Judy Jay's

Time Dances By

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Phone: 210-690-8454

--Last Updated: 02/15/2010 --


Victorian & Ivory Jewelry

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Item: Description: Price:
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VJ108

ORNATE COFFEE & MILK AGATE ( Victorian Jewelry Banded Agate Brooch ): Victorian banded agate was usually set in very simple, almost stark, mountings. That may have occurred because of their association with Mourning Jewelry. Obviously, this antique brooch was not intended for that purpose. Ornate scroll and leaf open work of gilded metal provide the setting for the oblong cabochon of agate. (c. 1880) The stone has bands of coffee brown, tan and milky white. A surprising and elegant combination of agate and setting. Both the C clasp and the hinge are careful replacements done long ago. Condition: Excellent. Very light wear to the metal surface. Size: 2 1/4” wide, 2” high. Central agate 1” wide, 5/8” high. $110.00
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VJ107

A PROMISE OF HOPE ( Victorian Jewelry Jet Brooch ): Anchors were popular as a mourning motif, sometimes representing a loved one lost at sea or referring to the three symbols of Christianity: Faith, Hope & Love, with the anchor representative of Hope. In this gleaming large scale carved Victorian Whitby Jet Brooch the anchor becomes an unforgettable example of Victorian Jewelry at its best. (c. 1850-1860) The shiny jet is jointed to form this design. The stem of the anchor fits into the top and bottom pieces. The silver “rope” appears to be a late addition or replacement. The original C clasp and extended pin stem are still in place. This Antique Brooch is as wearable today as it was over a century and a half ago. Jet is always elegant and sophisticated – fit for a Queen! Condition: Excellent. Some old adhesive at the joints on the back. Size: 3 5/8” high, 2 1/4” wide, 1/4” deep. $275.00
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VJ084

ROSY-FINGERED DAWN (Victorian / Edwardian Jewelry Locket & Watch Pin ): I purchased a collection of these Art Nouveau (1890-1910) gold-filled lockets because I love the themes they display and their condition is so remarkable. Lockets were a fashion “craze” that has continued to delight ladies to this day. I believe that this locket set with paste brilliants is a late Victorian piece (c. 1890), since this particular subject reached its zenith at that time. Based on a bas-relief by the Danish sculptor, Bertel Thorwaldsen (sculpted in 1815), the winged goddess of Dawn, Aurora (Eos), ushers in the day. Homer described her as “rosy-fingered”, scattering roses on the earth as she welcomes the dawn of another day. She is accompanied by the Genius of Light - a cherubic figure also known as “Daystar Lucifer” - who bears a torch to light the day. A complex subject beautifully rendered. The locket opens from the top and retains the photo rim, but the celluloid photo cover is gone. The gold-filled, ornate, scrolled watch pin is a perfect match in color and style. It closes with a C clasp and early side safety guard. Condition: Excellent. The paste stones are still pristine and the locket fastens securely. I have included the original jump ring if you wish to wear it on a chain. Sold only as a set.  Size: Locket 1 1/4” diameter, with pin 2” long. $375.00
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VJ070

LEAVES OF IRISH BOG OAK ( Victorian Jewelry Irish Bog Oak Bracelet ): This inspired Irish bog oak bracelet is a treat for collectors. Dazzling in design and texture, pieces in this condition are highly sought after. Bog oak is a generic term for oak, fir, pine and yew turned black and hard in the peat-bogs of Ireland. The memory of the appalling distress caused by the great potato famine in Ireland in the mid-1840’s permeated all aesthetic discussion of Irish crafts during the succeeding decades. Every Victorian English purchaser felt that they were to some extent a benefactor to Ireland. The fern leaf design used in this bracelet was registered in 1865. Every leaf vein appears totally natural. The fern leaves were molded by a process that involved the drying and cutting of the wood into a rough shape and then subjecting it to hydraulic or other pressure in steel dies previously heated to a high temperature. The leaves are mounted in 18KT gold gilt and each leaf has a gold rope edge finish. Each of the 3 motifs has a gold ball mounted in the center. The motifs are linked together and snap firmly with a V-spring and box clasp. A bracelet very similar to this is shown on Page 535 of Shirley Bury’s Jewelry, Volume II. Condition: Excellent. Size: 6 1/2" long, central bog oak motif 2" in diameter. Note: This bracelet fits a small wrist only! $425.00
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VJ073

BANDED BEAUTY ( Victorian Jewelry Banded Agate Bracelet ): An enormous round plaque of richly colored black, brown and white banded agate is the centerpiece of this impressively sized Victorian bracelet. Seven similar, but smaller, plaques of banded agate complete the circle around the wrist. Each plaque is framed by a gold-filled classic bezel and lip setting, enhanced by a rope twist border. The bracelet is formed by elastic threaded through two parallel tubes on the back of each agate circle. This clever and comfortable arrangement both conceals and protects the elastic - a fairly new and innovative technical achievement when this bracelet was made around 1850 to 1880. This expandable arrangement eliminated the need for clasps and allowed flexibility in sizing. This bracelet will fit a medium or small wrist. Scaled to be in proportion to the huge crinolines and bustles of mid-Victorian fashion, this banded agate beauty is now a bold statement for a woman of style and confidence. Condition: Excellent. One tiny flea bite not visible to the naked eye. The polish on the stones is mirror-like. Wonderful! Size: Center round agate 1 1/2" diameter, other round agates 3/4" diameter. Total circumference 8 1/4", elastic expands to 11 1/2". $375.00
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IV008

IVORY SNOWDROPS SAY IT’S SPRING ( Art Nouveau Ivory Jewelry Brooch ): I have to admit that I find this brooch to be irresistible. I have never seen this combination of materials and techniques before. Art Nouveau, or possibly Edwardian, this brooch is an exquisite mixture of delicately carved ivory snowdrops set on turquoise guilloche enamel. (Guilloche is a technique using a machine-engraved repeating pattern covered by a transparent colored enamel. Peter Carl Faberge was noted for his use of this enameling process.) The ivory and enamel disk is set in an 800 silver mounting, decorated with small leaves, flowers and a tiny beaded edge around the bezel. The back is fully enclosed in silver with a replacement safety clasp. Hallmarked "L & G" with a series of numbers imprinted at the top of the brooch frame. Such a rich and colorful piece of history! Condition: Excellent. Slight wear on the edge of the setting. 2" in diameter. Ivory Snowdrops 1 1/4" by 1 1/4".

$375.00

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VJ062

ANGELIC PROTECTION: ( Celluloid Jewelry Angel Pendant ): For centuries angels, such as this charming little cherub, have been given the task of protecting the young and innocent. The Victorians often made similar pendants from ivory or coral, to be used as cradle crosses. A charming custom that would look at home in a modern nursery. This late Victorian cherub is made of celluloid, invented in 1868, one of the earliest plastics. The highly dimensional cherub’s head and wings are mounted on a cross shaped plaque and hung within a domed circle suspended from a smaller matching ring. Grandmothers, this is a timeless gift. Condition: Excellent. No apparent flaws or wear. Size: 2 5/8"diameter, top ring adds 1/2", 1/2" deep.

$175.00

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VJ057

VERSATILE VICTORIANA ( Victorian Jewelry Gold Watch Pin ): This glamorous 9 KT Gold Watch Pin is perfect for displaying the grandest of your Victorian pendant pieces. Or you can simply wear it alone as an elegant embodiment of Victorian taste. Two pins in one! It is difficult to find a watch pin of such magnificent style and size. Designed in the "archaeological revival" style (circa 1860 - 1880) with delicate texturing and elaborate taille d’epergne enameling. Taille d’ epernge is an enameling technique in which an engraved design is filled with opaque enamel, usually black. (Also known as " black enamel tracery".) The brooch is multi-layered with a raised foliage and floral centerpiece held in place by rivets. Be sure to look closely at the side view of this lovely Victorian treasure. It fastens with its original C clasp extended pin back and bears a strong hook for holding a watch or locket. Condition: Excellent. No enamel damage. Size: 1 1/2" wide, 1 1/4" high, 1/2" deep.

$275.00

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VJ018

THE PATH HOME ( Victorian Ivory Jewelry Portrait Miniature Brooch ): This large Victorian brooch combines the very unusual elements of painted Porcelain and Ivory. The diamond shaped frame is a lovely grained Ivory. (The color and grain can be seen best in the close-up of the 2 ladies.) Set under a domed cover is a tranquil, charming polychrome painting on porcelain. Two well-dressed ladies wander down the path that leads home - to a castle with turrets! Trees and bushes dot the landscape with one large tree at the left reaching to the top of the ivory frame. This brooch is probably the late Victorian Period: 1880-1900. The setting appears to be vermeil with a trombone clasp. To open the clasp you pull out the barrel on the end and the pin releases to swing up. It’s the first time I have seen a pin stem that swings up instead of to the side. Quite a clever design. Notice how the porcelain plaque is held in place on the back. The setting is clamped over the Ivory and Porcelain duo. I don’t know what the markings on the back mean. The pin stem also has an unreadable mark. Condition: Very good. A few surface scratches on dome. Total size: 3" wide, 2 1/4" high. Porcelain plaque: 2" wide, 1 3/8" high. Frame: 1/8" wide. $350.00

VJ142

RADIANT GEORGIAN GARNETS ( Georgian Jewelry Garnet & Pearl Brooch / Pin ): Shimmering deep red garnets encrust the surface of this late Georgian leaf shaped brooch. Detail is certainly key to Georgian jewelry and this c. 1820 brooch is all about detail! The entire leaf is curved and dimensional with graduated tiny pearls forming the center veins on each leaf. The tiny pearls continue up the stem of the leaf. The multi-sized garnets are all faceted to add sheer brilliance. Nature themes have been popular throughout the ages and this leaf shape is both elegant and opulent. The workmanship is extremely fine and the piece is probably English in origin. The closed back setting is silver with a light gold wash. The entire back is covered with an elaborate chased design and retains its original C clasp closure. Garnets are the January birthstone and you won’t find a lovelier brooch – the radiance and glow of garnets is incomparable. Flashes of red contrasted with the pearls makes this on of the most captivating garnet pieces that we have had the pleasure of offering. Condition: Excellent and all original. No stones missing. Size: Leaf is 2 1/4” high, 2” wide and curves 1/2” deep. SOLD!

VJ176

EXOTIC “POOLS OF LIGHT” ( Vintage Jewelry “Pools of Light” Crystal Necklace ): Exotic and mysterious, this necklace is set with 22 fabulous quartz crystal orbs, known as “pools of light”. (c. 1925) It is believed that the source of these beads is the northern slope of Mount Fujiyama in Japan. They were a product of the mount when it erupted in springtime. The crystals then found their way into the stream beds where, over the years, they were polished as they journeyed over pebbles into the foothill river beds. Finally they were polished to perfection in the lapidary shops of Kofu. Traditionally they have been treasured – especially by the Chinese who believe that good luck resides in the inner recesses of these orbs. “Pools” were never drilled because it was believed that drilling allowed the good luck to pour out of the crystal. The supply of these wonderful crystals seems to have exhausted itself in the 1930’s.

This 18” silver link necklace from the ‘20’s is a true delight. The 22 rock crystal globes are covered by coin silver floral motif wraps. Fine silver links in between complete the look. It is difficult to photograph these orbs – they have a grayish appearance in photos – absorbing the light. Against one’s skin, or other hues, they take on a rainbow of guises. There is a large hook that you can easily fasten without help. It may be a replacement, but it certainly is convenient. This crystal jewelry is always Chinese in origin, although often made for the European market. Alive with the vibrancy of another era, the timeless beauty of this antique necklace dances with light. Highly sought after by collectors, there will be no more “pools of light”.

Condition: Excellent. As expected, the slightest sign of wear to the silver.
Size: 18” long, each orb is 1/2” in diameter.
SOLD!
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VJ122

SPIRITUALITY IN THE HIGHEST DEGREE ( Victorian Jewelry Amethyst Cross Pendant ): The timeless beauty of sparkling amethysts has made them one of the most popular of all gems. They have been important spiritual talismans since the time of the Egyptians. This shimmering antique cross dates from the Victorian Romantic Period (c. 1840). The perfectly matched stones are claw set in a silver gilt setting with a large bale. Amethyst is the gem of the House of Fishes – Pisces, the birthstone of February. The ancients wrote that the amethyst has long symbolized spirituality in the highest degree. This verse of tribute was composed in the eleventh century:

                        “On high the Amethyst is set

In color like the violet.

With flames as if of gold it glows

And far its purple radiance throws;

The humble heart it signifies

Of him who in the savior dies.”

Often the rings of Bishops are comprised of amethyst as are rosary beads. This enchanting Victorian Cross of faith brings the beauty and spirit of the past across the ages to you. Condition: Excellent. Size: 3” high (including bale), 1 5/8” wide, 1/4” deep.

SOLD!

VJ174

CRYSTAL “POOLS OF LIGHT” ( Vintage Jewelry “Pools of Light” Crystal Necklace ): A real treasure, this quartz crystal and silver necklace (c. 1920) holds a large circular orb known as a “pool of light”. It is believed that the source of these beads is the northern slope of Mount Fujiyama in Japan. They are a product of the mount when it erupts in springtime. The crystals then find their way into the stream beds where, over the years, they are polished as they journey over pebbles into the foothill river beds. Finally they were polished to perfection in the lapidary shops of Kofu. Traditionally they have been treasured – especially by the Chinese who believe that good luck resides in the inner recesses of these orbs. “Pools” were never drilled because it was believed that drilling allowed the good luck to pour out of the crystal. The supply of these wonderful crystals seemed to exhaust itself in the 1930’s.

This silver link necklace from the 1920’s is just a delight. There are 13 faceted crystal beads on a finely worked chain tapering down to the crystal orb. The necklace slips over your head. The “pool of light” itself is encircled by an ornate floral surround made of brass. It is difficult to photograph these orbs – they have a grayish appearance in photos. Against the skin or other hues they take on a rainbow of guises. Alive with the vibrancy of another era, the timeless beauty of this antique necklace dances with light. I can see this necklace at one of Gatsby’s moonlight parties glittering and swinging in the air as the band strikes up another dance tune. You will love it!!

Condition: Excellent. No inclusions, no chips.
Size: Chain is 31” long, “pool of light” is 1” in diameter.
SOLD!
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VJ049

QUEEN VICTORIA’S PASSION ( Victorian Jewelry Antique Scottish Agate Brooch ): This large magnificent Victorian Silver Scottish Agate Brooch represents the best of the fashion "for all things Scottish". Queen Victoria’s pride in her Stuart ancestry and the popularity of Sir Walter Scott’s romantic novels made Scottish Jewelry a fashionable accessory (1840 - 1870). This thick complex brooch is the Order of the Garter Strap and Buckle, the chivalric order headed by Queen Victoria. She wore this order on her arm. Elaborately engraved, this brooch is set with red jasper, gray agate, carnelian and bloodstone. This ancient stone is actually a dark green chalcedony with flecks of red, hence the name, bloodstone. Many magical ancient powers were ascribed to it, including the power to stop bleeding and preserve health. When the Queen purchased Balmoral Castle in 1848 the heart of English society was instantly captivated with the subtle colors of moss and heather, the mysteries of high gray castle walls and the strict heraldry which still ruled the clans. Typically not hallmarked during this period, the silver hollow-ware back retains its original C clasp and the ring for a safety chain. Own the Queen’s own! Condition: Very Good. Tiny chip on the point of the gray agate crescent on the left. A fleabite on the underside of the rust square on the buckle. A few small dents in the back which are not visible when worn. Size: 2 1/4" high, 2" wide. SOLD!
 

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