Time Dances By - Victorian & Ivory Jewelry

Item:	Description:	Price:
VJ168	SHIMMERING BUTTERFLY TAKES FLIGHT ( Victorian Cut Steel Jewelry Butterfly Brooch / Pin ): This glittering Victorian Cut Steel Butterfly Brooch will make your heart beat faster. (c.1860-80) Cut steel has a long history of its very own admirers – revered in the 17th Century and again quite popular in the Victorian period. Used as an alternative for the look of early cut diamonds, cut steel jewelry is a highly refined process. Each small steel bead or stud is hand cut, faceted, polished and painstakingly riveted onto a metal (typically brass) back piece. Think of the work involved! The Victorian era with its “cult of nature” birds and butterflies took flight as a popular motif in Victorian jewelry. The butterfly symbolizes the soul in resurrection – nothing was ever simple to the Victorians! This enchanting butterfly brooch glimmers and sparkles, creating an almost 3-dimensional effect with its wings in two layers. The back retains its original C clasp and pin stem. Notice all of the rivet work on the back. English or French in origin. Resist the temptation to shade your eyes as the light dances from one facet to the other. (Our photos cannot nearly capture the true effect.) In the last few years Antique Cut Steel Jewelry has gained increasing popularity. Amongst collectors the demand for these pieces is high. Condition: Very good to Excellent. Very small amount of expected patina, no beads missing. Size: 2” wide, 1 ½” high, ¼” deep with wing lift.	SOLD!
VJ119	PEACOCK EYES & STERLING SHELLS ( Arts and Crafts Jewelry Peacock Eye Earrings ): This pair of sleek and seductive “Peacock Eye” earrings is the embodiment of the Arts & Crafts Movement. (c. 1890-1920) The peacock eye motif was associated with the Aesthetic Movement that included the Pre-Raphaelites of the art world. You can see peacock feathers in many of their exquisite medieval style paintings. The practitioners of the Arts & Crafts Movement were revivalists of a sort, but they re-interpreted the past. They rebelled against the excesses of Victorian ornamentation. In jewelry the intrinsic values of the materials was of secondary importance to design and workmanship. Most Arts & Crafts artisans preferred silver to gold and cabochon cut gemstones to faceted ones. These dazzling blue and green “peacock eyes” are hand crafted foiled glass. A graceful Sterling Silver shell shape forms the top of the each earring with a double-sided bezel set peacock eye at its center and a tiny silver ball drop. The entire earring swings freely from its original long silver shepherd’s hook ear wires. These earrings are marked “Sterling” on the back. There is currently a growing interest in the Arts & Crafts style. These “peacock eye” pieces are scarce and in high demand. I love their unique iridescent shine and intense colors. Wear them with denim or silk - for work or play. Condition: Excellent. Size: Total length from top of ear wire 2”, shell is 3/4” wide.	SOLD!
VJ135	SUFFRAGETTE COLORS ( Edwardian Jewelry Suffragette Brooch ): As the nineteenth century began, women in England and the United States were battling it out on the political front for woman’s suffrage. The suffragists had a color code which they translated into jewelry: green, white and violet supposedly stood for “Give Women the Vote”. A more complex and accurate explanation for the colors comes from Mrs. Pethick-Lawrence, treasurer and co-author of the newspaper – “Votes for Women”. She introduced the colors at a mass rally in Hyde Park in June, 1908. She explained : “Purple stands for the royal blood that flows in the veins of every suffragette, the instinct of freedom and dignity…white stands for purity in private and public life…green is the color of hope and the emblem of spring.” The correct phrase is “Votes for Women”. This petite brooch is a lasting reminder of that important milestone that led to women gaining the right to vote. (In the U.S. women won this right in 1920.) Most of these jewelry pieces were small symbols worn to let other women know that the wearer was sympathetic to the cause. Marked “800” silver with a vermeil wash, this circular brooch has a faceted amethyst center stone, tiny white pearls and green paste stones. (c. 1910) Delicate in appearance, it is also indicative of the Edwardian taste in jewelry. The back retains its original C clasp. Delightful to the eye and steeped in history, suffragette pieces are scarce and highly collectable. Condition: Excellent. Size: 1” in diameter. Center stone is 3/8” in diameter.	SOLD!
VJ164	MEMENTO OF THE HUNT ( Victorian Jewelry Tiger Claw Brooch / Pin ): One of the many seemingly odd Victorian traits was their unending appetite for exotic jewelry from exotic places. This wonderful silver Antique Double Tiger’s Claw Brooch illustrates the rage for items from India. In 1876 Queen Victoria was proclaimed the Empress of India, so it is not surprising that Mogul jewelry and elaborately set tiger claws made their appearance. The “Great White Hunters” made their mark on fashion – jewelry was frequently sent home as a memento of their hunting expertise. At that time there was no concern that the seemingly endless supply of birds and animals would ever become endangered. This double tiger’s claw brooch was made in India using a thick silver ornate edged mounting that covers the inside curve of the claws and ends in silver ball tips. (c. 1880) Beautifully designed, the back is engraved “J.A.F.M.” and retains its original C clasp closure. This sleek and dramatic brooch is an unforgettable example of the Victorian quest for the exotic. Condition: Excellent. A natural drying of the 125 year old claws. Size: 2 ½” wide, 2” high, ¼” deep.	SOLD!
IV052	IVORY BIRD NESTED IN FLORAL SPLENDOR ( Victorian Ivory Jewelry Bird & Floral Brooch / Pin ): I am pleased to offer one of the most intricate and captivating examples of Victorian Romanticism captured in carved ivory. (c. 1860-80) Botanical and nature themes combine in this, delicate carving of a bird perched on the edge of her nest guarding two precious ivory eggs. The nest is carefully hidden in a spray of cabbage roses, buds & leaves. The thorny boughs will add additional protection from predators. These miniature floral masterpieces reached great heights in the mid to late 19th century when the colorless jewels became the vogue. Look at the fine, yet lush, carving of the roses. They are marvels of skill and artistry. The rose buds and leaves are lacy and airy. The tiny feathers are carved in realistic, precise detail – even her eyes and beak are daintily rendered. This antique brooch was certainly a treasure brought back as a tourist souvenir from Dieppe, France, where the most skillful workers practiced their craft. The carving has a creamy light patina and glossy highlights. The back retains its original C clasp & pin stem closure. The vibrancy of nature has found its most perfect expression in the timeless beauty of this superb Victorian Ivory brooch. Condition: Excellent. The Ivory is flawless. Size: 2” wide, 1 5/8” high, 3/8” deep.	SOLD!
VJ149	I GIVE YOU MY HEART ( Victorian Jewelry Sterling Snake Brooch / Pin ): This is simply one of the best Victorian snake brooches that I have ever seen. Large and finely detailed, this serpent carries a cobalt blue enamel heart in his mouth. (c. 1860-80) A powerful symbol of love, the snake was celebrated by Victorians who followed the example set by Queen Victoria. Her passionate husband, Prince Albert, gave her many pieces of jewelry featuring the snake motif – including her engagement ring. This captivating Antique Sterling Silver Snake twists and turns in undulating loops. Every scale is deeply engraved. His beautifully formed head has bezel set garnet eyes. Unlike many of these talismans of love, this brooch still retains its original blue enamel heart, set with a tiny half pearl. In profile you can see that the snake has an open mouth. The back has a replacement C clasp closure. (There are scratch marks on the back from previous owners testing the silver.) I have not polished it since I’ve had it because I love the rich look of the scales. Grand in size, this snake brooch is a seductive and alluring work of the jeweler’s art. The essence of the 19th Century is yours to touch, hold and treasure for another lifetime. Condition: Excellent. There is a tiny pinhole at the top of the silver on the back of the heart. It does not show when wearing the brooch. Size: 3” wide, loops are 1 1/4” high & 3/8” deep. Heart is 1/2” high & wide, 1/4” deep.	SOLD!
VJ156	TAJ MAHAL – THE JEWEL OF INDIA ( Victorian Jewelry Taj Mahal Ivory Portrait Miniature Brooch ): I am offering a gorgeous Antique Brooch from my personal collection. It is a large sumptuous painted ivory view of the Taj Mahal, India’s most famous architectural wonder. (c. 1880) The Taj was commissioned by Emperor Shah Jahan in memory of his beloved wife. As a tribute to a beautiful woman and as a monument for enduring love, construction began in 1631 and was completed in 22 years. Within the onion shaped dome lies the jewel inlaid cenotaph of the queen. The beauty of this brooch is enhanced by the addition of the large reflection pool, luscious greenery and puffy clouds floating in a blue sky. The Taj is so delicately painted that it has an almost lace-like quality. The ivory miniature is bezel set high above the ornate engraved, jeweler tested 10KT gold setting. Once India became part of the British Empire Victorians flocked to India to see this highlight of their “grand tour”. The painted miniatures were brought home and mounted extravagantly in London. Both the front and back are covered with beveled glass and the back of the painting contains a compartment where a photo or hair memento could be placed. The elongated pin stem may be an early replacement. The closure is a C clasp with an extra curl that acts like a safety clasp. The tiny ring at the top is where a safety chain was attached. All of the romance you could possibly want, this brooch would be a treasured part of any collection. What a perfect gift of Love! Condition: Excellent. A touch of dust under the glass and a tiny nibble to the glass cover at 3 o’clock – not visible to the naked eye. The colors are fresh and vivid. Size: Entire brooch 2 5/8” wide, 2 1/8” high, 5/8” deep. Painting is 1 7/8” wide 1 1/2“ high.	SOLD!
VJ167	GOLDEN BIRD AND CLAW ( Victorian Tiger Claw Jewelry Brooch/Pin ) This is one of the most stunning and elaborate example of “Raj” tiger claw brooches that I have seen. (c.1870-80). Set in 18KT gold, with gold chasing and engraving, the focal point is a song bird, containing great detail in its feathers, set atop a bow & arrow. The bird has its wings extended, and its chest feathers are "puffed"out over the tail feathers. The head extends out to the side. The golden surround at the bottom of the claw and the golden cap on top of the claw have a very fine basket weave background with a lovely looped pattern of gold strands. The top itself has whorls of gold wires that are really breath taking. The bow, bow string & arrow also contain fine detailing and all are 3 dimensional. This amazing large tiger claw brooch was undoubtedly mounted in India. The original C clasp has been replaced with a safety clasp. This brooch is in perfect condition and the almost "frosted" look of the gold is soooo beautiful. The equal of any Museum quality brooch, meant for a true collector of the mysterious and exotic. Condition: Excellent. Size: 1 1/2" high, 1 5/8" wide, 1/2" deep.	SOLD!
VJ146	THE BRILLIANCE OF CUT STEEL ( Victorian Jewelry Cut Steel Earrings ): These drop earrings are a gorgeous example of Victorian cut steel jewelry. (c. 1850-60) English or French in origin, these light weight earrings shimmer and glint from every angle. Used as an alternative for the look and impact of early cut diamonds, cut steel in jewelry became a highly refined process. Each small steel bead or stud is hand cut, faceted, polished and painstakingly riveted onto a metal (typically brass) back piece. The steel studs are densely set to provide remarkable brilliance. (Photos can not capture their true sparkle.) As the light dances from one facet to another, you can imagine the sparkling effect when worn dancing at a ball. The Shepard’s hook earwires are jeweler tested Sterling Silver. These beauties are certainly “eye dazzlers”. We often think of steel being durable – in actuality cut steel did not often survive the centuries and earring of this material are extremely difficult to obtain. Naturally this has made them highly prized by collectors. Simply divine and flattering to every face, the pristine condition of these earrings is remarkable. Picture wearing these to dinner or the ballet. Condition: Excellent. No rust. Size: 1 5/8” long, 1 3/4” wide.	SOLD!
VJ160	HEAVENLY ENAMEL ( Art Nouveau Jewelry Cloisonné Enamel Angel / Cherub Brooch / Pin ): I have to say it – this is a dream piece! I have never seen another brooch like this one. It is an exquisite example of French craftsmanship from the Art Nouveau period. (c. 1890-1917) This large slightly domed Antique Portrait Brooch is an enameled design on Sterling Silver. (Enamel is a glass-like mixture of silica, quartz, borax, feldspar and lead. Firing at a temperature of 1700 degrees Fahrenheit is required to melt the mixture to the setting.) The Feathered Cherub in the center oval is a multi-colored portrait in enamel with a buildup of enamel on the wings to add an actual raised dimensional effect. There are wonderful trumpet flowers and intricate curves of leaves and other blossoms covering the surface of the brooch. The floral design work around the Cherub is executed in an enamel technique called cloisonné. In cloisonné work a design is drawn on the article and traced with fine silver wire. The wire forms partitions into which the enamel mixture is poured. Since powdered enamel tends to shrink when fired, several firings are necessary for each color. After all the colors are fired, the enamel is polished off even with the top of the wire. The band around the edge of the frame, as well as the oval encircling the portrait, is white enamel. All of the swirling floral designs are ivory colored enamel with an iridescent metallic surface around it. The Cherub, floating on clouds in a blue and ivory sky, is accented with blush cheeks and golden brown hair. Marked “Sterling” the original C clasp closure is in place. An ethereal and unforgettable work of art. Of museum quality, this breathtaking enamel brooch will captivate you and steal your heart away! Condition: Excellent. No chips, cracks or scratches on the portrait. The apparent dark spots on the back are reflections. Size: 3” high, 2 ½” wide.	SOLD!
VJ143	PIQUÉ FROM THE SEA ( Victorian Jewelry Piqué Earrings ): Piqué is by definition, gold and silver decoration on tortoiseshell. Skilled artisans, using tortoiseshell as a base, carved out specific designs or shapes from metal and then inlayed them into the shell. I was fortunate to obtain these large, very beautiful silver lily-of-the-valley Victorian earrings for pierced ears. (c. 1860-80) The versatility of tortoiseshell, with its rich colors, has helped to make it one of the most popular, sought after materials to come from the sea. Its natural markings are patches of translucent sherry-gold mingled with cloudy chestnut – and they give a fascinating depth to a smooth surface. Slightly curved, these shell earrings have been inlayed with ribbons of silver along the edge and a central floral design of lily-of-the-valley. These flowers symbolize the return of happiness and, in combination with tortoiseshell, would have been suitable for half-mourning. Probably English in origin, these piqué pierced earrings are a delight to hold, touch and wear. Recently all organic materials have sky-rocketed in price due to the rising interest among collectors. Feel the pulse of the 19^th Century by adding these beauties to your Victorian jewelry box. Condition: Excellent. A few light scratches – they are antique, too! The ear wires may be later replacements. The photos make one earring appear lighter than the other. This is the result of the marbleizing of the shell. They look the same color in reality. Size: Full drop is 2 1/8 long. Shell is 1 5/8” long, 1 1/2” wide with a curve of almost 1/4”.	SOLD!
VJ141	RAJ RHINOS & TIGERS: ( Victorian Jewelry Tiger Claw Cufflinks ): One of the many seemingly odd Victorian traits was their unending appetite for exotic jewelry from exotic places. These wonderful Antique English Sterling Silver Tiger Claw and Rhinoceros Cufflinks illustrates the rage for items from India (c. 1880 – 90). In 1876 Victoria was proclaimed the Empress of India, so it is not surprising that Mogul jewelry and elaborately set tiger claws made their appearance. The “Great White Hunters” made their mark on fashion – jewelry and other small objects were frequently sent home as mementos of their hunting expertise. This versatile pair of tiger claws is set in Sterling mounts, the tips enclosed by tiny Sterling Silver balls. (They slip easily in & out of your cuffs.) At the other end of the chain links is a very detailed little 3 dimensional rhinoceros - the horn projecting above his head. The cat claws combined with the rhinos achieve a most unusual and elegant, yet whimsical, effect. Most of the tiger claw jewelry was made into pendants or brooches for wives and sweethearts, but this unusual set of cufflinks was certainly intended for the hunter himself or a male family member. The top edge of the silver claw mount is marked “Silver”. Both striking and eye-catching – these reminders of the Raj will get attention in any crowd. What a story they tell! Condition: Excellent. No drying of claws. Slight wear on silver. Size: Claw – 1 1/8” long, 1/2”high, 1/8” deep. Rhino – 3/4” long, 3/8” high, 1/8” deep. Chain links – 5/8” long.	SOLD!
VJ129	SCOTTISH SYMPHONY ( Victorian Jewelry Scottish Agate Brooch ): A refined Antique Scottish Brooch is a “must have” in any collection of Victorian Jewelry. Many of these 19^th Century Scottish pieces were made in response to the romantic interest in Scotland that was stimulated by the frequent visits of Queen Victoria and the writings of Sir Walter Scott. Victoria and Albert spent many relaxed and happy days at Balmoral Castle. This superbly crafted brooch is a symphony in color. Regal and elegant, the agate stones range in color from gray to rust - cut from a variety of colored jasper and striated gray agate. The Sterling Silver setting provides a cool contrast to the agate stones. The entire back of the brooch is enclosed in silver and retains its original C clasp and safety chain. Quite grand in scale, this unforgettable Scottish brooch is as wearable – and fashionable – today as it was 150 years ago. Condition: Excellent. Size: 2 5/8" high, 2 5/8" wide, almost 1/4” deep.	SOLD!
IV039	DIVINE HARVEST ( Victorian Jewelry Ivory Locket ): Meticulously hand carved by a master carver, this exquisite Victorian Locket features a sheaf of wheat as its central motif. (c. 1870-90) An Ivory Locket such as this captivating French piece would be given as a token of marital bliss or sorrow. The wheat sheaf was representative of divine harvest and marital fertility. If this image appeared on a memorial piece it conveyed sorrow over the death of an aged loved one. This wheat motif has been carved directly into the locket front, a much more difficult process than the way most lockets were carved. The design was usually carved separately and then “pegged” into the locket cover. The large grooved bale is just lovely – the overall ivory grain and patina are rich and warm. This locket opens from the left and retains its original gold rimmed fabric liners and covers. It would look outstanding on a ribbon, chain or ivory beads. A Victorian treasure so modern in look and feel, but with a far more intimate personal aura. One of the most beautiful Antique Ivory Lockets I have found and sturdy enough to wear often. Condition: Excellent. Truly superb! Size: Locket with bale 2 1/2” long, 1 5/8” wide, 5/8” deep.	SOLD!
VJ111	ENCHANTING CORAL CHRYSANTHEMUM ( Victorian Jewelry Coral Brooch ): Victorians wore coral constantly as a talisman against enchantments, witchcraft and Satan. Antique Coral pieces were very often carved in clusters of leaves and branches. The red chrysanthemum, meaning “I Love”, was a popular subject for Victorian coral carvings. (c. 1860) The central dimensional mum is surrounded with delicate details of tiny petals, roses, pomegranates, leaves and twigs. A large piece of branch coral forms the support for numerous delicate gold wire work pieces that support all of the tiny floral and leaf embellishments. It gives the brooch a light and airy look. Unfortunately, the delicacy of the carved pieces makes good examples rare. They just haven’t survived intact. Much of this type of fine carving work was done in Italy and it could not be repeated today. This piece was part of a large estate purchased in England. The gold extended pin back has a C clasp closure. There is a small wire hook at the bottom of the back of the brooch indicating that there may have been an added dangle piece at one time. The soft radiance of coral is both feminine and flattering. The marvelous delicacy of this brooch is certain to be admired by all. Condition: Excellent. Size: 2 1/4” wide, 1 1/2” high, 1” deep.	SOLD!
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