilded metal provide the setting for the oblong cabochon of agate. (c. 1880) The stone has bands of coffee brown, tan and milky white. A surprising and elegant combination of agate and setting. Both the C clasp and the hinge are careful replacements done long ago. Condition: Excellent. Very light wear to the metal surface. Size: 2 1/4” wide, 2” high. Central agate 1” wide, 5/8” high. $135.00
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VJ106

ANTIQUE TRIBAL SILVER AND CARNELIAN SEAL PENDANT: A heavy silver and carnelian Antique Tribal Seal. (c. 1880-1910) The silver work is a heavy combination of stamp work and engraving. The large circular top is solid metal, not hollow work. The large block of Carnelian is a rich rust brown color. It is believed that Carnelian encourages brotherhood among all. It protects against envy, fear and rage - and helps banish sorrow. It can assist in drama and theatre and promotes creativity and individuality. This antique seal is probably a Turkoman piece. Turkomans are the majority population of current Turkmenistan (Central Asia) and are widely recognized for their decorative ornaments. This seal has a black cord threaded through it for wear as a pendant. The original owner would have worn it close to him since it was used to sign and seal personal letters and agreements. Condition: Excellent. There is a natural fissure in the carnelian that appears to be original to the piece. It is polished smooth to the feel and was there when I bought it. Size: 3 1/2” long; the silver ball is 1 1/4” wide and 1” deep; the square base is 3/4” wide & deep. The cord is 42” long. It can be tied and cut at any length you choose. $150.00
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VJ107

A PROMISE OF HOPE ( Victorian Jewelry Jet Brooch ): Anchors were popular as a mourning motif, sometimes representing a loved one lost at sea or referring to the three symbols of Christianity: Faith, Hope & Love, with the anchor representative of Hope. In this gleaming large scale carved Victorian Whitby Jet Brooch the anchor becomes an unforgettable example of Victorian Jewelry at its best. (c. 1850-1860) The shiny jet is jointed to form this design. The stem of the anchor fits into the top and bottom pieces. The silver “rope” appears to be a late addition or replacement. The original C clasp and extended pin stem are still in place. This Antique Brooch is as wearable today as it was over a century and a half ago. Jet is always elegant and sophisticated – fit for a Queen! Condition: Excellent. Some old adhesive at the joints on the back. Size: 3 5/8” high, 2 1/4” wide, 1/4” deep. $300.00
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VJ084

ROSY-FINGERED DAWN (Victorian / Edwardian Jewelry Locket & Watch Pin ): I purchased a collection of these Art Nouveau (1890-1910) gold-filled lockets because I love the themes they display and their condition is so remarkable. Lockets were a fashion “craze” that has continued to delight ladies to this day. I believe that this locket set with paste brilliants is a late Victorian piece (c. 1890), since this particular subject reached its zenith at that time. Based on a bas-relief by the Danish sculptor, Bertel Thorwaldsen (sculpted in 1815), the winged goddess of Dawn, Aurora (Eos), ushers in the day. Homer described her as “rosy-fingered”, scattering roses on the earth as she welcomes the dawn of another day. She is accompanied by the Genius of Light - a cherubic figure also known as “Daystar Lucifer” - who bears a torch to light the day. A complex subject beautifully rendered. The locket opens from the top and retains the photo rim, but the celluloid photo cover is gone. The gold-filled, ornate, scrolled watch pin is a perfect match in color and style. It closes with a C clasp and early side safety guard. Condition: Excellent. The paste stones are still pristine and the locket fastens securely. I have included the original jump ring if you wish to wear it on a chain. Sold only as a set.  Size: Locket 1 1/4” diameter, with pin 2” long. $400.00
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VJ102

ENDLESS LOVER’S KNOT ( Victorian Jewelry Archeological Revival Brooch ): Victorians were fascinated with ancient history and for them history meant revivals. Archeological discoverers and published accounts of ancient historical events prompted revivals in jewelry styles from ancient cultures. This Gilt Gold Antique Brooch combines the “endless lover’s knot” design with the Italian archeological style, featuring applied wire filigree work and beaded edging. (c. 1870-80) The swirls of the knot are set with blue glass stones. I love the rich matte gold color combined with the elegantly turquoise blue shaded stones. The pin back has a C clasp closure. Opulent in size and decoration, but not in price, this Victorian brooch looks superb on. You will find that it can be worn with casual clothing or on a special velvet jacket. Condition: Excellent. No wear on the gilt. Size: 2” wide, 1 5/8” high 5/8” deep. SOLD!
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VJ049

QUEEN VICTORIA’S PASSION ( Victorian Jewelry Antique Scottish Agate Brooch ): This large magnificent Victorian Silver Scottish Agate Brooch represents the best of the fashion "for all things Scottish". Queen Victoria’s pride in her Stuart ancestry and the popularity of Sir Walter Scott’s romantic novels made Scottish Jewelry a fashionable accessory (1840 - 1870). This thick complex brooch is the Order of the Garter Strap and Buckle, the chivalric order headed by Queen Victoria. She wore this order on her arm. Elaborately engraved, this brooch is set with red jasper, gray agate, carnelian and bloodstone. This ancient stone is actually a dark green chalcedony with flecks of red, hence the name, bloodstone. Many magical ancient powers were ascribed to it, including the power to stop bleeding and preserve health. When the Queen purchased Balmoral Castle in 1848 the heart of English society was instantly captivated with the subtle colors of moss and heather, the mysteries of high gray castle walls and the strict heraldry which still ruled the clans. Typically not hallmarked during this period, the silver hollow-ware back retains its original C clasp and the ring for a safety chain. Own the Queen’s own! Condition: Very Good. Tiny chip on the point of the gray agate crescent on the left. A fleabite on the underside of the rust square on the buckle. A few small dents in the back which are not visible when worn. Size: 2 1/4" high, 2" wide. $675.00
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VJ070

LEAVES OF IRISH BOG OAK ( Victorian Jewelry Irish Bog Oak Bracelet ): This inspired Irish bog oak bracelet is a treat for collectors. Dazzling in design and texture, pieces in this condition are highly sought after. Bog oak is a generic term for oak, fir, pine and yew turned black and hard in the peat-bogs of Ireland. The memory of the appalling distress caused by the great potato famine in Ireland in the mid-1840’s permeated all aesthetic discussion of Irish crafts during the succeeding decades. Every Victorian English purchaser felt that they were to some extent a benefactor to Ireland. The fern leaf design used in this bracelet was registered in 1865. Every leaf vein appears totally natural. The fern leaves were molded by a process that involved the drying and cutting of the wood into a rough shape and then subjecting it to hydraulic or other pressure in steel dies previously heated to a high temperature. The leaves are mounted in 18KT gold gilt and each leaf has a gold rope edge finish. Each of the 3 motifs has a gold ball mounted in the center. The motifs are linked together and snap firmly with a V-spring and box clasp. A bracelet very similar to this is shown on Page 535 of Shirley Bury’s Jewelry, Volume II. Condition: Excellent. Size: 6 1/2" long, central bog oak motif 2" in diameter. Note: This bracelet fits a small wrist only! $425.00
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VJ073

BANDED BEAUTY ( Victorian Jewelry Banded Agate Bracelet ): An enormous round plaque of richly colored black, brown and white banded agate is the centerpiece of this impressively sized Victorian bracelet. Seven similar, but smaller, plaques of banded agate complete the circle around the wrist. Each plaque is framed by a gold-filled classic bezel and lip setting, enhanced by a rope twist border. The bracelet is formed by elastic threaded through two parallel tubes on the back of each agate circle. This clever and comfortable arrangement both conceals and protects the elastic - a fairly new and innovative technical achievement when this bracelet was made around 1850 to 1880. This expandable arrangement eliminated the need for clasps and allowed flexibility in sizing. This bracelet will fit a medium or small wrist. Scaled to be in proportion to the huge crinolines and bustles of mid-Victorian fashion, this banded agate beauty is now a bold statement for a woman of style and confidence. Condition: Excellent. One tiny flea bite not visible to the naked eye. The polish on the stones is mirror-like. Wonderful! Size: Center round agate 1 1/2" diameter, other round agates 3/4" diameter. Total circumference 8 1/4", elastic expands to 11 1/2". $425.00

VJ079

RAPHAEL’S HEAVENLY CHERUB ( Victorian Jewelry Angel Brooch ): All of the world has fallen in love with the Vatican Cherub painting created by Italian Renaissance painter, Raphael. Mounted in a huge brass wire twist bezel frame this romantic brooch with its finely rendered image of the littlest celestial being has been hand painted on porcelain. (c. 1870-1880) The heavenly cherub rests his arm on a cloud and gazes pensively through soulful eyes. What is he thinking? Such delicate skin tones and golden curls embody the angelic symbolism so prized by Victorians. In a time when life and death were so closely linked, Heaven was always a heart beat away. There is an impressed mark on the back which I believe is “15” with “E”below that. The original C clasp and pin stem are in place. Condition: Excellent. No chips, cracks or scratches. Size: 3 1/2” high, 2 7/8” wide, 1/4” deep. $350.00
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IV008

IVORY SNOWDROPS SAY IT’S SPRING ( Art Nouveau Ivory Jewelry Brooch ): I have to admit that I find this brooch to be irresistible. I have never seen this combination of materials and techniques before. Art Nouveau, or possibly Edwardian, this brooch is an exquisite mixture of delicately carved ivory snowdrops set on turquoise guilloche enamel. (Guilloche is a technique using a machine-engraved repeating pattern covered by a transparent colored enamel. Peter Carl Faberge was noted for his use of this enameling process.) The ivory and enamel disk is set in an 800 silver mounting, decorated with small leaves, flowers and a tiny beaded edge around the bezel. The back is fully enclosed in silver with a replacement safety clasp. Hallmarked "L & G" with a series of numbers imprinted at the top of the brooch frame. Such a rich and colorful piece of history! Condition: Excellent. Slight wear on the edge of the setting. 2" in diameter. Ivory Snowdrops 1 1/4" by 1 1/4".

$375.00

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VJ062

ANGELIC PROTECTION: ( Celluloid Jewelry Angel Pendant ): For centuries angels, such as this charming little cherub, have been given the task of protecting the young and innocent. The Victorians often made similar pendants from ivory or coral, to be used as cradle crosses. A charming custom that would look at home in a modern nursery. This late Victorian cherub is made of celluloid, invented in 1868, one of the earliest plastics. The highly dimensional cherub’s head and wings are mounted on a cross shaped plaque and hung within a domed circle suspended from a smaller matching ring. Grandmothers, this is a timeless gift. Condition: Excellent. No apparent flaws or wear. Size: 2 5/8"diameter, top ring adds 1/2", 1/2" deep.

$200.00

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VJ057

VERSATILE VICTORIANA ( Victorian Jewelry Gold Watch Pin ): This glamorous 9 KT Gold Watch Pin is perfect for displaying the grandest of your Victorian pendant pieces. Or you can simply wear it alone as an elegant embodiment of Victorian taste. Two pins in one! It is difficult to find a watch pin of such magnificent style and size. Designed in the "archaeological revival" style (circa 1860 - 1880) with delicate texturing and elaborate taille d’epergne enameling. Taille d’ epernge is an enameling technique in which an engraved design is filled with opaque enamel, usually black. (Also known as " black enamel tracery".) The brooch is multi-layered with a raised foliage and floral centerpiece held in place by rivets. Be sure to look closely at the side view of this lovely Victorian treasure. It fastens with its original C clasp extended pin back and bears a strong hook for holding a watch or locket. Condition: Excellent. No enamel damage. Size: 1 1/2" wide, 1 1/4" high, 1/2" deep.

$300.00

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VJ122

SPIRITUALITY IN THE HIGHEST DEGREE ( Victorian Jewelry Amethyst Cross Pendant ): The timeless beauty of sparkling amethysts has made them one of the most popular of all gems. They have been important spiritual talismans since the time of the Egyptians. This shimmering antique cross dates from the Victorian Romantic Period (c. 1840). The perfectly matched stones are claw set in a silver gilt setting with a large bale. Amethyst is the gem of the House of Fishes – Pisces, the birthstone of February. The ancients wrote that the amethyst has long symbolized spirituality in the highest degree. This verse of tribute was composed in the eleventh century:

                        “On high the Amethyst is set

In color like the violet.

With flames as if of gold it glows

And far its purple radiance throws;

The humble heart it signifies

Of him who in the savior dies.”

Often the rings of Bishops are comprised of amethyst as are rosary beads. This enchanting Victorian Cross of faith brings the beauty and spirit of the past across the ages to you. Condition: Excellent. Size: 3” high (including bale), 1 5/8” wide, 1/4” deep.

SOLD!

VJ135

SUFFRAGETTE COLORS ( Edwardian Jewelry Suffragette Brooch ): As the nineteenth century began, women in England and the United States were battling it out on the political front for woman’s suffrage. The suffragists had a color code which they translated into jewelry: green, white and violet supposedly stood for “Give Women the Vote”. A more complex and accurate explanation for the colors comes from Mrs. Pethick-Lawrence, treasurer and co-author of the newspaper – “Votes for Women”. She introduced the colors at a mass rally in Hyde Park in June, 1908. She explained : “Purple stands for the royal blood that flows in the veins of every suffragette, the instinct of freedom and dignity…white stands for purity in private and public life…green is the color of hope and the emblem of spring.” The correct phrase is “Votes for Women”. This petite brooch is a lasting reminder of that important milestone that led to women gaining the right to vote. (In the U.S. women won this right in 1920.) Most of these jewelry pieces were small symbols worn to let other women know that the wearer was sympathetic to the cause. Marked “800” silver with a vermeil wash, this circular brooch has a faceted amethyst center stone, tiny white pearls and green paste stones. (c. 1910) Delicate in appearance, it is also indicative of the Edwardian taste in jewelry. The back retains its original C clasp. Delightful to the eye and steeped in history, suffragette pieces are scarce and highly collectable. Condition: Excellent. Size: 1” in diameter. Center stone is 3/8” in diameter. SOLD!
 

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