Judy Jay's

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--Last Updated: 09/18/2011 --


Victorian & Ivory Jewelry

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Item: Description: Price:

MJ097

ETERNAL SERPENT ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Snake Brooch / Pin ): This remarkably striking black and white banded agate Mourning Brooch features an 18KT gold plated serpent wrapped around the outer gold circle rim. (c. 1870-80) Beginning with his tail the serpent entwines his body around the black banded agate in gradually wider coils ending with his large head resting upon the top of the agate. Such a wonderful face! The snake has his mouth open and you can see his forked tongue. The serpent is probably the best known and most successful motif drawn from the animal world. Beloved by Queen Victoria, the snake symbolized love, eternity, rebirth, immortality and wisdom. (And you thought it was just a slimy reptile!) This combination – snake and agate – was frequently worn as memorial jewelry. On the back is a circular compartment designed to hold a photo or hair memento under the glass cover. (This compartment can be removed if you choose to enclose a personal memorial.) The original C clasp closure is in place. Regal, yet simple, these snake memorial pieces are highly desirable and a great favorite with collectors. This is a large, majestic brooch that will be hard to top!

Condition: Excellent.
Size: 1 5/8” diameter, 3/4" deep.
$650.00
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VJ084

ROSY-FINGERED DAWN (Victorian / Edwardian Jewelry Locket & Watch Pin ): I purchased a collection of these Art Nouveau (1890-1910) gold-filled lockets because I love the themes they display and their condition is so remarkable. Lockets were a fashion “craze” that has continued to delight ladies to this day. I believe that this locket set with paste brilliants is a late Victorian piece (c. 1890), since this particular subject reached its zenith at that time. Based on a bas-relief by the Danish sculptor, Bertel Thorwaldsen (sculpted in 1815), the winged goddess of Dawn, Aurora (Eos), ushers in the day. Homer described her as “rosy-fingered”, scattering roses on the earth as she welcomes the dawn of another day. She is accompanied by the Genius of Light - a cherubic figure also known as “Daystar Lucifer” - who bears a torch to light the day. A complex subject beautifully rendered. The locket opens from the top and retains the photo rim, but the celluloid photo cover is gone. The gold-filled, ornate, scrolled watch pin is a perfect match in color and style. It closes with a C clasp and early side safety guard. Condition: Excellent. The paste stones are still pristine and the locket fastens securely. I have included the original jump ring if you wish to wear it on a chain. Sold only as a set.  Size: Locket 1 1/4” diameter, with pin 2” long. $325.00
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VJ070

LEAVES OF IRISH BOG OAK ( Victorian Jewelry Irish Bog Oak Bracelet ): This inspired Irish bog oak bracelet is a treat for collectors. Dazzling in design and texture, pieces in this condition are highly sought after. Bog oak is a generic term for oak, fir, pine and yew turned black and hard in the peat-bogs of Ireland. The memory of the appalling distress caused by the great potato famine in Ireland in the mid-1840’s permeated all aesthetic discussion of Irish crafts during the succeeding decades. Every Victorian English purchaser felt that they were to some extent a benefactor to Ireland. The fern leaf design used in this bracelet was registered in 1865. Every leaf vein appears totally natural. The fern leaves were molded by a process that involved the drying and cutting of the wood into a rough shape and then subjecting it to hydraulic or other pressure in steel dies previously heated to a high temperature. The leaves are mounted in 18KT gold gilt and each leaf has a gold rope edge finish. Each of the 3 motifs has a gold ball mounted in the center. The motifs are linked together and snap firmly with a V-spring and box clasp. A bracelet very similar to this is shown on Page 535 of Shirley Bury’s Jewelry, Volume II. Condition: Excellent. Size: 6 1/2" long, central bog oak motif 2" in diameter. Note: This bracelet fits a small wrist only! $375.00
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IV008

IVORY SNOWDROPS SAY IT’S SPRING ( Art Nouveau Ivory Jewelry Brooch ): I have to admit that I find this brooch to be irresistible. I have never seen this combination of materials and techniques before. Art Nouveau, or possibly Edwardian, this brooch is an exquisite mixture of delicately carved ivory snowdrops set on turquoise guilloche enamel. (Guilloche is a technique using a machine-engraved repeating pattern covered by a transparent colored enamel. Peter Carl Faberge was noted for his use of this enameling process.) The ivory and enamel disk is set in an 800 silver mounting, decorated with small leaves, flowers and a tiny beaded edge around the bezel. The back is fully enclosed in silver with a replacement safety clasp. Hallmarked "L & G" with a series of numbers imprinted at the top of the brooch frame. Such a rich and colorful piece of history! Condition: Excellent. Slight wear on the edge of the setting. 2" in diameter. Ivory Snowdrops 1 1/4" by 1 1/4".

$250.00

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VJ057

VERSATILE VICTORIANA ( Victorian Jewelry Gold Watch Pin ): This glamorous 9 KT Gold Watch Pin is perfect for displaying the grandest of your Victorian pendant pieces. Or you can simply wear it alone as an elegant embodiment of Victorian taste. Two pins in one! It is difficult to find a watch pin of such magnificent style and size. Designed in the "archaeological revival" style (circa 1860 - 1880) with delicate texturing and elaborate taille d’epergne enameling. Taille d’ epernge is an enameling technique in which an engraved design is filled with opaque enamel, usually black. (Also known as " black enamel tracery".) The brooch is multi-layered with a raised foliage and floral centerpiece held in place by rivets. Be sure to look closely at the side view of this lovely Victorian treasure. It fastens with its original C clasp extended pin back and bears a strong hook for holding a watch or locket. Condition: Excellent. No enamel damage. Size: 1 1/2" wide, 1 1/4" high, 1/2" deep.

$275.00

VJ018

THE PATH HOME ( Victorian Ivory Jewelry Portrait Miniature Brooch ): This large Victorian brooch combines the very unusual elements of painted Porcelain and Ivory. The diamond shaped frame is a lovely grained Ivory. (The color and grain can be seen best in the close-up of the 2 ladies.) Set under a domed cover is a tranquil, charming polychrome painting on porcelain. Two well-dressed ladies wander down the path that leads home - to a castle with turrets! Trees and bushes dot the landscape with one large tree at the left reaching to the top of the ivory frame. This brooch is probably the late Victorian Period: 1880-1900. The setting appears to be vermeil with a trombone clasp. To open the clasp you pull out the barrel on the end and the pin releases to swing up. It’s the first time I have seen a pin stem that swings up instead of to the side. Quite a clever design. Notice how the porcelain plaque is held in place on the back. The setting is clamped over the Ivory and Porcelain duo. I don’t know what the markings on the back mean. The pin stem also has an unreadable mark. Condition: Very good. A few surface scratches on dome. Total size: 3" wide, 2 1/4" high. Porcelain plaque: 2" wide, 1 3/8" high. Frame: 1/8" wide. $350.00

IV063

THE SCENT OF HEAVENLY ROSES ( Victorian Ivory Jewelry Cross Pendant ): Victorian Romanticism found its perfect expression in carved ivory botanical motifs. The quality of this Antique Rose Cross is so remarkable that it’s a miracle that is has survived. (c. 1860-80) Extravagantly hand carved with many rose blossoms in full bloom, it conveys the message “I love you” in the language of flowers. Carved in Dieppe, France, this ivory has the warm patina of age. Ivory is flattering to all skin tones and this elegant cross with its multitude of blossoms is a small masterpiece of the carver’s art. There is a nice sized bale of silver. Imagine yourself wearing this captivating example of the timeless beauty and the romance of the roses! You can almost smell the heavenly scent of Roses.

Condition: Excellent. This cross would look lovely on a silver chain or an ivory colored cord or ribbon.
Size: 3” long with bale, 1 3/4" wide, 3/8” deep.
SOLD!

VJ200

ON THE VERGE OF THE CENTURY ( Victorian Jewelry “Coral” Locket ): This oval Victorian Locket features a floral bouquet overlay of 18KT gold and silver. (c. 1900) The gold blossoms appear to be a rose, pansy, lilies-of-the-valley and a silver daisy. The blooms have a Japanese influence that gained in popularity as the Art Nouveau period began to catch fire. The locket itself and the original bale are formed of celluloid, invented in 1868 and quickly used by Victorian jewelers because of its light weight and availability. Celluloid had the ability to imitate tortoiseshell, ivory and coral. The soft radiance of the coral color is just stunning. The back of the locket has a gold hinged clear celluloid compartment that opens and closes securely. This compartment would have been used to hold a lock of hair or the image of a dear friend or loved one. You can almost see the turn of the century arriving in this unusual and scarce locket. The heady mix of the coral color teamed with silver and gold is a dynamite combination. Ladies, if you like lockets, this is not one you will see again. Rejoice in the opportunity to own a piece of history so old it looks new again.

Condition: Excellent. Slight wear to metal.
Size: With coral bale 2” long. Locket 1 1/2" high, 1 3/8” wide, 1/4" deep. Locket compartment 1 1/4” high, 7/8” wide. (Medium)
SOLD!
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VJ110

FABULOUS VICTORIAN SWIVEL FOB ( Victorian Jewelry Watch Fob Necklace ): Here is a regal and elegant combination of Victorian splendor. (c. 1860-80) This Antique Pendant is a large and ornate Victorian watch fob. It has an abundance of heavy gold filled relief work comprised of leaf and floral motifs. A sumptuous and thick setting, this fob is also a swivel setting. Intense hues of black, brown and white banded agate with a beveled edge are on the front side and it swivels to a dark green agate. The necklace is made of 12mm banded agate beads which have been re-strung and knotted on silk. The agate color range swirls from gray to brown. The lighter beads accent the rich deep colors in the fob. Now this necklace will remain strong and sturdy. There is a twist barrel clasp. As wearable today as it was over a hundred years ago. Condition: Excellent. No cracks. Gold work is so amazing. Size: Necklace length is 18”. Fob is 2” long, 1 1/2” wide, 1/2” deep. SOLD!

VJ151

AIMING FOR YOUR HEART ( Victorian Jewelry Sterling Silver Arrow Brooch / Pin ): Arrows were a popular motif among the sentimental Victorians. They denoted mortality or “wounded by love”. (How Victorian is that!) This beautifully crafted large Sterling Silver Victorian brooch (dated “1848”) will capture your heart. Wonderful engraving runs the length of the arrow shaft and beveled arrow head. The feathered portion of the brooch appears to be decorated in two different stamped patterns. The real fun begins with the silver looped chain that ends with a suspended fully rounded dangling drop. The pin closure is really fascinating. To open the pin you pull the arrow point forward, thus releasing the pin stem. After you have the stem in place on your garment, you push the pin stem into the little slot that looks like a V closure and then push the arrow head point firmly back into place. It works something like a trombone clasp. This captivating Antique Brooch has registry marks reading “30MARCH, 1848”. (Think of it – over 150 years old!) It also is stamped with the maker’s mark “H&T”, the Hillard & Thompson Co., Birmingham, England. A thoughtful gift for a loved one. It looks wonderful on jackets, sweaters or even shawls. Elegant, refined and a lot of history all in one sleek silver brooch. Bound to win you compliments at work or out on the town in the evening. Condition: Excellent. A few light scratches – they are antique, too. Size: 4 ½” long, 1 ¼” wide, drop hangs 1 ¼” below the arrow tip. SOLD!
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VJ107

A PROMISE OF HOPE ( Victorian Jewelry Jet Brooch ): Anchors were popular as a mourning motif, sometimes representing a loved one lost at sea or referring to the three symbols of Christianity: Faith, Hope & Love, with the anchor representative of Hope. In this gleaming large scale carved Victorian Whitby Jet Brooch the anchor becomes an unforgettable example of Victorian Jewelry at its best. (c. 1850-1860) The shiny jet is jointed to form this design. The stem of the anchor fits into the top and bottom pieces. The silver “rope” appears to be a late addition or replacement. The original C clasp and extended pin stem are still in place. This Antique Brooch is as wearable today as it was over a century and a half ago. Jet is always elegant and sophisticated – fit for a Queen! Condition: Excellent. Some old adhesive at the joints on the back. Size: 3 5/8” high, 2 1/4” wide, 1/4” deep. SOLD!

VJ188

CLAW QUARTET ( Victorian Jewelry Tiger Claw Brooch / Pin ): An elaborate souvenir of the Raj era in India, this 4 Tiger Claw Brooch is quite a grand reminder of the age when British “Great White Hunters” roamed India in search of trophies of their hunting prowess. Definitely mounted in India (c. 1870-90), the top two claws are pointed downward with the addition of 2 golden orbs hanging from chains. The lower two claws are suspended upwards with a golden draped chain linking the two claws near their points. Golden tendrils, leaves and wire flowers decorate the brooch in a manner perfected by Indian craftsmen. There are small blue Indian sapphires at the center of each flower. The brooch is gold plated and the back retains its original C clasp closure. Quite a catch – in ways more than one! A reminder of the British quest for the exotic. I like to picture the lucky Victorian lady who wore this Antique Brooch and who was certainly the envy of her friends. A handsome piece, dripping with style, to add to your jewelry collection.

Condition: Very good. One claw liner is missing – not really noticeable. A few leaves probably surrounded the top flower. Tiny loops on the sides of the two small claws indicate that there was once something more to this brooch.
Size: 2” high, 1 3/4" wide, 1/4” deep.
SOLD!
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VJ122

SPIRITUALITY IN THE HIGHEST DEGREE ( Victorian Jewelry Amethyst Cross Pendant ): The timeless beauty of sparkling amethysts has made them one of the most popular of all gems. They have been important spiritual talismans since the time of the Egyptians. This shimmering antique cross dates from the Victorian Romantic Period (c. 1840). The perfectly matched stones are claw set in a silver gilt setting with a large bale. Amethyst is the gem of the House of Fishes – Pisces, the birthstone of February. The ancients wrote that the amethyst has long symbolized spirituality in the highest degree. This verse of tribute was composed in the eleventh century:

                        “On high the Amethyst is set

In color like the violet.

With flames as if of gold it glows

And far its purple radiance throws;

The humble heart it signifies

Of him who in the savior dies.”

Often the rings of Bishops are comprised of amethyst as are rosary beads. This enchanting Victorian Cross of faith brings the beauty and spirit of the past across the ages to you. Condition: Excellent. Size: 3” high (including bale), 1 5/8” wide, 1/4” deep.

SOLD!

VJ174

CRYSTAL “POOLS OF LIGHT” ( Vintage Jewelry “Pools of Light” Crystal Necklace ): A real treasure, this quartz crystal and silver necklace (c. 1920) holds a large circular orb known as a “pool of light”. It is believed that the source of these beads is the northern slope of Mount Fujiyama in Japan. They are a product of the mount when it erupts in springtime. The crystals then find their way into the stream beds where, over the years, they are polished as they journey over pebbles into the foothill river beds. Finally they were polished to perfection in the lapidary shops of Kofu. Traditionally they have been treasured – especially by the Chinese who believe that good luck resides in the inner recesses of these orbs. “Pools” were never drilled because it was believed that drilling allowed the good luck to pour out of the crystal. The supply of these wonderful crystals seemed to exhaust itself in the 1930’s.

This silver link necklace from the 1920’s is just a delight. There are 13 faceted crystal beads on a finely worked chain tapering down to the crystal orb. The necklace slips over your head. The “pool of light” itself is encircled by an ornate floral surround made of brass. It is difficult to photograph these orbs – they have a grayish appearance in photos. Against the skin or other hues they take on a rainbow of guises. Alive with the vibrancy of another era, the timeless beauty of this antique necklace dances with light. I can see this necklace at one of Gatsby’s moonlight parties glittering and swinging in the air as the band strikes up another dance tune. You will love it!!

Condition: Excellent. No inclusions, no chips.
Size: Chain is 31” long, “pool of light” is 1” in diameter.
SOLD!

VJ182

 LIONS & TIGERS & BEARS! ( Victorian Jewelry Tiger Claw Brooch / Pin ): Tigers are native only to countries of the Asian continent. These magnificent beasts of valor are a living symbol of strength and power that inspire fear and respect. It is fitting that the claws and teeth of the Tiger have been revered and worn as amulets throughout the ages. Fierce and fabulous, this antique 15KT yellow gold brooch encases a large natural Tiger Claw. (c. 1860-70) A gold nugget rests on top of the hand engraved, beaded wire work cap. At the time it was crafted, gold nuggets representative of the American gold rush of the 1850’s and 1860’s were used in jewelry. A stamped golden lion figural rides the curve of the claw. I have seen these claws featuring tigers, elephants and giraffes as additional ornamentation. The back features the original C clasp closure and a replacement pin stem. When the British ruled India, the “great white hunters” sent “Raj” jewelry home to Victorian England as mementos of their hunting expertise. Exotic and intriguing, claw jewelry lets the imagination wander into the mysterious and wonderful land of India.

Condition: Excellent. Due to the organic nature of the claw, there are natural variations in color.
Size: Large, just shy of 2” high, with the lion figural 1 3/8” wide, 1/4” deep.
SOLD!

VJ179

THE BIGGEST & THE BEST of RAJ ( Victorian Jewelry Tiger Claw Brooch / Pin ): This is the largest and most stunning example of a “Raj” Antique Tiger Claw Brooch that I have ever seen. (c.1870-80) In 1876 Queen Victoria was proclaimed Empress of India. That British period of rule, from 1858 until 1947, has come to be known as the British Raj and it has gifted us with an exotic legacy – the style of jewelry known as Raj. The “Great White Hunters” made their mark on fashion by sending home claws and teeth set in gold as mementos of their hunting expertise. At that time there was no concern that the seemingly endless supply of birds and animals would ever become endangered. Set in marked 18KT gold, with gold chasing and engraving, the focal point of this huge claw is a song bird worked in repoussé. The bird is perched on a branch that holds oak leaves (a symbol of victory) and I’m guessing that the trumpet shaped flowers are morning glories (symbolizing the brevity of life). The bird is looking at what appears to be a stylized nest with a single egg in it. This amazing claw brooch was undoubtedly mounted in India. The back of the brooch is marked “18CT” and has a silver replacement safety clasp. The equal of any Museum Quality Raj jewelry, this brooch is meant for a true collector of the mysterious and exotic.

Condition: Excellent. There is some drying of the claw due to its organic nature.
Size: Extremely large, just shy of 2" high, with the tip 2” wide, the gold top 1 1/8" wide, 1/4" deep.
SOLD!
 

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