Time Dances By - Victorian & Ivory Jewelry

Item:	Description:	Price:
VJ173	ROYAL GREYHOUND ( Victorian Jewelry Greyhound Fob / Pendant ): Victorians loved their dogs – lap dogs or working dogs, sight hounds or scent hounds. Greyhounds are also known as sight hounds because they hunt by speed and sight. Royalty bet vast sums on the outcome of a day race and kept Italian greyhounds in their households. Exquisitely sculpted in Sterling Silver with a vermeil (gold wash) collar and base, a greyhound, whippet or Italian greyhound has been masterfully modeled in a sitting position. Realistically rendered, musculature and anatomy are without question that of a sight hound. He is captured turning his head as if he has just heard his name called. He has one paw lifted and his tail is charmingly wrapped around his leg. There is a ring on his engraved collar, large enough to pass a chain through. The deep reddish brown oval carnelian fob base is engraved with the name “Eugine Amphoux”. (c. 1880) The striking combination of colors – silver, gold and carnelian – is elegant and regal. Outstanding in its entirety, this antique fob/pendant is a masterpiece of the jeweler’s art. Medium to large in scale, this Victorian greyhound fob/pendant is eye catching and full of wonderful character. Won’t you please adopt this appealing greyhound and give him a “forever” home? Condition: Excellent. No chips. Size: 1 ½” high, oval carnelian base is 1 ½” long, 1” wide.	SOLD!
VJ144	ARTS & CRAFTS PEACOCK EYE NECKLACE ( Arts & Crafts Jewelry Peacock Eye Necklace ): This rare peacock eye bead necklace is a treasure from a recent buying trip. It is the embodiment of the Arts & Crafts Movement. (c. 1890-1920) The practitioners of the Arts & Crafts Movement were revivalists of a sort, but they re-interpreted the past. They rebelled against the excesses of Victorian ornamentation. In jewelry the intrinsic value of the materials was of secondary importance to design and workmanship. Most Arts & Crafts artisans preferred silver to gold and cabochon cut gem stones to faceted ones. These dazzling blue and green Peacock Eye irregular shaped beads are hand crafted foiled glass. Seven shimmering beads are strung together on a bronze colored foxtail chain. There are hand-tied knots on each side of the Peacock Eye beads and the necklace closure is a spring ring clasp. The bronze colored chain is an unusual, but perfect compliment, to the blue and green eyes. There is currently a huge revival of interest in the Arts & Crafts style. These “Peacock Eye” pieces are scarce and in high demand. I love their unique iridescent shine and intense colors. Wear them with denim or silk – for work or play. Condition: Excellent. The spring ring clasp may be a replacement. Size: Total length of necklace is 31 1/2”. It is long enough to wrap twice around your neck, but the full splendor of the beads is best displayed when worn long. Each Peacock Bead is approximately 5/8”.	SOLD!
VJ187	THE HUNTER AND THE HUNTED ( Victorian Jewelry Tiger Claw Brooch / Pin ): One of the many seemingly odd Victorian traits was their unending appetite for exotic jewelry from exotic places. This wonderful 9KT gold Antique Double Tiger Claw Brooch illustrates the rage for items from India. In 1876 Queen Victoria was proclaimed the Empress of India, so it is not surprising that Mogul jewelry and elaborately set tiger claws made their appearance. The “Great White Hunters” made their mark on fashion – jewelry was frequently sent home as a memento of their hunting expertise. At that time there was no concern that the seemingly endless supply of birds and animals would ever become endangered. This superb large double claw Antique Tiger Claw Brooch (c. 1880-90) was mounted in India in the traditional style. The size of the claws makes this brooch a real treasure. A double sided figural of a lion is seated with his paw on a golden orb – no doubt representing England’s rule over much of the world. The filigree work is very fine and the saw-tooth cover on the inside of the claws indicates a Victorian Tiger Claw Brooch that is superior in all ways. There is a C clasp closure. The regal and dramatic trophy brooch is an unforgettable example of the Victorian quest for the exotic. Simply magnificent! Condition: Excellent. Very well done mounting (see photos of the back). A natural drying of the organic claws. Includes original black leather box high-lighted with gold leaf, a deep wine velvet bed and a cream satin lid liner. Box is in good condition and closes firmly with a brass hinge and push button fastener. Size: 2” wide, 2” high, 1/4” deep.	SOLD!
VJ193	THE QUEEN’S FAVORITE ( Victorian Jewelry Essex Crystal Pug Stick Pin ): It is hard to part with this fine quality reverse Crystal Carving of a precious pug. (c.1870-80) Beloved pets of Queen Victoria, she outlawed the cropping of pug’s ears. This beautifully made English 15KT gold twisted cable bezel mount is set with a fine rock crystal cabochon which has been hand carved from the back. The depression left by the carving is then hand painted in minute detail. The painted area ,when viewed from the front, assumes a 3-dimensional effect. This very proper pug must have been someone’s pet. Notice the blue Victorian collar with a golden bell in the front. The pin stem is spiral cut and textured to assure a firm hold on fabrics. This Antique Pug Stick Pin comes along with its original maroon leatherette box. The push button closure works fine. The interior of the box lid is lined with a deep green satin and the pin holder is a deep green velvet. These scarce crystals now command spiraling prices and are highly sought after by animal collectors. Pug people – this would make a wonderful gift for a man or a woman. Condition: Excellent. All original with just a tiny bit of loss to the blue collar not seen by the naked eye. The box is sturdy but shows signs of wear consistent with it age. Size: Crystal portion is 3/4" diameter, 1/4" deep. Pin stem is 2 3/8” long.	SOLD!
VJ181	CANDLELIGHT SPARKLERS ( Victorian Jewelry Cut Steel Earrings ): These large dangling Cut Steel Earrings for pierced ears are a stunning example of Victorian cut steel jewelry. (c.1860-70) Probably French in origin, these large light weight fully articulated earrings shimmer and glint from every angle – all of the free swinging parts allow for maximum glitter!. Used as an alternative for the look and impact of early cut diamonds, cut steel in jewelry became a highly refined process. Each small steel bead or stud is hand cut, faceted, polished and painstakingly riveted onto a metal (typically brass) back piece. The steel studs are densely set to provide remarkable brilliance. (Our photos can not nearly capture the true appearance.) As the light dances from one facet to another, you can imagine the sparkling effect when worn swirling at a ball. The original hook earring backs have been replaced with posts at some time in the earlier history of the elegant earrings. These beauties are certainly “eye dazzlers”! We often think of steel being durable – in actuality cut steel did not often survive the centuries and earring of this material are extremely difficult to obtain. Naturally this has made them highly prized by collectors. Simply divine and flattering to every face, the condition of these earrings is remarkable. Picture wearing these to dinner parties or the ballet. All eyes will be on you! Condition: Excellent. No rust. One tiny cut steel bead is missing from one of the marquise shaped dangles. No visible to the naked eye. Earring backs are newer and larger – easier to handle. Size: 2 3/4" long from the top, 1 3/4" at widest point.	SOLD!
VJ142	RADIANT GEORGIAN GARNETS ( Georgian Jewelry Garnet & Pearl Brooch / Pin ): Shimmering deep red garnets encrust the surface of this late Georgian leaf shaped brooch. Detail is certainly key to Georgian jewelry and this c. 1820 brooch is all about detail! The entire leaf is curved and dimensional with graduated tiny pearls forming the center veins on each leaf. The tiny pearls continue up the stem of the leaf. The multi-sized garnets are all faceted to add sheer brilliance. Nature themes have been popular throughout the ages and this leaf shape is both elegant and opulent. The workmanship is extremely fine and the piece is probably English in origin. The closed back setting is silver with a light gold wash. The entire back is covered with an elaborate chased design and retains its original C clasp closure. Garnets are the January birthstone and you won’t find a lovelier brooch – the radiance and glow of garnets is incomparable. Flashes of red contrasted with the pearls makes this on of the most captivating garnet pieces that we have had the pleasure of offering. Condition: Excellent and all original. No stones missing. Size: Leaf is 2 1/4” high, 2” wide and curves 1/2” deep.	SOLD!
VJ176	EXOTIC “POOLS OF LIGHT” ( Vintage Jewelry “Pools of Light” Crystal Necklace ): Exotic and mysterious, this necklace is set with 22 fabulous quartz crystal orbs, known as “pools of light”. (c. 1925) It is believed that the source of these beads is the northern slope of Mount Fujiyama in Japan. They were a product of the mount when it erupted in springtime. The crystals then found their way into the stream beds where, over the years, they were polished as they journeyed over pebbles into the foothill river beds. Finally they were polished to perfection in the lapidary shops of Kofu. Traditionally they have been treasured – especially by the Chinese who believe that good luck resides in the inner recesses of these orbs. “Pools” were never drilled because it was believed that drilling allowed the good luck to pour out of the crystal. The supply of these wonderful crystals seems to have exhausted itself in the 1930’s. This 18” silver link necklace from the ‘20’s is a true delight. The 22 rock crystal globes are covered by coin silver floral motif wraps. Fine silver links in between complete the look. It is difficult to photograph these orbs – they have a grayish appearance in photos – absorbing the light. Against one’s skin, or other hues, they take on a rainbow of guises. There is a large hook that you can easily fasten without help. It may be a replacement, but it certainly is convenient. This crystal jewelry is always Chinese in origin, although often made for the European market. Alive with the vibrancy of another era, the timeless beauty of this antique necklace dances with light. Highly sought after by collectors, there will be no more “pools of light”. Condition: Excellent. As expected, the slightest sign of wear to the silver. Size: 18” long, each orb is 1/2” in diameter.	SOLD!
IV052	IVORY BIRD NESTED IN FLORAL SPLENDOR ( Victorian Ivory Jewelry Bird & Floral Brooch / Pin ): I am pleased to offer one of the most intricate and captivating examples of Victorian Romanticism captured in carved ivory. (c. 1860-80) Botanical and nature themes combine in this, delicate carving of a bird perched on the edge of her nest guarding two precious ivory eggs. The nest is carefully hidden in a spray of cabbage roses, buds & leaves. The thorny boughs will add additional protection from predators. These miniature floral masterpieces reached great heights in the mid to late 19th century when the colorless jewels became the vogue. Look at the fine, yet lush, carving of the roses. They are marvels of skill and artistry. The rose buds and leaves are lacy and airy. The tiny feathers are carved in realistic, precise detail – even her eyes and beak are daintily rendered. This antique brooch was certainly a treasure brought back as a tourist souvenir from Dieppe, France, where the most skillful workers practiced their craft. The carving has a creamy light patina and glossy highlights. The back retains its original C clasp & pin stem closure. The vibrancy of nature has found its most perfect expression in the timeless beauty of this superb Victorian Ivory brooch. Condition: Excellent. The Ivory is flawless. Size: 2” wide, 1 5/8” high, 3/8” deep.	SOLD!
VJ149	I GIVE YOU MY HEART ( Victorian Jewelry Sterling Snake Brooch / Pin ): This is simply one of the best Victorian snake brooches that I have ever seen. Large and finely detailed, this serpent carries a cobalt blue enamel heart in his mouth. (c. 1860-80) A powerful symbol of love, the snake was celebrated by Victorians who followed the example set by Queen Victoria. Her passionate husband, Prince Albert, gave her many pieces of jewelry featuring the snake motif – including her engagement ring. This captivating Antique Sterling Silver Snake twists and turns in undulating loops. Every scale is deeply engraved. His beautifully formed head has bezel set garnet eyes. Unlike many of these talismans of love, this brooch still retains its original blue enamel heart, set with a tiny half pearl. In profile you can see that the snake has an open mouth. The back has a replacement C clasp closure. (There are scratch marks on the back from previous owners testing the silver.) I have not polished it since I’ve had it because I love the rich look of the scales. Grand in size, this snake brooch is a seductive and alluring work of the jeweler’s art. The essence of the 19th Century is yours to touch, hold and treasure for another lifetime. Condition: Excellent. There is a tiny pinhole at the top of the silver on the back of the heart. It does not show when wearing the brooch. Size: 3” wide, loops are 1 1/4” high & 3/8” deep. Heart is 1/2” high & wide, 1/4” deep.	SOLD!
VJ156	TAJ MAHAL – THE JEWEL OF INDIA ( Victorian Jewelry Taj Mahal Ivory Portrait Miniature Brooch ): I am offering a gorgeous Antique Brooch from my personal collection. It is a large sumptuous painted ivory view of the Taj Mahal, India’s most famous architectural wonder. (c. 1880) The Taj was commissioned by Emperor Shah Jahan in memory of his beloved wife. As a tribute to a beautiful woman and as a monument for enduring love, construction began in 1631 and was completed in 22 years. Within the onion shaped dome lies the jewel inlaid cenotaph of the queen. The beauty of this brooch is enhanced by the addition of the large reflection pool, luscious greenery and puffy clouds floating in a blue sky. The Taj is so delicately painted that it has an almost lace-like quality. The ivory miniature is bezel set high above the ornate engraved, jeweler tested 10KT gold setting. Once India became part of the British Empire Victorians flocked to India to see this highlight of their “grand tour”. The painted miniatures were brought home and mounted extravagantly in London. Both the front and back are covered with beveled glass and the back of the painting contains a compartment where a photo or hair memento could be placed. The elongated pin stem may be an early replacement. The closure is a C clasp with an extra curl that acts like a safety clasp. The tiny ring at the top is where a safety chain was attached. All of the romance you could possibly want, this brooch would be a treasured part of any collection. What a perfect gift of Love! Condition: Excellent. A touch of dust under the glass and a tiny nibble to the glass cover at 3 o’clock – not visible to the naked eye. The colors are fresh and vivid. Size: Entire brooch 2 5/8” wide, 2 1/8” high, 5/8” deep. Painting is 1 7/8” wide 1 1/2“ high.	SOLD!
VJ167	GOLDEN BIRD AND CLAW ( Victorian Tiger Claw Jewelry Brooch/Pin ) This is one of the most stunning and elaborate example of “Raj” tiger claw brooches that I have seen. (c.1870-80). Set in 18KT gold, with gold chasing and engraving, the focal point is a song bird, containing great detail in its feathers, set atop a bow & arrow. The bird has its wings extended, and its chest feathers are "puffed"out over the tail feathers. The head extends out to the side. The golden surround at the bottom of the claw and the golden cap on top of the claw have a very fine basket weave background with a lovely looped pattern of gold strands. The top itself has whorls of gold wires that are really breath taking. The bow, bow string & arrow also contain fine detailing and all are 3 dimensional. This amazing large tiger claw brooch was undoubtedly mounted in India. The original C clasp has been replaced with a safety clasp. This brooch is in perfect condition and the almost "frosted" look of the gold is soooo beautiful. The equal of any Museum quality brooch, meant for a true collector of the mysterious and exotic. Condition: Excellent. Size: 1 1/2" high, 1 5/8" wide, 1/2" deep.	SOLD!
VJ143	PIQUÉ FROM THE SEA ( Victorian Jewelry Piqué Earrings ): Piqué is by definition, gold and silver decoration on tortoiseshell. Skilled artisans, using tortoiseshell as a base, carved out specific designs or shapes from metal and then inlayed them into the shell. I was fortunate to obtain these large, very beautiful silver lily-of-the-valley Victorian earrings for pierced ears. (c. 1860-80) The versatility of tortoiseshell, with its rich colors, has helped to make it one of the most popular, sought after materials to come from the sea. Its natural markings are patches of translucent sherry-gold mingled with cloudy chestnut – and they give a fascinating depth to a smooth surface. Slightly curved, these shell earrings have been inlayed with ribbons of silver along the edge and a central floral design of lily-of-the-valley. These flowers symbolize the return of happiness and, in combination with tortoiseshell, would have been suitable for half-mourning. Probably English in origin, these piqué pierced earrings are a delight to hold, touch and wear. Recently all organic materials have sky-rocketed in price due to the rising interest among collectors. Feel the pulse of the 19^th Century by adding these beauties to your Victorian jewelry box. Condition: Excellent. A few light scratches – they are antique, too! The ear wires may be later replacements. The photos make one earring appear lighter than the other. This is the result of the marbleizing of the shell. They look the same color in reality. Size: Full drop is 2 1/8 long. Shell is 1 5/8” long, 1 1/2” wide with a curve of almost 1/4”.	SOLD!
VJ141	RAJ RHINOS & TIGERS: ( Victorian Jewelry Tiger Claw Cufflinks ): One of the many seemingly odd Victorian traits was their unending appetite for exotic jewelry from exotic places. These wonderful Antique English Sterling Silver Tiger Claw and Rhinoceros Cufflinks illustrates the rage for items from India (c. 1880 – 90). In 1876 Victoria was proclaimed the Empress of India, so it is not surprising that Mogul jewelry and elaborately set tiger claws made their appearance. The “Great White Hunters” made their mark on fashion – jewelry and other small objects were frequently sent home as mementos of their hunting expertise. This versatile pair of tiger claws is set in Sterling mounts, the tips enclosed by tiny Sterling Silver balls. (They slip easily in & out of your cuffs.) At the other end of the chain links is a very detailed little 3 dimensional rhinoceros - the horn projecting above his head. The cat claws combined with the rhinos achieve a most unusual and elegant, yet whimsical, effect. Most of the tiger claw jewelry was made into pendants or brooches for wives and sweethearts, but this unusual set of cufflinks was certainly intended for the hunter himself or a male family member. The top edge of the silver claw mount is marked “Silver”. Both striking and eye-catching – these reminders of the Raj will get attention in any crowd. What a story they tell! Condition: Excellent. No drying of claws. Slight wear on silver. Size: Claw – 1 1/8” long, 1/2”high, 1/8” deep. Rhino – 3/4” long, 3/8” high, 1/8” deep. Chain links – 5/8” long.	SOLD!
VJ129	SCOTTISH SYMPHONY ( Victorian Jewelry Scottish Agate Brooch ): A refined Antique Scottish Brooch is a “must have” in any collection of Victorian Jewelry. Many of these 19^th Century Scottish pieces were made in response to the romantic interest in Scotland that was stimulated by the frequent visits of Queen Victoria and the writings of Sir Walter Scott. Victoria and Albert spent many relaxed and happy days at Balmoral Castle. This superbly crafted brooch is a symphony in color. Regal and elegant, the agate stones range in color from gray to rust - cut from a variety of colored jasper and striated gray agate. The Sterling Silver setting provides a cool contrast to the agate stones. The entire back of the brooch is enclosed in silver and retains its original C clasp and safety chain. Quite grand in scale, this unforgettable Scottish brooch is as wearable – and fashionable – today as it was 150 years ago. Condition: Excellent. Size: 2 5/8" high, 2 5/8" wide, almost 1/4” deep.	SOLD!
IV039	DIVINE HARVEST ( Victorian Jewelry Ivory Locket ): Meticulously hand carved by a master carver, this exquisite Victorian Locket features a sheaf of wheat as its central motif. (c. 1870-90) An Ivory Locket such as this captivating French piece would be given as a token of marital bliss or sorrow. The wheat sheaf was representative of divine harvest and marital fertility. If this image appeared on a memorial piece it conveyed sorrow over the death of an aged loved one. This wheat motif has been carved directly into the locket front, a much more difficult process than the way most lockets were carved. The design was usually carved separately and then “pegged” into the locket cover. The large grooved bale is just lovely – the overall ivory grain and patina are rich and warm. This locket opens from the left and retains its original gold rimmed fabric liners and covers. It would look outstanding on a ribbon, chain or ivory beads. A Victorian treasure so modern in look and feel, but with a far more intimate personal aura. One of the most beautiful Antique Ivory Lockets I have found and sturdy enough to wear often. Condition: Excellent. Truly superb! Size: Locket with bale 2 1/2” long, 1 5/8” wide, 5/8” deep.	SOLD!
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