Judy Jay's

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--Last Updated: 07/21/2008 --


Victorian & Ivory Jewelry

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VJ018

THE PATH HOME ( Victorian Ivory Jewelry Portrait Miniature Brooch ): This large Victorian brooch combines the very unusual elements of painted Porcelain and Ivory. The diamond shaped frame is a lovely grained Ivory. (The color and grain can be seen best in the close-up of the 2 ladies.) Set under a domed cover is a tranquil, charming polychrome painting on porcelain. Two well-dressed ladies wander down the path that leads home - to a castle with turrets! Trees and bushes dot the landscape with one large tree at the left reaching to the top of the ivory frame. This brooch is probably the late Victorian Period: 1880-1900. The setting appears to be vermeil with a trombone clasp. To open the clasp you pull out the barrel on the end and the pin releases to swing up. It’s the first time I have seen a pin stem that swings up instead of to the side. Quite a clever design. Notice how the porcelain plaque is held in place on the back. The setting is clamped over the Ivory and Porcelain duo. I don’t know what the markings on the back mean. The pin stem also has an unreadable mark. Condition: Very good. A few surface scratches on dome. Total size: 3" wide, 2 1/4" high. Porcelain plaque: 2" wide, 1 3/8" high. Frame: 1/8" wide. $435.00
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VJ030

BRILLIANT LADY LOCKET ( Art Nouveau Jewelry Gold Locket ):  I love this circa 1900 Art Nouveau styled gold filled locket. These pieces were particularly fashionable during the 1895 - 1915 Art Nouveau period. The motifs have an element of fantasy with "whiplash" curves and sensual overtones. The female face and figure were a favorite motif of Art Nouveau. This die stamped locket shows just such a woman’s face with flowing hair. It is set with 13 "brilliants" (paste stones). The remarkable thing is that none of these stones have darkened. The back of the locket is engraved in script "Nina". These name or initial lockets were tremendously popular. The inside retains both of its celluloid photo covers and is stamped "W & H Co.". I have several pieces that came from this same wonderful collection. Condition: Excellent. Still retains its original jump ring. 1 1/2" in diameter. $155.00
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VJ046

GRAND GLASGOW GLITTER ( Vintage Scottish Jewelry Agate Brooch ): This very attractive vintage Scottish silver brooch comes directly from a private owner sale. Fully hallmarked with the, now defunct, Glasgow hallmarks for 1953 and the maker’s mark "<WBs>". All things Scottish are highly collectible. Set with pristine agates in shades of rust, soft green and a mottled mauve, each accents the large amethyst colored stone in the center. The center stone is faceted both in the front and the back to make it glitter more. All of the claw setting is perfect and the engraved decoration shows no wear. A perfect jacket or shawl brooch. The pin back has a safety catch. Condition: Excellent. All original fittings. One tiny chip on back of stone, but does not show at all. 1 7/8" wide, 1 3/4" high. $185.00
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VJ052

MARCASITE DECO DELIGHTS ( Art Deco Jewelry Carnelian Earrings ): Each of these sleek Art Deco styled Earrings feature three triangular pieces of carnelian, topped by a round cabochon of carnelian in an open backed sterling silver setting designed to let the translucency of the stones be seen and appreciated. The carnelian triangles are framed in marcasites pave set in sterling silver (marked 925). Marcasites are really iron pyrite, with a silver luster, cut in small faceted circular stones. The earrings dangle from shepherd’s hook wires and probably date from the middle of the 20th century. They glitter and gleam as they dance in your ears! Condition: Excellent. No marcasites missing and these are not those new bright reproductions. Size: 1 5/8 long, 1/2" wide. $35.00

VJ167

GOLDEN BIRD AND CLAW ( Victorian Tiger Claw Jewelry Brooch/Pin ) This is one of the most stunning and elaborate example of “Raj” tiger claw brooches that I have seen. (c.1870-80). Set in 18KT gold, with gold chasing and engraving, the focal point is a song bird, containing great detail in its feathers, set atop a bow & arrow. The bird has its wings extended, and its chest feathers are "puffed"out over the tail feathers. The head extends out to the side. The golden surround at the bottom of the claw and the golden cap on top of the claw have a very fine basket weave background with a lovely looped pattern of gold strands. The top itself has whorls of gold wires that are really breath taking. The bow, bow string & arrow also contain fine detailing and all are 3 dimensional. This amazing large tiger claw brooch was undoubtedly mounted in India. The original C clasp has been replaced with a safety clasp. This brooch is in perfect condition and the almost "frosted" look of the gold is soooo beautiful. The equal of any Museum quality brooch, meant for a true collector of the mysterious and exotic. Condition: Excellent. Size: 1 1/2" high, 1 5/8" wide, 1/2" deep. SOLD!

VJ163

THE CALL OF THE SEA ( Victorian Jewelry Coral Brooch / Pin & Earrings Set ): Coral presents a certain mystery: first it was pronounced a mineral, then a vegetable and today it is declared an animal. Regardless of its nature, coral has been a symbol of beauty, hope and protection against evil since classical times. This set of jewelry is a perfect example of the classic simplicity which was a guiding influence in this style of Victorian coral ornaments. (1840-60) Entire villages in Italy were engaged in the making of coral beads, drops and spheres, such as you see here. This set is an exquisite shade of light salmon (more pink than orange) with swirls of white visible. The brooch is comprised of 3 different sizes of slightly flattened polished spheres with a center elongated oval drop. The matching earrings have 2 sizes of spheres with three beautiful free swinging drops. The fresh water pearls are replacements for the original coral spheres lost in the past. The pearls make a very lovely paring with the coral. Set in jeweler tested 10KT gold, both the shepard’s hook ear wires and the C clasp pin stem have an indiscernible hallmark stamped on them. It is unusual to find a set still intact. The earrings were often taken apart and sold as pendants. Coral has become increasingly expensive as the seas have been stripped of this irreplaceable marine treasure. Always flattering and feminine, Antique Coral Jewelry remains seductive and alluring. Condition: Excellent. Coral is flawless. On the back of the brooch you can see the tiny loops that once held four other dangles. Size: Brooch is 5/8” round, 2 1/2” long with drop, 1/2” deep. Earrings hang 2” long, 5/8” wide, 1/4” deep. SOLD!

VJ146

THE BRILLIANCE OF CUT STEEL ( Victorian Jewelry Cut Steel Earrings ): These drop earrings are a gorgeous example of Victorian cut steel jewelry. (c. 1850-60) English or French in origin, these light weight earrings shimmer and glint from every angle. Used as an alternative for the look and impact of early cut diamonds, cut steel in jewelry became a highly refined process. Each small steel bead or stud is hand cut, faceted, polished and painstakingly riveted onto a metal (typically brass) back piece. The steel studs are densely set to provide remarkable brilliance. (Photos can not capture their true sparkle.) As the light dances from one facet to another, you can imagine the sparkling effect when worn dancing at a ball. The Shepard’s hook earwires are jeweler tested Sterling Silver. These beauties are certainly “eye dazzlers”. We often think of steel being durable – in actuality cut steel did not often survive the centuries and earring of this material are extremely difficult to obtain. Naturally this has made them highly prized by collectors. Simply divine and flattering to every face, the pristine condition of these earrings is remarkable. Picture wearing these to dinner or the ballet. Condition: Excellent. No rust. Size: 1 5/8” long, 1 3/4” wide. SOLD!

VJ160

HEAVENLY ENAMEL ( Art Nouveau Jewelry Cloisonné Enamel Angel / Cherub Brooch / Pin ): I have to say it – this is a dream piece! I have never seen another brooch like this one. It is an exquisite example of French craftsmanship from the Art Nouveau period. (c. 1890-1917) This large slightly domed Antique Portrait Brooch is an enameled design on Sterling Silver. (Enamel is a glass-like mixture of silica, quartz, borax, feldspar and lead. Firing at a temperature of 1700 degrees Fahrenheit is required to melt the mixture to the setting.) The Feathered Cherub in the center oval is a multi-colored portrait in enamel with a buildup of enamel on the wings to add an actual raised dimensional effect. There are wonderful trumpet flowers and intricate curves of leaves and other blossoms covering the surface of the brooch. The floral design work around the Cherub is executed in an enamel technique called cloisonné. In cloisonné work a design is drawn on the article and traced with fine silver wire. The wire forms partitions into which the enamel mixture is poured. Since powdered enamel tends to shrink when fired, several firings are necessary for each color. After all the colors are fired, the enamel is polished off even with the top of the wire. The band around the edge of the frame, as well as the oval encircling the portrait, is white enamel. All of the swirling floral designs are ivory colored enamel with an iridescent metallic surface around it. The Cherub, floating on clouds in a blue and ivory sky, is accented with blush cheeks and golden brown hair. Marked “Sterling” the original C clasp closure is in place. An ethereal and unforgettable work of art. Of museum quality, this breathtaking enamel brooch will captivate you and steal your heart away! Condition: Excellent. No chips, cracks or scratches on the portrait. The apparent dark spots on the back are reflections. Size: 3” high, 2 ½” wide. SOLD!
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VJ094

TINY GLASS WONDER ( Victorian Jewelry Micro Mosaic Pendant ): Micro mosaics always make me gaze in amazement at the diminutive works of art. Made of tiny glass pieces called tesserae, the miniscule shards of glass blend together to form complex and subtle scenes of great artistry. This exquisite Victorian micro mosaic pendant (c. 1860) is a perfect example of classical revival styling. The center oval features two doves amidst a garden of rose blossoms. Hues of pink, green, gray and white form the charming birds and flowers, all set in a black background. The outer oval surround is equally lovely, a complex abstract pattern of red, white and black pieces. The 15KT mounting and bale are a lush soft gold, decorated with wire twists and tiny golden orbs. The pendant is free swinging from the wide decorated bale. This micro mosaic is Italian and has Roman marks on the center back and bale. The quality of this pendant is so remarkable! I doubt that I will ever be able to find another that is its equal. It is a truly stunning miniature work of art, highly prized by collectors of Victorian jewelry. Condition: Excellent. Tight mosaic work with no tesserae missing. The top of the bale has a tiny superficial crack that does not run through the metal. Size: Bale & pendant are 1 3/4” long, 1” wide. The pendant is 3/8” deep. SOLD!

VJ147

VOTES FOR WOMAN - SUFFRAGETTE COLORS ( Edwardian Jewelry Suffragette Pendant ): As the 19th Century began, women in England and the United States were battling it out on the political front for women’s suffrage. The Suffragettes had a color code which they translated into jewelry: green, white & violet supposedly stood for “Give Women the Vote”. A more complex and accurate explanation for the colors comes from Mrs. Pethick-Lawrence, treasurer and co-author of the newspaper “Votes for Women”. She introduced the colors at a mass rally in Hyde Park in June, 1908. She explained: “Purple stands for the royal blood that flows in the veins of every suffragette, the instinct of freedom and dignity…white stands for purity in private and public life… green is the color hope and the emblem of spring.” The correct phrase is: “Votes for Women”. This petite pendant is a lasting reminder of that important milestone that led to women gaining the right to vote. (In the U.S. women won this right in 1920.) Most of these jewelry pieces were small symbols worn to let other women know that the wearer was sympathetic to the cause. This is marked “9CT” for 9KT Gold and contains tiny Pearls, faceted Amethysts and green faceted Peridots. (c. 1910) It has a removable pearl studded bale. There is a pendant hook on the back. Delicate in appearance, this petite piece is also indicative of the Edwardian taste in jewelry. Delightful to the eye and steeped in history, Suffragette jewelry pieces are scarce and highly desirable. Condition: Excellent. Pearls appear to be all original. Size: 1 3/4” long, 1 1/8” wide. SOLD!

VJ143

PIQUÉ FROM THE SEA ( Victorian Jewelry Piqué Earrings ): Piqué is by definition, gold and silver decoration on tortoiseshell. Skilled artisans, using tortoiseshell as a base, carved out specific designs or shapes from metal and then inlayed them into the shell. I was fortunate to obtain these large, very beautiful silver lily-of-the-valley Victorian earrings for pierced ears. (c. 1860-80) The versatility of tortoiseshell, with its rich colors, has helped to make it one of the most popular, sought after materials to come from the sea. Its natural markings are patches of translucent sherry-gold mingled with cloudy chestnut – and they give a fascinating depth to a smooth surface. Slightly curved, these shell earrings have been inlayed with ribbons of silver along the edge and a central floral design of lily-of-the-valley. These flowers symbolize the return of happiness and, in combination with tortoiseshell, would have been suitable for half-mourning. Probably English in origin, these piqué pierced earrings are a delight to hold, touch and wear. Recently all organic materials have sky-rocketed in price due to the rising interest among collectors. Feel the pulse of the 19th Century by adding these beauties to your Victorian jewelry box. Condition: Excellent. A few light scratches – they are antique, too! The ear wires may be later replacements. The photos make one earring appear lighter than the other. This is the result of the marbleizing of the shell. They look the same color in reality. Size: Full drop is 2 1/8 long. Shell is 1 5/8” long, 1 1/2” wide with a curve of almost 1/4”. SOLD!

VJ141

RAJ RHINOS & TIGERS: ( Victorian Jewelry Tiger Claw Cufflinks ): One of the many seemingly odd Victorian traits was their unending appetite for exotic jewelry from exotic places. These wonderful Antique English Sterling Silver Tiger Claw and Rhinoceros Cufflinks illustrates the rage for items from India (c. 1880 – 90). In 1876 Victoria was proclaimed the Empress of India, so it is not surprising that Mogul jewelry and elaborately set tiger claws made their appearance. The “Great White Hunters” made their mark on fashion – jewelry and other small objects were frequently sent home as mementos of their hunting expertise. This versatile pair of tiger claws is set in Sterling mounts, the tips enclosed by tiny Sterling Silver balls. (They slip easily in & out of your cuffs.) At the other end of the chain links is a very detailed little 3 dimensional rhinoceros - the horn projecting above his head. The cat claws combined with the rhinos achieve a most unusual and elegant, yet whimsical, effect. Most of the tiger claw jewelry was made into pendants or brooches for wives and sweethearts, but this unusual set of cufflinks was certainly intended for the hunter himself or a male family member. The top edge of the silver claw mount is marked “Silver”.  Both striking and eye-catching – these reminders of the Raj will get attention in any crowd. What a story they tell! Condition: Excellent. No drying of claws. Slight wear on silver. Size: Claw – 1 1/8” long, 1/2”high, 1/8” deep. Rhino – 3/4” long, 3/8” high, 1/8” deep. Chain links – 5/8” long. SOLD!

VJ129

SCOTTISH SYMPHONY ( Victorian Jewelry Scottish Agate Brooch ): A refined Antique Scottish Brooch is a “must have” in any collection of Victorian Jewelry. Many of these 19th Century Scottish pieces were made in response to the romantic interest in Scotland that was stimulated by the frequent visits of Queen Victoria and the writings of Sir Walter Scott. Victoria and Albert spent many relaxed and happy days at Balmoral Castle. This superbly crafted brooch is a symphony in color. Regal and elegant, the agate stones range in color from gray to rust - cut from a variety of colored jasper and striated gray agate. The Sterling Silver setting provides a cool contrast to the agate stones. The entire back of the brooch is enclosed in silver and retains its original C clasp and safety chain. Quite grand in scale, this unforgettable Scottish brooch is as wearable – and fashionable – today as it was 150 years ago. Condition: Excellent. Size: 2 5/8" high, 2 5/8" wide, almost 1/4” deep. SOLD!
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IV039

DIVINE HARVEST ( Victorian Jewelry Ivory Locket ): Meticulously hand carved by a master carver, this exquisite Victorian Locket features a sheaf of wheat as its central motif. (c. 1870-90) An Ivory Locket such as this captivating French piece would be given as a token of marital bliss or sorrow. The wheat sheaf was representative of divine harvest and marital fertility. If this image appeared on a memorial piece it conveyed sorrow over the death of an aged loved one. This wheat motif has been carved directly into the locket front, a much more difficult process than the way most lockets were carved. The design was usually carved separately and then “pegged” into the locket cover. The large grooved bale is just lovely – the overall ivory grain and patina are rich and warm. This locket opens from the left and retains its original gold rimmed fabric liners and covers. It would look outstanding on a ribbon, chain or ivory beads. A Victorian treasure so modern in look and feel, but with a far more intimate personal aura. One of the most beautiful Antique Ivory Lockets I have found and sturdy enough to wear often. Condition: Excellent. Truly superb! Size: Locket with bale 2 1/2” long, 1 5/8” wide, 5/8” deep. SOLD!
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VJ111

ENCHANTING CORAL CHRYSANTHEMUM ( Victorian Jewelry Coral Brooch ): Victorians wore coral constantly as a talisman against enchantments, witchcraft and Satan. Antique Coral pieces were very often carved in clusters of leaves and branches. The red chrysanthemum, meaning “I Love”, was a popular subject for Victorian coral carvings. (c. 1860) The central dimensional mum is surrounded with delicate details of tiny petals, roses, pomegranates, leaves and twigs. A large piece of branch coral forms the support for numerous delicate gold wire work pieces that support all of the tiny floral and leaf embellishments. It gives the brooch a light and airy look. Unfortunately, the delicacy of the carved pieces makes good examples rare. They just haven’t survived intact. Much of this type of fine carving work was done in Italy and it could not be repeated today. This piece was part of a large estate purchased in England. The gold extended pin back has a C clasp closure. There is a small wire hook at the bottom of the back of the brooch indicating that there may have been an added dangle piece at one time. The soft radiance of coral is both feminine and flattering. The marvelous delicacy of this brooch is certain to be admired by all. Condition: Excellent. Size: 2 1/4” wide, 1 1/2” high, 1” deep. SOLD!
 

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